microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

I love the idea of retracts on the 70" Revolver. Would make for an even sleeker plane and would look very cool. Would probably add some weight, though. And would also then have to be very careful on landings. One of my two DLE20s (the one on the Rev 70) is running great - using an APC 15x10 now (better speed and still good vertical). My other DLE20 has been running rough and cutting out. That's going to go into a 65" Phoenix Edge. Need to look closer at that engine. Pretty sure I recently rebuilt the carb. Maybe the reeds need replacing. Or, if I replace the carb maybe I'll replace it with a DLE30 carb. And maybe try swapping in a different EI (one from Hobby King).

btw - the roll rate of the Rev 70 is plenty fast, if you have your throws set high enough. Don't think it's necessary to clip the wings for that.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

If you want to try a different cdi I'd recommend the DLE 30 cdi. My motor ran substantially better after I switched the DLE 30 ignition.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Well, I ran into some trouble with my trusty DLE20. It seized up on me. Not a hard fix, but I'm trying to figure out where the FOD came from that caused the issue. I found some tiny pieces that looked like they may be from a small "E" clip. I can't figure out where it came from. I don't know of anywhere in the engine or the carb that uses a flat E clip. Anyone think of where it could be from?

I had put in a Bowman ring about ten flights ago, but I don't see having dropped it somehow when I put the ring in. I don't think it would have rattled around in there that long before causing an issue. It was running like a champ.

It definitely isn't one of the clips that holds the wrist pin in. Those are both where they should be. It could have just sucked it in through the carb somehow, but I don't know where it would have come from. There isn't anything like that anywhere else in the plane. Maybe got blown up off the runway and into the cowl? Not likely, but possible.

Any ideas are appreciated.

shane55

I had something like that with a crrc 26 a few yrs ago. I was running it on the ground when it stopped suddenly. after that it could not be turned over past just before TDC. I opened it up and found a cylindrical fragment about 2mm long. I could not figure out where it had come from. I put the engine back together and it started and seemed normal.After about 2hrs of running the engine stopped in flight and was seized again. I opened it up and found the small end bearing had disintegrated ruining the cylinder. There were many small cylindrical fragments this time. The mystery of the first seizure was solved. It was a roller pin fragment from the small end bearing which had started to fail.

afjetmech

So I took apart my trusty 20 and put in a new stock ring. Piston was in great shape with just a few minor scratches near the bottom. Got a new cowling for the Rev 70 and put a Pitts muffler on as well. I also did the sanding mods on the intake surfaces. Bearings were all in great shape and very smooth. Question I have is about breaking in this new ring. What are your recommendations on that? Taking it out tomorrow to fly. Temps should be in the high 50's. I've left my needles where they were prior to the "rebuild".

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

As soon as you can get the needles set - get it in the air and enjoy.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Yep, agreed. Maybe cool it a little bit, but not much, and not for long.

BTW, nice install on the cowl. Looks great! -Al

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Agreed. The cowl is very accurately cut. How about a thread with step-by-step pictures and directions?

afjetmech

No flight report unfortunately as I woke up this morning with a 101 fever. Gone now so it was just one of those 8 hour things that are just enough to ruin your day. But, next Sundays forecast is calling for 70 degrees. I'll take it for December! As far as cutting the cowl, thanks for the kind comments. It just takes patience and small amounts of grinding at a time. I did what most people do I assume and made a close cutout in a length of card board that I had taped to the fuse behind the firewall. Remove engine, install cowl and trace on to the cowl. Make the initial cutout just inside the lines. Reinstall engine/muffler and try to fit cowl, taking off small amounts as necessary. Lots of trips in and out of the house to do the grinding outside. I'm on my second marriage and did 21 years in the military, so patience is second nature now.

afjetmech

Engine ran great. Put two flights on it yesterday. Had one dead stick but I think that's because I had my idle set a little too low. Power seemed the same but the sound was definitely much more mellow. I really like it. I doubt this made my Revolver 70 any faster and I never clocked it before hand. Can't compare to the other guys 70 now either as he destroyed his a couple weeks ago. Doesn't matter. I'm loving this little engine, especially on this plane and have more than gotten my moneys worth out of it.

Michel

Hi
I,m new to this thread ,................. WoW,................ it,s a biggy .
I bought my DLE 20 a long time ago . I,m keeping it for my TopFlite Spit-Fire 60 .

I have a question about the ignition box . It is marked #4 , and take 4.8v to 6v . Was this model a trouble maker at low idle ?

Is this a good or bad thing ? No the engine has,t seen gas as of yet .

Any help would be appriciated .

Michel

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

I'm not totally sure what you're asking about the ignition specifically. In my opinion, a trouble maker is never a good thing, haha.

Anyway, I'll give you my opinion/experience. I initially had issues with my motor taking a few seconds to settle into an idle from higher RPM (the RPM would "hang" a little while before dropping down where I'd expect it to), which made landings tricky. I ended up having a crash, so when I reused the engine on the next plane I bought a DLE 30 ignition to replace the original. The ignition for the 30 doesn't have the "timing step" that my DLE 20 ignition had. My issue with the hanging RPM was gone with the new CDI. So, if you find you have a similar problem, switching to an ignition without the variable timing will most likely solve the issue.

Hope that helps some. That sounds like a cool combo you've got planned.

RonMcCormick

My Feedback: (4)

Yea you have the old setup, how good or bad this is depends on you. If this is your first gas engine it could (will) give you headaches. If you have lots of experience you will have fun sorting out the issues. I ended up putting new carb and ignition on mine runs great now but the cost#%@&ks! Good luck!
Ron

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

If you use a larger prop like a 17 or 18x6 and set the low-end needle a little rich, the idle hang will not be much of a problem. A smaller, higher pitch prop will make it more of an issue.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

I run a 17x6. Running a less than optimal tune is just a bandaid fix and I doubt would totally get rid of the issue. I don't know if DLE actually tested the ignition, but it was a bad choice to pair with the 20. Maybe a good idea in theory, but didn't really work out. I know I'm not the only one who ditched the stock CDI for something else and was happy afterward.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Mine has been running reliably for 7 years. A hellofa bandaid!

kmeyers

+1 I've been running 6 years no problems.

Well actually the first plane I put this engine on was a GP Extra.60 size.

I had metal gear servos but the elevator was not up to the power needed at full throttle 16 x 8 speed pass. It was a well built kit, but that little engine ripped the elevator apart. I now use only pin type hinges and good servos on similar setups.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

My experience similar to Ron's above. The guys new to gas struggled with that #4 ign. the most. Myself, I run my 20 on the fat side, and get all the power I'll ever need (including 3D demands) while running it on the fat side.

If you decide on a new module, your call, suggest you look into the RCXP module. It's the latest and greatest, the smallest, and sometimes least expensive (45-50.).

http://www.rcextremepower.net/ignitions.html

Michel

G-Day
Thank You guys for the heads up ,.................... I,m on it ,......... greatly appreciated .

Michel

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

I loaned the drill used for DLE 20 props to a guy in the club and he disappeared. Does anybody have the drill size handy?

Michel

hi

8 mm ,.......... reamer

Michel

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you!

alfawaz

Guys based on your experience what 3 blade prop would you recommend for this engine? Is a 13x8 too small or is it fine? What else have you had experience with?

Thanks

DaleD

Here is an answer to your question. Taken from a previous post.
I hope this will be of help. All the best best to you.
DaleD

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

I also experimented with retarding the timing to about 15 to 18 degrees BTDC and used a smaller prop. Keeps the rpm down and the engine runs with less vibration.