RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Just going to reset and start over from there and will also have an extra small tank on hand to check for leaks as well if needed .and i can start at two turns on both for sure

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

What carb? Is it a Walbro? If so what is the number on the carb, so I can get a overhaul kit.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

WT-813 Walbro the repair kit is K10-WAT

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

hyflyer9,
It's a long shot, but is there a possibility your servo might be causing the surge thing? No clue how you're set up, but is it possible to see the servo arm when the engine is doing this? When it's surging, do you have an idea of about what rpm it's turning?

Are you planing on breaking this engine in while flying, or on the ground?

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

I would like to get it running so it is runningreliable at least before i fly the plane again and i had thought the same as you about the servo arm and with the cowl off itdidn't look likeit was moving the throttle arm that is one of the first things i checked at the field but i am going to check and make sure even if i have to replace the servo to be sure but it only seems to do it at idle .

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

I was looking at mine yesterday, and I noticed that the old JR 517 stock servo stops at different places when I start at zero, go to halfway, then repeat it. I also found that when I went to about 7/8ths throttle, it would peg it sometimes, and sometimes just go to 7/8ths. Not very good.

I'll be replacing that servo, no doubt about it.

~ Jim ~

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Hi Folks
Well i got it figured out today and it wasn't the servo but i did find an air leak I am using a T fitting in my main fuel line from the tank with an inline filter and then the T with my fuel Dot line and then a short length of line to the carb so the air leak was after the filter and T and was showing up in the last short length of line for the carb so as a test i removed the T and Fuel dot line and used a straight length of line from the filter to the carb and problem fixed so now i have to figure out if the T is getting the air or just the short length of line or not just a good tight fit .

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

That's what I thought.

Good work, hyflyer9. I knew you could do it.

Looking forward to hearing how it runs when you've finished your rework of the tubings and fittings.

~ Jim ~

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Gas engines live and die by the fuel systems they're equipped with. Make sure to zip-tie those barbed connections to make sure they're tight.

Some guys I know refuse to use a filter because they claim it's just one more place where you can get an air leak. I think they're taking it a bit too far, but their reasoning is sound, as far as it goes.

Take it a bit farther, of course, and you can't ignore the fact that they give dirt a free pass into their carbs. So - use a filter. And make double-dang sure the connections and the filter are sealed tight. It doesn't seem that tough to do, but look at the trouble hyflyer9 had.

This happens a LOT. I just had a guy rebuild his gas system, which fixed his problems and allowed us to tune his engine. I have a prebuilt gas tank strapped to a flat board, and we disconnected his fuel line, and connected my gas tank. The engine started working and we tuned it. I told him when he had his system done right, it would run the same way for him, with no adjustments.

A good number ofgas guys recently made the switch from glow motors. Glow motors are SO forgiving. Slip a tube over a fitting, and it'll probably run fine, no matter what.

Not so with gas engines. Gassers MUST have tight connections, and no air leaks.

They also dislike power lines, but that's a story for another day.:eek:

~ Jim ~

:eek:

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

i stopped using nylon zip ties and replaced them with nylon hose clamps, which apply pressure around the entire perimeter of the hose. I found the zip ties would sometimes kink the line under the zip tie clasp, resulting in an air leak. Grainger sells them for approximately $2.25 per 10, plus shipping. Some online hobby stores also carry them. Here is a link for anyone interested:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/N-1z0dt8e

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

I stopped using nylon zip ties and replaced them with nylon hose clamps, which apply pressure around the entire perimeter of the hose. I found the zip ties would sometimes kink the line under the zip tie clasp, resulting in an air leak. Grainger sells them for approximately $2.25 per 10, plus shipping. Some online hobby stores also carry them. Here is a link for anyone is interested:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/N-1z0dt8e

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Not crazy about zip ties either, but when I do use them, I use tiny ones and I wrap them around the fuel line twice. I've just run into too much trouble with air leaks at that kink S&S is speaking of.

Too, I've learned to use soldered on barbs on everything now. That alone makes a big difference, and the extra time it takes to set everything up that way comes under the heading of doing it right the first time? You can use the commercial barbs (Dubro), 1/8" ferrules used in compression fittings work great, or you can even use 3/16" sections of the next size bigger brass tube purchase at the LHS's K&S display. Since going this way my fuel related issues have stopped completely...

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Instead of using barbs, I now just sodder a continuous bead around the end of the brass. Also use Viton inside the tank. Found it will not stiffen over time like Tygon. Although there are two types of tygon. I think the new version is less suseptible to hardenning, but the Viton has worked great so far.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Man, the response time on this thread is really slow, as someone already mentioned. This has been happening to me for weeks. Adding it to favorites really helps to access the thread; now we need a suggestion for speeding up the comment acceptance!! Otherwise a great thread.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Yup I agree about the zip ties they do tend to kink up at the joint But what i am using is the type of fuel line clamps that the LHS sells for the nitro fule lins and they are made of spring steele and you sqeeze them with a pair of pliers that opens it and releese the pliers and the clamp will close up on the fuel line to tighten them .
But in this case i didn't have enough of the clamps to go around so i used twist ties and i am guessing that the same thing happened as what happens with zip ties they bunched up at the joint so i am heading to my LHS to get a bunch of propper clamps for sure .

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

I as well did the adding this forum to my favorites and i works very well for me now no waiting for it to load only about 10 seconds now and like you said what to do about the sight loading the new post reply's

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

well that only took about three minutes lets see if this works a little faster at the top of the page i found a help section and they do have a few hints there that might help we will see as i am very versed with PC's been a tech support specialist for a few years now.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

getting a little better now and with my pop up blocker off it is a little faster and i think that by adding this sight to my trusted web sight list on my security will help as well .

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Here it is: Leave the page, after you post,by going to another site other thanRCU, on your favorites list, then use your favorites to come back to your post to see if it worked. As always,don't forget to copy your post before you hit the OK button, you never know when RCU will revert to the old habit of deleting your post.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Yeah, it's like RCU has gone back in time 5 or 6 years, when nothing worked right. I can go from a page to another page in the same thread by choosing another page number, and it goes there pretty fast.

When I get a mail notice of a post in my subscribed threads, instead of clicking on the link and waiting 3 to 5 minutes for it to come up, I go to the already-open page (I leave them open for this) and click on the refresh arrow at the top, and the new page with the new posts pops up quickly.

As for zip-ties, there's a right and a wrong way to use them. In my "other" career, where I worked as a dental equipment repair tech for the past 35 years, they are commonly used to seal tubing to barbed fittings. There are a LOT of dental offices in high-rise buildings, and two things run through their tubings; Air, and water. If you leave an air leak, it hisses and drives them crazy. If you leave a water leak, it can run down to the next floor below, and that's one expensive proposition. For some reason, Lawyers always seem to be on the next floor down, in my experience.:)

More often, it's the tubing. The same goes with the gassers. Unless you're running a 100CC or bigger, there's no reason to be using large tubing. Tubings vary in size and I.D., barbed fittings are usually a set diameter. The tighter the fit, the less chance of a leak. Generally speaking, proper tubing size establishes the fit, and a proper connection won't leak, even without any help. Zip ties simply apply pressure to maintain an already-good connection.

Medium tubing can empty out a 16-ounce tank by just gravity in about two minutes. A gas engine with a pump could pump it out much faster than that. In gassers, average flights are in the teens or twenty minute range. Medium tubing is plenty large for most 30CC applications.

If you step up to larger tubing to increase your gas flow, your I.D. increases, and that increase in size is often the weak link in the system, because the tubing has increased in size, BUT THE BARBED FITTING IS STILL THE SAME O.D., and the fit WILL be looser.

It's hard to explain the technique I use to zip-tie seal such fits, but it's really not important here in a thread for a 30CC engine. The issue is almost always the tubing size when there are leaks. If you insist on using larger tubing, you are increasing the risk of air leaks, but this is how I do it. You'll need to practice to get it right. If there is a single barb ring and a smaller diameter neck behind it, zip onto the smaller diameter neck. If there are multiple barbs rings, zip right over the barbed rings. Once you get the zip-tie worked down until it is firm, use large needle-nose pliers (not small ones) to grab the zip end, lay the pliers along the tubing, and twist the tie until it pulls it up through and snaps off. It's important to use larger needle-nose pliers, and which way you twist it matters. Try both ways, you'll see the difference in your results. Small zips either work great or they don't work at all when you get them right. Push on the side of the zip-head, and if it moves, take it off and do another one. It may even fall off. Just do it again. You'll be able to feel when it's right.

The quality and freshness of the zip-ties is of paramount importance. I use 3M brand whenever possible. I throw them away at two years old, and buy fresh packs. A good zip tie has to have a perfect mixture of toughness and elasticity to do its job. To a dentist, having no water leaks is his or her peace of mind. For a modeler running a gas engine, having no air leaking into the lines is the same.

I hope this helps some of the guys.

~ Jim ~[8D]

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

I use medium or 1/8 inch tygon (outside of the tank). However, not all nipples are the same diameter. Once you have tried a nylon clamp, you will likely never go back. Its like Ahicks noted about doing it right the first time. Once I find a product that is consistently dependable, I stick with it. The only down side to the nylon clamps is that they cannot be easily removed.

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Those Nyclamps can be removed, and quite easily. Just push on one of the two center jaws from the side with a small flat blade driver. It slides the jaws sideways and out of each other. I use them all the time.

~ Jim ~

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

Hi folks
Where are you guy's getting these Nyclamps from I would like to try and get some up here in Canada maybe get my LHS to keep some in stock as he is going to just Gas and Electric no nitro I already got him to carry the Syssa engines

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

I like the metel clamps they work pretty good see link you can get them from great planes ' dubro'and H9
www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
 

On the previous page, I posted a link for Grainger, which sells nylon hose clamps in various sizes.


McMasters also carries them at the following link: http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-hose-clamps/=j1dseq