nexusdc5

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More Pics

n8622t

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Looking good Nexus...nearly nine months since I have worked on mine and will be getting the Big Hog down today to resume the construction...going to have a custom hub built for the DA170. Plan is to build the hub from brass to counter the tail weight created by the tuned pipes. Will do it last in order to make the hub the correct weight. The first thing in resuming the build is to deal with the wire attachment and wing dihedral. The wires are cut and soldered and for any of you are reading this, was that incidence setting for the dihedral 4 or 4 1/2 degrees?? Sure would save me some reading in this thread if anyone would throw that info in for me.

Thanks Jimmy

RichardGee

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I have lightened both the rudder and tail posts and did not notice any ill affects in flight.
This is all just dead weight that adds little to the essential structural integrity.

RichardGee

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Hannes,
Your Gee Bee looks SO GOOD! What did you do to make it look so scale? There is something different... I cannot really put my finger on it... it seems to sit in a more scale position??

invertmast

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Not a comp-arf, but here is my scratch built 26.5% version (still need to get the nomenclature/stickers for it and paint)

RichardGee

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Jimmy,
The Granvilles (Pete Miller) designed the airplane with 4.5 degrees of dihedral. However, it has been determined that a little more helps with directional stability. IF you can manage 5 or even 5.5, you will be better off and will never notice the deviation from exact scale.

n8622t

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Thanks Richard great post.... I'll fire up the Dremel

n8622t

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Thanks again Richard 5-5.5 it is

tridente

Hello,

first sorry for my bad english - last english lesson in scool is some years ago...

I am andreas from germany. Last week i also ordered a geebee r2 from carf.
All my friends told me: andreas, are you drunk or on drogs...[X(]???

However - now some days and 51 sites of this thread later i am less anxious about building and flying the R2

Thanks to Richard an Hannes for your flights, work and feedback here in this forum!!!

For the maiden, i will take the setup of post #1156.

My R2 is currently just under construction and i am very happy about this...

Prost
Andreas

RichardGee

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Andreas,
Congratulations on joining the CARF Gee Bee fraternity!!
I wish to make a CORRECTION to post #1156 Set up...

Everything remains the SAME, EXCEPT my statement about Rudder to Throttle mixing.
I have flown the Gee Bee both ways, and concluded that NO mixing was the preferred set up. HOWEVER, this was due to my mixing being WRONG!

The optimal set up is to have right rudder mix begin at about 50% power. The deflection should be 1mm at 50% and should increase to 2mm total right rudder deflection at 100% power.

Of course, every airplane with be a little different and pilot preference is also different, but the CORRECT MIX will in fact make the Gee Bee easier to handle. (just as the wrong mix will make it more difficult to handle)

Your English is GOOD... but you might want to reach out to Hannes as I am sure he can communicate in much more technical and specific terms to help you out.

GOOD LUCK! We want PICTURES

tridente

Hello Richard,

Thanks for exact discription for rudder-mix. I will try it so.
The last days i am in contact with hannes (danke für deine Tipps Hannes) i am glad to live only 100km beside him.

In time my R2 is at a friend, who has more experience in building.
In some weeks i get it back, than i will make pictures for Forum here.

hannes83

Immer gerne Andreas

hannes83

More pictures from Germany:

tridente

A very nice hangar

tridente

Hello,

here are first pictures from building [8D]

nexusdc5

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Hello Andreas (AKA tridente) Are you Setting up for a Moki Install? I was Curious Because I am too. I noticed in your pictures the Bolt pattern for the Engine is Very Similar in nature for a MOki install, Not to mention the Carb or Ventury Way... Nice Job on your Dome!

tridente

Hello,

yes, my first choice will be a moki 250. I flow this engine the last month in my SU31, and i know him well.
If i understand the comments here and the manual right, i reliable engine is just as important as low weight.
The Moki maybe is to heavy but 100% reliable and i love this sound...

If builiding is ready, i measure the weight and decide if the moki can stay in the geebee or i must take a lighter engine.

nexusdc5

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Hello Andreas, The Moki 250 has been flown In The Gee Bee and it flew it well however from what I understand it is a handful. It only means NO ROOM FOR ERROR!

tridente

Hello Nexus,

I hope this is the right time for moki in my geebee.
In this thread are many important tipps, and i can take a look on hannes's geebee bevor maiden.
I am looking forward

tridente

I looked this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAgq4...e_gdata_player

At 3:17min after landing it looks like as both ailerons are set a little down like flaps.
Can anybody confirm that?

n8622t

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I had planned initially on a DA170 but have decided to wait on this beast

rowdog_14

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Man I would love to hear that bad boy!!!!!!!!!!

tridente

Hello,

i have 2 questions:

- Did you use the original shock-absorber in the landing gear ore other´s.
- What prop would you recommend me for the moki 250.

In my SU i flow a 32x18. this was perfekt. I read here, that the ground clearance maybe is with 32" to small...
A 30x20 is not available? The moki turns the 32x18 on floor between 1000 and 4.300 U/min.

tridente

The engine take seat

nexusdc5

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Hello Andreas... Yes the Stock Shock Absorbers Work well and I believe Everyone has been using them with no problems. Although with the Mokies up front the absorbers may need to be stiffened up a bit with a heavier spring or not, Still waiting to see what my finished weight is going to be with mine. I was chatting with Gotz at Aero-Scale, he knows these Mokies inside and out and he suggests going with the 30x20 Wood Prop. This will be the Most Efficient for this Engine, but also good speed. Your Moki Mount looks great. Here is mine.