Sachs 4.2 Engine
07-09-2003, 10:34 AM
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Sachs 4.2 Engine
Looking for some info guys. I have recently bought a used Sachs 4.2. I need some manuals on the maintenance of this engine. Does anyone know who manufacters this engine and where I might obtain needed info? Thanks for your input.
jimstro
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07-09-2003, 01:41 PM
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Sachs 4.2 Engine
ALL 4.2 engines use the very same Sachs cylinder..There is no maintenance, just keep the screws tight, run enough good oil, and fly it..The engine will live longer than any plane you put it on...The diaphragm in the carb will need replacement every few years 
12-14-2006, 10:03 PM
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RE: Sachs 4.2 Engine
Any oil, 31 to 50 to 1 will be good...You can buy chainsaw oil in six packs, one small bottle to a gallon of gas, most manufacturers...Poulan, Dolmar, Briggs and Stratton, Shindaiwa, Homelite, etc....Wal Mart is a good source....Pennzoil Air Cooled 2 stroke oil is as good as there is....
12-14-2006, 11:46 PM
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RE: Sachs 4.2 Engine
Parts are still available for the Sachs 4.2.
If you need any in the future try Southgate Aero Inc. Taurus engines www.taurus-engines.com
Sachs engines seem comfortable with Stihl oil at 50:1 or as mentioned any good 2 stroke oil.
If you need any in the future try Southgate Aero Inc. Taurus engines www.taurus-engines.com
Sachs engines seem comfortable with Stihl oil at 50:1 or as mentioned any good 2 stroke oil.
12-15-2006, 11:36 PM
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RE: Sachs 4.2 Engine
I'm currently running 3 orange case Sachs engines in my Texan (4.2), Sea Fury (4.2) and Corsair (5.2). I like the simplicity and reliability of the magneto sparked engines and have had fantastic performance from each of them for more than a few years now. Like Ralph says, just make sure you have sufficient oil in the gas and run them for all their worth. They will give you years of good service. My 4.2 Sachs in my Sea Fury is going on 13 years old and has never missed a lick.
Attached picture shows mounting in Jack Devine Bearcat.
Attached picture shows mounting in Jack Devine Bearcat.
12-16-2006, 12:29 AM
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RE: Sachs 4.2 Engine
An orange case Sachs may not be the Bling Bling engine of the month, and while it may be as ugly as an anvil, its also as tough as one and as reliable.
01-29-2007, 05:55 AM
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RE: Sachs 4.2 Engine
OK I think I have the timing set runs better the carb setting I believe are way off low end are almost a1/8 for a turn out and the high a little more.still seems thatit doent whant to peack to full throttle cuts out seems to be strugling.
940-594-4482 Dale
940-594-4482 Dale
01-23-2016, 01:37 PM
#19
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WALBRO CARB ADJUSTMENT / LOW END FIRST
· Both Needles Set To 2 Turns Out (Always Start Rich) (SEE NOTE)
o Low : Closest To Engine
o High : Farthest Away From Engine
· Start Engine At Lowest Throttle Setting
· Let It Slowly Warm Up For One Minute ( DO NOT REV IT UP)
· If Engine Stutters Or Quits While Slowly Going From Idle To
Full Speed It Is “Rich” On The Low End (We Set It That Way)
· Slowly Turn The Low Needle “In” Until You Can Go To Wide Open Throttle
· Lean The Low End FIRST Until You Have The Highest Rpm Possible.
· High End Setting Can Best Be Found By Starting At Rich Setting.
· Lean The High End Very Slowly Until Max Rpm Is Achieved. Stop!
· Do Not Adjust For Lower Rpm… You Will Be Too Rich.
Now:
· Your Engine Is Never Too Lean
· Your RPM’s Are At Maximum
· Rapid Transition Is Achieved...
NOTE: YOU CAN START WITH “FACTORY SETTINGS” FOR YOUR HIGH AND LOW NEEDLES SETTINGS: ONLY
IF YOU ADD ¼ TURN TO EACH. YOU MUST ALWAYS START RICH SO YOU ARE ALWAYS LEANING THE MIXTURES.
This is the fastest way to adjust your engine for Maximum RPM and safest for your engine longevity.
check the timing first: TLH101 IS RIGHT ON!
· Both Needles Set To 2 Turns Out (Always Start Rich) (SEE NOTE)
o Low : Closest To Engine
o High : Farthest Away From Engine
· Start Engine At Lowest Throttle Setting
· Let It Slowly Warm Up For One Minute ( DO NOT REV IT UP)
· If Engine Stutters Or Quits While Slowly Going From Idle To
Full Speed It Is “Rich” On The Low End (We Set It That Way)
· Slowly Turn The Low Needle “In” Until You Can Go To Wide Open Throttle
· Lean The Low End FIRST Until You Have The Highest Rpm Possible.
· High End Setting Can Best Be Found By Starting At Rich Setting.
· Lean The High End Very Slowly Until Max Rpm Is Achieved. Stop!
· Do Not Adjust For Lower Rpm… You Will Be Too Rich.
Now:
· Your Engine Is Never Too Lean
· Your RPM’s Are At Maximum
· Rapid Transition Is Achieved...
NOTE: YOU CAN START WITH “FACTORY SETTINGS” FOR YOUR HIGH AND LOW NEEDLES SETTINGS: ONLY
IF YOU ADD ¼ TURN TO EACH. YOU MUST ALWAYS START RICH SO YOU ARE ALWAYS LEANING THE MIXTURES.
This is the fastest way to adjust your engine for Maximum RPM and safest for your engine longevity.
check the timing first: TLH101 IS RIGHT ON!
01-23-2016, 02:07 PM
#20
WALBRO CARB ADJUSTMENT / LOW END FIRST
· Both Needles Set To 2 Turns Out (Always Start Rich) (SEE NOTE)
o Low : Closest To Engine
o High : Farthest Away From Engine
· Start Engine At Lowest Throttle Setting
· Let It Slowly Warm Up For One Minute ( DO NOT REV IT UP)
· If Engine Stutters Or Quits While Slowly Going From Idle To
Full Speed It Is “Rich” On The Low End (We Set It That Way)
· Slowly Turn The Low Needle “In” Until You Can Go To Wide Open Throttle
· Lean The Low End FIRST Until You Have The Highest Rpm Possible.
· High End Setting Can Best Be Found By Starting At Rich Setting.
· Lean The High End Very Slowly Until Max Rpm Is Achieved. Stop!
· Do Not Adjust For Lower Rpm… You Will Be Too Rich.
Now:
· Your Engine Is Never Too Lean
· Your RPM’s Are At Maximum
· Rapid Transition Is Achieved...
NOTE: YOU CAN START WITH “FACTORY SETTINGS” FOR YOUR HIGH AND LOW NEEDLES SETTINGS: ONLY
IF YOU ADD ¼ TURN TO EACH. YOU MUST ALWAYS START RICH SO YOU ARE ALWAYS LEANING THE MIXTURES.
This is the fastest way to adjust your engine for Maximum RPM and safest for your engine longevity.
check the timing first: TLH101 IS RIGHT ON!
· Both Needles Set To 2 Turns Out (Always Start Rich) (SEE NOTE)
o Low : Closest To Engine
o High : Farthest Away From Engine
· Start Engine At Lowest Throttle Setting
· Let It Slowly Warm Up For One Minute ( DO NOT REV IT UP)
· If Engine Stutters Or Quits While Slowly Going From Idle To
Full Speed It Is “Rich” On The Low End (We Set It That Way)
· Slowly Turn The Low Needle “In” Until You Can Go To Wide Open Throttle
· Lean The Low End FIRST Until You Have The Highest Rpm Possible.
· High End Setting Can Best Be Found By Starting At Rich Setting.
· Lean The High End Very Slowly Until Max Rpm Is Achieved. Stop!
· Do Not Adjust For Lower Rpm… You Will Be Too Rich.
Now:
· Your Engine Is Never Too Lean
· Your RPM’s Are At Maximum
· Rapid Transition Is Achieved...
NOTE: YOU CAN START WITH “FACTORY SETTINGS” FOR YOUR HIGH AND LOW NEEDLES SETTINGS: ONLY
IF YOU ADD ¼ TURN TO EACH. YOU MUST ALWAYS START RICH SO YOU ARE ALWAYS LEANING THE MIXTURES.
This is the fastest way to adjust your engine for Maximum RPM and safest for your engine longevity.
check the timing first: TLH101 IS RIGHT ON!
01-23-2016, 02:54 PM
#21
My Feedback: (27)
Glad we could help. The pilots on rcu are the best in the world. No matter what the question someone will be there to help.
I been flying gas motors (not glow) since 1946 when i got a madewell .49 for xmas in a 100 mph u-control racer.
The whole set-up cost $12.56 my dad made $35 / week.
Most people tune the high speed first but actually the low speed controls the basics of the high end...opposite of a nitro.
I been flying gas motors (not glow) since 1946 when i got a madewell .49 for xmas in a 100 mph u-control racer.
The whole set-up cost $12.56 my dad made $35 / week.
Most people tune the high speed first but actually the low speed controls the basics of the high end...opposite of a nitro.
01-23-2016, 04:28 PM
#22
"Most people tune the high speed first but actually the low speed controls the basics of the high end...opposite of a nitro."
That's because the low speed has outlets downstream of the venturi which are still exposed at higher throttle settings. As you get more experienced, any adjustment to the LS will require a compensation adjustment to the HS.
That's because the low speed has outlets downstream of the venturi which are still exposed at higher throttle settings. As you get more experienced, any adjustment to the LS will require a compensation adjustment to the HS.
