RHarding

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For my gas engines I use Klotz oil at a 32:1 ratio. What would be the pro or con on mixing at 40:1 and adding about 2 oz of castor oil? Can castor mix ok with gas/Klotz mixture?

Richard

mrbigg

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What would be the pro or con on mixing at 40:1 and adding about 2 oz of castor oil?


If your going to add extra oil, why not just run it at 32:1? Are you having cooling/cylinder scuffing issues?

captinjohn

I think some Klotz oil that are not pure synthetic have castor already. Not sure. Just google Klotz for the website. Capt,n

Tired Old Man

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If you like a varnished piston and cylinder in a gas engine then Klotz and castor are something you could use to achieve your goals relatively quickly.

altavillan

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Looks like they've already done it for you. http://klotzlube.com/proddetail.asp?...%5FQuart&cat=4

captinjohn

Your reply is kinda a general statement. There are various blends of Klotz oil. Each can has a different part# One blend is pure synthetic. If you add castor to a any type oil with caster allready in it...you coild end up with varnish. Also if you use the right after run oils...it will lossen up the hard carbon ,ect ant most will blow right out the exhaust on start-up. I have done this since late 1970 and know it works. Capt,n

BarracudaHockey

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Get some Royal Purple, mix it at 90:1 and fly happy. Varnish and soot free

RHarding

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I see a lot of posts about gas/oil mixtures. Most use Klotz KL 100 or KL 200. I haven't seen any with Klotz RC Modelube. Why is that? Did I just miss those posts? It's made for gas.

In re: Roral Purple. Which of their oils do you use? The auto store here where I get my auto oil sells it, but I don't know anything about it.

Thanks,

Richard

Truckracer

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Not sure where you saw all those posts about Klotz oils in gas .... surely not here in the Gas Engine forum. In the dozens of oil discussions over the years, Klotz is probably one of the least discussed oils. I know some people use it but my experiences have been poor at best when I tried it many years ago. Even in glo fuel, I prefer other oils over Klotz where switching away from it solved a multitude of problems.

RHarding

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Truckracer,

Sorry you had an unhappy experience with Klotz. I have been using Klotz in glow engines since my U/C speed days in the late 60's and then off and on in my glow R/C engines since then. I have used it in my gas R/C engines, weedeaters, blowers, and chain saw off and on for years. I have nothing but good things to say about Klotz. My original question was about mixing a small amount of castor oil with the Klotz/gas mix. Don't know why some people prefer to stir the pot and not stay with the theme of the forum. Once again I am so sorry you did not have a good experience with the Klotz oil. Have you considered the possibility that you mixed it incorrectly?

RCAddiction

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Not sure why one would want to add castor oil in a gas 2 stroke engine. If this were a 2 stroke glow engine, sure. Klotz remains a major player in glow fuel lubrication. With and without castor. Not so in 2 stroke gasoline. At least not today.

There have been significant advances in oil available for gas 2 stroke engines since the 60's and 70's, absolutely no offense intended. Most are far better options than Klotz with or without castor. Redline, Belray, Stihl, Royal Purple, and Pennzoil Aircooled are all good options today.

Truckracer

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Sorry if I strayed from the subject line. Please accept my apology. My opinions on adding castor to any oil brand in a gasser are pretty well summed up in other peoples posts .... #4 and #11 in particular. I can't think of any useful purpose for using castor in a gasser.

As for my glo experiences with Klotz or Klotz with castor added or premixed, I simply found better alternatives that didn't present the problems that I had with Klotz. Not saying Klotz isn't a good product at all just that Klotz didn't work out as well as other oils in my applications.

Tired Old Man

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Captn.

My comments about castor in oil were directed towards gas engines. Gas engines run much hotter than glow engines, where castor is normally used. As heat increases castor turns to a varnish. Any amount of castor in a gas engine will become ugly over time. The amount added determines the time. The stuff makes a nasty glaze on cylinder walls and pistons, frequenty defeating the ring seal. Whether the oil is synthetic or mineral based doesn't matter if it's used in a gas engine. The end result by adding castor is the same. Just visualize a lighter shade of brown that you see cooked onto the outside of glow engines if you want to know what it looks like. Adding a lot of castor soon converts the inside appearance of a gas engine to closely resemble the outside of an uncared for glow engine with a lot of time on it.

As RC Addiction noted, there are too many far superior oils available off the shelf for gas engines to add castor to a gas fuel mix. BTW, I won't use Klotz either, but people make their own choices for their own reasons.

altavillan

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Better quit using RedLine oil then cause it's a Castor oil 2 cycle mix. http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...p?categoryID=3

Truckracer

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I see comparisons to the lubricity and other characteristics of castor oil but couldn't find a statement that says the oil contains castor. Or did I miss something there.

RHarding

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Now, that's the answers I was hoping for. Thanks to everyone. It's good to hear straight forward answers or comments from several people. We can learn, no matter how old we are or how long we have been in this wonderful hobby. I like that small amount of castor in my glow engines. It will save an engine if one leans the engine a little toooooo much. Tired Old Man, you brought something up that I had totally forgotten. Gas engines do run hot. I thank all of you for your comments. Truckracer, if I offended you with my post yesterday, I appologize.

Have a great day,

Richard

RCAddiction

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Red Line Synthetic Oil Corporation makes an oil mix with castor? Too funny. Show us where it is stated. Their oils are full synthetic, including the RedLine Racing oil that many of us use in our planes.

BarracudaHockey

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2 cycle TCW-III

It's motor cycle racing oil. Cleaned out the black from Amsol in less than a gallon and the motor is clean as a whistle now.

andrew66

Just use whatever 2stroke oil for air cooled engines thats available. I happen to use castrol grand prix right now, but if the store doesnt have it, I will use something else.
The only thing thats critical is using the correct oil ratio.
As previously stated, I dont think castor oil would be a good idea. Im sure that in small amounts, it probably would take a long time to affect anything. I always liked the smell of burning castor oil though. I guess the carbon/varnish could always be blown out of the engine by spraying a light mist of water in the carb with the engine at mid throttle. An old mechanic taught me that trick. It really blasts all the crap out of the engine.

Tired Old Man

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That trick might help a little with the piston dome and combustion chamber but it won't have any effect on the ring, ring groove, cylinder walls and piston skirts whatsoever.

andrew66

actually it does. Anywhere the flame from combustion contacts, it will clean. The water boils causing steam. The steam will follow the flame front, and will be like using a steam cleaner on the combustion chamber, the cylinder walls and the top of the piston and part of the ring grooves. You dont have to worry about the piston skirt, cause it would take gobs and gobs of varnish and sludge to affect anything. The trick with the water, is to do it a number of times, to ensure a good cleaning. Doing it once or twice wont do a very good job.

Tired Old Man

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If you say so, but ....

captinjohn

Tired old man, I am sorry...I read you post wrong...was thinking more along the lines of glow fuel. I did say if you add more castor to a oil that has castor in it, you would end up with varnish. I do believe there are better oils now. I do wish a few of you guys would try what I said about using after run oils in glow engine & in spark 2cycle engines...rev the engine to top rpm and throw choke on to kill the engine after last run of the day. It will loosen the carbon and your engine lots of times will start the next day without the choke. In that time when the engine is setting..seals are coated & all the inside parts are protected. TYR IT Somebody. Best Regards Capt,n

Tired Old Man

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Capt'n,

Thanks for the clarification. I'd like tro add a little input about the after run oils. The engines I see generally have more hours on them that any model engine might hope to attain. Those that have been run using a good synthetic at 50-1 or denser ratios have little carbon in them at the time they are removed from use. A caveat is they don't run excessively rich like so many modelers like to run theirs. A clean burn at a well balanced air to fuel ratio makes a lot of difference in carbon accumulation and self cleaning. Most all the better synthetics do a pretty fair job of self cleaning when mixed appropriately. The minerals require a lot more oil in the mix to self clean as well.

My opinion is modelers (myself included) frequently become overly concerned about the oil used instead of the ratio used. Just as important is taking the time to correctly tune the engine for the prop and airframe it's used on. Far too many people pull an engine out of the box and go fly without ever considering carb tuning, which is a necessity during the running of the first tank of gas. Then there's the group that want to run "a little rich" ,or 100-200 degrees rich of peak. Toss in those that fail to consider cylinder cooling and you have a whole lot of engines where the brand of oil used will have little difference in the final outcome. Modelers just don't run their engines hard enough for the "best" oils to make much of a difference over a "good" oil. Our fun flying uses engines providing .75 to 1, up to 2 to 1 power to weight ratios so they don't work very hard.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Capt'n

I always respect your opinions on these forums because you're such a gentleman in the way you post here. Respectfully though, I can't see the value of using after run oils and choking the engine after the last run of the day. Here's my reasons. First, unlike glo engines, I have never seen corrosion or rust inside our gasers ... so after run oils seem pointless. I wouldn't want to choke the engine to kill it because all my fleet of gassers are stored in my house .... so the smell from the excess gas would be noticed and would be objectionable. As it is, they hardly have an odor at all. Of course the cat pan nearby might help mask any odor anyway ... And as for carbon buildup, oil selection (and ratios as TOM pointed out) seems to pretty much eliminate that as a problem. I've pretty much migrated back to cheap (or should that be reasonable priced) oils that are available close to home and mixed at generous ratios. Pennzoil at the present time seems to fill the bill quite nicely.