RCG 20cc question...
 

I am installing an RCG 20cc gas engine into a new model, and I need to know what the prop shaft dia. and thread size is. I need to know, so I can order a spinner adapter for my new model.

The instructions state to use 25~40/1 oil mixture. From what I read...it looks like I'll be using 25 to 1 ratio for my oil/gas mixture. I've been told to use outboard moter two cycle oil...any suggestions ?

I would like to replace the carb on this engine...any suggestions ?

What replacement spark plug should I use ?

This is my first gas model, all my other models have been glow fueled. I built a 60~90 size Big Stick and mounted a RCG 20cc engine to the nose.

Thanks for the help,
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

More than likely is 8 X 1 metric..

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

25/1 should be plenty safe! I was thinking that 32/1 (4oz/gal) was the suggested though? I've been running that in everything for quite a while, but went to it (from 40-50/1) because of the suggested for this engine. Now, I don't remember where I got that info though! Maybe for the DLE 20? I'm not real picky on oil brand, but I do insist that it say "for use in air cooled engines" on it somewhere! Outboard oil not a real good plan. They run MUCH cooler than these little guys run.

Just curious, what's the thought behind replacing the carb?

NGK CM-6 is the plug most are using, gapped at .024 for more consistent mid range. Available at auto supply for 4.00 or less. Some outfits are raping buyers....

Nice idea on the exhaust!

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

To the best of my knowledge the RCG 20 is supplied with a Walbro carb which is just about the best there is for our small engines. This model and engine combination is very good first choice for a gasser and should provide you with lots of enjoyment so enjoy.

Karol

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Flew my 1/4 scale 16lb Clip wing cub today, It has the RCG 20 with 17/6 prop. Bone stock. Always runs great, flys great, enjoy!

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Thanks for the information...I'm still not sure about the prop nut size, but I'll try to get a 8x1 adapter for my metal spinner. The kit came with a plastic spinner...but after having a plastic spinner expoled on me...I will use them no more.

I read that the carb on the RCG 20cc engines was not reliable...just what I've read is some forums. I wouldn't know a Walbro carb from any other brand carb...but thought I might as well find out where I can buy replacement carbs incase my carb turned out to be a problem. How can I find out if its a Walbro carb..and where do you go to buy replacements?

I installed a DoBro vibration mount (90~120 size). I hope this helps with any vibration issues I may have. Several of the guys in our club have had issues with servo's going bad on their 2 stroke gas models. I did balance my wood prop, as I do with all my wood props and I only fly wood props.

I'll try and find a good 2 cycle engine oil for air cooled engines...any recomendations ?

I'm hooking up the DLE rpm sensor, as well as a battery voltage meter for the ignition...all put on top of the fuel tank cover I built. So when the battery voltage meter is showing a green light, you will know the engine is hot. No light, no fire.

I ended up going with a 500cc fuel tank, installed over the CG. The throttle servo is up forward in the forward bay, with the electroic unit for ignition, and both batteries will be set way aft in the tail, for balance (I'll make a hatch aft for this-and still to do).

Thanks again for all the help,
Bobby of Maui

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Regarding carb reliability, I haven't experienced any trouble, and haven't even read about anything serious? Generally, worst case is you need a carb kit, commonly available at most shops servicing chain saws, etc.

Regarding servos, gas engines are hard on them. Most will recommend metal gears (not cabonite!) on the flying surfaces for reliability.

Favorite oil brand? As mentioned, I look for "for use in air cooled engines" on the bottle. If it says that I'm good to go. Don't have a favorite. My thought there is if I'm running something that says that, doesn't matter to me if it'd dino or synthetic based, the engine is not likely going to suffer from an oil related issue (not at 32/1 anyway!), and it's very likely going to out last me....

Nice plane! Have fun! -Al

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

All around very good advice. To check if your carb is a Walbro, it should have the name embossed on the carb cover with the single centre bolt.

Just for the heck of it re your oil question, any good mineral or synthetic oil designed for 2 stroke air cooled engines and mixed at 32:1 will work just fine such as, Pennzoil, Stihl Ultra, Red Line, Royal Purple or Castrol to name a few.

Karol

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Prop nut is 8x1.25 on the RCG 20. Ahicks advice is spot on.

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Hi Guys,
I finished my new model and found out that an 8mm x 1.0 does not fit a RCG 20...the thread is to fine, so I ordered a 8mm x 1.25 nut and adapter for my model. The model came out to 9 lbs. even, with two 2000 ma. batteries mounted aft near the tail, on the bottom of the model. The balance came out spot on and no lead was added to balance the model...the two aft mounted batteries did the trick. I'm going to use a 15 x 6 prop on the model and I ordered 5" DuBro ballon airfilled tires for more prop to ground clearence-and yet to receivce from Tower Hobbies. The carb on my model is a Walbro and I am going to use Royal Purple 2 cycel oil for my 25/1 oil fuel mix.

I mounted my servo's aft and installed a solid tail wheel assembly for the model.

I ended up with four "Y" connectors in my model...I wish someone made short "Y" connectors, like the ones that cme with my DLE RPM sensor. All my servo connetors, as well as inline connections, have safety clips installed.

I used metal control rods to connect the engine to the servo (I used a Airtronics 94322 servo) to contrl the engine. I also used a metal control rod to connect a choke rod to the engine for start up...any proplems with this set up ? I'm using a Airtronics 2.4 10G system.

It was my first Gas model build and was surprised at all the goodies that go into a gas model. This model is almost to small to install all the requirements needed to support a gas engine...but feel it should do the deed just fine.

Thanks for all your support,
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Bobby, a 15x6 is too small! You're after something closer to a 17x6. Check out the note from the guy with the Cub above. That would duplicate my experience with this engine as well? -Al

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

I have two 20cc's and so far theprop I like bestis an 17x6. Those are on a Profile and a Stearman.

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

If you are going to run a 15 6 prop then you will miss all the fun you can have with this engine, it will rev its t*ts off and give poor performance, 17 6 and it will drag that plane about like you would not believe.

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Hey Bob, looking at your 3rd and 4th pics it looks like you are using a metal rod for the throttle servo.
Do those rods screw into a plastic connecting rod inside that sleeve or is it metal all the way through?

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Good catch 3136. That is a definite no-no. Just those two point's being metal, throttle arm to metal control arm, will cause RF. And wear really quick from vibration also.

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Hey Bob, the dubro ball links are great, I also put a washer between the nut and link for extra safety.
Use a nylon pushrod in a sleeve and that will give you extra protection from the dreaded rf.

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

I do not no if your ignitions is all set the way the pictures show?
But your spark plug cap is not all the way down on the CM 6 spark plug.When the cap is on all the way It should cover the hex of the spark plug.Push hard with the heel of your hand,They go on hard and come off harder.
Good Luck
BCCHI

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Hi Guys,
God Bless...thank you for all your advice. I will need to change out my choke pull and engine servo connection to the engine. I will hook up DuBro ball links like 3136 advised. My control rod for the engine and choke is metal...all the way through. I was led to believe that 2.4 radio's are not effected with RF nose from metal to metal contact. I stand corrected and will make the changes stated.

I will double check my spark plug connection to make sure its seats properly.

I will need to by 5" DuBro balloon tires and go with a smaller tail wheel. My prop to ground clearence with a 17" prop would almost hit the ground with my current set up...bummer. Ok...changes coming.

By the way, up front next to the RPM indicator is a voltage check...when the lights on...mags are hot and this is connected to the ignition battery. The voltage check, below the radio switch, is for the receiver.

Thanks again for all your help guys...
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Didn't understand you were faced with a ground clearance problem! A 15" 3 bladed prop might be an option for you?

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Ok Guys, here is today's mods,
I took your advise and placed ball links into my choke and throttle linkage. I did have a bag of 2/56 ball links, and hardware, so got busy and changed them. Next I ordered 5" DuBro balloon tires, and a .60/90 size tail wheel assembly, and will remove my 120 size I now have installed. I have only 2" of prop clearence with the model sitting on its tail...and 1" with the tail in the level placement. No where near enough clearence and the new tail wheel assenbly and larger tires should allow 17" props with no clearence problems.

I mixed my gas up with Royal Purple, 25/1-2 cycle oil, with "0" E-92% unleaded gas. I pulled the choke, hit the starter until I saw the gas make it to the carb, then went choke off, 1/3 throttle, and hit the mag switch. The engine fired right up and ran... : ) It ran for 10 minutes then I shut if off. The first run almost used up all the fuel my 240cc fuel tank. I let if cool off, then filled the tank and ran it again, this time it ran for more then 15 minutes and much smoother. So it looks like a 240cc fuel tank will be large enough for the model. I will run it for at least one hour...maybe two hours before I fly her.

I did notice that the tail shook like crazy...infact the whole model shook a good bit, even with a balanced 15x6 prop and a DuBro vibration dampening engine mount. At higher rpms, it seemed to smooth out, but at lower rpm's...it did vibrate a bit. So I made a second tail brace for the model, to stop the forward tail shake and called it a day.

I'm not sure how to read the RPM indicator...but at full throttle it showed 970 to 985 on the meter, with a 15x6 prop (my 17x6 props are inbound from Tower and Hobby King). Finding 17x6 props is not easy and since we don't have a real hobby shop on the island...its all mail order.

I bought and used 15x6 props, because the instructions I received with the engine stated to use this prop size. I will go to 17x6 like you guys suggested, as soon as they arrive. Prior to my first engine run, I put an allen head bolt through my muffler extension...a buddy of mine told me that there is a possiblity it could melt off the silver solder I used, at extended full power runs.

By the way...no clean up and no oil all over the place !

Thanks again for all your help,
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of maui

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Hey Bob, 2 cycle gas engines are not like glow, just set it a little rich and fly it, otherwise you may overheat it and ruin it.
The gas engines run a lot hotter and the centre of the prop will not cool it enough, it needs air flow.

The rpm needs to be multiplied by 10 so it looks like you are revving it too hard and need a bigger prop.

I have tried anti vibration mounts and found that they make it actually worse, but I have not used the one you have.
When you run the engine on the ground for tweaking, make sure you have the wings on, as they dampen it a little.

Have fun

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

I was going to mention having the wings on when running too. They dampen a lot of the motion that's concerning you. More will go away as you get some time on the engine and carb settings are closer to what you'll actually be running long term. The extra tail brace wires won't hurt a thing though!

I agree also that time spent ground tuning/running (beyond what is required for a basic tune) is generally not necessary. The best ground tune available will still very likely need to be tweaked when it's actually flown. I get it though if this step is more of a confidence builder!

Regarding your ground clearance issue, you could narrow your gear up a bit to gain some, and look around to see if you can find a tail gear with a little lower profile?

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Bob,

I am building this very same Stick for a friend, however, we are installing the 15cc RCGF. I have found the 15cc RCGF engineon 15x7 propto be more than sufficient for my H9 Ultra Stick 60 providing unlimited vertical performance, hence, we are using the same set up. Your Stick with the 20cc will be an absolute blast once you get past the prop clearance issues.

Can you provide details on the hardware you use to connect the vertical fin to the horizontal stab? What length and size push rods are you using and what type of ends and fastners?

Thanks

DaleD

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

A 15x6 prop is too small for your 20cc engine and would suggest you use at least a 16x6.

Karol

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Hi Guys,
I have a RCGF 15cc gas engine...but since I had two RCG 20cc engines and the physical size and weight is almost the same, decided to go with the 20cc gas engine. I believe this model will have a nice vertical presintation... : ) ... nothing like cubic inches to add climb rate to any model. I just wonder how the torque will effect the model with a 17x6 prop. When I broke in my ST G90 on a .40 size ultra stick...the vertical acceleration was outragious...but the torque was something to care for when adding power. Ugly sticks have powerful rudders and I just got used to using my rudder thumb when I had the G90 on board.

My 5" wheels, 17x6 props and new smaller tail wheel assembly are inbound and should be here by months end. I could have gotten them here sooner...but paying more for shipping then the flippen things costs is a bit to much for my budget. Shipping is always an issue here...and patience. It will arrive soon enough and until then, I'll run the engine a bit more...this time with the wing attached. I've other models that need my attention and will get busy until the new parts make it here. I'm not in a rush to fly it...but do look forward to the day. My Airtronics 10G Tx was sent in for an update and I will not fly anyway until it gets back to me.

I used plain old 4/40 wire rods (cut from 36" long rods-12" 4/40 rods are not long enough), for the tail brace wires. I went to Radio Shack and bought pre-tinned connectors, the one with no plastic covering-with the screw hole in the middle-w/a wire connetion tab. I fit the wire into the slot/tab and just silver soldered the wire to them. I made the top rudder connector first-screwed into place, for flight, then moved the wire to where I wonted to place the outboard stab connection, and cut the wire. Then I marked how the tab was to be set on the wire...then just soldered the tab to the wire-after removing it from the model. You will need to bend the tabs a bit to fit the angles of the wires to the stab, from the rudder...but Its really quite simple to do...and make sure you have the proper screws and hardware on hand for the five attachment points. I've done this on my models for years and it works. It gives you something to hold on to and also beefs up the tail feathers a bit. I used 4/40 cap head screws, washers, lock washers and fiber lock nuts...double saftied. I have a good collection of hardware on hand...so I just go to the cap head screw length that works best and attach the goodies. 3/4" long cap head screw for the top of the rudder and 1/2" for the stab connections. #2 washers, lock washers and 4/40 fiber lock nuts.

As soon as I get this model ready for flight, I'll let send you more pictures of the model.

I used different main landing gear then came with the kit. This gear is a bit heavyer then the kit supplied main gear and not easy to bend or reshape. I did add my rubberband mod to my landing gear and it does help with your less then perfect landings and helps keep the ground from sneeking up and causing prop damage on your model. I started this up in Alaska, and works wonders with rough landing fields. Even though I fly off of pavement, our field is note worthy for gusty and windy conditions. It can go from dead calm to 15 kts wind in a heart beat...the tropical trade winds can be tricky here. We also fly next to old WWII Corsair reventments and the revetments play hell with the winds. So strong landing gear sure helps in gusty cross wind days. Landing gear issues are a common problem at our field...guys are always messing with their landing gear, landing gear attachments and wheels. I also like to do touch and goes...so I beef up all my landing gear and have at it. I wore out three sets of wheels on my ultra stick .40...and two engines...before a big bush up and grabbed my model...may it rest in peace.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Hi Guys,
A few of my 17x6 props arrived and a nice fuel tank vent I ordered. I installed the fuel tank vent on the bottom of my model, just aft of the fuel tank and installed my new prop. I also received the metal spinner adapter (8mm x 1.25-long) and modified my spinner to fit the props. I then balanced the prop and spinner...but still waiting for my 5" tires and new tail wheel assy. The parts are due in any day...and then we will be off flying. That sure is a big prop and the largest I've ever used on any model I've built in the past.

What is the operating RPM should I be looking for, for best thrust and power. I'm not looking for speed, but vertical assent.

Its getting closer for me and I hope to have a first flight in the coming week. Enclosed are a few pictures of the work done to the model and you will also see the ground clearence issue I'm dealing with.

I added one washer, in two places, under the left side of my engine mount, to give me some right thrust. I'll see how this works out and I may need to add more or reduce the thickness of the washers after I fly it and see how if flys.

If you look you will see two eyelets on the bottom of my fuse. These are the drain holes for the fuel tank bay. If for some reason my fuel tank leaks...it should leak the fuel out of these two eyelet holes...and not all over the models insides. I've seen several models soaked in the insides by fuel tanks leaking gas and really made a mess of everything. I do pray this works as installed... : )

My garage opens to the West...and we had an awesome sunset tonight.

Thanks again for all your advice,
Bobby of Maui

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Not sure of any similarities but the RCGF 15 is 8x1.25

DaleD
<br type="_moz" />

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Hay DaleD,
I did my second run set today with the RCG 20cc on my Ugly Stick. I'm using Turnigy 17x6 prop on a 80 deg. F. day @ sea level...humidity was 60%.

I found a sweet spot at around 8100~8300 rpm, with a solid bark, smooth, sweet and rock solid. Top end came to 9000 rpm and a good idle @ 2000 rpm. It pulled like a bull with his tail on fire...this sweet model is going to have some serious vertical.

When I ran the engine, the wing was on the model and the vibration was considerbly less. It still vibrated, but at around 8K it got real smooth.

I needed to richen up the mixture on the high end...and I turned the forward carb set screw CCW -1/2 turn (the mixture screw nearest the prop). It seemed to lean a bit at high end and the instructions gave this set screw as the one to richen up the high end. It seemed to run better at full throttle, but 90% of the run time was on the sweet spot of about 8100rpm.

I managed to get 13 minutes of engine run on 240cc fuel tank. I may install a 450cc fuel tank in the near future. Right now 10 minutes of flying is fine and what I set my Tx timer on.

I was surprised I only lost 900 rpm with a 2" longer prop...and I've still two other types of 17x6 props to test run. The 17" prop is considerable more massive then the 15" prop and I'm using the RPM indicator I installed on the model to get my RPM figures.

Let me know if my RPM figures are good and any additional information/help would be kindly accepted.

The prop shaft is a 8mm x 1.25...that is the prop adapter size that fit on this engine and holding on my alum. spinner.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Bob,

Looks like all left to do now is maiden that baby. She's definitely looking like a beauty with the power of a beast, you are going to be pleased with the performance. The 17x6 has always been reported to give optimal performance on 20cc sized engines. Make sure and try Vess and Falcon props they are known to be great. Regarding the fuel tank size, I am pretty confident you will be satisfied with the 8oz tank once the engine gets broken in as these engines are nothing like glow motors, they are very frugal on gas consumption. I am running a 6oz tank on my RCGF15 and have half tank to spare after a 10 minute flight.

Make sure and tune the engine properly. Start at 1.5 to 2 turns out on both needles, warm the engine. Tune the high needle for max rpm and leave it for a lil to ensure stability. Reduce to idle for a bout a half minute and allow the engine to cool a bit then increase idle to about 3000rpm. Now tune the low needle for max rpm which should result in the engine being on the lean side. Reduce to idle again and allow to cool a bit then try to transition to WOT. You will most likely need to richen the low end to achieve smooth transition.

How is your prop clearance? The GP Stick has quite a bit of clearance, the one I am building with the RCGF15 is fine with the 15x7 prop. Did you needed to install larger main wheels?

Keep us posted on your plan for maiden.

DaleD
<br type="_moz" />

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Hi Guys
I have been flying this RCG (Aerovate) 20cc for about a month now, over 85 flights, 16 hours running now, spins a Menz 17/6 at 8000, pulls a 9.25 lbs Seagull edge out of a hover adequately - yes a a couple of dead sticks, the carb is a Chinese copy and the jettings are not as precise, plus cooling is an issue with small gas engines inside cowls - since smaller engines are more likely to run at higher rpm than larger displacement engines, they tend to get hot after 10 or so minutes of hard 3d flying - specially at high alpha or hover and harriers where cooling becomes an issue. I have now learnt to land after about 12 minutes of fun - fabulous engine, and I am expecting it to last many more flights

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8kgm...hannel&list=UL

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Hi Guys,
Some good news and some not so good news.

My transmitter came back from Airtronics...so that is back on line. I also received a package from Tower with my wheels and tail wheel assy, along with two Master AirScrew S series 16x6 and 16x8 props. I installed the smaller tail wheel and it will work just fine. I had to recut my spinner and rebalance it again, to fit the Master AirScrew props. The 5" wheels will not work and to be honest it looked rediculas...but just to wide and big to go in without some new hardware. Then I went to charge the batteries for its first flight tomorrow...and my tail wagged...yep...wagged. It was loose...!#$%& ! So I pulled the safty wires off the tail, removed the covering and found my tail was only being held on with the top fuse balsa-and four safty wires on the tail. It was cracked all aournd both sides and the bottom. Now how on earth did that happen...? Folks...I don't have a clue...I didn't bang it...and only ran the engine...honest. The blue line on the pictures is where the crack formed on this model.

The balsa was a bit soft on the bottom and on one side of the fuse. As you can see, it cracked where the servo rods exit the airframe in the tail. I also saw where one servo exit was miss cut and a small piece of balsa was placed in the repair. I've never had an Ugly Stick crack in this place...not in the several dozen I've built over the past 45 years. I'm almost ready to build me a new fuse...I've the lite ply and balsa on hand...and could get one built in a week or so. I will see how this flys tomorrow and holds up, but I'm ready to build a new fuse.

I CA'd the whole mess together with slow cure, then placed 1/64" ply over the damaged area's to give added strength-then covered the ply with clear urethane for protection. It took four hours for the fix and to get the model back airworthy. The tail now is rock solid and no play at all. Its ready to fly now and I plan on giving the model its first flight tomorrow morning-weather permitting.

This has been an experience for sure...

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Don't foget to re-check the center of gravity after that fix....

Good luck on the maiden,
AV8TOR

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Hay av8tor1977,
Yes I did rebalance the model and it was a bit nose heavy before...now its dead on.
Thanks for the input,
Bob

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; font-family: Helvetica; border-spacing: 0px; font-size: medium; "><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; ">Well done with the repair Bob. I would suggest that you forward the pictures of that crack/break to the manufacturer, at the very least they should be aware that the area could be a potential weak point on the model. Thanks for sharing, I will be sure to properly check the one I am building for any cracks or weaknesses.</span><br style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; " /><br style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; " /><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; ">I hope the weather with be kind enough to allow for a ,aiden this weekend. Did you ever consider a spinner prop nut as opposed to he spinner? For my UltraStick with RCGF15cc I installed a spinner prop nut from Tru Turn in order to reduce weight on the nose, work out great and looks better that the spinner in my opinion.</span><br style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; " /><br style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; " /><span style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; ">DaleD</span></span><br type="_moz" />

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

DaleD,
I did forward pictures and my fix to Tower Hobbies. I've done business with these folks for over 25 years and never a problem. I did not ask for a replacement, just sent them the pictures and the problem I found with my model. I am not sure if running the engine with out the wing caused the crack on the aft fuselage...or just a fluke with this airframe. I also modified the model and placed the rudder and elevator servo's aft in the model and also added my stab support wires. I'm not sure if this help create the problem or just a build issue with the guys who built the airframe for Tower. Either way, I'm still happy with the model and plan on flying it tomorrow. I was going to go fly this morning, but the winds were up and over 10kts (Maui R/C weather station). This Sping and Summer has been windy and not much flying due to the weather. Winters are best here on island for flying R/C and when we usually have our airshow.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

What is that big ding in the leading edge of the stab in second picture.This is probably what broke the tail loose.Must be pretty weak in the tail section.
Just a wild guess,glad you caught it before you took off.
BCCHI

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

That's a good spot there Bcchi. Bob, take a close look at that ding, try and remember when and how it happened. Could be the reason for the crack.

DaleD
<br type="_moz" />

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Aloha DaleD,
I did take a look at that spot to on the stab and didn't think that was the cause. When I test ran the engines, I used a bungy cord around the rudder, then went under the forward part of the stab, aft to a pick into the ground. The bungy rubbed on that very spot and I saw it at the time. I believe the bungy cord may have created this part of the stab, but I really do not know for sure. I do know when I ran the engine the first time...with out the wing...the model shuck like crazy. I'm very surprised at the out put of this engine with a 17x6 prop...it does streach that bungy cord...a bunch more then I expected. But what ever the cause...it was noted and fixed prior to the first flight. I just hope the fix will do the job and I will check it out after the first flight and each flight there after.

I received my Tx back from Airtronics and went to the flying field this morning...with the Ugly Stick. When I hooked up the wings...only one aileron worked. I left the Tx manual at home...and I was not able to fix the glitch, untill I got home at noon. It took a while, but I managed to get it all worked out (and I was about ready to shoot the flippen Tx by then), but by then my day was slowing down. I will fly this beast on Tuesday...if the wind gods are kind to us.

I tried to buy a Spinner Prop Nut on line at Tower...but they are out of stock for the 8x1.25's I need. That was my first idea, but just wasn't able to find one anywhere to buy. Do you know who sells one I can buy ?

I put on a Master AirScrew Symitar S-Series 16x8 prop. I've flown these props with my .60 and .90 glow engines and they are as good as APC and I think better...more robust in construction, with the same performance.

I'll keep you posted on the first flight.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

RE: RCG 20cc question...
 

Sorry you weren't able to maiden, hope conditions will be more favourable on Tuesday. This is what I use for a prop nut on the RCGF 15cchttp://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store/agora.cgi?p_id=n0875a825&amp;ppinc=propnuts&amp;ex act_match=on

DaleD
<br type="_moz" />