Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
#1326
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RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
Wow, i think Hannes Gee Bee is the prettiest ever built!
Award winner!
And if there`s a model airplane god, i hope he saves his one....
Best wishes,
Wolfgang
Award winner!
And if there`s a model airplane god, i hope he saves his one....
Best wishes,
Wolfgang
#1331
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RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
Nice job Hannes...I didnt get to accomplish any GeeBee work today since there was a birthday party going on at my house...its ok though cause I got some points with my wife and those are worth a whole lot
Jimmy
Jimmy
#1333
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RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
@Rowdog 14....I watched your flight video of the GeeBee, first I would like to say that you did a great job of getting it on the ground and secondly...you are a wild man to fly that plane in that tree infested field Obviously not a problem for you since its your field but a visitor flying a GeeBee might just be handing you the sticks to fly it for him. Great Job Rowdog 14 and what prop did you run on your DLE170? My DA170 has some time on it and it rips a 30X12 like nobodies business...just curious...I couldnt wait for the DA250 four stroke, DA said January and that means March or later.[]
Jimmy
Jimmy
#1334
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RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
Can anyone help me. My comp Arf gee bee has a DLE 170 with a 30x12 prop. It weighs 33.4lbs. I have a major torque or p-factor problem. When I turn left or right it is difficult to get the plane to make the turn with out pitching up or staying in a knife edge. Should there be a gyro on the rudder or should I get use to this characteristic. Am I doing something wrong.
#1335
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RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
Bumblebee... WELCOME to the fascinating world of piloting a scale Gee Bee R2
It is difficult to give you exact advice designed to cure your issue.... FIRST, are you positive that the following are PERFECT??
Dihedral - minimum 4.5 degrees each wing and EQUAL
CG - 17-18% of chord? This equates to 73mm - 75mm back from the leading edge
Minimal rudder throws - the rudder is VERY effective on this plane
PERFECT rudder linkage with NO SLOP
Digital servos w/minimum 150 in. oz. torque
Aircraft is trimmed for hands off, level and straight flight at 3/4 throttle
Flying wires are "guitar string" tight?
Your engine, prop and weight are perfect, but the extra HP will indeed add some P-factor. Compared to a DA150 the affects will be minimal.
Once ALL of the above are confirmed, you MUST mix some right rudder with your throttle. The total amount of rudder throw from neutral is about 2mm. The rudder should NOT begin mixing until you reach approx. 50% POWER... at that point, the rudder should mix in a linear fashion until at full power you have 2mm right rudder deflection.
Assuming you get all of this correct, you will likely find that flying this airplane IS a continuous compromise. As Delmar Benjamin confirmed, it is UNSTABLE in PITCH and in YAW. Correcting this required an expert pilot sitting IN the cockpit sensing every deviation... we on the ground do not have the ability to sense subtle changes.
A GYRO would be a great addition, but simply adding a gyro will not fix the issues unless you have the gyro perfectly tuned to offset the Gee Bee's tendencies... this will take trial and error... and the by the time you have it dialed in, you will be an EXPERT Gee Bee pilot and may no longer need a gyro
It is difficult to give you exact advice designed to cure your issue.... FIRST, are you positive that the following are PERFECT??
Dihedral - minimum 4.5 degrees each wing and EQUAL
CG - 17-18% of chord? This equates to 73mm - 75mm back from the leading edge
Minimal rudder throws - the rudder is VERY effective on this plane
PERFECT rudder linkage with NO SLOP
Digital servos w/minimum 150 in. oz. torque
Aircraft is trimmed for hands off, level and straight flight at 3/4 throttle
Flying wires are "guitar string" tight?
Your engine, prop and weight are perfect, but the extra HP will indeed add some P-factor. Compared to a DA150 the affects will be minimal.
Once ALL of the above are confirmed, you MUST mix some right rudder with your throttle. The total amount of rudder throw from neutral is about 2mm. The rudder should NOT begin mixing until you reach approx. 50% POWER... at that point, the rudder should mix in a linear fashion until at full power you have 2mm right rudder deflection.
Assuming you get all of this correct, you will likely find that flying this airplane IS a continuous compromise. As Delmar Benjamin confirmed, it is UNSTABLE in PITCH and in YAW. Correcting this required an expert pilot sitting IN the cockpit sensing every deviation... we on the ground do not have the ability to sense subtle changes.
A GYRO would be a great addition, but simply adding a gyro will not fix the issues unless you have the gyro perfectly tuned to offset the Gee Bee's tendencies... this will take trial and error... and the by the time you have it dialed in, you will be an EXPERT Gee Bee pilot and may no longer need a gyro
#1336
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RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
Andreas,
I STRESS in the manual that your flying wires MUST BE PERFECT.
All solder joints must be SILVER (or brazed, which is better) and absolutely PERFECT.
The flying wires are the ONLY THING holding this airplane together...
Very sorry to hear about your loss[]
I STRESS in the manual that your flying wires MUST BE PERFECT.
All solder joints must be SILVER (or brazed, which is better) and absolutely PERFECT.
The flying wires are the ONLY THING holding this airplane together...
Very sorry to hear about your loss[]
#1337
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RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
Thanks RichardGee I'm going to go over the plane and check everthing you recommended. I flew it 9 times last year and didnt notice an problem at the time. I nosed over on the 9th flight and broke the top of the tail. Its been repaired but.... i almost beleve my rudder cables need to be tighten and i've never flown with and thrttle/ rudder mix.
#1338
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RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
ORIGINAL: n8622t
@Rowdog 14....I watched your flight video of the GeeBee, first I would like to say that you did a great job of getting it on the ground and secondly...you are a wild man to fly that plane in that tree infested field Obviously not a problem for you since its your field but a visitor flying a GeeBee might just be handing you the sticks to fly it for him. Great Job Rowdog 14 and what prop did you run on your DLE170? My DA170 has some time on it and it rips a 30X12 like nobodies business...just curious...I couldnt wait for the DA250 four stroke, DA said January and that means March or later.[]
Jimmy
@Rowdog 14....I watched your flight video of the GeeBee, first I would like to say that you did a great job of getting it on the ground and secondly...you are a wild man to fly that plane in that tree infested field Obviously not a problem for you since its your field but a visitor flying a GeeBee might just be handing you the sticks to fly it for him. Great Job Rowdog 14 and what prop did you run on your DLE170? My DA170 has some time on it and it rips a 30X12 like nobodies business...just curious...I couldnt wait for the DA250 four stroke, DA said January and that means March or later.[]
Jimmy
#1339
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RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
ORIGINAL: RichardGee
Andreas,
I STRESS in the manual that your flying wires MUST BE PERFECT.
All solder joints must be SILVER (or brazed, which is better) and absolutely PERFECT.
The flying wires are the ONLY THING holding this airplane together...
Very sorry to hear about your loss[]
Andreas,
I STRESS in the manual that your flying wires MUST BE PERFECT.
All solder joints must be SILVER (or brazed, which is better) and absolutely PERFECT.
The flying wires are the ONLY THING holding this airplane together...
Very sorry to hear about your loss[]
your manual was a great help to build the geebee - thanks again for this.
The guy who build my geebee did 99% very good. The 1% was soldering of one flying wire.
Befor maiden i checked everything. The soldering was with silver, it also looked good, but you cannot look inside
However, today i know, that my engine is OK. Only some pushrods and screws to adjust the valve´s was out of order.
I build the moki inside a used senior geebee y - this sunday is maiden [8D]
#1341
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RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
Geebee R2
flies fast
is veeery pretty
you can put it into a normal car
Geebee Y
flies booring like a cessna
is a little bit ugly
you need a truck to transport her
Maybe i need a little bit time to get in love to the Y...
flies fast
is veeery pretty
you can put it into a normal car
Geebee Y
flies booring like a cessna
is a little bit ugly
you need a truck to transport her
Maybe i need a little bit time to get in love to the Y...
#1350
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RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K
Hey Guys
I have been reading this thread from start to finish and I have found it to be great aswell as helpfull.
I too have now joined the CARF Gee Bee club. I bought mine second hand but it had not been started. I have been doing work to it over the last couple of weeks and am now starting to mount the engine.
I am using the DA-150 as this seems to be the most used. The wings are mounted, the stab is ready to glue in and the rudder is also fitted.
I am yet to mount the door but that will come last.
I do have one question though as I may have missed reading it in the thread. For the engine dome is there any bearing for the top dead center? There were 3 dots on the front of the dome which I originally thought were for setting the center but if I go by those it seems to have a slight up thrust aswell as right thrust. Any help would be greatful.
I will post some pics as I progress.
Cheers
All4scale
I have been reading this thread from start to finish and I have found it to be great aswell as helpfull.
I too have now joined the CARF Gee Bee club. I bought mine second hand but it had not been started. I have been doing work to it over the last couple of weeks and am now starting to mount the engine.
I am using the DA-150 as this seems to be the most used. The wings are mounted, the stab is ready to glue in and the rudder is also fitted.
I am yet to mount the door but that will come last.
I do have one question though as I may have missed reading it in the thread. For the engine dome is there any bearing for the top dead center? There were 3 dots on the front of the dome which I originally thought were for setting the center but if I go by those it seems to have a slight up thrust aswell as right thrust. Any help would be greatful.
I will post some pics as I progress.
Cheers
All4scale