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  1. #151

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    I don't want to start a huge debate but the reed cage is either 1) a really old version or a knock off of the gp26r or 2) someone already did the mod. The problem with the first theory is that if you look at the manual or any other picture of a crrc gp26r is that it doesn't show a metal reed cage and infact it will show the boot style gasket. I know it is confusing but now you can see why crrc says that the ebay engine are not theirs. That in mind, if you go to carbon reeds you have to have rubber stops or they'll break. I doubt that the reeds not shutting all the way are an issue because mine don't seat all the way when I have the cage out but when it runs I don't see any issue. Do your self a huge favor and dont try to go from one issue to another so quick. Get the bearing issue or what ever fixed then do the pulse line mod. Try to get the reeds to sit flush but if it isn't perfect dont worry, as long as it closes when there is crank pressure it will be fine.

  2. #152

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Agreed just some future research re: reed valves, the bearings are not an issue I have ordered another reed assy from Ravin rc I will send pictures when I get them. You keep referring to Ebay and this engine not the case in fact the only engine I bought from Ebay is sold. I really think this was a Friday or Monday hang over engine and slipped by QC and should have been sold to the Ebay crew I still can't trust they are not doing just that my engine case in point. Soon as the new parts come in will test reeds sensor and idle. This is the reed cage that was shipped with mine. I finally received the parts and CRRC shipped the alum reed cage see picture no need to modify your reed cage just order a new $13.00 plus ship while your at it get the new case bearings and gaskets same price for shipping.
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    \"I know everything?\" (yeah right!)
    Robert

  3. #153

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    I have edited my last post found the problem gas line was loose and leaking that was why I could not get it to draw fuel. Parts for the pulse line have been ordered and will be installing this week end I found some 90 pressure tap and will be closer to the case hoping to clear the beam mounts. Ran about 45 minutes this morning bottom end some vibration could be timing smooths out mid range. What a change the Pennzoil makes the exhaust mess is all lot better you dont feel like your a lube jockey much cleaner burning. My next plane will use the YS 140 and starts 1st flip! Fuel cost might be higher but still cheeper than the rebuilt and down time I have had with this one.
    \"I know everything?\" (yeah right!)
    Robert

  4. #154

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Rob,

    Haven't heard anything from you in a while. How are things going? You ever get that 26cc to run well ? I sure hope you did. I figured I'd give an update and report that I have put nother 5 gallons through mine with the Bowman ring. I gotta tell ya that ever since I did the pulse line mod I have been able to tune and forget and the engine has gotten strong and strong. I switched back to the 18x6 Mej. and it will now pull straight out of a hover with unlimited vertical. This plane and engine combo was never this much fun and now I really like it. I know it wont last forever but I hope it lasts for another year or so atleast. I am going to get my first 100cc going and after that if I have to go out and get a 30cc airframe and engine it'll be ok. I look forward to hearing an update Rob.

    Take Care,
    Dave

  5. #155

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    After all the headaches I crashed mine on take off never got the chance to test it. It is now resting on the closet shelf with the other 30 engines. I wont be getting it back out until I find some work, Construction as it is..... will be a while. I went back to the stock of kits I have had stored and refurbished some I haven't use for a while. Corsair, Seafury, Kantana, OV 10 and my Chinese Stick with an OS 91 fx that has a Bowman in it fly's fast and allways get's the comments. The biggest problem I have had is going to the HS for fuel and have not had the broken $20.00 props,or the waiting for the repair parts. I have a Seagall Super Star that engine will be going in if I get around to it not feeling to good about the engine right now. When things pick up I will start the Skyshark p-40n 50cc I will be using the CRRC 50R in that (all ready fitted with the Bowman ) RETRACTS ARE $430.00 ALONE! So for the present time I am back to the trouble free life 2 stroke Nitro's ("I love the smell of Castrol in the moring!!") and electrics just love buying those batterys. Remember if it's coming at ya push the wing up!! If you see smoke and you don't have a smoke system land! And if your flying make sure it is not next to a topless bar there might be a problem if someone left the door open.
    \"I know everything?\" (yeah right!)
    Robert

  6. #156

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Here is the news I finished installing the pulse line and a great improvement, the test were only on the bench at this time. Low end is much better still need to dial in the low needle. Fuel draw greatly improved and feel once the carb is wet will hand start with ease. Top end had a lean tendency now runs up and stays there, before would lean once hot. The difference in the pulse line installation is I used a 90 degree fitting and flat file the ridge on the carb plate to clear the motor mount, then installed the tap just before the beam mount lug I will inclosed pictures. This mod is what was needed it now runs as good as the higher priced engines. Needless to say I hand built this one but if you have followed this thread will provide you with enough information to get yours running properly. Tach readings low side rough but constant 1850, High 6850 with a 18X8 Mas 2 blade. this is a fairly new engine with the cast iron ring so break-in is still a gallon or 2 away.Should smooth out and I would expect higher top end.

    Bowman rings Ringmaster46@msn.com
    Parts R/C raven
    90 pressure Dynamite dyn 2501 tread size 10/32
    Du-bro 8/32 pressure fitting #539 be sure to check the pack I had one that was not treaded.
    Green Lock tite on case to bearing
    Hey I'm unemployed and you want someone to do the work for you send me mail robertwilkerson@cox.net and I will give you a quote I am cheap!
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    \"I know everything?\" (yeah right!)
    Robert

  7. #157
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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    My engine is now well run in but I have not touched the needles, You would think sometimes when you shut the throttle it is going to stop it seems to be a point just above idle that it dosnt like.

    Any ideas what it might be, I am always reluctant to mess with the needles as I struggle with tuning these petrols, despite 30yrs using glows, just cant get the way they are meant to be tuned in my head.
    www.letterkennymodelflyingclub.com
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  8. #158

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    I have the same problem with mine seems if you lower the throttle slowly it reduces the stall tendency, the needle are much the same as glow with the exception you need a tach adjust high first then check low if it sounds rich (has a cough) turn it in and wait take a few seconds. If it speeds up and dies it is to lean if it slows down and rough to rich. (small adjustments 1/8 turns) I next take it to mid range and check the mid range for rich it will burble if rich at that point you have to compromise the idle to mid range setting. Check back and forth high and low and adjust again with a little practice you get it. The pulse line does have some repair as the fuel is a constant. This engine does not like to idle much less than 2000 it will run lower but has the idle issue when the throttle returns to low to quickly and bounces around. The there is always the timing 28-30 I have played with it and does provide a smoother response. Hope I was some help! Here is a web site that explains the adjustment better.http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm
    \"I know everything?\" (yeah right!)
    Robert

  9. #159

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Rob,

    I sure wished I would have seen your post last year. That is great news ! How has things held up so far ? Did you go back to work yet ? Boy I have put so many flights on mine in this time. I just went out and flew it again yesterday and it is still doing well. I can't say much for the airframe though. When I worked on my gp26r and modded it I didn't use new gaskets so other than possibly putting new gaskets and a tune up on the carb. everything is going well still. I think I am going to put mine on a pilot 30cc sbach or possibly a 20cc profile. These are very versatile engines. I love the fact that they are strong enough for a 30cc and small enough for a 20cc airframe. Anyway, talk at you again sometime.

  10. #160

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Funny I just took my out last week put it in a Seagull Superstar with a pitts style muffler ran a full tank trough it and no problems, the black residue that was a big mess is gone and with that muffler it sounds real good. It would be nice to get the idle down even with the new carb still acts like it wants to die then picks back up again. If it wasn't so much trouble I would try to blueprint the carb. http://www.webring.org/l/rd?ring=2fl...daptation.html it acts just as he mentions in his post problem is it is a fit a try and with all of the equiptment in the aircraft I will deal with it later. I did not go back to work, so I retired cut into my hobby budget but I have a large stock to work from and a lot of time to tinker and not having to chase the buck my sanity is returning. (at least I think so) I dont know if I had mentioned it in an earlier post but after I installed the pulse line I made a paper gasket to seal the one coming from the carb side just to be sure nothing leaks back? Who knows but sounded good at the time! Wish I would have waited and invested in a better motor but stuck with this and will refine on it as new information comes along. I like perfection and not willing to pay for it! Cheap bast*rd stay in touch.
    \"I know everything?\" (yeah right!)
    Robert

  11. #161

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    I did this once and it didn't help a thing just made my idle faster and I couldn't control it. Sounds like you are almost there but the needle adjustments are very touchy at least that is my experience. Try opening the throttle valve just a bit more and re tune. This engine will make you think it is running rich if you go by the needle turn count. I could tell you my needle setting sometime in the near future as this engine will probably be coming out soon. Glad to here you are doing good Rob, you keep in touch as well. Dave

  12. #162
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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    I have a question on the CRRC-pro GP26R. I have a one of these engines that I cannot get to start. I have flip it until my arm is so tried it hurts. [:'(] I have good spark from the RCXL ignition but the engine does not seem to pump in any full. I have primed the engine with fuel and I have only gotten one pop. I also have noticed when I prime the engine with fuel that fuel is coming out of the front bearing. If I have a fuel leak at the front bearing will that affect the vacume that is needed to pump fuel? I have not used a starter on the engine but I can try one if it will help.
    Jim Stanton
    Millington, TN 38053

  13. #163

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Has the engine ever ran? My experience of not starting has always been at the ignition. As you flip it over listen to see if you hear a popping sound inside the rcexl box if it pops its bad, or if you know someone who has one loose ask to borrow it. Usually damage is caused by to high voltage, try using no more than 5 Volts regulated the module will run cooler with that voltage. ( A fresh charged 5 cell nicad will register 6.3 volts) Next remove the pump side of the carb. that would be the side with the low speed set screw. check the screen for some dirt and if it is an old engine buy a rebuild kit http://www.ereplacementparts.com. check gaskets and the attachment bolt (screws) are tight remove carb inspect reeds (must be flat on the cage). If you have fuel leaking from front bearing the bearing is spinning in the case and will have a black mess with it that can be resolved by removing the bearing and using green locktite around the outside not in the bearing or races then reinstall.

    I would start at the ignition check timing http://www.cncengines.com/rcexelcdi.pdf they like 28-34 degrees from tdc a good way to check the ignition module is pull the plug hold the plug ( attach the cap) to head and spin the engine, if the plug fires every time it passes the hall sensor its usually good if it fires and misses its bad. keep the input voltage below 5 volts.

    Finally remove carb and on the throttle plate side there is a small hole inspect to see if that is blocked that is were the carb. pump pressure port if it is clogged the pump wont pump.

    I have always used a starter on mine as it is stubborn when they are dry and you can see if the fuel is being pulled from the tank. once warm they will usually start by hand. I takes some time for them to break in and gain full compression so when new they might need the starter to assist. make sure your fuel line has tight connections leaks will not let the gas pull use clamps or small wire ties.
    \"I know everything?\" (yeah right!)
    Robert

  14. #164
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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Robert,

    This engine is brand new and has never started. I ordered it off of e-bay form the manufacture. I know the rcexl ignition is good because I removed the plug and checked it for a good spark when the magnut passed the sensor. I will check everything you suggested on the carb. I will go by auto zone and pick up some green loctite and apply it to the front of the case and then reinstall the bearings. Once I have done this I will use my HD started and see if it will start. I have also decided to replace the stock plug with a NGK CM-6
    Jim Stanton
    Millington, TN 38053

  15. #165
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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    After checking everything that robert had suggested we cleaned out the carb and reinstalled it. The engine started pulling in fuel and we where able to get it to pop on the 7th or 8th flip of the prop, We then opened the choke all the way and on the third flip she started. We have run the engine at no more than 4000 RPM for 3 ten minute runs and she starts up pretty easy now. The is one propblem through. when the engine gets down the under 2500 RPM the vibration is just terrible.[:@] We have check the prop and it is balanced perfectly. Will the vibration get better as the engine get broken-in?
    Jim Stanton
    Millington, TN 38053

  16. #166

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Low end vibration is one of 2 problems,
    First is the timing, RCEXL recommends 28 I tend to believe that would be the starting point, really depends on the engine try adjusting the timing to see if that will smooth it out 2-5 degrees can change its idle there have been some reports the factory had shipped with the timing at 22. Use the timing wheel and check it two, maybe 3 times. Be aware the screws holding the hall sensor are very short and the case material is soft (screws strip if tighten to tightly) use some blue lock tile. They are hard to find.

    The second would be the needles here is a method of which I use to adjust: Start the engine allow it to warm up run about 3500 rpm for about 1 minute, open throttle all the way and adjust the high end first ( marked H)open till the engine just begins to 4 cycle then turn in (slowly) till it cleans up to highest rpm. Do not run at high for more than a minute as new parts haven't fully seated. Once you have the high end adjustment slowly close the throttle until it starts running rich again adjust the low needle turn clock wise to lean it may require to re adjust the high side if you can not get it to lean. The high and low needles are in play at mid range (low needle is away from the head) look closely marked L. take your time Continue to adjust until you reach idle speed. Idle is 2000 on the 26r (that is the listed RPM). The low end is a compromise between smooth idle and mid range. http://www.ehow.com/how_5650193_adju...arburetor.html

    The fit and finish is is less than perfect so crank counter balance is off a little but Gasoline engines vibrate one of the set backs we live with. try the above referenced and it should tame down. Good choice on changing the plug and I have forgotten to mention that. The easy way to gap them if you wish is to use a #11 blade (hobby knife). Allow the engine to break in about 4 hours some reports claim it takes 40 hours to fully break in! I am told that many are changing the piston ring to the Boman ring they are cast iron and the ring gap is closer for better compression I have one in mine as well as most of my ringed engines. You can email him at ringmaster46@msn.com I feel if you start the break in with that ring it will give you a broader power band after it has seated. It is not required and only my suggestion. Let me know if that helps!
    \"I know everything?\" (yeah right!)
    Robert

  17. #167
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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Robert,

    Thanks for your help. I am ordering a timing kit and my change out the ring to a Bowman like you suggested. I have some time because we are build a Balsa USA 1/4 scale Fokker DR-1 to put this engine in. Still have at least a month before the plane is ready for the engine.
    Jim Stanton
    Millington, TN 38053

  18. #168

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.


    ORIGINAL: jstanton

    Robert,

    Thanks for your help. I am ordering a timing kit and my change out the ring to a Bowman like you suggested. I have some time because we are build a Balsa USA 1/4 scale Fokker DR-1 to put this engine in. Still have at least a month before the plane is ready for the engine.
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    \"I know everything?\" (yeah right!)
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  19. #169

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    This is the wheel I use the one in the RCEXL kit is hard to see but the Hall sensor tester is great it beeps when the sensor goes past the magnet. No need to hook up the module just plug it in to the sensor lead!
    \"I know everything?\" (yeah right!)
    Robert

  20. #170
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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Where did you get your degree wheek at? I ordered both ignition test kits from Valley View RC. Got both kits for $26.00.
    Jim Stanton
    Millington, TN 38053

  21. #171

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    http://www.cncengines.com/rcexelcdi.pdf Use this link print the instructions cut out the template at the bottom glue to some ply or use 2 pieces balsa glued cross grain to keep it flat. for the pointer I soldered a piece of push rod to a spring type paper clip (the kind they use in large pile of paper) clip it to the cooling fin in the cylinder and adjust to 0 after to have found top dead center TDC. I remove the plug insert pen to the top of piston rotate till top dead center is located. Then all that is needed is to turn crank clock wise til the beep goes off. Read the degree at pointer. adjust the sensor to the proper location.
    \"I know everything?\" (yeah right!)
    Robert

  22. #172
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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Robert,

    Thanks for the link. I have printed out the insturtions and I will mount the timing wheel to a piece of lite ply that I have. The engine is getting easier to start and I have noticed a some black spots on the prop hub. I think we do I a small leak around the front bearing. Is it a big deal to replace or repair the front bearing?
    Jim Stanton
    Millington, TN 38053

  23. #173

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Replacing front bearing is simple, I would replace the front and rear with Boca bearings and shielded front. To remove the bearings use a torch and carfully heat around the case to bearing area (remove the crank). I use a wood dowel catch the front race (going through the rear of the case) and tap around it lightly use a glove to hold the hot case. The rear will usually come out with the crank. If not use the dowel through the front bearing. Use heat to reinstall and of course the green lock tile. (front and rear). The black is from the bearing spinning on the case. Mine was a big greasy mess until I lock tite them in now I get hardly no black. The cranks are very soft be careful not to scratch the bearing surfaces. The material the case is made from is very soft and heats more rapidly than the steel bearings making them a loose fit as result lock tite solves that. How long time will tell.
    \"I know everything?\" (yeah right!)
    Robert

  24. #174

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Hello everyone! I have not posted anything in a while. When I saw this thread, I thought I had better toss in my 2c worth. Firstly, I sell/service these engines. Before using any heat, try using a deep-well socket and a drill press to push out the bearings. It would take a little more heat but soft aluminum will melt if one is not careful.

    For those who wish to replace the piston rings, I tried this too. Be sure to measure the ring groove and provide that measurement to Mr. Bowman to be sure you get the proper size ring. The engine I show on my website, installed in the Extra 260 (be sure to check it out!), has a wider groove and I had to re-order the correct width. he will custom make you one but be sure you emphasize you need a custom size if needed.

    Ron
    Ron\'\'s Hangar

  25. #175

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    RE: CRRC-pro GP26R 26cc gas engine information thread.

    Good to hear from you Ron the ring I received from Frank fit perfectly, I ordered mine about 9 months ago if it makes any difference I don't know. I installed it on a new piston and cylinder head. I have used the torch on the case without problem but have done this action on I don't know maybe 20 engines and care must be taken not to heat in one spot or to hot to create case to distort but just enough to loosen bearings. Just warm enough to slide the bearing free.. Pressing the bearing out if you have the tools would be better and recommend that method if you are not comfortable using the torch. If the bearing has the lock tite on it you will need some heat! The oven method heat at 220 for 10 minutes will work also.
    \"I know everything?\" (yeah right!)
    Robert


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