Bi11ybuck

I am running a DLE-55 on my 50cc Pilot Extra 260. I have run a 22x8 Xoar prop on this engine thru 2 gallons of 50/1 mix using Lawn Boy ashless 2cycle oil and would like to change to a 22x10 Xoar prop at this time for 1 more gallon at the same mix and then switch to 30/1 full synthetic mix. All flying has been sport only. (Loops, rolls, etc.)

Questions:
1) Would I be changing pitch too soon for proper break in?
2) RPM change after changing prop to 22x10? (I am currently running 7100 with 22x8)
3) What can I expect for performance over the 22x6 when switching to 22x10?

Thanks for your comments on this. This is my first gasser and I am pleased so far, with both the DLE-55 and the Pilot RC Extra 260. A great combination.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Why mess with that oil, get some Royal Purple or Redline, mix at 50:1 and have at it.

I'll let Jody comment on the prop combo.

JOHNS3D

My Feedback: (5)

Bi, you will hear some comments here, first the lawboy and amsoil are the worse oil for our engines, so get rid of it as soon as you can. You can get Stilh hp ultra, redline or belray, those are the best oils out there for our engines. 32:1 for brake in and 40:1 the rest of the days for that engine.

About the propellers, DONT PUT rpms in the equation, why? cause you can have 3 22x8 from the same brand, model and the 3 of them can give you totally different rpms due the different wood. You can see 6700-7400 with 22x8 propellers. Play with different propellers and see if you like 22x8, 22x10 or 23x8. Personally i use 22x8 from day one and it does the job for me.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Change props now if you want, there was no reason to start with any particular prop for break-in purposes. I think you may benefit from some carb adjustments though, you should be spinning the 22x8 about 7300-7400 right off the bat, the 22x10 will have a little slower spool up, about the same pull out but noticeably faster speeds, can't say what RPM you might get if your engine remains out of tune.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Good call Jody.

It would help everyone that buys a gas engine if they read up and learn a little about them before they bolt them up and start running. Too many take a combination of information from other engine manufacturers and instantly apply that to a model not made or handled by the information sources they are using for break in, tuning, oil types and ratios, or prop sizing. If they are buying an engine from a source that does not have the information applicable to the product the buyer should locate a supplier that knows something about what they sell.

This is obviously what has happened with this engine and is simply a repeat of what has happened so many times before.

HunkaJunk

IMO you can switch to the new prop any time, I break all my engines in on full synthetic, for our model airplane application it just takes a little longer.
I have been running high performance 2 stroke gasoline engines on nothing but full synthetic for many years.



 

Whistling Death

What he said. For breakin Pennzoil for air cooled engines if want to use a mineral based oil. As we learn more and more about oils we find that a breakin oils aren't necessary, unless you want to get the breakin process over sooner.
I have read many, many posts about oils and the one's who's opinions I respect the most universally agree the Stihl, Redline, Belray are the best oils for these types of engines.

georgee

Well,currently I"m using my 6th DLe.My average rpm with 22x8 MenzS wood props is 7400-7600rpms with stock mufflers.I"m using 2 gallons of 1:32 Stihl mix as for break in,and the 1:40,1:50 mix.
These engines has an amazing prop ripping sound with these props/ very scale like/ maybe I can load up a short video to show you guys

frieshoo

My Feedback: (20)

Jody,

Have you experimented with the DLE-55 KS1060r combination. I'm using a 12" header (I know this is not a tune setup).

1 gallon
1000 ASL
89 degrees 100% humidity
JXF 23x8
peak 7400
flying 7200
awesome throttle response.

I have this on a AW 260.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

I put one on my AW Edge 540, it runs and sounds great. I don't know how people get the rpm numbers the post out of their engines though, I'm at sea level and get 6900 with the Xoar 23x8, I tune for peak and peak only on everthing I run.

STUKA BARRY

You must be flying in the rain with 100% humidity.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Nope, no rain, humidity about 70%, and you can be sure my tach is accurate.

frieshoo

My Feedback: (20)

I'm using the electronic tach that plugs into the ignition.

http://www.rcexl.com/news/Accessories/4.html

The new ignition has an extra female plug, so you don't need the Y-harness.

I'm guessing it's accurate.

If you are using a Xoar laminated, it will load more than the standard JXF. At 6900 a 23x8 Xoar laminated will pull stumps out of the ground.


And it was raining last week when I was flying

Bi11ybuck

Thanks guys! Lot's of good info. I am switching over today to 40:1 mix and a 22x10. I will let you know what i'm tacking on that setup. I will also put in a new NKG CM-6 and check the plug afterwards and take a photo to upload here.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Did you set the gap? Twenty thousandths if you havent

hanko

more lawn fag crap. you better run 10 more gsallons thru it and make sure your rings are good and stuck up before changing

Bi11ybuck

Yes I did gap it at .020. I ran it at the field today but was unable to fly due to high winds. It was tacking on the ground at only 6700. Yet it sounded really smooth and idled well at 1300 with a smooth transition from low to high. Not sure why I couldn't get 7000 out if it.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

6700 to 6800 is common with a 22x10 if it is a Xoar or something similar that loads the engine. It will run well though and go like heck.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Don't get hung up on a number....

aegis

Regarding RPM numbers on the ground, remember that different props unload differently in the air. I run a Xoar 26x10 laminated prop on an 80cc, and it really unloads in flight. Have also tried an NX 26x10 laminated, which doesn't unload as much.

Dan

Bi11ybuck

Here is a pic of plug after running it on current setup. How does it look to you?

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

You need to take a pic of the insulator....

HunkaJunk

I can't tell, the electrode looks clean but a better indicator is the color of the ceramic insulator just above the spark element. It should be a light brown or tan color, not blackish and not whiteish.

Bi11ybuck

Is this a better pic?

pineislandaeromodelers.us/copper/displayimage.php

Jezmo

Just as an FYI the place to "read" the mixture on the plug insulator is not near the tip but rather at the very bottom where it curves out to the shell. You MUST use a new plug AND you must cut the ignition while at full throttle in order to get an accurate reading. It may take as much as 5 to 6 mins of running to get enough color to get a good reading. You're looking for a black soot ring that extends approx. 1/8" up the insulator from the bottom. Not easy to do but it is the only "right" way to do it. Pe has a thread with pics showing how it should look after the metal shell is cut off. If the plug is hot enough the end of the insulator can be snow white and the mixture still be quite rich. On the other hand the mixture can be too lean and the plug too cold and the insulator will be soot black at the end.

Here is a link to Pe Reivers site showing how to "Read" the plug with some good cutaway pics.
http://www.prme.nl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10