jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I will be checking the timing this weekend and if that does not get the vibration down to something I can live with I will then start the process of sending in the piston to Frank Bowman to get a new ring. After that I will messure the bearings and order some Boca Bearings and get some green loctite. I will get two 6-32 pressure fitttings and install the pulse line. Then I will assemble the engine and start it up again. If after all this if it still does not idle very well with out vibrating to much I will send the engine to Ron to check out.

robertwilkerson

Here's my post on page 7 and page 6 is the other method

robertwilkerson

The timing should help just check it run adjust till you get the smoothest idle. that's about all that can be done. If you do pull it apart take a look at the crank counter balance this will give you a greater understanding of why there is so much vibration what ever was poured in the casting became your counter balance weight.

RonsHangar

Jim,

Robert has some good suggestions and If you can adjust timing and have the test kit and method to measure the TDC settings, do this first. Try the different settings and retard/advance it about 1-2 deg to see if idle improves. If you have a timing light, record the setting and RPM at top end each time. that is about all I coulld do. The only other thing that you can do is photograph the crank's rear section. I thought of this... if there is little mass, it could be insuficient counter-ballance that would cause some problems. I have contacted CRRC Pro to let them know I am working on resolving some of these issues. I have also asked what all they changed between the new/old G26R. However, I believe they may be at Chinees New Year. All else, if the crank is different, I may take one of my stock 26Rs and "Part it" just to see if replacing the crank will improve performance, assuming it fits. This is my plan if you end up sending it.

soco32

Thanks for the info guys.  I have already done all of the clamp, hose, gasket checks for leaks.  I will get the parts and do the install.

robertwilkerson

The CRRC factory used to take dealer input more seriously and would make improvements to their products based on their feedback, personel changes at the factory in the last few months seem to have put an end to that. Over the last year I've been cutting out some of the things that cost us the most time with no benefit, the kinds of things that cost customers flying time.
This was a quote taken from Jetijody back in 2010 Flying gaints
Does any one out there know how to correct the counter balance I think that would be a dynamic balance? Might be a good side jobs with some of that skill ability. I am some what spoiled I have worked with glow engines for 35 years now and hard cranks and machined counter is a norm on those engines. of course the spin a little faster. Cnc maybe?

RonsHangar

Well, I have had good luck with them in the past, listening and exchanging dialog / data to insure what I was conveying is being translated properly. They, like us, are out to get the best of what we can for the money. If they are losing sales, as implied above, I believe they will do something about it.

I will have to do an RPM check on my 26R but I know it was something around 1900 or slightly less. More to come on that..

One more thought and I had posted this awhile back... Find "alcohol free gas!! Low octane. Use it! Also, Walbro does make repair kits. No need to buy new carbs if one is willing to dismantle one and thoroughly clean it out. Also, Use the fuel preservative! I do and everything still runs, even after it sets for a few months!!

robertwilkerson

The only place you can find that kind of fuel in Az is at an airport Avgas. The fuel here is around 18% I will not use any thing old when I go out I always purchase new but still sits in the tank at the station. BTW Ron: I went to the CRRC web site and hit the dealers tab and the only person listed was Maxford better let them know your sill doing business with them! Nobody didn't say I wasn't an SOB!

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Robert,

Can I pick up the Green Loctite at Auto Zone? I have only used the Red and Blue loctite before.

RonsHangar

Yea, I asked about that when I first started out. CRRC will list their main distributors and high volume deealers. No problem with my status. Check out my status with Sunbiz.org if there is any questions about my LLC.

The fuel stabilizer is more for your engine/carb. It helps keep the fuel freash in the can too, makes a big difference, I used it for years now. The carb does not gum up. Use recommended proportions of Stabil (red) from WalMart any auto store. Works great for lawn equipment too. Starts on first pull EVERY TIME. NOW, let's fly!!!

RonsHangar

Robert.

I am reading your comment again... If I understand you correctly, AZ has 18% alcohol in their fuel?? AND, high altitude operation - low air density. No wonder…

As an experiment, I filled my car with about 3 gallons of methanol alcohol (same as used in glow-fuel) mixed with gasoline, about 40-60% (tank was not full) just to see what the performance would be. Extrapolate my experience out to 18%... Man, you gotta use some type of additive to help those poor engines out! Remember the TAM model? Trans-Atlantic Model?? Read that article, should still be out there. Guess what was used to fuel that engine? Does Coleman ring any bells? Now, there is an idea! Don't be surprised if you see a thread on this in the future, with regards to the 26R. Side note… alcohol is a good additive to remove water from gasoline tanks.


Cheers!

robertwilkerson

Ron :I used the word 18% lightly some where that number sticks in my mind (what's left of it) Coleman fuel is white gas are you suggesting using that? JimI got the green from Mercury same company that makes the instant glue, you might want to do some web shop for it. I think on page one or 2 someone calls it out by name and number.

robertwilkerson

Jim: just did a web search and look like Ace hardware carry's it, number was 270 I think you will want to use the 680 and saw sears had it or check with you hobby shop that was were I got mine

Mercury Threadlocks

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Robert,

Thanks I was just doing to same think. We have and Ace Hardware here in Millington. I drop by and pick some up.

RonsHangar

Yes, Coleman is the "White gaas". Very clean fuel. Avgas is almost there with it. I will have to try it and see how the temperatures go, since I have telemetry set up on my Extra.

RonsHangar

Yes, Coleman is the "White gas". Very clean fuel. Avgas is almost there with it. I will have to try it and see how the temperatures go, since I have telemetry set up on my Extra.

Interesting factrs regarding gasoline and alcohol content: http://www.eia.gov/tools/faqs/faq.cfm?id=27&t=10

robertwilkerson

Give it a test some where I memory I remember some one using it can not recall if it was for small engines. If it works the next test will be were do we get the stuff food stores had it at one time I don't think I seen it since propane hit the market. OH there a thought whew I can see it now cylinders inside a fuse high pressure fuel line pumps removed from carbs. Amazing how your daydream run away with you!

robertwilkerson

Pulled from posts Unleaded gasoline is typically the stuff you buy at the service station to put in your car. It usually contains dyes (undyed gasoline is clear or "water white". Unleaded gasoline may also contain other compounds such as alcohol or ethers. White gasoline is just what it says: gasoline that is undied, unleaded and free of other compounds. This used to be sold for use in high performance two stroke engines (mostly outboard motors). Coleman fuel is different still, it is actually heavy naphtha, similar to lighter fluid. It is less volatile than gasoline, but more volatile than kerosene.
Naptha and Coleman fuel are one and the same,
here is the dope from the horses mouth.


"Although Coleman fuel and other camp fuels are routinely called white gas,
they are actually a naphtha. The two are very similar in characteristics.
Naphtha is refined one more step and is therefore considered cleaner. It
also has a slightly lower boiling point than unleaded gasoline, although it
is in practicality undetectable. Coleman fuel has some additives to help
prevent rusting of internal parts and facilitate long shelf life.

I feel confident in recommending it for other brands of stoves that burn
"white gas," but it would be prudent to check with the stove manufacturer.

Jim Reid - Coleman, Director of Public Relations "

RonsHangar

That's right! I do a lot of "thinking" and happen to have some coleman fuel to work with.

The fuel sticks in my mind where I read an article on Maynard Hill's TAM project. he used the fuel to power a modified 4-cycle 60 for spark, that powered his TAM-5 model. The lubricant that was used is still a mystery, however.

eclipso

Where are you guys going with all this mumbo jumbo? All this speak of fuel blabla has been gone through a million times. Use Google. In fact you can see long conversations between Jodi and I and others about this very subject. No need in polluting this thread with it. There should not be any surprise that these engines are low compression therefore low octane will be fine. No need in buying white gas either if you really want gasoline without ethanol you can now get it by the qt. At sears it is crafstman ethanol free fuel. These engines run great on 87. I do not deny that I had a very bad experience with my engine as well Robert. It took forever to figure out that it was all due to the pulse mod. If I would have done that first I probably never would have gotten the Bowman ring or fixed it the broken reed cage. If you prefer to stick to the facts then please do so that is all I'm saying. You and the other guy who bought your engines on ebay by who knows who got dealt a bad hand. Look at crrc website for crying out load. Your engines are knock offs or toss outs at the very least. I don't want to be mean but somebody's got to say it.

Vibes will always be an issue these are small single cylinder engines. Look at the old berilli engine they used to take what ever engine and then balance the cranks and they sold it as their brand name. Until someone with the equipment does that with a true 26r then it will be that way.

Also Robert please don't discount my skills with these engines it is becoming insulting and almost as if you are the one who knows all there is to know about these engines. I am the one after all who helped you figure out your issues with this engine. I have been doing engine work all my life and I do it in a larger scale as an a and p mechanic.

Av gas is only low lead if you get it in 100 octane also no alcohol. Good luck finding alcohol free 87. The only place you can get alcohol free fuel in AZ is a marina. By the way ethanol is used as an octane booster so if you think your getting better gas or better million age when buying the "premium" fuel at the pump think again. If your engine in your rc plane or your personal vehicle is not designed for or compressed for high octane fuel then you may be doing more harm than good and you may even experience power loss rather than the power gain most people think they'll get just because they paid more per gallon.

Sorry for the long post but I also wanted to mention that most of you guys got to start thinking outside the box. If you want to tinker with your engine and make it better then great but as I said before no engine is equal there is noting saying an engine can't idle at 2000 rpm. If your plane moves then you need to prop correctly. Mine actually idles at around 1800 sometimes lower and sometimes higher. When I am home and fly next I will do a video of my setup and ground run with tach and a flight.

Let's all just try to help eachother and keep these engines around maybe Ron can get crrc to step up and improve this engine.

robertwilkerson

"Also Robert please don't discount my skills with these engines it is becoming insulting and almost as if you are the one who knows all there is to know about these engines"

Well EXCUSE ME! I am at a loss of were did you come up with that statement? I do my best to answer questions, as I have learned them from (you) and others in this post, as well from other places. I was not aware the I had to check in with you before I answer someone's question. Or provide you with the infromation to approve first. I will do that as I please! I really think your getting a little and(on more than one occasion) extremely rude; [b]there is no excuse for rude[u]. let me EXPRESS again "there is no EXCUSE FOR BEING RUDE! Your information is always valued but I will not put up with your crap as I have grossly done in the past.

I have been a V.P. of a Bank the doesn't make me the Department of Treasury[/i] because you turn a wrench and string safety wire does not make you the official; CRRC Engineering department "and no information be posted about this engine without first being approved by you"!!!!!!!!!!!! Your head is getting a little fat

You have made demeaning statements in the past and I over looked them so knock it off and join the post.
If any thing you should be flattered that I have this information (to share) some of it was yours,.... there is no reason to bash my education in reality your bashing your self job well done! i TRULY HOPE YOU ARE EMBARASSED

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

DOES ANY ONE KNOW WHAT THE SIZE IS ON A RCGF 15 CC GAS ENGINE IS I GOT A SPINNER AND THE PROP NUT TO HOLD THE SPINNER ON BUT NOT THE RIGHT SIZE FRON THE DEALER 3 TIMES AND EACH TIME IT WAS WRONG IT CAME FROM BP HOBBIES WHO SELLS THEM SO NOW I CANT PUT A SPINNER ON BECAUSE THEY DONT HAVE THE RIGHT SIZE I HAVE A 12.00 SPINNER HERE AND CANT USE IT SO WHAT DOES THAT TELL YOU ABOUT THE DEALER

robertwilkerson

M4-4mm Bh hobbys

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

ILL CALL THEM ON THAT THEY SENT ME A [S732] SPINNER ADAPTOR 8MM X1.25 NUT DID NOT FIT>>> I TOLD THEM IT IS A [ VERSON 2 PROP SHAFT. STILL THEY CANT GET IT RIGHT

Ibcinyou!

My Feedback: (850)

Geezzz guys come on! 249 posts and counting! I normally stay off these threads due to what things might be coming back at me! I have not met a China made engine, i.e. crrc-pro, DLE, DLA, RCGF, JBA, NGH, PTE and this list goes on and on that in one form or another that doesn't have some kind of problem or issue at one time or another in its life expectancy, shucks I have had issues with American made engines as well! Lets just keep this all in perspective please! (Hobby) fun and enjoyable or at least should be, information and advise is good and needed but the personal innuendoes i.e. rudeness has no place. I have experienced first hand how these threads escalate into a big mess. Let’s keep this on the up and up please.