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Amsoil 50:1 and 100:1 Temp diff in BME 102?

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Amsoil 50:1 and 100:1 Temp diff in BME 102?

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Old 07-28-2004, 11:30 PM
  #51  
Antique
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Default RE: Amsoil 50:1 and 100:1 Temp diff in BME 102?

Bill has just comfirmed what I have said all along, more oil makes more power...I ran a test comparing 50-1 petroleum and 20 PERCENT petroleum in a 445 Zenoah...24-10 prop, 50-1, 6800 rpm...Same engine, same prop, about 10 minutes later, 7000 rpm...Thank you SIR...
You guys believe it now ?
We always run 10% oil in our unlimited race engine a , 289cc Herbrandson twin...
Messy but effective ...
Old 07-28-2004, 11:55 PM
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Default RE: Amsoil 50:1 and 100:1 Temp diff in BME 102?


Flyerbk
More oil in the pot.
I recently purchased some Klotz M/C 2 stroke syn. oil. The hard chargers use it on most dirt tracks.
It feels like a 40 weight viscosity.
I have used it as a main lube in my YS 120's and have outstanding results with it. In 8 years of flying with the Sacramento Barnstormers, I had not one flight lost because of poor engine performance. My ? is... will my fuji50 handle it? At 50-1
I have noticed a cleaner exhaust from the Fuji oil @ 50-1
TNX Zee
AMA129570
Old 07-29-2004, 01:02 PM
  #53  
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Default RE: Amsoil 50:1 and 100:1 Temp diff in BME 102?

ZebraOne,

If I understand your question you are asking about the oil to be used in your Fuji, I am not familiar with that particular engine but it should be ok IF the oil is meant to be mixed with the fuel you are using and Klotz MC 2 is good oil, in other words some oils that are made for gasoline are not mixable with alcohol based fuel. and some oils made to be used in alcohol based fuel are not recommended for gasoline.

One of the ways to determine how well a specific oil is doing in protecting and lubricating an engine is to check for piston ring sticking, this is specially true on engines that are run hard, some oils will form lots of deposits under high temps. that can really goo up an engine and cause the rings to stick. The other thing that is usually checked by engine people is cylinder and piston wear/scuffing, if the oil is not doing the job one of the first things that will be noticed is premature piston wear specially on the "thrust" side of the bore or on the exhaust side of the piston.

A real tough test of oil is to take a new engine that has never been run and run it under full load at max horsepower with no break-in and see if it lives with out piston/cylinder damage, some engine manufacturers use this method to help determine which oils to recommend for their particular engine, it is a real tough test.

New engines that have not been run like DA, 3W, ZdZ, Taurus etc. should ALWAYS be run Slightly rich with some added oil for the first few gallons, it is cheap insurance that your engine will have a long happy life. I would also recommend that the first few flights 3 to 5 or so should be made with very little time spent at full throttle, this gives the rings a chance to start seating before they have to handle the high heat load of extended full throttle, you most certainly will NOT hurt the engine doing this even though sometimes one hears that you should run the engine hard right from the beginning.

After break-in I have had very good results using Amsoil 100 to 1 mixed at 90 to 100 to 1, there are other oils out there that are very good also but I personally like Amsoil 100 to 1 and for break-in I like Pennzoil 2 stroke air cooled oil. I run my engines a little longer on petroleum based oil before switching to synthetic than many engine manufacturers recommend, I find this helps the rings fully seat before switching to synthetic oil which does slow the engine wear process and of course would slow the complete ring seating process.

A word about engine deposits which we try to avoid, they are more likely to form in engines that are not adaquately cooled so if you are seeing excess deposits or early ring sticking then maybe you need some baffling for improved air flow around the cylinders in your plane.

Klotz, Redline, Honda and Stihl amoung others are good oils too.

flierbk
Old 07-29-2004, 03:41 PM
  #54  
cwoodstx
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Default RE: Amsoil 50:1 and 100:1 Temp diff in BME 102?

I am currently breaking in a DA 50 with lawnboy at 32:1, at a slightly rich setting. The engine runs very well, shows no sign of overheating, and has plenty of power for my needs.

You will be able to tell from this question that I don't have much experience with these engines - but, what is the downside of never switching to a synthetic oil, in other words what would happen if I just ran lawnboy 32:1 indefinitely?
Old 07-29-2004, 04:56 PM
  #55  
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Default RE: Amsoil 50:1 and 100:1 Temp diff in BME 102?

Many people run non synthetic oil in there 2 stroke engines and you can too, the down side is that over time you will probably accumulate more deposits in the engine as the synthetic oils tend to leave less carbon build up in the engine. If the engine is well cooled and not run too lean the life would be about the same as synthetic oil but the outside of the plane will have more oil on it to clean up.

flierbk
Old 07-29-2004, 05:37 PM
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Default RE: Amsoil 50:1 and 100:1 Temp diff in BME 102?

Thanks Flierbk

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