airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

Not sure on the bore. the one tool I havent invested in yet is a dial bore gauge. i did look at the DLE ring and does have more tension than the Bowman and the DLE ring would take a long time to seal really well. you just from an hours time on it parts of the ring about 3-4% of it were shiney (sp) across the whole width where other parts didnt look like it was even touching the cylinder. near the Piston pin there was a lot of blow by. The bowman ring had a tighter ring gap over the DLE ring.

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

ok tested the Modded ring.

Stock bowman ring was 7,600 and the releaved ring wasnt much more it bounced from 7,650-7,700. My guess is though that at higher Rpm like around 9,000 or so the modded ring would have a better gain. I plan to fly it tomorrow and see if i can run a gallon through flying. The modded ring did seem rev just a bit faster than the stock Bowman ring.

GSK

Following your posts ,but what are you actually trying to achieve ??


Graeme

donnspadbauer

My Feedback: (26)

The DLE 30 likes to be loaded down and run in the 7500 range, by rapping it out you will cause failures with out gain. think of a diesel vs a gas engine.

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

I have 2 gallons through the engine now on the Bowman ring. running very good and sounding great on the Bisson muffler with the exhaust tubes cut to 1" on one and 1.25 on the other one.

The 16x12 apc was to little of a load it was spinning it at 8,800. the 16x14 was the good prop it turns 8,300 on the ground with it and pulls the Mustang around 110mph.

I should get another gallong or two in this sunday.

Also may have already been said but I can run from start up to in flight full throttle for 7:45 on a 14 ounce tank.

Low for a techinical question for the ones in the know. My buddy brought his DLE out today and i looked it over checked the reeds and all. I changed his ring out to a Bowman. I noticed his serial number was in the 10,050 area and mine is 15,931 or so. I noticed his piston was way different than mine. I have two 3mm holes drilled into mu piston just aboove the wrist pin on both sides and has a greyish color to the piston. His piston doesnt have the holes and his doesnt have that greyish anodized look to it. His just has the fresh machine aluminum look.

are the holes for extra oil to the wrist pin and getting more air fuel to the transfers?

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

I have another question for you guys. I have the DLE mounted in a H9 miss america. The engine runs well great idle of 1,700 and good midtop end. The engine has a burble or sounds rich when going into tight turns or a pull to verticle. I will be installing the telemetry stuff this weekend.

do you get that burble sound sound when going lean or is it still a bit rich? Also in a dive it will get that burble every now and then.

GSK

do you get that burble sound sound when going lean or is it still a bit rich?
-
It tends to be a little on the rich side ,
Do not be too keen to get rid of it unless it is really annoying .
I usually keep an eye on the plug when leaning it out at that stage , the motor tuning will change as it gets more running .
Graeme

DaleD

I think the burble is an indication of a slightly right low end. Some modellers will tune their engines this way to facilitate easier starting.

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

yes it doesnt bother me at all. it does it at full throttle but only in tight turns or hard pull to verticle.

Runs great. compression is geeting so good now the Dynatron cant turn it over. Hand start with the wood props but the APC's I use the starter.
Once i get some other cylinders and pistons we will start working on them to see what we can get out of them. Both high rpm power and some high torque ones.

Night Scream

Hi everyone:

I'm looking for anyone that might still have the original dle30 side carb backplate and everything that came with It.
The small mounts that came with it and the black carb divider.

If anyone has this please e-mail me at: [email protected]. or pm me here.

Thank you.

Night Scream

Hi everyone:

I'm looking for anyone that might still have the original dle30 side carb backplate and everything that came with It.
The small mounts that came with it and the black carb divider.

If anyone has this please e-mail me at: [email protected]. or pm me here.

Thank you.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

A while back somebody mentioned they had a midrange burble they couldn't tune out. My first thought was welcome to the club! Well then he mentioned he cleaned his up by opening the spark plug gap - to .024 - and fixed it!!!! I thought, yea, right... but I've seen weirder, so I tried it. It worked. My midrange burble is gone.

It's worked on a few others since. The DLE 20 sometimes does that the same thing, and also responds well to the opened up gap...

Might be worth a try if you haven't already.

Beej

Hi Everybody,

I have searched this and other forum extensively but can't find an answer to the following question.....

I have a new EF Extra 78, DLE 30 and ES 30g pipe - is there an "off the shelf" header/plumbing solution - the pipe runs immediately aft of the engine, down he centre line. Suggestions appreciated. Guess at the very least if I had some indication of a short header followed by some KS (or similar) plumbing I could get it together.....

Thanks!

Beej

FLYING-HIGH2

did you ever get a header for your engine?

DaleD

A couple posts back in this thread, maybe more than just a couple, the WT-813 was recommended as a suitable replacement for the DLE 30 carb.  Would the WT-805 supplied with the MLD 35 work?  I notice the venturi is about 0.8mm bigger on the WT-805.

Thanks

DaleD

greg palmer

I have a problem with my dle 30 it has a pop to it from 1/4 to full throttle I have tried tuning it out with no luck changed the spark plug and gapped it a .018-.019 and just switched to Stil hp ultra 50:1 oil with no luck yet. I think I could have a timing issue does anybody have any thoughts on this.

MetallicaJunkie

increase gap to 24 , see if that helps


i remember i did everything i could think of on my 30cc, just about when i gave up the popping started subsiding.... i guess it needed more run time.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

One of my 30s acted like this too. Increased the plug gap to .024 or so and the problem went away. I really don't know what the exact plug gap is as I just opened it up some from the .020 it was set at and all was well so I left it alone from there.

Some people reported a similar problem when running the engine on a freshly charged battery. The problem going away after a bit of run time. I don't know much about this problem other than what I have read though. You might do some searches for additional info.

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

greg ,
This seems to be a fairly common issue on some of the 30's and the 55's that I have delt with . Some or most of the engines with your concern are taking a long time to break in as well . The Bowman ring has been successful in curing some by allowing a quicker break in and a better cylinder seal. Some require a little more running time and resolve themselves .
I would do the following things in this order .Some of which you have already done.
1) Use a freshly charge 4.8v ignition pack
2 ) Use a real CM6 plug gapped at .024 "
3) Verify the Ignition timing is set to no more than 30 deg BTDC (28 BTDC is recommended ) I have checked several DLE engine than were at over 40deg BTDC ,way too advanced.(see related threads on how to properly set the ignition timing)
4)After the above steps are completed retune the carb (see related threads on proper carb adjusting) If problem persists go to set 5
5) add a tube and a vent line to the carb diaghram vent and place the open end in the fuse away from irratic pressure changes that may effect carb tuning and performance
and recheck carb tuning after adding vent tube ( steps 4 and 5 can be performed in reverse order to reduce repeditive tuning if desired) (see related threads on carb vent lines)
6) After proper tuning is achieved fly , fly, fly .... If the engine is not improving after a few more gallons of flying time , replace the piston ring with a Frank Bowman ring and retune.
7) A key factor here is tuning after any other changes are made ,(timing , plug gap , prop size or brand , mechanical changes .. all have an effect on engine tuning needs.
Its a procees of elimination begining with the most basic , simple and least expensive .
The above list does not deal with possible internal carb faults (hard diaghrams , incorrect needle arm hieght), but those are the least common on a low time engine with the exception of a dirty internal screen which is easily checked

greg palmer

I'm going to start with gapping the plug at .024" and see if that helps.

Mikecam

My 30 had 35* and a high speed mis/pop. 32* gives easy starting, normal temps and 7450 RPM. 28* gave 7100 RPM's. The Canadian Warranty shop sets his DLE 30 engines at 32*. 1/4 throttle sounds low for the timing pop but worth checking.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBXFpxWg7vY

ricochet59

My Feedback: (65)

Hi all, I could use some help. This is my first gas engine, read through this thread and others. I'm putting the DLE30 in a Seagull Spacewalker 120. The choke seems a little stiff, so I'm using a Hitec 645 servo (metal gear, high torque, analog). There is about a 2" drop from the engine to the servo tray. I was thinking of using Sullivan 4-40 Nyrods (or similar), but the 4-40 I don't think would bend enough. My other thought was to use metal pushrods on the throttle and choke, and use Dubro ball links on the engine end. Is this enough to separate the metal to prevent RF interference. Any help and ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Rod

cmptrguy

My Feedback: (19)

Yep, That will work just fine- I use exactly the same setup on one of my DLE-30's. No problems at all. Welcome to the world of Gassers, Cheap fuel, dependable and just Flip and Fly - no starter box required.

Computer guy

Sbach342Guy

Has anyone had issues with their engine fading like it's gonna stall when coming out of a banked turn? It hasn't actually stalled yet so maybe my ears are just playing tricks on me.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Yep..sure have. You may want to do what I did and clean the wire screen filter in the carb. It was loaded with factory crap. After I did the cleaning and re-adjusted the needles, I have had no problems. Hope this helps.