SBeachman

My Feedback: (8)

Hey all !
Going to throw a Brand-New ZDZ-80 RV Single in a 'formerly-underpowered' Hangar 9 33% CAP232. Any special tips for running / breaking in / tuning / Care of this engine.
It's brand new, I understand it has plenty of power for this plane and I want it to last.
Please share with me your experiences, and it will help others, too ! How cool is that !
I ordered some 2.400" long engine standoffs from Forgues Custom. When they arrive I want to get it in the air ASAP, so I can practice a little before the real cold weather comes in the NorthEast. Thanks guys & gals !

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

I have 25 flights on mine in a 33% Super Decathlon and I couldn't be happier with the engine. I don't know if you got it from RC Showcase but if you didn't, go to their web site www.RCShowcase.com and go strictly by the breakin instructions. They work. I'm ready to wean mine off the 40:1 synthetic diet and go to 50:1 Amsoil 2000 synthetic. Also, on the RCS web site take a look at the cooling baffle that I designed. The link is on the main page.

Good flying,
Ken

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

Ive put 100 flights on mine in the last 8mo. Ran right out of the box without touching a thing. Follow the papers it comes with and you will be happy! Video's below.

VinceL

Let me preface this by saying I really like my 80 single. I have had a problem that has my engine going back for warranty repair and evaluation. I have had 2 occurances of the plug loosening to the point the engine quit. First time I thought maybe I just forgot to tighten it up sufficiently. Then I heard of others locally having the same problem. Started checking it every flight for a few and had a couple of times it loosened 1/16 turn. After a while I felt it was ok to go to every other flight for a check. A short time later same thing again, dead stick loose plug etc. I am an aircraft mechanic and have operated gas model engines for years, I know how to tighten a plug. The other locals say they used a little blue loctite on their plugs and no more problems. I really doubt that this is doing much since this is a high heat environment which will break loctite down. Our flying season is about gone so mine is going back to RCS for evaluation, there must be a problem somewhere. I feel the problem lies in the little cup washer under the plug, silly design in my opinion. So.... watch your plug, if there is any black goo around it tighten it.
RCS says 15 ft lbs torque.

rmh

A note of caution -- 15 ft lbs of torque is very high-
A very firm pull on a 5" handle is much safer and works for me.
I ran destruction tests on the threads (an old cyl) and they start to give at less than 20 lbs.
the plugs have 3 full turns of engagement and if you are putting a oily plug (lubricated) into the hole - the force on the threads will INCREASE before the wrench reads 15 lbs!!
If you don't believe this -read up on torque recommendations from various mfg's.
I have and run, many different ZDZ engines .
Also I have tried various plug tightening setups and the simple "short handle hard pull" setup is still the best.

VinceL

Dick,

I fully agree with your short handle and a good grunt method, in fact it's pretty hard to do anything else with that little stamped socket that comes with the engine. I talked with RCS yesterday so that's where the spec comes from. I have never had a plug back off with several gas engines and several years experience. I gotta think something is wrong with mine. I know you have lots of experience with ZDZ, ever have problems like this?

SBeachman

My Feedback: (8)

Great info so far.......

So I'm ok with the oil / break in procedure.

I'm up to date on the spark plug.

What about the best prop for IMAC and/or 3D

Using Wood ? Carbon ?

Ignition batts......4.8 V ? 6.0 ? 900 Mah ?? 1200 Mah ?

Just looking to not re-invent the wheel.

I'd love to hear about your success stories.

I'd REALLY love to see pictures of a ZDZ-80 in a Hangar 9 33% CAP 232 . Anybody ?

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Seems the most popular prop with this engine is the Menz S 26x10...

I have Bambula's (I'm just getting ready to switch to from a breakin prop of 26x8 to the "best size" 26x10).

The Bambulas are not RPM monsters, but they do have a lot of efficient umph.

Quieter too than other designs. With the canister pipe and Bambula, it gets drowned out sometimes by 40 size glow planes. It also gets scarily quiet on downlines...

I will try a Menz S on it at some point to compare the difference in "reel feel"...

branded

My Feedback: (9)

I like my ZDZ 80 so much, I bought a second one. It's probably the most powerfull 80cc I've ever owned.

My first one I installed in a Ziroli P40 turning a Mejlik 24-10 3-bladed prop. The airplane hauls *****!

The only "problem", if you can call it a problem, was hen I recieved mine the timing wasn't set right and it was kicking back.

I used the instructions and set the hall sensor to 6mm as directed and that fixed that problem.

Good luck.

greenboot

My Feedback: (1)

You asked about the battery also. I'm using an 1100mAh NiMh (4 cells). I've made 5 flights and still had plenty of battery remaining.

I use the cheap (and light weight) side mount muffler and a 26x10 Bambula prop. The noise level is quite acceptable. My 24 oz tank gives me at least 13 minutes of flying.

Overall, I'm very satisfied with it, my first gasser.

Tom

lennyk

My Feedback: (12)

You need to be careful with the muffler and prop bolts.
Drill the props carefully with a drill press and then flip over the prop and check them from the other side. Otherwise it is possible that a bolt may be very slightly off and go into the prop hub skewed and very tight and may damage threads in the prop hub, this will also put a shearing force on the bolt and could cause problems down the road.

Also check your muffler bolts often, mine ran loose once and damaged the threads in one of the holes, I now have to try and see if I can increase and tap the hole to 6mm.
The supplied muffler bolts thread in about 10mm, but the hole looks like it is threaded 17mm, a longer bolt could probably be used.

I have learnt that with these big engines a little more maintenance tightening checks are required.

Diablo-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

Drill the prop from the back (hub) side using the jig - that way the bolt is perpendicular to the threaded hole in the hub where it matters most. Yes, longer metric exhaust bolts are helpful. I haven't had any trouble with the plug loosening (about 350 flights), but agree that it would be an improvement if they went to a small 10mm plug (NGK CM6) using a crush washer and got away from the tapered seat spark plug. Don't remove the plug on a hot engine - aluminum doesn't have much strength when hot and you can pull the threads out. A buddy cross threaded his plug and the local auto parts store installed a helicoil (steel) insert for $25. I use Mobil MX2T oil at 32:1, $3.50 / pint. The Menz-S 26x10 prop is a great match for the H9-Cap and engine.

Paul Cataldo

My Feedback: (10)

Guys,
I thought I had my timing set to the recommended 6mm, but I have noticed that my 80 tends to kick back a lot, when I'm cranking the engine. Which way do I need to move the sensor? Clockwise or counterclockwise? (from standing directly IN FRONT of the engine) Thanks.

lennyk

My Feedback: (12)

Paul, if you look on Rcshowcase's website you will see a picture of how the ignition sensor should be placed and adjusted to. Finding TDC is the hardest part, you should look in the cylinder to see when the piston is at TDC.

Check

http://www.rcshowcase.com./html/faq.html

Leaned my engine a bit today post breakin and it has smoothened up significantly.
I put in the cowl baffle described there and my engine ran noticeable cooler also.
No complaints with this engine so far.

Bobby likes 3D

Ok then here is my 2 cents... 3 Weeks ago I mounted a shiny new ZDZ 80RV Single in my Hangar 9 33% CAP232. Out at the club the boys say, WHOLY BAT SH#T BATMAN, WHAT YA GOT IN THAT THANG??? I just smile and say ZDZ baby. Im currently at 6 gallons and getting more pleased with every gallon. Follow the ZDZ breakin instructions to LETTER! First Gallon "Penzoil 2-stroke air cooled" @ 40:1. Then gallons 2-6 synthetic (I use Amsoil and Redline) @ 40:1. Then its synthetic at 50:1. Im currently using a Bambula 26-10 for the breakin, and will switch to a Mejzlik 26-10, and a Menz-S 26-10 shortly. The first time I started the engine it fired up and it ran a lil rich, after a small adjustment she ran terrific. I just switched to 50:1 and readadjusted the carb for it. My only gripe is starting, I choke it ign on 1-2 flips and fires fine and stops, unchoke 5 flips before she pops and about 15 to 20 before she starts, you can hear it popin but its like im not fliping it fast enough. I have equated this to a new tight engine, but time will tell. The engine idles real low and sounds nice and throaty with a Bisson Pitts and the Bambula. Everyone comments on the sound, not loud just sounds the way it should. One club member even offered to trade me a 40% Giles with a 3W-150 straight across. Sorry partner, not today. Now the others that fly the bigger stuff are takin a real hard look at ZDZ. I think that warrants some ZDZ 80RV decals from David at RCShowcase, dont u? I have the CG set at 75% back from the forward recommended limit. I also have the controls set to the values that the manual states TO THE LETTER. Mr. McConville know what he is doing so take the good advise. The Specs are at follows:

Airframe: Hangar 9 33% CAP 232, final weight dry is 22.5 lbs.

Engine: ZDZ 80RV single w/Bambula 26-10 prop, Velocity Stack, Mpi 1900 Mah Nicad on ignition, Bisson Pitts muffler, custom aluminum standoffs 2.6in. in length, and a 32oz fuel tank (Baffle your cowl, its easy...)

Recievers: (2) JR S700 FM 7 channel

Reciever batts: (2) Mpi 1900 Mah 4.8v Nicads

Wing servos: (4) Hitec 5625 digital servos w/AirWild 1.25in alum. arms

Tail servos: (4) Hitec 5945 digital coreless servos w/AirWild 1.25in alum. arms

Smoke system: TME simple smoke pump II w/a 600 Mah 4.8v Nicad and 32oz smoke tank

The plane is an outstanding performer. Takeoff at half throttle, torgue roll at less that half throttle, harriers rock solid w/ no wing rock and with smoke on real low over the runway, eveyone is watching, harrier rolls easier than my Extra 300s, sequences are a breeze.

Best of Luck with yours, you will love it!

Bobby

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Bobby,

I'll bet that Mejzlik 16-10 really turns up the RPM. Ha ha just kidding. I now have 30 flights on my 33% Super Decathlon with the 80RV. One of if not the best engines that I've ever owned. I have the choke on a servo operated by the channel 5 retract switch. On each start after the first start of the day, while holding the radio in my left hand I flip the choke switch up and turn the ignition on. As I flip the prop, when it fires, I flip the switch down and the engine stays running. This works almost every time. Even when I'm not quiet quick enough to keep it running, it still only takes about 3 more flips.

I'm also using the Bambula 26-10 and the Bisson Pitts with 1" cut off each pipe. This produces a very good sound. Not loud at all.

Ken

ScottK

My Feedback: (9)

I never use the choke after the first start of the day.

Throttle at one click above idle and it starts with one or two flips if the engine has any heat left in it.

If the engine's no longer warm, you're not flying enough!!!

rmh

After yet another weekend flying my Giles and 80 single setup - I am still convinced that one of the best values in a 100 twin- is a ZDZ80 single -
On another related point -
My new 100 ZDZNG is really terrific and runs the SAME Mejzlic 26x10 about 400/ 500 rpm faster ( best comparative test so far - each engine on JMB cans) .
the numbers were 6300 on the 80 and 6700-6800 on the 100. That is a lot more power .
these were not optomized tests - just a prop switch and comparison at the field.
On larger cans and on tuned setups -the rpm is way up on either engine

carbon wingnut

Hey Bobby try this starting procedure, it works for most ZDZ'zs I have seen. Just try it once, if it doesn't work for you go back to your old method, (standard starting procedure for ZDZ). It sounds like you are flooding it, by using this procedure you will get rid of the 10-20 flips. Scott K. is also correct choking after the first flight of the day is usually not need at all, and if it is it is one flip with the ignition off. On step 3, 5-6 is usually all you need. This really works good. ZDZ are unbelievably easy to start especially after the first flight of the day.

Here is what I recommend for starting:

Please keep in mind this my opinion (that works ) Iam not sponsored nor do I work for ZDZ............

1. Insure Ignition is OFF
2. Engage Choke
3. 5-10 flips through compression, (mileage may vary on choked flips due to your engine, altitude, full moon etc.etc).
4. Dis-engage the Choke (ignition is still in the off position)
5. 1-3 Clearing flips, (again mileage may vary usually only needs 2 flips, but if you have a weird condition or you just born on a bad day you may need more clearing flips.)
6. Set your throttle a couple of clicks above Idle, (2-3 )
7. Turn on your ignition and start your engine.

All other flights that day

USE SAME PROCEDURE ACCEPT FOR STEP THREE.

3. 1-3 flips through compression

For the most part after the first flight of the day I have found that ZDZ's start first flip with out even choking them.

If any one has a problem with my (and many other peoples) starting procedure for ZDZ's fire away I have my Nomex undies on.


KC
Fromeco Scale Avionics LLC
[email protected]
www.fromeco.org

SBeachman

My Feedback: (8)

Do you need to change spark plugs after break-in ?

Is the FINAL fuel mix 50:1 Amsoil the way to go ?

Bobby likes 3D

I havent changed my plug after breakin and it still looks and works good, remember dont run your engine too rich during breakin, you wont help it you will hurt it due to deposits. Also after that first Gallon of Penzoil air-cooled at 40:1 "Amsoil 100:1" (thats the name) mixed at 50:1 will be perfect. No prolonged full throttle runs and best of luck to ya.

Bobby

Forgues Research

My Feedback: (7)

If you use Amsoil 100:1, don't mix it at 50:1, too much oil. Mix it at about 95:1

3 years now with my ZDZ 80 twin with this mixture and it will rip my 26*10 and it keeps getting more powerfull.

Bobby likes 3D

Aerografixs

We are talking about BREAKIN, after the 5 gallons of 40:1 synthetic recomended by the engine manufacturer he could then switch to 95:1 or whatever. Keep in mind that anything over the manufacturers recommended 50:1 will void your waranty. Some guys say how will they know though? I dont know if they will be able to tell or not, IM NOT VOIDING MY WARRANTY!

Bobby, on my way out the door to the field...

SBeachman

My Feedback: (8)

Hey is that the Roger from Aerographix that I just bought the standoffs from ?

Small world !

Well, that's the ZDZ-80 I'm putting in the CAP 232 TONIGHT !

It will be flying by this Sunday. 10/26/03

Thanks once again for ALL the great info guys !!

Forgues Research

My Feedback: (7)

An engine manufacturer will allways recomend more oil since he doesn't know which oil company you are going with.

You shouldn't breakin an engine with synthetic oil to begin with. With the ZDZ you should go with Penzoil and then switch to synthetic.

If you use Amsoil, they have a 50:1 series 2000 or the 100:1.