EME Starter for the DLE111
 

I ordered one of the EME starters for my DLE111 a few weeks ago. Finally got it from SDS Hobbies and got it mounted this week.

I started and ran the DLE111 with the EME starter today. So far I'm impressed. We will see how it holds up under use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAZm74f5r3w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4j7...I&feature=yout u.be

The 3542 outrunner Electric motor that powers the starter pulls 16.38 amps and uses 192.9 watts for a cold starts. It pulls 8.19 amps and uses 95.9 watts for warm starts. I was concerned by what appeared that motor was stalling during the startup but with these numbers it must be the soft start mode.

The DLE111 tacks 1400 rpm at reliable idle and 6600 rpm at full throttle on a 28 x 8 Xoar prop. That calculates to 56.29 pounds of static thrust or 11.034 HP. The engine is the latest V3 and is new with only about 8 ounces of gas run through it for now.

How hard was the EME starter to mount? Looks like you have to use a bearing puller to take off the DLE hub in front and replace it with the EME hub that has a magnet pressed into the hub. I was looking at SDS site and thinking about getting one.

They do require a puller and some mechanical skills but well within most modelers ability.

EME starter DLE111
 

I was just guessing that you needed a puller. I read no manual comes with the starter. But from looking at the pictures on how it's made, it did not look to bad on the install. I guess you have to re-time the motor. I have two manuals on the DLE111 one has no info on timing and the other says timing is to be set at 40degrees. I would guess timing would be more like 28 to 30 degrees.
To bad you did not make a u-tube on the install, you would be a hero do to no manual.

I did not have to re-time my DLE111 after the installation. Everything is keyed and the quality of the starter parts pretty much locks everything where it needs to be. I did mine and then a freinds and they both ran great after the installation without any adjustments.

Guys as follow up. These EME starters are starting to show up in our club. We have the 2 EME sarters on our DEL111s, 4-5 on DLE55s, and one guy just bought one for his DLE35. Another guy that has 2 of the starters on his DLE55s just bought the new EME70 twin with a factory start installed on a rear shaft from Mile High RC. All of these starters are working well. I still think it will be some time before we know how they hold up with normal everyday use but for now they are great addition to our tail heavy warbirds.

That's good news. I have two DLE111cc . The first one came in timed at 26degrees and the second one was 32 degrees. After setting them at 28 degrees they both run as good as any of my DA's.

Well I got my starter today for the DLE111cc. I was getting ready to install it and found that the one-way bearing was installed backwards from the factory. I was going to press it out and reverse it. But the bearing fills a little gritty so back it goes to SDS Hobbies


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QiK...6xYkiqzL-T2-eA


I also forgot to mention, the timing after installing the starter was off 5 degrees

The starter is working great
Feature:
1. ONLY suitable for New DLE111 engine, not for old version.
2. Suggest using 3542 brushless motor (about 900-1100KV) with 4mm motor shaft EMP N3542-1000KV 2-4S 504W Brushless $15 EBAY
3. Suggest usingabove 60Abrushless ESC- GET A CHEAP ONE YOU ARE JUST USING IT AS AN ON/OFF SWITCH NOT AS A TRUE SPEED CONTROL


FYI
The starter for the DLE111 or DA100 is not a true EME starter. It is a reversed engineered designed unit which IMHO, I like much better then the EME unit, due to ,you are using a brushless motor not a junk brush motor like EME uses.
I have a EME 55II and two EME 60cc with electric starters and they work great, but with less then 50 starts the brush starter motor let go and I replaced it with a brushless motor and now starts so quick you don't even need to chock it.
I wish EME would come out with a starter for their EME120cc I would get one. I like the EME motor better then the DLE-111 --just me

What kind of grease are folks using for the gears?

The main clutch bearing appears to be sealed. So nothing you can do with it. I can't tell if the secondary bearing is sealed or not. I apply a light oil on the gears and at the secondary bearing about once a month when I'm flying a lot. I have heard that one of the instructions sheets that come with the EME55 starters tell us to use a heavy grease on the gears. I don't recommend that because it will atteact and hold dirt and grit and make a mess. These gear don't get much use so should hold up well with the light oil.

FWIW use http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...S_010=00155416

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Graphite-L.../dp/B007I9XUD0

I flew RC Helis for twenty years with one way bearings grease it once a year. The external gears will picks sand, dust, etc. I would not use oil or grease. Keep clean and use dry lube often.

Gents,
I know this is an old thread but wating to confim a few things. My DLE-111 is a Version 2 engine. The book states timing is 44 degrees BTDC which is along way from the 26 - 32 degrees stated here.

Keen to know correct setting in case I need to check it.

also what torque for the 6 x prop bolts. 40 Ft lbs I had heard on other threads.
torque for the 13mm hub nut?

cheers
P

Have started to fit the starter bits to my DLE-111 on the 1/3 Pawnee.
I am going to have to rotate the mounting 180 degrees otherwise the motor will protrude through the top of the cowl. In order to do this the bracket that bolts to the engine case will need to use the lower bolts either side of the carby housing, I will have to split the bracket but should still work fine.

Will be using an opto kill switch to trigger two 6V auto relays that in turn pass the current from the lipo to the ESC. This way the lipo is fully isolated from the ESC when the starter is not in use.
Photo is my trial fit of the bits.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...a39945d1cd.jpg

Spent a few hours mounting and wiring the speed controller as well as the relay board. Relays all working correctly.Just need to run the cables through the fuz and out behind the engine, terminate the connector, fit the relay board and give it a run.

Oh and ado a CG check again!

Attachment 2265769Attachment 2265770Attachment 2265771Attachment 2265772Attachment 2265773

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...31060b5a2b.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...12e5eb6ffd.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...d57cd2e91d.jpg

ok progress so far not that anyone is reading this dribble.
All cabling is completed, relays working as designed.
Next issue is to program the ESC, specifically change it to plane mode and set throttle end points.

At present when I plug the battery in it detects a "throttle", in this case switch is in full throttle position and goes straight into programming mode.

My aim will be to program the switch as follows:
- S0 relays off, ESC not connected
- S1 ESC receives a throttle stop setting & relays are triggered connecting the Lipo and the ESC arms with correct beeps
- S2 ESC receives a throttle full setting and motor is engaged to spin at full power

Hopefully this works, if not it will be use a manual arming switching to trigger the relays or a spare channel on the Tx/Rx to achieve the same.
Plan A, B or C!

Happy to report the starter is now operational.
Programmed the ESC last night.Switch function for 3 position switch on AUX 7:

• S0 - opto kill switch off, relays off, ESC off
• S1 - opto kill switch is on, relays are on, ESC initialises and arms. ESC sees a "throttle STOP" signal. Lipo is connected to the ESC
• S2 - as above but now ESC sees a throttle "FULL" signal and the motor is driven to full power to engage the engine for starting

Finally switch is put back to S0 which dis-arms the ESC and isolates the Lipo from the ESC cct.

I recorded the test run to test the starter functions, ignition is off.

cheers
Peter

Hi Peter,
I'm also interested in fitting the electric starter to my DLE 120. Like you I have very little space for mounting it upright and may have to do the same thing as you have done i.e. cut the bracket and mount it inverted. I would be very grateful to know your experience since the conversion. What is your electric motor shaft size? With the DLE 120 I understand a 5mm diameter shaft is required. Is it correct? Is there a grub screw for attaching the drive gear the electric motor shaft? Have you encountered any problem with the modified mounting? Looking forward to hear from you.

San

Hi at All
can somebody tell me if the same starter for dle/eme can be fixed on engine dla-128?
many thanks in advance