oldtimer4759

hi all,
lovely engine, I have the rear carby version, 30cc, I put about 3/4 litre through it on the ground, I started off with a Master Airscrew 18x8 for the first couple of runs, then changed to a JXF 19 x 8, much better prop, IMO, about 7k top rpm, idle about 1700, so far I have had 3 flights with the engine, it is in an ESM P-47, the engine is running smooth, heaps of power, I am very happy with it.

I mounted my ignition unit on the stand offs, with velcro, a thin 3 ply bracket cable tied to the stand offs, then some thick velcro, with another cable tie as a safety around the unit. I use a 4 cell 2000 mah battery pack,

cheers, Oldtimer.

airborne2.4

pm Bob Pastorello and ask him to post the answer to your question. If you ask a question on the thread, it will be removed.

Richard39

My Feedback: (14)

Thanks to all for the info and help... no futher questions will I have for Bob on his help for newbies...moving on to other post...

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

Hi If I have a engine box as a rule this is the way I do my Ign box, I use zip ties and not velcro for better holding IMO. I also don't use any thing under the box but make sure that it tight again the side of the engine box for no movment due to any vibrations.
The fig shown is a 55 but the same allpies to my 30 set up, with one exception the 55 has bolts going into the standoffs from both ends, where as the 30 standoffs are short and has pass thru bolts with blind nuts. (Caution) make sure you have good harden blind nuts if you choose to go that way. This is but just one set up there are many others that will work good also, just depend's on the particular plane your mounting the engine on as to what setup is needed.
As far as a 10x24 versis a 5 MM I would rather go with a 10x32 for the finner thread and ease of getting blind nuts and so forth , never try to mix the two up although they may go together they won't hold and a stripped thread is the end result and could be a very major safety factor.

Richard39

My Feedback: (14)

Cyberwolf.... thanks for the great reply and picture... very helpful... I will be connecting to the firewall as there is no box.. only the standoffs...

I do have the 10 x 32 bolts from the firewall to the standoff... using lock washers on a 3/4 inch fender washer... also using the fender washer on the front of the firewall where the standoff connects... I can not find a manual or any info on the proper size bolts for the provided standoffs... seems odd they send 4 bolts with the standoffs when 8 bolts are required....

thanks again... Richard

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

10-32 bolts are .190 diameter, will screw into 5mm hole but will be loose and not recommended'
5mm bolts are about .196 and should be used with the supplied standoffs unless the holes in the standoffs are drilled all the way through, then it makes no difference if you use matching nuts...
GOOD 5mm bolts will not screw into GOOD 10-32 nuts without some force.....

Richard39

My Feedback: (14)

Thanks Antique... I guess I should remove the 10x32... but I wish that I would have info with the new dle 30 that states 5mm... Is this printed somewhere or should we just assume that made in China translates into 5MM... a manual would be nice... something in writing....

I tried the bolts they furnished and the 10x32 and could not tell any difference in hand screwing them in and out.... just concerns me that either one could be the wrong or right one for safety....

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

10-32 bolts should be loose.

Richard39

My Feedback: (14)

I will get some new stainless 5 MM and install them... thanks..

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Black steel bolts are stronger than stainless....Grade 8...

captinjohn

On theTV news it has been covering China. They are treaching english there now big time. Hey maybe we will get some good directions with the AFR airplanes that did not have boo with them. At best they hada 1/2 baked printout of a doodlegram. Capt,n

P.S I won,t buy anything without good directions from now on!!!

rc34074

My Feedback: (5)

The 5mm mounting bolts that come with this engine screw very nicely into both ends of the standoffs that came with my dle30. Also the standoffs have holes all the way through them, and you can slide an 8-32 all the way through them (without engaging the threads at all). So that gives you another option for mounting.

Ed

summerwind

why doesn't the plug cap on these engines have a silicone boot to cover all the exposed metal?

since i was a kid i remember everything i touched that was gas/ignition related had rubber spark plug caps.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Because the steel braid is grounded.

summerwind

i understrand that, but still read reports of radio interference, so i thought that the exposed steel cap might be contributing to this.

i'm using Futaba 2.4 system so i doubt i will have any issues.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The rubber keeps your fingers from getting shocked but does not prevent electrical interference to your radio

The rubber is on the inside of the metal cap. The cap is a shield to hold in the electrical interference so it does not get in to your radio system.

summerwind

live and learn then
god i feel like such a noob[sm=drowning.gif]

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Just think what you already know about model airplanes.

Soon you will be an expert on gas engines

summerwind

LMAO................that's the day i stop breathing

meanrc

My Feedback: (2)

Summerbreeze

What a wonderful answer.

Jk

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

..

captinjohn

The exposed steel cap is the shield to prevent interference. You must have it over thr hex on the spark plug. The contact of this steel shield has to be very good. I myself will listen to others. Grind away the ridge where the 2 halves of the cap join right about here the hex is underneath. Then install a worm gear hose clamp & tighten that sucker tight. It it was not for the rubber inside cap...the spark would jump to the metal shield and never get to your spark plug. Capt,n

DaleD

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

That is normal, the balck is just paint and it turns to the bronze color from the heat. From my experience the down tubes remain black, just the part of the muffler where its connected to the cylinder and a portion of the can behind the cylinder turn the bronze color.

martseger63

What's the difference between the side-carb and rear-carb (v2?) engines? Is the rear-carb one more powerful?
If the carb sticks into the fuse, wont it make a big and smelly mess in there? (Storing the plane indoors where people dont like gas smell)