RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

Hi everyone:

I have this engine the turnigy 26hp-S

The engine still in break -in period and today as i was checking the screws i noticed that one of the taps in the rear crankcase is broken off it clean..

All the other screws are fine and the other taps but that one broke off without any damage to it..

how do i go around finding a new rear crankcase for this enigne i contacted hobbyking and they said they don't carry replacement parts for this engine....

Help please how can i use this eninge with only 3 screws holding the engine??? or where can i find the part.. the part number is: 26S-35

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

Hello Night Scream
Please send us a e-mail , we can help you !
We offer after sale support for these engines under permission of manufactory .
Base the problem you met , you can get free replacement parts from us .
Have a nice day !

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

Here's the area that broke off from my turnigy engine. Part number 26S-35

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...m/P1010091.jpg

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

Hey Victor , got your e-mail !
This one must be the very old version .
And now the rear crankcase is thicker !
Anyway , we will ship you free replace part as soon as possible !

To others : if you have XYZ / TGY / B&D / TMM / 3MM and need replacing part s ,please visit http://www.octopusrc.com and leave us a request ! We can help you !

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

well i purchased this engine 1 year ago from hobbyking..

But its been in its box until 2 weeks ago when i started doing the break in period all it has on it is 30 min of run time in a test stand.. and installing into the airplane for fit and checking that part snapped off..

I e-mailed you back with this photo and also the other thing you asked

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

This stub (lug) damage is typical of most Chinese engines - If there is no material or machining flaw in the region, the problem could be more due to the fact that these engines use long rigid stand-offs bolted directly to the firewall. If there is an un-even tightening of the bolts at the plywood firewall; or if one bolt unscrews; or if the firewall is warped; or if the plywood in the firewall is not uniform in resonance, one unlucky stub (lug) could see undue stresses, leading to failure. The stress loads are often the result of an unbalaced propeller, or the use of an electric starter -
Although I appreciate the response of the Chinese representative, I also find it interesting - the Chinese solution to the problem is 'beef it up till it stops breaking' - by making it thicker. Having said that, and without refering to your particular case, I believe that even the best engines can be destroyed in a very short time by using some of installation and operation techniquies that I have seen some newbies apply.
In my personal experience, I crashed a 20% extra powered by this engine (battery failure)- the plane flew right into a ditch at about 4000 RPM, the fuselage was a total right-off, and the engine mount plate got a 90 degree bend - all the lugs survived, no bent crank - no damage to the engine at all.
You makeup your own mind.

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

Hi:

I received the crankcase on june 25th, and today July 6th. I installed on the engine.

I will be putting the engine back into it's plane later during the week and will give you more reviews on how the engine performs after this great new rear crankcase.

Which is super more strong from it's looks and width, compared to the original one that was very flimsy and small.

Here are the Pictures:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...m/P1010145.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...m/P1010146.jpg

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

Hi everyone:

Well the engine has had quite lot of flights since the parts from octupus r/c and i cannot thank them enought.

Sadly the engine this last 2 weeks has been giving me problems which i cannot explain.. It has high,medium and low speed.

But the low speed it's extremely high.. and won't turn off unless you switch the ignition off.

I've checked and cleaned the carburator entirely twice and still the same result.. it won't reduce its idling speed..

Loosened the idle stop screw, heck took it off and still won't loose speed in idle or even turn the enigne off unless it's by turning the ignition off..

Checked the linkage, servo [i'm on the 3rd futaba 3004] and still nothing.. the engine still stays in high idle that taxis quite fast..

I honesly dunno what to do.. i've checked for air leaks everywhere, and anything else that i can think off be it fact,fiction,makes sense or sounds crazy and still get the same result..

Anybody got any idea what to do? I like the engine but this problem stops me from flying that model..

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

Hello Victor , do you have another walbro carb which can be mounted on 26s ?
You need one to test if you can kill it after you turn your throttle down .
If your second carb can stop engine ,then the carb on your 26s is bad .
And I can guess the sharp of low needle may break down . You can turn it off from carb and check .

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

Well i changed carburators to a brand new one..and had the same result..

It won't turn off via turning down the trim on the engine.

I even did it manually,took out the idle screw completely and got the same result the engine won't turn off unless you turn off the ignition switch.

I'm extremely frustrated.. The engine turns on extremelyfast and has power but one cannot taxi or land cause it will taxi too fast...

New carb.. cleaned the original one in everyway possible and got the same results.. I give up....

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

If you close throttle butterfly valve all the way and engine still runs, it must have an air leak.Check for warped gasket surfaces on reed block. Clean it up and try a thin layer of RTV gasket maker and assemble.also make sure that the mounting bolts are not bottoming in the threaded holes and preventing the surfaces from being torqued down properly.Do not give up ,you have just not found the problem yet.
Good luck

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

Really confused , and never met problem like this before .
Does your reed valve block all right ? Please check it as well .

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

Well i'll try checking that reed valve assembly but i see it alright visualy.

I'll just make another gasket or buy that gasket sealer you mentioned.. cause this is extremely frustrating!!!!!

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

The front seal can also be a potiental air leak. I have read of other turnygy 26's having faulty front seals or even missing the front seal.The front bearing's shield is not a seal, and will suck in air.This could easily cause the problems you describe.

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

I took the engine apart but I can't reach the front bearing...

I held the hub with a big pressure pliers and the shaft i held it after the threat with another pair of pressure pliers and turned it clockwise, counter clockwise... used wd40 and it would not budget..

Tried pulling the hub out to see if that made it come out.. got nothing but scratches on the hub from the pressure plier..

What's the trick to getting those parts out to check or change that front bearing???

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

The trick is that if you are not familiar with engines sent them in. All I can do is cringe when I saw the first line with PLIERS.

If you did get to the bearing you would need to know how to pull it. Then I always replace the seals when replacing the bearings. This must be done correctly to not damage the case or seal.

Best to send it in because if you crack something or mess something up you are not saving anything. Have them set the ignition advance to 28 degrees before TDC. Something else that you need to know how to do.

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

Hello. I just bought this engine from Hobby King. I thought it was a 26 cc displacement engine, but on the box it's labled as "Turnigy 26HP-S with a 32 cc. displacement. Is this just a typo? Does anyone know for sure if this engine is in fact a 26 cc displacement? (By the way, I installed it in the Gene Soucy Great Planes Extra 300S after removing the Saito 1.80 I had in it. Along with the ignition module, 2700 mAh ignition battery, stand-off mounts, and muffler, the engine weighs LESS than the Saito 1.80 with muffler and mount). Thanks.

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

Your best bet is to break the engine in, then post your tach numbers and prop size.

If it's larger than 26cc the numbers should reflect the difference.

Or you could do a liquid test to see if the cylinder actually holds 32cc.

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

My Turnigy 26 is finally dead - it lasted a total of approximately 20 hours of normal flying - three rebuilds, and now it is sure dead - the lining has all peeled off, the conrod has a slop at both ends, the ignition module has lost its HT sheilding and the fiberglass reeds have developed un-sustainable gaps. I am sure that by changing half the total engine parts in spares it can be rebuilt, but there is no point - I wanted to test this engine to destruction, and I think I have achieved my goal - (read my posts in the beginning of the thread)

So after 20 hours of flying thats the end of the engine- In some fairness to the engine thats about 200 flights, and most of them 3D, which means abrupt throttle changes. So how many are 200 flights - well thats too many for some fliers - I suspect many users would not go past 50 flights on this engine in a whole year - so thats four years of use for them and they will possibly be very happy with this engine.
In comparasion I have a four year old SV-26 that I have now flown over 350 flights, and it still starts first flip after choking and has never died in the air. Or in comparasion the 3w-28 which took me good 100 flights to break-in, and after 350 flights is now getting to its maximum potential - I expect the 3W to last around 500 hours or 5000 flights.

So thats my story of this engine - you make up your own mind.

PS - early this year I also started a test to destruction by the same means on a CRRC GF40 kit built engine - nothing exciting to report on that one- the engine is going exactly as it was in the first hour - good 200 flights on it now - I suspect that might take a while.

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

shakeelsid, thanks for the report.
While not wishing to turn this into another oil debate thread, I have to ask what oil and at what ratio did you use during the life of the engine?

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

Exactly right - so just that it does not turn into a 'my oil choice is better than yours', lets just say that this Turnigy was running the same 32:1 mix that my other engines (MVVS, 3W, SV, DLE, Roto, King) run. Some of them can run 80:1, but I just mix one mix for all - makes life easier.
In my personal opinion, most oils are good for these engines, and provided you have enough of it in the fuel, any oil will work on any engine - rest of it is advertising gimmick. In the larger scheme of things, it is just a simple chinese two stroke engine - no barrium- sodium- helium bearings, or ceramic piston liner - it is an ordinary engine that will run well with any oil. In my opinion this Turnigy engine is just the same as 'henluan' brand of hedge trimmer - it is a cheap chinese product, dressed up to be pretty. This also is the first gas engine that I tested that lasted less than 20 hours - there have been a few glow ones at the 10 hour mark, but a gasser at 20 hour is astonishing

RE: Turnigy 26CC
 

hey I am looking in  getting one of these engines. I was going to put it in my 1/4 scale j-3 cub. Would that be a ok engine?

I have one of these engines that I acquired used. The previous owner said it ran great and was low time. It certainly looks pretty clean and the price was right. I haven't ran it yet though. I was hoping someone here could give me a bit of information about it. The carb on it says "Walbro" I'm thinking it's not the original. They didn't come with genuine Walbro did they? Also, the carb has the fitting for the crankcase pulse. But it has been capped. Will this type of carb function without the pulse? Or do I have put on a new carb? Thanks for any info.

Yes they use Walbro carbs... at least the ones I had.

The carb pulse can be driven either via the fitting or via a hole in the crankcase that provides the pulse to the carb. In the latter case the fitting is capped off.
You can verify this by removing the carb and looking for a small hole in the gasket next to the intake opening. That should align with the hole in the carb and the crankcase providing the pulse.

Thanks, I read up on the pulse on another string. I'll assume the pulse is going through the carb plate for now then since he plugged the pulse line. I have a nice running CRRC Pro 40cc that has the crankcase line for the pulse. I didn't know that the ones meant for the crankcase line also had the hole for the carb plate.