GEORGE_32

shadoow the fuel can that you have is RAPICON ( or was rapicon fuel for nitro engines?? :P:P:P:P)
i am thinking to keep mine.... ( for gas can ...... )
the spinner is carbon ??? and where did you bought it ?? i will start for breaking with 19x8 and then i will go for a VESS 20A

EXCELENT LOW IDLE... where are your low and high needles ??

(i have the same tach ... from sdshobby ... i will put it also in the cannopy... !!!!!
great job !!!!

airborne2.4

If you keep your idle down to 1500 rpm, say goodbye to your plane!!
As Jimeni said, "You will be in deadstick hell''.

shaddow

The fuel is gas mixed with 3.5% sintetic oil, Iuse Rapicon fuel for nitro engines, Ijust use this tank for gas mixture.
I use 95 unleaded fuel.
The Spiner is 3.5" carbon fiber that was bought from sdshobby.
Also the prop was bought from sdshobby (20x8) hawkmodel - I had to balance it a little.
what do you mean were is my low and high niddles, there are on the engine side facing to the right side if you look from the front of the airplane.
i have had to open them both for about 1/4 for the low and about 3/8 ~1/2 for the high.

airborne2.4 -for the fly i will increse it by the remote control trim to 1700~1800RPM or i am thinking to do a mix that will keep idling high while flying and a remote control switch that will lower the idle to 1600RPM for landing and taxing.

GEORGE_32

thanks!!! shadoow
I cant understand why the engine will quit if it has little idle..when it has instant response...but even if it has problem in 3d situation ...(and low rpm ..) well i think that everybody have a 7ch+ tx that has capability for idles..and thr cut off ////

shaddow

By the way i have checked the engine and put it on low RPM (1500) for about 5 min and than full throttle and the engine respond without and slight for a problem.
Did it for about 3 times or so..
So do do not think that it will fail in flight, well ifthe ignition wont fail to work lol.

Jimeni

Good luck!! Dont say we didnt warn you. As far as landing speed, you will find that the 20A prop is like a big dinner plate on the front of your plane even at 1800 RPM. Go to level flight at 1/2 throttle or even more, then go to idle, you will see the braking effect.

shaddow

Thanks for the info, well i will try to have it in about 1700RPM and try to see the effect, if everything will go as planned the Sbach 342 will have its first flight on Wednesday.

Jimeni

AWESOME!!! Good Luck!!! I'm still undecided which of my 2 planes to put the 35 on. Most likely will be the Cermark SS77 Edge 540.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_86..._1/key_/tm.htm

HelividD

My Feedback: (1)

Im curious guys, this engine seems to have pretty good power. How do you all think it would work as a replacement in an Ultimate 1.60(15 lbs)? It has more power than the dle 30, and I am just wanting to get something that is "not so extreme" I guess as a DLE 55. Not to mention, this motor is ridiculously inexpensive! It was suggested to me, to try a CRRC 45, but after checking the specs, this motor has more grunt to it?

Thanks..

awesome

My Feedback: (1)

Just thought i'd post a link for those looking for a Pitts style muffler for the MLD 35 engine , i just bought two, one for me and one for a fellow club member. Can't say how good the quality is , but they're cheap. Worth a try.
http://www.sdshobby.net/mld35-pitts-...5r-p-1958.html

Cheers , Leon.

Jimeni

I think 15 lbs will be too heavy for 3D, but ok for sport flying. I have not ran mine yet, but I do have the SPE 43, which this engine is suppose to match. It's in an edge 540 that weighs 13 lbs and is a great match. I will most likely put the 35 in it to lighten it up a little. 15 lbs is definately 50 cc range. My 89" extra 260 weighs 14.4 lbs, and I have a DLE 55 in it.

HelividD

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you Jimeni. This is exactly what I was thinking and pretty much solidifies my decision. I truly thank you for your response and great flying...

GEORGE_32

HEY ....thanks for the info i show them on sdshobby ,, and they look ... nice... do you think that it will be better idea the pitts mufler... ??? so to cut les in the cowl???

awesome

My Feedback: (1)

George-32 , depending on the model , you probably only have to cut for the stingers with the pitts muffler. As goes for quality , i don't know as of yet . I got an email from SDS saying they won't be able to ship them till after the Chinese new year holidays at the beginning of Febuary, so i have to wait unill then. I think it might benefit with some sort of strap from the unsupported end of the muffler to an engine bolt . I will post pics when they turn up.
Cheers , Leon.

Jimeni

Pitts style mufflers look better, sound better, and fit in the cowl better. Alot less cowl cutting. Remember the 2 down sides though. You will lose some RPM, probably 100 to 300. You will need to support the end opposite the mount on this style chinese muffler, or the weld will break fairly quickly on a muffler this size. Pitts mufflers are awesome, well worth the slight rpm loss.

GEORGE_32

so ,,,, i will keep the stock mufler....heheheheh
jimeni something more you mentioned that you welding the spark plug how you do it ??? any photos to see ...?? because i would like to do it before to put the engine also is it good to put a plastic tube to the cable that goes to the spark plug... ?? or leave it as it is ??
thanks!!!

Jimeni

I am not saying you shouldn't use a pitts muffler, I use them. Just letting you know about the 2 possible issues. Supporting the muffler is very easy. The RPM loss of 100 to 300 is a possible range, you may see less. I personally saw a loss of about 100 on my SPE43, none on my DLE 55 (using a slimline, not chinese), and about 150 on my MLD 28. I have read about people losing up to 300. The performance loss on the 28 made me switch back to stock, spool up was affected as well. It was almost as bad as having no muffler. I also added a picture of what happens if you dont support a pitts muffler, Chinese version. Learned this one the hard way. Suprising how slow the muffler floated down from 100 feet. LOL

The ignition issues I was refering to were on the MLD 28, and SPE 43, I dont think its an issue on the 35 ignition. It was where the spark plug lead shielding is soldered to the metal boot. Only a few strands were attached, and they started breaking loose. This caused the resistance in the ground to become so high, spark found the least path of resistance through the lead, instead of the spark plug. In other words, ignition was sparking in the lead not the spark plug. The engine will not run with this issue. See picture for where shielding solders to the metal boot. The other issue is in the pick up sensor lead connector. Pins were over crimped breaking wire strands. After time they all break causing intermittent contact. This shows up as running very rough, making you think its a tuning issue. Runs good sometimes and not others. Again these issues were on the other ignition units. I dont think I would tear them apart, unless you are having issues, after warranty, of course. That way Cermark can be aware of any issues.

I use spiral wrap to protect the ignition lead. Flexible plastic tubing would be fine.

GEORGE_32

thanks jimeni ...for the info....i decided to put the engine in the airplane instead of a workbench for the first hours ... i hope the vibrations of the engine working in low rpm for the first hours ...that will not create problem in my airplane..

Jimeni

In the airplane is the best way to break in an engine, unless you have anti vibration mounts on a run stand. As long as you balance your prop and spinner, you will be fine.

mshay

My Feedback: (3)

in about 3 weeks i will be buying the mld 35 and it will be going in my mx-s that i just bought from chiefaircraft. now all i have to do is get back to georgia from my deployment from afganistan and do some building.

i have read alot of you guys putting the engine in a sbach, but has anyone purchased the green and checkered mx-s from chiefaircraft? i may be the only one with this engine and plane combo, will post info along with doing a build thread. look for it in about a month and half.

GEORGE_32

hi!!! well i have bought also the mld 35 for my sbach....the reason was simple ....the airplane is tail heavy so the 230 grm that is heavier from dle is good to help to balance the airplane + is more powerfull ...now for your airplane.. you have to google..to find the mxs forums ... i believe that it will be ...in rc universe . or f ly ing gi a nts ...or somewhere else... its also ... a top airplane... but because dle is also .. good.. and proven engine... if you havent bought engine... first look the forums.... to see what the people.. say ....because it may balance with the dle 30 perfect... and the heavier engine... (mld 35 ) not to be the best choice....also ....mxs is lighter from sbach ...at about 1 lb...maybe little more
i was looking also ...for mxs before i end with sbach ...( new kid in the block ...) and the more new model ...mxs-r that is a newer model from mxs ...
as a choice .....stick in the 30 cc category ... ( dle 30 is more powerfull from mld 28 ) and mld 35 is more powerfull from dle 30
but a lighter airplane like mxs ( in comparision with sbach ) ..... if its not tail heavy .put it only if you want to have over over power ....)

awesome

My Feedback: (1)

Found something interesting the other night. I was bored and decided to see if i could find out the reason why both of the MLD35 ignitions i have are faulty. Bought 2 engines a while ago and one was for me , the other for a fellow club member. Both of us couldn't use the supplied igniton because of poor running and interfereance problems with our radios. I'm running Hitec A9 2.4 and my buddy is running JR 2.4 BTW.
Anyhow i sent one back , which was replaced , only to find the replacement exactly the same , poor running (backfiring) and radio interfereance. We have both retro fitted with RCEXL ignitions and the engines now run really well.
So last night i decided to remove the shielded spark plug boot and see if there was a problem causing the erratic running. What i found was there is no suppression resistor fitted to the centre conductor of the HT lead. The wire is soldered directly to the spring contact for the spark plug. What gives here MLD? All of the non resistor ignitions i have repaired boots on ALWAYS use a suppression resistor to help minimise radio interfereance. Are any of you guys having dramas with the stock ignitions , or were we just lucky enough to have bad ones. I'm quite happy with RCEXL ignitions as the rest of my gas engines run them with no issues , but am curious as to why the stock ignition has no supression resistor?
Aren't these engines designed to run a CM6 spark plug?

e-fly

Hi awesome,
Now there is the suppression resistor in the mld35 ignition, you can get new one from dealer to replace. BTW the configuration dimensions both of Y82 and CM6 have a little bit different, so Y82 recommended for use.

GEORGE_32

hi!!! i have the engine from december bought ....from sdshobby ... now ,....is there any way to determine if my boot has the resistor??... (also my MLD 35 has not!! any serial number of production ,,,
so as i understand i have to work the engine and if its not working well to ask for ignition replaced.....???
any one knows from when they changed the electronic ??or they send the engines as they are and waiting for problem arise ???

shaddow

Hello George If the ignition look like this (attached a link) then it does contain this resistor.http://www.sdshobby.net/mld35-igniti...4v-p-1981.html
the older ignition were more square and the new one is more rectangle (thinner and longer)