racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

already tired that.. yes it is seated

I have tried it both ways by bending the tab

it does the same exact thing both ways

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The fuel from the pump has to come up that passage way where the needle and seat is to ever get into the throat of the carb and into the engine.

Tx_RcFlyer

My Feedback: (7)

It's seated against a bunch of varnish and gunk. Take it apart and either soak it in some carb cleaner or use the spray cleaner and spray down where that needle seats to get all that varnish and crap out of there. I just went thru this with my G38 and had the exact same symptoms you described.

racelikustolit3k

My Feedback: (73)

ITS A BRAND NEW CARB

there is no junk in it and im not an dunce!!!!

there is a crack in the case on the new carb, straight from horizion.. so back it goes again

the crack goes from the small hole where the fuel enters the fuel pump (just on the other side of the fuel line barb) side straight the throat

problem solved

spaceworm

Please, where is the documentation citing that the blue acetate diaphram does not pump enough? And, what is "fuel overhead" and it's impact on proper cooling.? I have never heard this before. I am running one on my G23, my Craftsman blower and my Weedewater trimmer.

This is a serious request from me. Please cite your information sources.

Thank you very much.

Sincerely,

Richrad

The Ghost

[link=http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/]HERE[/link] is the link to setup and adj for all Walbro carby models.

Cheers

AA5BY

The documentation that I speak of is a chart that has been posted on this forum a couple of times that shows the characteristics of the various Walbro pumps and it list the acetate pump as the weakest. I don't have a link to that chart but a search should find it without much difficulty.

One of the threads that I posted with my problem is at

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9746155/tm.htm

There was another thread where the discussion of fuel overhead took place.

I'm cramped for time right now but will reference it to you later if I can find it.

You will find that current G-20s and G-26s are fitted with the teflon pump.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Any of the diaphragms will work just fine..

BOB275

OH THIS IS GOING TO BE REMEMBER FOR A LONG TIME TO COME!
I took the good carb off the other 26cc I have (identical except for the wt #. Mounted it on the ZENOAH
and it would not start. Damn not again! This has got to be something with the spark. Got another CDI
that was on the 26cc and put that on the zenoah and the 26cc carb STARTED RIGHT UP. Took the
26cc carb off and installed the original WT811, BANG IT STARTED RIGHT UP and tuned it up. Runs great!
OH HAPPY DAYS ARE HERE AGAIN!
Learned a lesson on not to trust what you got laying around unless it's brand new.
Gentlemen thank you for so many wonderful hints. Bob

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Pleased to hear the matter is resolved.

spaceworm

Many times many years ago, I rebuilt many automobile carbs (remember those), and when that did not solve the problem changed plugs, and or plug wires, and or points and condensors (remember those), and THAT was the problem almost every time. Then hopefully I had not screwed up the carbs so they would not work right ever again.

But then early fuel injection was not always without blame (remember VW and the "Porsche" 912?), nor were early capacitive discharge ignition systems (homebuilt).

Sincerely,
Richard

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Before computers, engines were more simple. You could tell by ear what the problem was.

They are simple now if you have a device to read the computer. The OBDII requires a reader where with the early computers you could pull up the codes with the ignition switch.