I don't know how to explain it any other way I have. You cannot just put a socket on what you called the spinner standoff (pn X6024) and take it off. You have to keep the hub (pn 6016) from turning. Otherwise, the crank and hub just turn when you try and break the "spinner standoff" loose. I'm gonna grab it with a pipe wrench since it doesn't matter if the teeth dig in. It's not usable anyhow.

I've have had a couple gas engines apart for total rebuilds. It's not that I don't understand what needs to be done, I just wanted to know if Joe had any slick tips or tricks.

I guess I should have saved all this writing and just called him...

Disregard. Problem solved. I couldn't find my pipe wrench, so I grabbed my 36" channel locks. It took almost all my strength to hold it, but I got it off. It actually didn't mark it up too bad, so if I need to hold it with them while putting it back on I can.

I wasn't going to mess with any if it until I got my new hub, but I figured I may as well get it all ready to install.

Now I just need to get a new pulley puller since my last one was a cheap harbor freight unit...

Sorry, maybe a bit late. If you have a 3/8 impact wrench, generally you can hold the hub in your hand and zip that right off. Like you said though, if you aren't going to use the hub again, who cares.

Hi Jeremy,

I just got back from a big fly-in in Yuma Az. I am sorry to hear that you
got your magnet in backwards. Don't get crazy with trying to drill it out.
I will send you a new un-assembled halls switch. All you need to do is test
the polarity of the switch before you put it together. Then assemble it
with the right side down. I will look to see if I still have your mailing
address.

Kind Regards,

Joe

Jeremy,

Don't mess with the hub. It is put on with an epoxy type loctite. You will have to heat up the hub in order to get the prop shaft to break loose. Then you will need to lock it in a vise and use a custom made 12 mm deep socket to get it off. after you have mangled the hub with your vise you can then through the hub away. I will send you a new halls switch tomorrow. All you need to do is test the polarity of the switch before you put it together. Then assemble it with the right side down.

Hey Joe. Don't worry about the hall sensor. I've already gotten the shaft bolt off, and I've got a new hub that will be here tomorrow (Monday). All I gotta do is pull the hub off and put the new one on. The hall sensor works just fine (I tested it on my DLE). I'm going to put a dab of epoxy over the magnet on the new hub to make sure this one doesn't fly out!

If I run into any problems I'll give you a call.

Thanks buddy!

Magnets usually shatter pretty easily. I would have taken a punch and broken the magnet, then heated it up and dug it out of there with a sharp probe myself.... That was also a good idea Capticom mentioned about just installing the sensor backwards too. Anyway, you're getting it.

AV8TOR

FYI I have 2 motors from the same lot and the magnets from the factory were different, the one sensors was reversed. Engines run fine.

I mixed up the ignition units when I un packed the motors, both motors would not start. Found out that the one magnet was reversed.

I do a lot of conversion engines and make my own sensor brackets, prop hubs with magnet sleeves, etc. Some of the sensor setups I make are in a round tube and you can't just turn the sensor around. So when I am working on installing the magnet, I check which side triggers the ignition, then I immediately paint that side red with a magic marker. Then I sand the other side for good adhesion, check one more time to make sure I have it right, and then I go ahead and glue it in. (I also clean out the hole the magnet goes into, and the backside of the magnet with a Q-tip and acetone.) I usually also then take a small, fine point punch and center punch at four points around the magnet to tighten the hole and trap the magnet in place. Knock on wood, I've never had one come out yet, and I have engines that turn well over 10,000 rpms. I use JB Weld to glue them in.

P.S. Be very careful when you stake the magnet in with the center punch that you don't accidentally hit the magnet, or it will shatter. Yeah..... ask me how I know... :(

AV8TOR

Well, I can say that not checking the magnet is a mistake I'll only make once. I am kinda surprised that the magnet aren't staked in like you do. DLE doesn't do it either.

She's GTG now. I got me some spark again.

Old hub came off nicely, new one went on nicely, I applied liberal loctite and tightened it down. Yay!

Hey Dr. "J",

Good Job!!

ONE question i have also the rcgf 60 its brand new and i will put it in a phoenix tucano 60cc ,.. now i would like to ask if the hub that the rcgf 60 have , is combatible in internal dimensions for the shaft with the dle 55 (not external dimensions) the reason that i ask is because there is a kit for onboard starter for DLE55- EME55,60 or if its compatible with the dle 111 (that its also 6 bolts hub and bigger )

thanks in advance

I think that's going to be a hard one to get answered. Probably not many people who have both a RCGF 60 and a DLE 55 or EME that have compared crank snouts. If you need the hub for one of those engines for the auto-starter, I'd buy one and try it. The hub for the RCGF 60 is only $8.75. I wouldn't imagine one for a DLE costing much. If it doesn't work you're only out a few bucks.

I'm interested in the the Rcgf 30 twin, but have read threads about the two pistons not tracking the same. Rings appear to be a different distance from the port on both sides. Is this an isolated instance with these twins.

What happened to this thread haven't seen a post sense feb

Sorry I do not get notices on a regular basses anymore.. The answer is "NO" the RCGF 60cc single is it's own monster. It will come with a drill guide.

guess everyone is going electric

I am to old to change 100% ;) But that's just this old goat.

Cheers Bob T

P S sent a PM to Joe aka captmicom hope he sees it

No way!

Looks like Hobby People is now carrying RCGF.

Ya I hear that too... For the most part.. If you buy the real RCGF 30T from us or an authorized RCGF reseller, it will come with a 2 year warrantee. I don't think you will have any problels but we have you covered here in the USA if you do. There is a problem with some of the 30Ts but it will depend on where it comes from... Some of the older run cranks were showing fatigue right out of the box allowing the pistons to slip out of time...
I have had two out of all the 30T we have sold after the release in 2014. I have had a couple of the other engine owners call asking if we would warrantee the RCG engines from China. Not even the same......

If you want one and you have an RCGF dealer in your back yard give them a call or we now have an RCGF warehouse right here in the USA go to www.rcgfusa.com and place your order...

Joe, you're running the RCGF warehouse right?

They've only got five engines listed. Looks like the the only current production engines they carry are the 15ccBM, 20ccBM and the 32cc, with the 15ccBM being the only one in stock. The other two they have listed are no longer in production, which makes me wonder where they got these things. Those being the 10ccBM and the 56cc engines. The 56cc is in stock and has a killer price. However, I'd refer to Joe about how good of a motor it is. I have no experience with it. It may be a dud or have some issues if its one of the old engines from the days when RCGF had some reliability issues.

It may be a safer bet to buy one of the newer engines from the new US warehouse. My two experiences with RCGF were with the 26ccBM and the 60cc single, which are both newer engines. Both were awesome. I sold my Edge 540 with the 26ccBM so I could buy my 50cc plane that I'm running the 60cc single on. Both motors tuned easily and had tons of power. I'm still flying the 60cc single. The only issue I had was that the magnet in the prop hub of the 60 came out. Kinda weird, but was an easy fix.

Anyway, that's just my 2 cents.
Jeremy

Yup!!

And yes.. Hobby People is an authorized RCGF USA reseller. We back them to the letter.

Hi guys. Couple questions . Im interested in The RCGF engines.
1. Is the 60 twin still available, or will it be?
2. What does the waranty/ service process consist of?
The price is definately attractive, and ive heard some good stuff about them. definately interested. Do they make any other twins in the 50 to 60 CC range?