ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

On the bold, the tech guys will have you convinced there's a potential. The bunch of guys that are actually out there running this setup (for the last few seasons) will tell you that it works fine, no issues. That's it in a nutshell. It's your call to make from there....

sandyjain

Bill I never said That I do not use an optokill - I said I use an RcEXL one.
I use Life batts. That have 2 Futaba /JR type plugs. 1 goes to the Rx switch and the other to the CDi switch.
The out wire of th CDi switch has the diode.
The diode wire of the switch then goes into the optokill and then onwards to the CDi.
Hence the battery is isolated from the CDi and so is the Rx.

2.4 Ghz systems are inherently less prone to interference.

I use the 1 battery system for only upto 20cc engines/ models. Beyond 20cc or models with digital servos, should be run with 2 batts. May be even redundant/ 2nd battery for the Rx.

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

In your message dated 8/10/12 you did not mention any type of optokill...

"A dedicated battery is not necessary at all. I run my smaller gassers - dle20 - with just 1 batt feeding the Rx n CDi.
What I like to do is to have 2 swithes....1 fr Rx n other fr CDi. In the wire fom the switch to the CDi I attach the diode.

And yes this works for Life only. for LiPo you will need more diodes, in which case an Ibec may be better.

But I will highly reccomend Lfe for CDi as they give a constant voltage over 80% of their life."


In the end I was just wondering if there any RF issues doing that. I know there are the types who HAVE to use all the new devices just because.

I prefer the KISS system anytime I can!

I do not fly 2.4 ghz (which is why I was asking about RF noise) and I see no reason to change at this time. And with some club members making the switch, there is even less reason (for me) to spend the $$. I have been flying since '87 and only crashed twice due to radio issues. Both times my fault, not the radio itself. Crashed a lot of times over the years actually! lol

As I'm not aiming for a 3D type plane for my 20, i will probably run separate batteries and not worry about the extra weight. On my DLE30 powered Cap, I plan on running two batteries for the RX and one for the cdi.

I do like the idea of using a Life battery with a diode (or two) for the voltage drop. Nice and simple!

Thanks,
BIll S.

aerobear

My Feedback: (4)

Depending on your choices and sources of switches and batteries the price may start be be comparable although I don't see it being cheaper. I make my own packs to get the type and number of wires/connectors I want. It also happens to be cheaper than a commerically finished pack. The price of the Ultra IBEC has dropped quite a bit since I last looked at it. If the Ultra IBEC has features that you value highly then the price may be irrelevant. Even though I look for great values I am far from penny wise and pound foolish. I have spent lavishly on RC stuff when I thought it was worth it. Having been frugal were it makes sense makes the occasional lavish purchase much easier.

RiverLarry

+ 1 buy cheep by often !!!

The IBEC are great !!!! a 2000 ma NIMH about 3 15 minn. flights !!! and could make 4

kill suitch and a step down for IING 5.4 V

aerobear

My Feedback: (4)

Cheap and inexpensive don't mean the same thing. Those that don't understand the difference are an easy mark.

nomadmariner

I will take the ibec for my gassers I use diodes often for other applications but prefer to fork out a few extra dollars for a quality item that will eliminate any questions. Just my own preference and I readily concede that others have their own opinions but I work on the fact that these are heavy fast flying missiles and I feel more comfortable with the ibec in my planes.

raydar

I bought a ibec for one of my planes, nice product and works well but I wont buy another, why, because simply I have another three gassers running a single homemade life pack for ignition and rx with no stepdown for rx and I have had zero issues. I am on 2.4 ghz..

I understand the ignition does not require any more than 4.8v, that I will not get a better spark, my ignition will fail prematurely bla bla bla.

If worried about the 6.6 volts then as someonehas said fit a diode, been there done that too, works well for a 0.7 volt drop, but I dont even bother doing that now.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

I just like it because it works great. Gives a constant 5.2v to the ign. I love the LED & the optikill. Most of all I like the reliability because im not a real techno guy. I personally will pay a few bucks for insurance on my planes. Ive had bad luck all my life trying to do stuff cheaper, that eventually causes me a lot more money in the long run.

But thats cool for the guys who have the know-how and can-do, to do stuff like make their own batt backs and voltage regulators.

Can you use more diodes to reduce the voltage more? Id want to drop it to less than .7. That would only really bring the actual voltage of a LiFe battery down to its advertised 6.6v.

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

using 2 diodes in series, for LIFE batteries on ignition service, seems to be the norm.

T-man49

sandyjain

Post no. 5646 of 8/10/12?
2ndly Bill if you have a radio that can take a FRsky module- try that. I use it on my Futaba 9 & 10 C. Works like a charm and most inexpensive way to 2.4 . Tx module with 8 channel Rx costs about usd 60.

LiFe batts come down to 3.3V/ cell within few min. Or seconds and remain at that for 80%+ of their life. You can check it. So a 2S life is actually a 6.6V output not 7.2 going to 6.6. 1 diode is fairly sufficient.

My double switch with fuel filler, 2100 2s Life batt, optokill with LED and the diode cost less than USD 50 landed.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

X2 on the bold (including price!). 6.6v within minutes once you get a load on the A123/LiFe. Confirmed watching Hitec A9 flight pack telemetry.

SpinnerRow

I only have one switch. Two ouputs on the switch. One to the RX, one to the optikill.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Sorry Spinner, my mistake. -Al

acdii

Well, I didn't find anything wrong with my connections, I also found my voltage regulator does work. When I had first installed it in the 4* after pulling it from the wrecked Dewey I thought it was not working. I reinstalled it yesterday, checked all the connections, and started up the motor.  I ran it for 5 minutes at all throttle settings, without the wing on, picked up the fuse and held it at various angles, except for straight down, that would kill it for sure. Not once did the ignition burp.  

WindGap

My Feedback: (3)

Which of the two jtec pitts muffler would be quieter?

SpinnerRow

I've got both the compact wrap around pitts and the regular wrap around pitts. The bigger one makes the motor sound more like a DLE 30 - more deep and resonate tone and the compact sounds about the same as the stock muffler but takes 300rpm off the top end. I had to use the compact pitts in a World Models P-51 to clear the cowl and it worked well. I plane to try the Valley View wrap around Pitts next.

acdii

mine still sounds like a chain saw even with the PITTS muffler.    Guess I better go find some Husquavarna stickers for my plane.

acdii

OK my flying weedwacker is FINE!  Flew it for about 15 minutes tonight, and it flew great.  Dang it, still have half a tank of gas left though.  I'm finally getting some flight time on my DLE20.

Falcon32

Hi Guys
I have a question on the DLE 20.
Mine runs great, good idle, transition and top end, but it's a bit sluggish to start first time of the day.
What's your preferred method of starting this one? Choke position, throttle position etc.

Thanks

acdii

Full choke, 1/4 throttle, and watch your hands.  Once it pops off let it run a little bit before taking off the choke.

FSFLYER

My Feedback: (12)

I was having trouble starting mine before the first flight of the day. Took something like over 60 flips to get it to pop with the choke on. I think it just doesn't have a strong fuel draw on choke. I have a fueling "T" in the line from the tank to the carb. I now fuel the tank until it spills a little bit out of the vent. Without removing the fueling line, I close the choke and with the ignition off, flip the prop 4-5 times. Disconnect the fueling line, turn the ignition on and flip with the choke on. It usually pops in a few flips. open the choke and its starts withing 4-5 flips. Nice thing is it sits sometimes over an hour between flights....it will usually start with one flip...no choke. Great little engine! I think my starting problem was that when I removed the fueling line I introduced air into the line. By choking with the fueling line still connected seems to be a simple fix. Would be interesting to see if this works for you too.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Check your choke plate to see if it's really sealing the the carb throat properly. You may have to loosen the screw and let it recenter. While you're at it, seal up that hole in the choke plate. Solder works good, but there are other solutions as well. It doens't need to be there for our application. That done, then you should be drawing some fuel when the choke is closed....

acdii

Electric starters work wonders on the first start of the day.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Hey Spinner. What size P51 did you put it in? Ive got the .46 size and I am running a Thunder TIger .61 Pro in it. I love that little plane (Miss America).  I picked it up from a guy getting out of the hobby for $100 bucks. I know guys put big motors in them for racing. I actually thought for a second about putting a DLE20 in it.  It would land at 1000mph, but it would be a blast in the air!

Jeremy