DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
#6802
I have had good results with the Master Airscrew 16-8 three blade props. Depending on a number of variables, getting 7,000 to 7,500 RPM with this prop. Besides that, they look good and give up very little performance to a two Blade.
#6805
The Corsair is a Koyosho ARF, 71" wingspan. DLE 20 with compact pitts muffler from J-Tec. Turns about 7,100 rpm. The Tony (KI-61) is a Flite Models ARF, 71" wingspan.Carb cooling was a real problem but finally got it sorted out. Took some careful baffling, air ducts and cowl flap. The plane flies great but I believe no longer available. From Hobby King. The P-40 is Top Flite 60 size ARF. Unfortunately no long available. The plane flies good with no bad problems. This DLE 20 has a "Bowman Ring" (he is now retired). and Bowman treatment re the reed valves. This involves honing the surface of the reed valve block to get a better seal. The engine starts easy, idles good and runs great. I think I'm getting about 7,500 rpm. This on also has a compact pitts muffler.
#6807
With the Tony, because of the tight cowl, I was getting vapor lock in the carb causing all kind of problems, engine out, lean running etc. because of the carb setting right above the muffler can of the pitts muffler. Finally put in the "blast tubes" ducting cooling air to just above the carb and the cowl flap to help remove the cooling air. Seems to work as I have had no problems since.
On the P-40 I also ducted air back to the carb. This was easier because of the top scoop. Notice I opened up the cowl flaps. Not sure if all this was necessary on the P-40, but certainly didn't hurt.
On the P-40 I also ducted air back to the carb. This was easier because of the top scoop. Notice I opened up the cowl flaps. Not sure if all this was necessary on the P-40, but certainly didn't hurt.
#6808
Yes the Kyosho is still available, go to their website. The ARF goes together will and has some nice flaps already installed. It also has gear doors, but I had to redo the operating mechanism. It comes with metal rotating air retracts which have obtained mixed reviews. I couldn't keep mine working and replaced them with Robart air retracts. Others have reported no problems with the kit retracts.
#6810
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With the Tony, because of the tight cowl, I was getting vapor lock in the carb causing all kind of problems, engine out, lean running etc. because of the carb setting right above the muffler can of the pitts muffler. Finally put in the "blast tubes" ducting cooling air to just above the carb and the cowl flap to help remove the cooling air. Seems to work as I have had no problems since.
#6811
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This may have been asked already but this is such a LONG thread I could not find it.
My DLE 20 takes a long time to come down to a slow idle. It idles fast for about 20 sec.
and then settles down to a good idle. Any ideas? Tks
My DLE 20 takes a long time to come down to a slow idle. It idles fast for about 20 sec.
and then settles down to a good idle. Any ideas? Tks
#6814
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Thanks for the reply! Except for the hesitation to come down to normal idle, everything is Great. Idle is good after about 20 seconds and at anytime the transition is flawless...no midrange gurgle whatsoever..smooth as can be! Maybe I should live with setup I have,. I am 80 years young and can really get those needle valves screwed up and have to go back to factory settings. I ALWAYS discard the spark plug that comes with the engine and install a CM6 plug. Thanks again.
#6815
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That burble, and the "high idle hang" are your 2 options here. If the engine is rich enough to come down to an idle reliably, it's very likely rich enough to have that burble in mid range.
Honestly, with that high idle hang doing it's thing anywhere on final, most guys will go for the burble rather than face the uncertainty of the idle thing, especially with it's habit of doing that on final. For that reason, in my mind anyway, burble is the lesser of the 2 evils. Burble can often be minimized noticeably by opening the plug up to .025". For whatever reason that wider gap will burn the rich mixture more efficiently.
What club do you fly with? I spend the winters flying with Tri County over by Dunnellon. -Al
Honestly, with that high idle hang doing it's thing anywhere on final, most guys will go for the burble rather than face the uncertainty of the idle thing, especially with it's habit of doing that on final. For that reason, in my mind anyway, burble is the lesser of the 2 evils. Burble can often be minimized noticeably by opening the plug up to .025". For whatever reason that wider gap will burn the rich mixture more efficiently.
What club do you fly with? I spend the winters flying with Tri County over by Dunnellon. -Al
#6817
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Oh, and FYI, I too always use the NGK CM6 plugs.
good day,
Jeremy
#6818
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Bob, Jeremy is talking about the ign. modules shipped with the earliest generation 20's. It drove many nuts. Could go into detail regarding them, but there's not many around still making owners crazy.
You can tell if you have one easily by looking at the max input voltage for the module. If it's 8.4v, you have the newer one that does not have the issue Jeremy describes.
If you have an older one, be happy to go into it. -Al
You can tell if you have one easily by looking at the max input voltage for the module. If it's 8.4v, you have the newer one that does not have the issue Jeremy describes.
If you have an older one, be happy to go into it. -Al
#6822
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I wouldn't trust hobby king, but that's just me. I'll try their stuff on my SC truck and buggy, but I won't trust their stuff in anything that flies. I kinda think of them like Harbor Freight tools. If they break or don't work I won't mind too much and I'll throw it in the trash. If it works, then I saved a couple bucks.
Anyway places like Valley View sell ignitions that'll work well too. Most of them are made from the same company anyway.
Anyway places like Valley View sell ignitions that'll work well too. Most of them are made from the same company anyway.
#6823
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All my 20's (I have three in service) run the same, either I have the idle hang or the mid range "gurgle". I opt for the smooth transition and
put up with the "idle hang" I have other larger DLE but they are still new in the box. I am 80 yrs old and slowing down on my RC so I do not
know how they will perform. Thanks to all for the info!
#6824
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3 things being discussed here.
1. Transition (idle to wide open transition)
2. High idle hang
3. Burbling
That #1 smooth transition (idle to wide open throttle response) is not hard to achieve with any of the modules, and has little to do with whether or not your engine is susceptible to the #2 high idle hang or #3 burbling
The tuning option I was mentioning earlier, is regarding the #2 high idle hang and #3 the degree of burbling you experience. You can have pretty decent transition through that entire range. It's not really an issue.
You can minimize/eliminate the #2 high idle hang by running the low speed screw a hair richer from where it is now, WITHOUT affecting your transition. If you have the older module (#2?) you can further minimize the idle hang by setting your idle speed as low as possible (something under about 1800rpm or so). Because of the single step timing curve that occurs around 2200 rpm or so, there may (will!) be some difficulty if your idle is set closer to 2000rpm.
Yes, you may notice a little more #3 burbling with the richer mixture, but that can be minimized by increasing the spark plug gap to .025"
1. Transition (idle to wide open transition)
2. High idle hang
3. Burbling
That #1 smooth transition (idle to wide open throttle response) is not hard to achieve with any of the modules, and has little to do with whether or not your engine is susceptible to the #2 high idle hang or #3 burbling
The tuning option I was mentioning earlier, is regarding the #2 high idle hang and #3 the degree of burbling you experience. You can have pretty decent transition through that entire range. It's not really an issue.
You can minimize/eliminate the #2 high idle hang by running the low speed screw a hair richer from where it is now, WITHOUT affecting your transition. If you have the older module (#2?) you can further minimize the idle hang by setting your idle speed as low as possible (something under about 1800rpm or so). Because of the single step timing curve that occurs around 2200 rpm or so, there may (will!) be some difficulty if your idle is set closer to 2000rpm.
Yes, you may notice a little more #3 burbling with the richer mixture, but that can be minimized by increasing the spark plug gap to .025"
#6825
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All of the above works. I made these adjustments several years ago and there has not been an issue since. I went one step further; The plane is one of the older H-9 Corsairs, .60-size. I installed a 3-blade Master Airscrew 16x8x3. The additional mass of the 3-blade prop completely eliminated all of the three issues discussed after setting up the three steps outline in ahicks post.