CRRC PRO GF26I
 

Hi from Dallas, TX. I will be reviewing the new CRRC Pro GF26I engine along with BossHoss in IL and Craig from down under
here in this thread beginning next week when our new engines arrive from the factory. They are in route aross the ocean as I write this post.

We will be giving you, the reader, our unbiased "out of the box" impressions of quality and then take you step by step through the break in procedure with test results from different props as we build time on the test stand.

Next, we will mount the CRRC Pro GF26I on our airframs, (mine is a Sea Gull Kaser 2000 68.75" and BossHoss is a EF YAK-ST 68")
(Craig what is your airframe??) This should give us a fairly even comparison as we test the GF21I under actual flying conditions and report the results to you the reader with photos all along the way.

Stay tuned until next week when the journey begins with the arrival of our GF21I engines.

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

Opps, I need to improve my spelling B4 next week folks. Last post should read Sea Gull Laser 2000 with 68 3/4" span
and GF26I engine ( NOT GF21I)

Back 2 typing school

- Jon

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

Good news, my CRRC Pro GF26I engine was just released by US Customs this morning[:D so should receive it next day or two and will get pictures with details posted just as soon as I have it in hand.

Regards
Jon

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

I thought Crrc has a distribution agency in the USA. Am I mistaken?
Good idea to start a thread.

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

Jon:

My question that I hope you answer is: "Before placing a tuned pipe on this engine, how long should it be broken-in on a test stand while using a "more conventional" muffler?"

Fly safe, Glover


PS My next build project will most likely use a similar engine with a tuned pipe.

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

I had a long conversation with Jim at Western Hobbies Glover1482. He has an extensive background in go kart & motorcycle racing since young age and he suggests running the engine for 6 each 10 minute runs with shut down and cool off in between each run to temperature cycle the engine. This will relieve the stress built up in the metal parts during the manufacturing process.

You can pretty much go with any quality petroleum based 2 cycle oil for air cooled engines just do not use synthetice to break in the engine as the rings will take forever to seat. I let my engines fast idle at aboutt 2200 to 2500 RPM for each 10 minute run. Then I run another couple tanks of fuel with brief runs up to full throttle and back down to fast idle. Then put engine on your airplane and go fly a gallon or two of fuel before switching to synthetic oil if that is your intention.

I will probably stay with the Penzoil Air Cooled 2 stroke oil I break it in with. Rotax & Penzoil have extensively nothing more than a a lawn chair on mounted to a broomstick you want the engine to keep running.

Cwecked EMS tracking and my GF26I is at the post office for delivery tomorrow:D:D:D:D I hope to post pictures and
out-of-the-box impressions tomorrow night.

RennerRenegade - Jon

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

Correction to last post: Penzoil and Rotax have extensively tested this oil for Ultralight use. It is real important your engine keeps running in an Ultralight when you are essentially sitting in a lawn chair mounted to a broom stick ta couple thousand feet up in the air.

So if Penzoil Air Cooled 2 stroke oil is good enough for this application it should be good enough for our small RC 2 strokes.

Jon

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

This is very much untrue. Rings seat very quickly with Synthetic quality oil as well. There is much less cylinder wear, so your engine will last longer. If the dino or synthetic oil satisfies or exceeds JASO FC class it is good enough. The rest is rubbish as far as our needs are concerned.
The reason that ultralight Rotaxes use Pennzoil as preferred oil is in the clean running, lubricity and high temperature resistance. Not all dino oils are inferior to synthetics, and Pennzoil holds it's own.
I run Putoline RS959 (fully synthetic racing oil for two strokes) at the moment, because Mobil1-2T is hard to come by. My engines thank me for it.

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

Pe:

Then if I use the combo of a MVVS 26 engine and a 3266 tuned pipe, I should break in the engine (with tuned pipe installed) by simply running it at a fast idle for the first gallon while using Mobil 1 at 3%? Can I assume that this break-in time can be "in the air" as long as I do not run it too fast for too long? Then I can begin to lean-out the mixture, and start moving the throttle up towards the 8K rpm range after a couple of gallons?

Fly safe, Glover

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

hi there all.....craig from oz here.

i have in my hot little hands a new GF26I......lets have some fun with it....

the 2 things that i noticed after i unpacked everything was, firstly...the cdi unit. its now in a nice shiny box. secondly...those little blue standoffs....lovely blue annodising.. works well against the red cylinder.

i have found one thing so far after visually inspecting every last inch of this engine. guys can you all check where the locating dowels are on the crankcase for cracks. one of mine IS cracked...its cracked on the carb side. it may be a problem with leaking etc...but i will still run it and see if it does.

i temporarily assembled the ignition system with a 800mah 4.8v battery. WOW...it gives out a nice fat blue spark...you will hafta be VERY careful with this ignition system as even the slightest movement of the magnet past the pickup yeilds a great fat blue spark....yes it WILL jump a 1/2 inch gap EASILY.

this engine has 1 compression ring on the piston so it has less drag than if it had 2 rings...much better for power and should have a faster transition from idle to full noise.

speaking of throttle response....the ever reliable walbro carb adorns this engine. its a wt version of perhaps the most well know carb in the world. its a diaphragm type carb with a fuel pump as well so its a "set and forget" carb in most cases.

its interesting to note that this engine uses a 10mm spark plug. most other engine ive seen of this capacity use a 12 or 14mm plug. this 10mm plug appears to be a resistor type plug...handy for reducing the ignition noise asociated with spark ignition engines.

stay tuned.....more to come

cheers
craig

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

i am of the belief that a constant load on a new engine will bed in the rings. i prefer synthetic oil over mineral based oil as you can reduce the content to get more horsepower. plus synthetic oil can withstand a lean run better than mineral oil.

cheers
craig

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

Hey Craig, whats with the flute?

Do you intend to charm the engine chinese/indian style for good luck prior to running

cheerios
sid

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

Glover,
Sent you a PM
I do not want to steal this thread

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

lol yeah.

trike...
my airframe is a 90 size seagull models edge 540....it should go like a rat up a drainpipe.

cheers
craig

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

Maybe it's to get the engine in tune? :)
Graig, The engine looks good. The ignition seems a re-branded. Can you give more details on that one?

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

Graig & BossHoss you lucky dudes got your engines B4 me:D:D:D:D checked EMS tracking and my engine was delivered at 10:15 this morning so will run home at lunch to pick it up. EMS shipping is very reliable.

PEreivers, Jim at Western Hobbies told me the ignition is an Rcexl unit with custom advance curve for the CRRC pro GF26I engine ( and also thier GF45I) re branded with their name. These are excellent units as CH Ignitions has now started selling them as well as BCMA and others. Fat HOT blue spark compared to skinny pale spark from my old CH ignition.

I will post pics and initial inspection report tonight as well as try to fire it up and give report on how easy or hard it is to start and how the ignition works.

Stay tuned - Jon

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

Hey Hardtop351 you gonna tear the wings off that Edge 540!! Talk about some pull out of hover:D:D:D:D:D Keep us posted


Trike

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

Pereivers I just picked up my CRRC pro GF26I at lunch time and had to sneak a peak at it driving back to work.

I must have misunderstood Jim because the ignition does not look like a standard Rcexl box that CH & BCMA are selling. I now have both ignitions side by side and will post a complete report with pictures later after I get off work.

Trike

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

hey mike...

have you checked your crankcase for any cracks??...i have and ive found one....not good. my crack is on one of the c'case alignment dowels. ive already spoken to the factory about it but i need to take a better photo so i can show them.

yeah i might rip the wings off.....guess i will just hafta fly SLOWLY huh?? lol im a little unsure if this airframe will stand up to the vibration of this new engine....time will tell but

cheers
craig

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

the cdi unit is in a chrome coated plastic case. the case is in 2 parts held together with 4 screws. ive had the lid off to see inside. the electronics are "potted" with black compound with a green flap of plastic to protect the cdi coil. there appears to be no metal shielding inside this unit. so im unsure as yet wheather it will cause radio gear problems. the plug lead braid goes all the way into the unit but unsure if it is connected electrically at this end.

whats the chance of you donating some different size props to test this engine out?? lol

cheers
craig

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

If the shielding (metal vapor deposit on plastic) is as good as the RCexl ignition, there will be no interference. I tested mine in open air with 5mm spark gap down to 3.6 Volts, when I stopped the test with ignition still sparking.
Gear was driven at 7000 rpm. Current draw about 600 mA

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

My GF26I arrived today :D:D:D:D:D:D in a brown paper box. Upon opening the box found a white box inside containing the GF26I engine, muffler, ignition module,spark plug, spark plug wrench, hex wrench, and blue anodized stand offs complete with allen bolts and blind nuts., all inside a form fitting styrofoam packing .

This is excellent packaging folks as I have friends who ordered engines from offshore and received them in the regular engine box with engine wrapped in bubble wrap and the other parts thrown in with some peanut like foan pieces. End result was dented mufflers and bent exhaust tubes.

So CHEERS for the packaging.

Next I removed everything from the styrofoam inner packing. First thing I noticed was faint smell of gasoline. Looked at plug and it had been run (brown) looked at the piston dome same thing. Also marks on the mounting ears. So I know the factory ran this engine B4 shipping. This hopefully means the needles are adjusted close to normal running setting.

The fit and finish look very nice. The crank case is low volume type made from castings with a satin bead blasted type finish. The head/cylinder is neatly powder coated in bright red. The ignition sensor is mounted to the front of he crank case snout with 2 machine screws allowing some timing adjustment. The muffler is the side dump stlye bead blasted aluminum with shiny satin finish and is internally supported to prevent crushing and has two hardened allen bolts and gasket. The ignition module has a couple nice features with mounting tabs with holes and clips on the side to adjust the length of the HT lead and battery and sensonr leads. These also double as strain reliefs. The aluminum stand off are a nice blue anodized finish complete with hardened allen bolts and mating blind nuts. Also included was a hex wrench to fit the allen bolts and a sparkplug wrench. NO WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS OF ANY KIND could be found in the box.

So CHEERS for the appearance, fit and general quality. and JEERS for the missing or lacking instructions.

Tested the ignition module with a 600 Ma flight Futaba flight pack and a 2100Ma ignition pack. Both operated the ignition with a fat blue spark. Upon plugging and unplugging the battery pack the heat shrink slid back ffrom the connector on the ignition module and found the battery lead is shielded ( one inner conductor ans outer braid). So I slid back the sensor lead heat shrink and found it was also shilelded (2 inner conductors and outer braid. This shielded cable has a very slippery outer cover possibly Teflon??

So CHEERS for the ignition module making HOT Spark and shielded leads,
and JEERS for the heat shrink sliding off the connectos (will fix with a couple tiny nylon tie wraps to keep heat shrink from sliding)

Next step is to mount this cute puppy and fire it up. see picturs of the above posted below

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

There is some discussion whether the ignition module is a rebranded Rcexl or something else.

In the previous post I showed a picture of the CRRC module and the Rcexl side by side. . You can see they are they are physically different. The plug caps are made from different materials, the inner insulator is made from different materials and the battery and sensor leads on the CRRC module is made from shielded cable .

The CRRC module has wire clips molded onto the sides to adjust the length of cable by clipping to the side of the module.

Both modules have a chrome like finish. Both module produce a nice fat blue spark.

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

trike..

i think the reason for no instructions is the fact that these are the prototype engines. i would expect the instructions to be included in the production version. and as far as the ignition is concerned..for me anyways....if it shows signs of casuing radio interferrence this engine will not be fitted to an airframe until the problem is sorted.

cheers
craig

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I
 

Hey TrikeFlyer;
Looks like a very nice li'l motor you got yourself there. Do you mind me asking how much you paid for it and where did you buy it? Who is gonna be
the official distributor here in the States?