DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
#6751
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I was thinking the 17x6 as a starting point because it would give closer to a scale flight for the first few flights and it's an easier prop to get the plane slowed down for landing. But hey, if or170b is used to flying fast, then by all means start off with the a more zippy prop.
You probably already know that the manufacturer suggested props are 14x10, 15x8, 16x6, 16x8, 17x6, but I've heard of a few running 17x8 and 15x10s.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...best-prop.html Here's an old thread with the same prop question. Kinda funny, back in 2011, Al and I both recommended 17x6. It was a general question, not specific to the P51.
You probably already know that the manufacturer suggested props are 14x10, 15x8, 16x6, 16x8, 17x6, but I've heard of a few running 17x8 and 15x10s.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...best-prop.html Here's an old thread with the same prop question. Kinda funny, back in 2011, Al and I both recommended 17x6. It was a general question, not specific to the P51.
Last edited by mach2; 03-16-2015 at 10:23 PM.
#6753
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Thanks everyone I have installed a 16x8 (as that is a prop that I have) I will begin there! This little DLE seems to run as good as its bigger brothers I am happy so far on the initial breakin runs.
#6754
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I have reviewed many (sorry not all) of the forgoing thread pages and seen numerous issues with controlling idle and a stepped ignition timing. For all of you recently purchasing this engine, have these issues been resolved?
Thanks,
Bedford
Thanks,
Bedford
#6756
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I'd agree, and I'll add that most problems any more are directly attributable to inexperience. If you haven't flown gas yet, there's a learning curve involved, no matter how much flying you've done. Best advice would be to accept that, and have a little patience until you get used to handling it. Not hard, just different....
#6759
I bought a DLE20 about two and a half years ago and just now am mounting it on a reinforced Big Stik .60. I had not noticed previously, but there are no holes in the throttle and choke arms. That seemed a little odd and I called Hobby Services to ask about it. As usual the tech person I spoke with was friendly, helpful, and supportive. He looked at a current Walbro carb and confirmed there were indeed holes already drilled in the throttle and choke arms. Even though my DLE20 has been sitting on the shelf and is two and a half years old, I am being sent a new Walbro carb to replace the one on my engine with no pre-drilled holes in the arms......... You can't beat this pattern of outstanding product and customer support. It certainly keeps me coming back to purchase from Hobbico. Sort of makes you feel good about the hobby. Mike in Douglasville
#6760
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Even though it is still screaming along fine in my Revolver 70, I decided to do a Bowman ring over the winter. Turns out Mr Bowman is retired and no longer making them. So I now ask, does anyone have or know someone who has an extra Bowman ring for the DLE 20 that they would sell.?
#6761
How old is your engine? I think you will find that the manufacturers have begun using a much better and softer ring material in the later models. You might do just as well to get a new piston and ring assembly.
#6763
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It's about 5 or 6 years old now. Probably only averaged about 5 flights per month on it. Maybe I'll order a new stock ring and do the lapping mods on the reed valve housings just for something to do while its too cold to fly. One other question while I'm at it. Is there any power gain or noise reduction using a pitts muffler?
#6764
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Power about the same as the stock muffler but the sound is more enjoyable to listen to. A deeper tone with less of the pop - pop sound the stock muffler has.
If your 20 is 5 or 6 years old now, my recommendation would be to sell your existing engine and just buy a new one. Why? They have been improved quite a bit since you bought yours both in running quality and reliability. The biggest improvements being the ignition advance curve and stronger crankpin and needle bearings that were prone to fail on the older engines. Not bad mouthing your engine as the older 20's were good, the new ones are just improved and better.
If your 20 is 5 or 6 years old now, my recommendation would be to sell your existing engine and just buy a new one. Why? They have been improved quite a bit since you bought yours both in running quality and reliability. The biggest improvements being the ignition advance curve and stronger crankpin and needle bearings that were prone to fail on the older engines. Not bad mouthing your engine as the older 20's were good, the new ones are just improved and better.
#6765
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Well it runs fine so no need to replace. It's just as fast as another guys Rev 70 at our field who just put a new 20cc on his. I was looking to do a little "secret" tuning over the winter to try to get the edge on him the next time we raced. I'll probably pull it, look everything over and decide if anything needs replacing. Probably do the lapping on all the intake stuff as well. I know Valley View has a version of this engine that most of the reviews have raved about. It will most likely be what I eventually replace this one with.
#6767
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#6770
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Well it runs fine so no need to replace. It's just as fast as another guys Rev 70 at our field who just put a new 20cc on his. I was looking to do a little "secret" tuning over the winter to try to get the edge on him the next time we raced. I'll probably pull it, look everything over and decide if anything needs replacing. Probably do the lapping on all the intake stuff as well. I know Valley View has a version of this engine that most of the reviews have raved about. It will most likely be what I eventually replace this one with.
#6772
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So Mr bowman retired huh? That's crazy. Luckily I ordered a ring from him a few months ago.
I've had my motor for almost 4 years and it's still running great. I had a hard crash with it soon after I got it. Since it went in nose first I pulled it apart and replaced the crank and bearings (took the carb apart to make sure it was clean). The ignition was pretty beat up so I ordered a DLE 30 ignition because I hated the stepped timing and the rpm would hang for a while before dropping down to idle. It made slowing for landing a pain in the butt. Once I went to the DLE 30 ignition it ran awesome.
I've had my motor for almost 4 years and it's still running great. I had a hard crash with it soon after I got it. Since it went in nose first I pulled it apart and replaced the crank and bearings (took the carb apart to make sure it was clean). The ignition was pretty beat up so I ordered a DLE 30 ignition because I hated the stepped timing and the rpm would hang for a while before dropping down to idle. It made slowing for landing a pain in the butt. Once I went to the DLE 30 ignition it ran awesome.
#6773
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I understand your reasoning. When you have the engine open, pay special attention to the lower rod bearing. If at all loose or worn in any way, I'd recommend replacing the crank assembly (includes the new bearing) with the newer version. This is the most likely area to fail in your older engine and especially if you fly at full throttle much of the time.
#6774
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My crank pin broke about 3 years ago. Maybe 4 years? Can't remember exactly but I sent it in and got it fixed for free. I assume new bearings were installed as well but whether it was a new version I don't know. I am going to tear it apart over the winter just to check everything, especially now that I have some competition at the field. As far as props, I'm running a 15x10 now. I have an old set wings I thought of playing around with to see if some sort of retract could be fit into them. That would certainly clean the airframe up and look totally awesome.
#6775
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If you put retracts on the revolver you'd better post some pics in the revolver thread. That would look crazy!
I don't remember who it was but a long time ago I saw a rev 70 that had the wings clipped. He basically cut of the tips. Everything past the end of the Aileron was gone. It looked pretty cool. I don't know if it would reduce drag any, but he did say that it increased the roll rate a little. Just a thought.
I don't remember who it was but a long time ago I saw a rev 70 that had the wings clipped. He basically cut of the tips. Everything past the end of the Aileron was gone. It looked pretty cool. I don't know if it would reduce drag any, but he did say that it increased the roll rate a little. Just a thought.