sparky4lawndart

My Feedback: (10)

drube

Wow, that looks cool!

JohnB96041

+1

sparky4lawndart

My Feedback: (10)

http://youtu.be/UbpNfCqUwR8

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Sparky,

What does it weigh and cost?

drube

Awesome! What kind of batt are you using for the starter?

sparky4lawndart

My Feedback: (10)

It's $149 for the starter and the start controller from MileHighRC (great guys) http://www.milehighrc.com/EME_E_Start.html

with a 3s lipo, controller, and starter, both my planes gained exactly 29onces. mind you this is for the DLE55... the one I'm machining up now for the DLE20 will be slightly less heavy (5 to 8oz lighter). Adding a pound and a half to any plane is a big deal for any 20cc plane but I can't wait to see my Fokker DR1 with one.

I'm using a $12 Hobby People 2200Mah 3s lipo. as tested I got more than 30 starts out of it showing it off that day and never got below 3.95volts on any of the cells.

JohnB96041

Now this email link is taking me to posts on page 264 when the last posts are on page 265. Same problem and I would like some suggestions or a resolution to this problem. Thanks.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Considering that I had to add 24 ounces to the nose of my GS P-47 arf to balance, this would have been a nice alternative.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Since the RCU update, I haven't gotten ONE email link that actually took me to the most current "last post", most of the time not even close. I think it's a undocumented feature/enhancement.

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Same problem here....sometimes I go to Page 1, post # 1 other times Page 15 post # 24 and other times right to the last post.....I would have thought by now they had that bug worked out - guess not.

Captain Terrific

My Feedback: (2)

ahicks,

Thank you. I'll take a look at the ignition module this weekend and report back. I really doubt its a heat issue because it does this the first time I start it before flying it. But I will try and richen up the LSN. I will not be flying this weekend.....other stuff to do.

Dave

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

I recently rebuilt my DLE 20 - the needlebearing on the crankcase was going (exhibited by a loud squeaking sound when running). (once I got it apart the needle's just fell off the bearing.) Also changed the two main bearings. Engine ran great for a couple of runs, but now it dies at top end, maybe even middle throttle. I've opened the HS all the way up to 3 turns - its' better, but still dies at WOT. So sounds to me like it's being starved for fuel. Took the tank apart tonight in case the tank filter klunk was clogged - wasn't, but changed klunk anyway. Also found a kink in the overflow line, got rid of that. But the engine still dies at 1/2 - 2/3 throttle. So next try - carb? Could it be a clogged filter? Any other ideas? Factor needle settings are L 1.1, H 1.5 - can't remember how mine was set up before, but I think I should still be in that ballpark, right?

btw - The engine runs fine at idle (which was where I USED to have problems...)

I'm taking the carb apart tomorrow night - maybe a clogged filter? I'm just frustrated I can't fly this plane tomorrow. Any other possible causes? Could the timing be off, i.e., Hall sensor slightly out of place?

Thanks in advance.

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

When you take that one screw off on the carb to see the fuel screen.... any tiny particle in there will make all the difference in the world.

I use compressed air from a bottle (get at Office Depot) but be sure to cup the area with your other finger because if that screen comes loose with the compressed air it may be hard to find, for example dropped on the floor or in the grass..

Last weekend, at an event, we tested some props on about 5 different profile planes with the DLE20. Falcon 17x6, Xoar 17x6, Xoar 17x6 Laminated, Falcon 17x6, 17x6.5, 17x7 all carbon.

They guys loved the Falcon 17x6 carbon the best. Average RPM went from 8500 to 9000 and it was grabbing the air real well. Throttling was much more crisp when the better pilots were, for example doing low-high alpha rollers... one even said it reminded him of the spool up of an electric motor.

Two drawbacks on the Falcon carbon. The trailing edge of the prop is fairly sharp so hand propping should be with a glove. The other drawback is the 48 dollar list price.

Some ground rpms as reported by one pilot.
Xoar 17x6 - 8580 RPM's
Xoar Laminated 17x6 - 8540 RPM's
Falcon (Wood) 17x6 - 8400 RPM's
Falcon (Carbon Fiber) 17x6 - 9060 RPM's
Falcon (Carbon Fiber) 17x6.5 - 8850 RPM's
Falcon (Carbon Fiber) 17x7 - 8640 RPM's

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

Last post, elevation 679 feet, temp about 78 degrees, winds 3 mph. (pressure and humidity unknown)

allans

My Feedback: (11)

Save yourself and the engine some grief. Send it to Tommy at Valley View RC.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

microdon2,
My bet is you're on the right path assuming fuel starvation. It's just a question of finding the restriction and or/air leak (sucking bubbles). Just like to add a little confusion to that assumption by the fact a low ignition battery, or one that's fully charged but no longer able to supply sufficient wattage, might act the same way? Best of luck tracking it down quickly! -Al

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

One more thought.

Did you use anaerobic sealer on your bearing install? If not, you could be pulling air from the front bearing.

Just a thought.

R

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Wrongway - Did not use anaerobic sealer. (probably cause I didn't know about it). Where would I get the stuff? Valley View?
Ahicks - interesting point about the battery. It's a 4.8v NiMh, so I don't think it could be overcharged. If the carb inspection \ cleaning doesn't help I'll look at the battery next.
Allans - Send it to Valley View for this? No offense, but, after rebuilding it from scratch I'm hoping I can find a fuel flow problem on my own! And what better way to learn than to do it your self? (Besides = I can't afford to have other's fix all of my engines!)

Mike D

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

Yamabond can be had from a motorcycle shop

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/yamalube.../27/yamabond/1

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Thanks.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Mike, the point regarding the battery, especially an NiMh, is a failed battery can occasionally show as fully charged when looking at a voltmeter. When you put a load on it though, the voltage goes to nothing! Not enough power to light a light bulb? Something like that might have enough power to supply the ign. module while idling, but not enough to supply power at higher rpm - which requires more power than when at idle? This engine will then act for all the world like one with a carb issue.... but it's actually the ign. module in a "fail safe" or "limp" mode, telling you to land me now!! -Al

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

Also if an air leak is suspected in the front bearing... shoot some Windex on the seal from the outside and see if when running the engine it appears to suck it in... We always checked vacuum leaks that way, especially if you can get the Windex to bubble up first.. may be able to tell something... be careful when running an engine and looking at the area around the prop.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Swapped out another 4.8v - didn't make a difference. Next - the carb.

So it turns out the carb screen was VERY dirty - pretty much completely blocked. I happen to have a new screen and just tested the engine - now it roars like a hungry beast!! Wasn't going to fly tomorrow, but now I might HAVE to. Love it when you find the cause of a problem.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Always great to KNOW what was causing something... a suggestion - if not already doing so, use a very good filter/clunk in your gas JUG (I use the ceramic style or the Walbro felt) in addition to the filter klunk in your tank. Doing that really makes it almost impossible to contaminate your fuel supply system in the future.