Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Are synthetic oils a step back in quality and features?

acdii

A good synthetic is superior to a dino in many ways. The reason you don't use them during break in is because they are so good. You need a little friction for the parts to wear in, and a good synthetic is too slick for that.  Same reason in a glow fuel and new engine. If you read the recommendations, they say use a Castor blend, not full synthetic for break in, and can go full synthetic after break in.

RiverLarry

W8YE I give up there is that 40 or 50 to 1 again people need to read the book that camewith there DLE

INBIGBLACK LETTERS it states 30/1 most of use 32/1 with no problm %#$^&^% R/L

JODI is turning over in his grave !!

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

Jodi died?

Ernie Misner

No, probably just a reference that he doesn't work at Valley View or post here anymore. That makes the info he posted even more valuable.

RiverLarry

Not realy died just not post any more TOBAD he was a welth of INFO !!!

He is deff MIST !!!! I wish I NEW 1/2 the thingh that he was up on

I had a chance to talk with him on the phone what a EYE open er verry nice person

he would not be EZ on this oil thing with people he would tell it like it is !!! R/L

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

Jodi didn't die, but that never stopped him from believeing that he had a halo.

armody

My Feedback: (10)

Hello Ernie

The Yak 54 120 I bought from Nitro planes and I paid around $140 with shipping almost a year ago

http://www.nitroplanes.com/ni20moya1206.html

Construction ain't that bad.

My Christmas gift is gonna be this additional plane which is gonna be second gas plane with DLE20 since I have kissed glow engine planes goodbye

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/SEA2580

I hope I'd get a good deal on it

Thanks

Mody

armody

My Feedback: (10)

So the Final Verdict deliberated is

DLE20, oil ratio is 30:1 or 32:1 that's the whole truth, nothing but the truth!

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

AMEN.

Ernie Misner

Good lookin planes there mody. Pheonix Models make a nice 20cc size (Edge or Extra?) also. Have you looked at the XYZ for your next 20cc?

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

I like the price, but it weighs more than the DLE and comes (from the pictures) without a muffler.....

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

It comes with the muffler.www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/xyz-20cc-gas-engine.html

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

From their website in print: Includes: " Rcexl electronic ignition, muffler, spark plug, throttle and choke arms, engine mount, and manual", but earlier it is stated: "This engine comes with a Rcexl ignition, genuine NGK-CM-6 spark plug, composite engine mount and long throttle and choke arms. "

The pictures don't show one and I'm a skeptic <g> when it comes to cut and paste.....

Ernie Misner

Hey tailskid, it has the same exact weight as the DLE. We put them both on the scale at Valley View. Not only does it come with a muffler, you get your choice of muffler orientation for your plane. It also comes with a genuine Walbro carb and RCEXEL ignition with proper curve. It even comes with a motor mount and spinner adaptor! Quite the deal while this introductory price lasts.

Ernie Misner

Mine came with all that and more, just a lot of free stuff at this price.

gade600sdi

My DLE 20 has not been running as perfect as I like, so I checked a few things over and one of them was ignition timing. The book says 28-30 degrees BTDC for the Rxcel ignition. So I made up my own degree wheel and pointer with a piece of solder and found TDC which was very easy and checked my timing. It was 38 degrees BTDC. I was able to loosen the screws on the hall sensor and slide it to the left within the slots and then re-checked the timing. Now I got it to around 32 degrees BTDC. Still not the correct specification, but much closer. Since I flew it pretty good at 38 for almost a year, I'm thinking the 32 degrees is good enough for government work at this point without enlarging the slots in the hall sensor.

Then, I decided to run the engine. To my amazement, it hardly started, then once started would die quickly on acceleration. I have 100 flights on this motor and I know how it runs and reacts, so right away I noticed a problem that seemed directly related to my timing adjustment. So I richened the L needle about 1/4 turn and it started easy and wouldn't die on rapid acceleration, just like before.

So my quesitions are:

1. Moving from 38 to 32 BTDC did I advance or retard the ignition timing which one?
2. Should the adjustment in timing the direction I did make my low end that lean, that was a pretty large adjustment I made on the needle?

acdii

Yep I got the XYZ too, what surprised me the most was how quickly I got it, came a week sooner than I thought it would.  The one thing I dont like about it, I wont get to try it out until the plane is done.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

YOU ARE TURNING THE ENGINE BACKWARDS WHEN CHECKING THE TIMING! You have retarded the timing to the point where the engine will barely run.

The ignition fires when the the magnet leaves the sensor. This can happen in either direction. If you turn the propeller backwards from the direction that the engine runs, your degree measurement will be off by the width of the sensing field of the ignition sensor.

With the sensor on the casting seam, the advance is in the 32-34 degree range. That is about all the advance the engine can stand.

gade600sdi

w8ye,

No I am not turning the engine over backwards!!! I rotated the crank the way the prop rotates counter clockwise. Dont know how you could have possibly derived that comment from what I wrote above but your statement is not correct. I know how to measure the timing its not that hard.

I am very confused, however at where to set this thing. I have it at 32 now, and it was at 38. The manual says 38-40 and you can adjust it from 37-41. Based on everything I have read, everyone says 28 degrees is where they should be at, so it seems I have made a proper adjustment. I just dont know why the DLE 20 manual says this setting and every other thing I read (even the Rxcel instructions )says to set them at 28 degrees? Is this DLE 20 a different ignition than the 30, 55 and others?

This is from the DLE manual for the 20cc:

Ignition Timing Adjustment
The ignition timing is preset on the DLE-20 at 38-40° before Top Dead
Center (TDC). The ignition timing can be advanced or retarded by
loosening the (2) ignition sensor Phillips head screws and sliding
the sensor to the full extent clockwise (41° advancing the ignition)
or counter clockwise (37° retarding the ignition). Be sure to retighten
the Phillips head screws after adjusting the ignition timing. It is
best to attach the sensor with the screws centered in the slot as a
starting point.
Advancing the timing causes combustion to occur earlier resulting
in higher performance of the engine. However, advancing the timing
also causes higher engine temperatures and can cause premature
wear of internal engine components.

According to this, I have just adjusted it out of specification, however, all the other posts and information I can find says 28 degrees?

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

Just thought here.. consider that the DLE 20 normally operates at a higher RPM (sweet spot that is) than a typical 40cc and up engine, one would think it would want a little more total advance. Thinking further about it, that may be why that annoying low speed curve was built into the ignition, more retarding for a good idle on the low end. Hmmmm.

I recently checked mine and it was right at 30 degrees and ran well, so I left it there.

BTW, I wouldn't take putting that sensor on the casting seam to the bank. Variations in the machining of the hub keyway and placement of the trigger magnet may throw that off. I wouldn't trust the manufactures machine work further than I could throw it.

gade600sdi

I agree fully, the seam means nothing and may not work in all instances. You have to do it the right way with a TDC gauge, dial indicator, and degree wheel. Mine was definately at 38 BTDC and I flew it that way all summer so I'm hoping 30 will work better.

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

I've since switched my ignition out to one without the low RPM "step" to compliment the type of flying I do. I don't think it idles as low as before, but at least it idles when I want it to now which was what I was looking for.

gade600sdi

Did you change over now to the DLE55 ignition now without the idle "step"?

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

No. I used one I ordered from HK for an RCG 50 engine. I'm 99% sure it's the same one used for a DLE 55.