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Old 09-04-2009, 10:09 PM
  #176  
sneakywrist
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Just got my DLE 30cc today...looks well built. Ok I failed math, here's my problem; I need to order spacers for the engine. The measurement from the firewall to the cowl opening is between 6 1/8-6 1/4 inches. The DLE 30 measurment from the back of the engine to the front rear hub is 100mm. What length spacer should I order?
Old 09-04-2009, 10:20 PM
  #177  
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

After studying this photo this is my thought. The part seen that screws on end of crank is only meant to center the prop (not hold it in any way) and to provide a way to attach a spinner. The real strength holding the prop is the hub that fits direct on end of crank combined with the 4 smaller bolts holding prop against prop hub. I think any not well planed use of a threaded stud to hold prop on may be dangerous. But I do not know that for sure![X(][] Capt,n
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:51 PM
  #178  
JoeAirPort
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!


ORIGINAL: sneakywrist

Just got my DLE 30cc today...looks well built. Ok I failed math, here's my problem; I need to order spacers for the engine. The measurement from the firewall to the cowl opening is between 6 1/8-6 1/4 inches. The DLE 30 measurment from the back of the engine to the front rear hub is 100mm. What length spacer should I order?
100mm/25.4 = 3.93" (Let's just call it 4").

6 1/4" - 4" = 2 1/4" spacers.

You need about 1/8-1/4" gap from your hub face back to the cowling. That's basically your gap from the cowling to the spinner back plate.
Old 09-04-2009, 10:51 PM
  #179  
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Your getting the idea, except that the pilot shaft also holds the hub onto the crankshaft. Yes an ill planned center stud to retain the prop would be dangerous, as would be your idea to turn down the large end of the CRRC propshaft to 10mm to center the prop. There is already an 8mm hole inside that section of the propshaft, turning it down to 10mm OD would only leave a thickness of 1mm left, not enough for me. It would be much better to shorten the large end of the CRRC prop shaft and face it off 90 degrees to its length then use a bushing on each side of the prop to center it.

Frankly, the 4 bolts are better for centering the prop than a center stud woud be and are not that big of a deal. I made my own drill guide on my drill press by drilling the DLE30 prop bolt patern in between the holes of the DLE55 pattern on my PSP Mfg. drill guide.
Old 09-04-2009, 11:15 PM
  #180  
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!


ORIGINAL: RichieN

What is the bolt spacing for the prop?

Thanks,
Not sure how this could help anyone but.......center to center across the pattern is 26mm, center to center around the pattern is 18mm.
Old 09-04-2009, 11:22 PM
  #181  
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

ORIGINAL: captinjohn


ORIGINAL: jedijody

Most any diameter will work. On the DLE30 though, the mounting lug at the bottom of the crankcase, next to the carb will only take a smaller diameter one like the ones that are included with the engine, slight clearance issue with the rear crankcase cover. If you get stand offs meant to use a 5mm or a #10 bolt and it interferes with the rear cover one could easily be modified for proper clearance.
I have read oak dowles make good stand-off for some aplications. If you can ...post some photos of the stand-offs you are using. Thanks Capt,n[X(]
Here is a picture of the stand offs we stock from left to right; DLE55 - 2-11/16" or 68mm, DLE30 - 1-3/16" or 30mm, Red - 7/8" or 22mm, Blue - 5/8" or 16mm. The supplied mounting bolts for the DLE30 are 5mm x .8 x 60mm. Hard wood dowels make great stand offs, they come in any length imaginable, are very inexspensive, and are easy to make with a drill press.
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Old 09-05-2009, 12:43 AM
  #182  
the pope
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Howdy folks I have just purchased the dle 30 and looking into the exhaust port I noticed what i can only describe as scuff marks between the 2 ports on the linner.These are not the honning pattern but more like verticle marks with one stopping about level with the port but the other goes higher . The engine has yet to be run. Is this a common occurence and something I should worry about? cheers the pope
Old 09-05-2009, 03:18 AM
  #183  
RichieN
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!


ORIGINAL: jedijody


ORIGINAL: RichieN

What is the bolt spacing for the prop?

Thanks,
Not sure how this could help anyone but.......center to center across the pattern is 26mm, center to center around the pattern is 18mm.
I'm making the four bolt prop adapter for the conversion engine and I would like to use the same bolt spacing as DL30 to be able to re-use the props in the future.
Thanks,
Old 09-05-2009, 08:51 AM
  #184  
sneakywrist
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Thx for the visual help
Old 09-05-2009, 03:26 PM
  #185  
Speedy-Gonzales
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

MM to inches? Very easy.

1mm = .03937"
10mm=1cm= .3937"
1 meter = 39.37"

As you can see here in the above figures the numbers to remember are 3-9-3-7

1"=25.4mm ( 25.4 x .03937=.999998" )

If you are in a situation where you are just figuring inches to millimeters in your head?
Simply rough the .03937" ( 1mm ) figure to .040" and multiply by the number of millimeters.
.040" is just a "smidge" over 1/32" on a steel ruler.

Example:

Let's say you need a rough guess of what 8mm is.

8 x .040" = .320" and the actual figure would be 8 x .03937=.31496" ( rounded to .315")
A difference of only .005" of an inch. .005" is about the thickness of a human hair! so for all practical purposes you are pretty close.


Using the .040 figure for estimating purposes would get you in the ballpark for drilling holes and such.
For precision machining the industry standard is .03937" and more precise.

The decimal equivalent system is quite easy but for someone that only measures in fractions of an inch
( i.e. 1/64,1/32,1/16,1/4") using a ruler or yardstick it can become very confusing. If you can read micrometers you have got it made. If you measure with a tape measure or ruler...........have someone teach you to read micrometers or better yet...learn to convert fractions to decimals in your head.

Buy a decimal equivalent chart and memorize it. The metric system is here to stay whether we like it or not.

Here is a link with enough info to get you started or completely confused. http://www.dsimn.com/chart.html





Old 09-05-2009, 04:09 PM
  #186  
captinjohn
 
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

[quote]ORIGINAL: captinjohn

ORIGINAL: jedijody

ORIGINAL: captinjohn


ORIGINAL: jedijody

Capt'n,

The crankshaft threads are 8mm x 1.0. I might be tempted to cut threads into the pilot shaft itself but it's hollow and I wouldn't trust it.
Do you see a way of replacing the pilot shaft with one that is not hollow? Capt,n
Sure, the picture is of a CRRC 26cc prop shaft that may be able to be adapted or you could turn one out on a lathe that may be better suited. The CRRC propshaft is only 8mm and has a 4mm spinner bolt hole in the end, most props of the size that fit the DLE30 have a 10mm hole already drilled in the center and the more common spinner bolt size is 5mm but I think it could work, it'll screw right on the DLE crankshaft but the big end is a little to long.
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Old 09-07-2009, 02:30 AM
  #187  
gen3v8
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Ran my DLE30 again. With an hour up it turns an APC 18x8 at 8940rpm.
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Old 09-07-2009, 05:59 AM
  #188  
qspilotcmh
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

My DLE30 should be arriving this week.

What is the recommended oil during break-in and what ratio? TBM recommends Pennzoil air cooled 2-stroke oil mixed at 32:1 for the first 2-3 gallons.

What type of break-in process does DL suggest? TBM recommends tune and fly. They do not recommend running on the ground for 2 hours due to cooling.

Thanks
Old 09-07-2009, 09:41 AM
  #189  
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Pennzoil at 32:1 is a good choice for the break in oil. I'd run a tank on the ground at about 3000-4000 rpm with a few bursts to full throttle, tune the needles, and then go fly. Be ready to re-tune the needles after each tank for a few tanks, mostly the low needle. This is a great little motor.
Sam
PS: 8940 rpm with a APC 18x8? Wow!
Old 09-07-2009, 09:42 AM
  #190  
captinjohn
 
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!


ORIGINAL: gen3v8

Ran my DLE30 again. With an hour up it turns an APC 18x8 at 8940rpm.
What kit or ARF is your Bi-wing? Thanks Capt,n
Old 09-07-2009, 10:09 AM
  #191  
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

Here you go Capt'n

http://www.nitroplanes.com/ul12055nigas.html

Almost the same as the Seagull Ultimate
Old 09-07-2009, 06:37 PM
  #192  
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

I just put my first tank (12 oz, 32:1 Pennzoil, Xoar 18x10 ) through my DLE30... at the end of the tank Idle @2000...... with a full throttle burst to @7450 ..... with factory high needle setting.
Old 09-07-2009, 06:39 PM
  #193  
w8ye
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

That's a little more power than the old US 41's and Quadra 42's?
Old 09-07-2009, 06:44 PM
  #194  
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

So what is the weight everyone is getting with this engine and everything included?
Old 09-07-2009, 07:05 PM
  #195  
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

These DL/DLE engines are super and in my opinion the best gasoline engine to hit the R/C market in a long time. I'm sure it wil not be too long until someone wins a major R/C event with one. That will upset the high rollers! I have 2 DL engines and also a couple ZDZ's. The ZDZ is my first choice but I am begining to have a great deal of respect for the DL/DLE engines.
Kinda getting off the DLE-30 subject with this question but I was told that Zenoah is a sideline product manufactured by Husqvarna. Is this true? If so....they must build some darned heavy chiansaws!!!!! Don't misunderstand me though....the Zenoah engines are extremely dependable and long lived. A custom reworked "Husky" racing engine is hard to beat in the Unlimited Racing arena.
I hope someone offers a line of custom mufflers for this potent 30cc engine. This new DLE-30 is getting better than expected reports. Looks like I will have to have one. Here I go again!

Speedy

An "Expert" is anyone that has crashed more than 10 times!
Old 09-07-2009, 07:34 PM
  #196  
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

From what I have read, Zenoah joined Husqvarna in 2007 or 2008. As far as I know, the Zenoah line was not the same as the Husky line, although the Husqvarna site says that they are also Poulan, Weedeater, etc..
Old 09-07-2009, 07:41 PM
  #197  
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

An update to my earlier post.

This weekend we flew the DLE-30 for over 2 hours flight time. We gave the plane to everybody who wanted to take a turn and it got wrung out thoroughly.

No problems at all. It ran flawlessly for the entire time.

Great engine, Wild Hare is now officially selling them.

TF
Old 09-07-2009, 07:57 PM
  #198  
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!

"""Craig... So what is the weight everyone is getting with this engine and everything included?""""

Engine , Muffler with bolts, stand offs with bolts + nuts + washers , Ignition @ 1190g or 42oz. Plus Ignition Battery 4.8volt 127g or 4.5oz total @ 46.5oz ....Zenoah G20EI over 46.5oz , plus a bigger Battery.
Coming from glow you save weight with a smaller fuel tank, motor mount plus bolt's nuts ect.. from a 120 glow that could be @ 12oz, 120 glow engine @ 30oz ===== DLE30 @ 4.5oz more weight.


"""That's a little more power than the old US 41's and Quadra 42's?"""............. but just over 1/2 the weight........
Old 09-07-2009, 08:55 PM
  #199  
the pope
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!


ORIGINAL: the pope

Howdy folks I have just purchased the dle 30 and looking into the exhaust port I noticed what i can only describe as scuff marks between the 2 ports on the linner.These are not the honning pattern but more like verticle marks with one stopping about level with the port but the other goes higher . The engine has yet to be run. Is this a common occurence and something I should worry about? cheers the pope
Anyone have any ideas? I know with glow engines something like this probably aint good.Cheers the pope
Old 09-07-2009, 09:25 PM
  #200  
mstam1971
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Default RE: NEW DLE30!


ORIGINAL: the pope


ORIGINAL: the pope

Howdy folks I have just purchased the dle 30 and looking into the exhaust port I noticed what i can only describe as scuff marks between the 2 ports on the linner.These are not the honning pattern but more like verticle marks with one stopping about level with the port but the other goes higher . The engine has yet to be run. Is this a common occurence and something I should worry about? cheers the pope
Anyone have any ideas? I know with glow engines something like this probably aint good.Cheers the pope
Post a pic please.


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