SuperCub Man

The 1" of plywood would work quite well. It is heavy so it will help with the balance as well. I needed to add 1/2" to my DLE-30 installation and I cut 4 - 3/4" squares of 1/2" aluminum and center-drilled them to take the 5mm bolts. I had to get longer bolts but the installation is strong and solid. As long as the mounts are solid and square to the motor you will be OK!

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

I got in a few flights on the UltraStick 120 with the DLE-30 yesterday. It is a gentle giant with great vertical using a Vess 19A prop and a 10.5 pound AUW. It is a fun flyer, and lands so easily I really do not need the flaps, although I do have them programmed.

Mikecam

The DLE 30 in my GP super Stearman is coming on strong. Starts great and runs very well. Love the DLE motors.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

MikeCam - GREAT shots! Whoever your photographer is ... KEEP him. And your plane looks great, too.

SuperCubMan - thanks for the tips about the neoprene to hold the spark plug lead. Think I'll try that.

Mikecam

Thanks microdon. Would you believe they are 3 different photographer's. They are all from Gimli Model Fest in Manitoba. Week long RC event, getting bigger every year and it attracts some good picture takers as well.

I also have a DLE 55 in a EF Yak and it is also a great performer. Did the airshow with the beast, had a hoot. Too bad about the full size one.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Mikecam - what's the wingspan on your EF Yak? I definitely see a DLE 55 in my future.

btw - just found the source of my DLE 30 ignition problem. Turns out the two tie-wraps I had securing the Halls Sensor lead were pretty tight - probably TOO tight. I thought, perhaps, one tie had broken a wire. So I just tried another Halls Sensor lead from my DLE 20's ignition - SPARK! And I JUST so happen to have an extra lead, so it appears the problem is solved. Now I just need a gentler way of securing this lead, one that puts little pressure on the wires. Maybe I'll wrap it in some foam, or use split neoprene tubing, as SuperCub Man suggested. Don't you just LOVE it when you get a problem figured out? Can't wait till tomorrow to test this engine.

bcchi

I am still running all three of my DL 30s with side carb they run great.I just converted one back to side carb from rear carb. The rear carb runs fine but engine was to long for the Abel Hobbies Airplane built for DL 30.
BCCHI

av8nmac

I was hoping one of you experienced gas engine guys could answer a few questions I have regarding my DLE 30. First question Ihave is what is the max distance from the carb can I mount the fuel tank. Next, Can the tank be mounted an inch or two above the carb centerline. And lastly, would an 8 ounce tank give me 10 minutes of all around flying time ( cruising, some aerobatics some hot dogging).

All this in installed in a Seagull models Yak 54 90 size plane at approximately 10 lbs.

Thanks,

Paul

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

It doesn't matter where you mount your tank it will pull fuel about 3 feet straight up. The carb has a pump built into it. You could get by with an 8 ounce tank but 12 would be better.

mschulz531

microdon2,
Yes, I do love it when a problem is figured out! Congrats to you! Nothing worse than having an engine work fine one day and won't start the next!
Looking forward to a good report from the field.
-Mike

repinfl

My Feedback: (40)

Thanks for the info.
REPINFL

3D Romeo

My Feedback: (111)

microdon2,

In the DLE-20 manual it mentions using the Spiral Wrap Loom on both the Sensor Lead, and the Spark Plug Wire. It's not mentioned in the DLE-30 manual, however. As a matter of fact, not much is mentioned in the small 4 page DLE-30 manual (written in Engrish). By comparison, the DLE-20 manual is 24 pages.

If you can't get the smaller Spiral Wrap Loom locally (I can't get it at any of the local auto parts stores anymore), McMaster-Carr has it for a very good price (along with allot of other useful items, like fuel tubing, and Zip-Ties). Their shipping prices are also very reasonable (most of my orders are only $4-$6 for shipping).

I also line any cut-out holes in my cowl, or wood structure, with split fuel tubing wherever any wire or fuel line comes in contact with it. You can secure the split fuel line in place with a little thin CA.


Paul,

I used 3/8" spacers made out of aircraft grade plywood to position my DLE-30 correctly in my QQ YAk. I had to use longer bolts because of the extra length. But I glued the spacers to the firewall with epoxy to help solidify things. Everything bolted up very securely, and so far is working fine. If you plan on gluing your spacers to the firewall, and your firewall is already coated with epoxy, or something else to protect it from fuel, don't forget to roughen it up with sandpaper before gluing them.


Mark

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

3D Romeo - I did have the spiral wrap around the Hall Sensor lead! I'll insulate it more next time. Thanks.

3D Romeo

My Feedback: (111)

microdon2,

You might want to consider using Velcro instead of Zip-Ties to secure your wires, and tubing. It won't cut into your wires, and if you cut it into 1/4" wide strips it goes a long way!

Mark

gibatta

My Feedback: (1)

Paul:

; You don't need to change your actual tank, and weight will be around 10.8 pounds dry

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Anyone know the typical turnaround times for engine repairs from VV? Nothing wrong, no pressure, just curious.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

From what I have seen on the forums pretty quick. I have seen guys get them back to the door in less than a week.

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

okay I have a small glitch setting up my dle30..I used the template drilled and mounted the engine.I just looked and realized the screw opposite the throttle side is nearly touching the standoff.the distance between the screw and the standoff is uncomfotably close and I am afraid at somepoint it could for whatever reason make metal to metal contact,it seems that screw just functions as a stop for the throttle.could I simply grind down the standoff a wee bit. help..

GSK

Throw the throttle stop screw away ifthat is the one you are referring to .
Graeme

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

thanks GSK.that is the one.I couldnt see why I couldnt as the throttle has a srping .and my other question is the igntion..they lablelled one lead with tachometer...how does that work ..??

GSK

Sory not sure
g

SuperCub Man

I have been happily flying my 1/4 scale Supercub and Skybolt with the DLE-30 and DLE-55 respectively for some time now and have absolutely no compaints! Love the power and easy starting. I switched to A123 batteries for both with 2- 1N4007 diodes in each Ignition lead. I had a single battery in each plane with two leads to run the IGN and the RCVR, again with no problems. Loved the idea that I saved weight and had only one battery to charge. Then I got a new XMTTR - JR9303 with those neat slide switches on the side and decided they would work well with kill switches. So I got two RCexl kill switches and they worked well for a while. Then I began to get glitches on the Cub and the motor began to stumble through mid range and then right to full throttle. Tried re-adjusting the needles, but no good. The throttle servo jumped all over. Then everything else began to glitch in the Cub so I put it aside and flew the Skybolt, but only got one flight before it began to dance as well. Throttle for the Cub is on the firewall but on the Skybolt it's back with the rudder and elev. servos and uses nyrod to connect to throttle.
My friends and I tried everything we could think of, working first on the Skybolt. Finally noticed that when the motor magnet pulsed, the aileron servo would jump. Changed to a borrowed IGN module and it seemed corrected. But next time at the field it was just as bad. Removed the EXcel kill switch and added a separate battery for the RCVR and still glitched. Bought a new IGN. module and problem cleared. Have just added a Smart-Fly kill switch and all seems good again.
I then did the same with the Cub using the old IGN. module and added the Smart-Fly kill switch and the glitching was cured on the throttle servo but the motor was missing badly and the Ignition Light was flashing on and off in syc. with the misses. So ordered a new IGN. module for it as well.

After all this explanation my question is: Could I have killed the IGN. modules by usuing a single battery with the EXcel Kill Switches? I asked someone else this and they said that normally they kill the RCVR! I now have three Excel IGN. modules that seem to work perfectly when hooked up to the RCexl ignition tester, but are defective on the plane. I understand these can't be repaired and looking inside an old one I see why. Can their defects be analysed? I would like to know what happened to them and possibly save someone else the grief. I've missed a lot of flying after finally getting nice weather!!

SuperCub Man

Buy an EXcel Tachometer and hook it to that lead to tach your motor!!

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Supercub Man - Are you not going to return those two ignitions under warranty? I sent my DLE 30's defective ignition back to Tower and they gave me a new one. Probably JediJody from Valley View would be a good guy to address your questions to. He seems to know everything.

mschulz531

There is an optional RCExcel tach option - you can just wrap that up, tuck it away, and ignore it.
-Mike