ORIGINAL: roknHS

Does anyone have experience with the single bolt prop adapter? Is there any difference in the vibration characteristics of the engine when using the adapter? If the adapter is not machined perfectly, I could see a potential problem with vibration.

I've tried VV twice on this and have not received any answer........guess they're busy.

ORIGINAL: DaleD

I recently bought a DLE30 and its completed installation in the intended home. I notice a spring installed inside the spark plug cap which, after trial fitting a couple times, has fallen out and I am having a difficulty putting it back in. I also notice what appears to be a replacement spring supplied so, I am now wondering if this spring necessary for effective operation of the ignition and engine? Can I forget about it and carry on with breaking in the engine?

Thanks

DaleD

ORIGINAL: CK1

The spring is required , operating without it is not advised

ORIGINAL: Capt Cash

Engine troubles. Had about 4 dead sticks today and one a few days ago. If anybody has any ideas that would be great as this is my first gasser.

What I can tell you now:

- New DLE-30 running NGK CM-6 plug, 4.8v 2500 mAh NiMH ign battery.
- 1.2 gallons of fuel run through so far at 32:1, first 20 oz was on the ground.
- 42% Opto kill switch.
- Properly vented 16oz tank with separate fueling, venting, and engine fuel line with walbro 527 felt clunk.
- Lots of black exhaust crud the first gallon but it's starting to subside now. I'm told this is normal.

Since the intial start this engine has ran smooth as a kitten. Broke in with 18x8 prop, now running Xoar 19x8 getting about 7200 rpm. Running factory needle settings intiatially at sea level. Leaned the low and high 1/8 turn today after the dead sticks, still no difference. The transition has always been perfect without even a hint of a hiccup since day one. The engine performs perfect in verticle, inverted, etc. Idle is great and has only gotten smoother with just a little burble between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle. The trouble usually comes after the first 5 min. While just cruising wings level at half throttle or so it'll just start coughing for no reason with a severe reduction in power and usually die. Sometimes it'll start coughing at any power setting though. On one landing it was still running, but at a pathetic very rough low idle with almost no response to full throttle followed by a backfire and flameout. With the engine cowl off results are the same. I can also usually get it to repeat on the ground if I run it long enough. Subsequently, without doing anything to the engine it starts right back up 10 min later, running fine like nothing happened.

The plug looks fine at a nice brown color and dry. The ignition battery has never gotten below about 5.2v. What's odd is most times it's also making a loud backfire right before it quits but it just runs perfect the other 99% of the time. Today my first 3 flights were 20min each and all went great, then after 5 min into the 4th flight the dead sticks started. I also charged my ign battery at the field thinking that was it but I doubt it. One thing of note also is that when the engine is running very rough on the ground I can see that the red ignition light from the opto kill switch flickers.

I'm thinking this could be an ignition or timing issue?, or do I just not have the needles tuned correctly? Thanks all.

ORIGINAL: YAT-28E

What size tank is recommended for the DL30? I am thinking of using in a 20 lb scale project.
Also, has anyone used the shaft extension to push it out 3/4''?


Thanks
Mike

ORIGINAL: cmptrguy

Richard:

Also the Sbach 342 and DLE-30 combo weighs in at 12-1/2 lbs ready to fly.

ORIGINAL: Capt Cash

I'm using a 16oz tank and it seems plenty for me on a sport plane where my flying style is around 1/2 throttle. So far with total engine run times of 22 min, I land with at least 1/4 to 1/3 of a tank of gas remaining. I think a more hardstyle or 3D flying would still safely give about 15 min of endurance on 16oz.

ORIGINAL: Capt Cash

Engine problems solved.

Without doing anything else, I removed the opto kill switch last night and then flew a full hour of flight time today. The engine never skipped a beat and ran great just as it always has had, when the ignition was continously on that is. Should've known it was the kill switch when I saw the red light flickering in combination with the engine coughing. It's possible it's faulty or it was my setup. I found some other threads where people were talking about the exact same problem as me however and said never again, and then on the same thread people have used these for hundreds of hours without fail. Don't know what to say other than I can't recommend that brand of kill switch. I know I could probably get a replacement for free but I think I like the KISS method now. The servo choke works great anyway for killing the engine. I realize my plane could possibly fly away now if I lose the transmitter or receiver, but as long as I can recover it, damage likely may be about the same anyway.

ORIGINAL: kerwin50

I'm saving my pennies every day for a DLE 30 don't have a plane picked out yet but I'm looking