Hill202

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There is not alot of info here on this plane so I thought I would start a build thread. My plane gets here tomorrow. This is my first plane of this size so I hope more experienced people will jump in with some advice. I think most of my questions will be about the electronics. I plan on posting as many pics as possible with as much detail as I can.

My set-up so far:

DA 120
Futaba R6014 RX

Everthing else is still un-decided. I am considering 9156 servos with 9157 on the rudder. The manual only calls for 7 servos, plus a throttle servo. I thought it strange it only has one servo per control surface but like I said this is my first plane of this size.

Here are some pics of the engine. I'll post plane pics when it arrives.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Nice. You'll be fine with one servo on the ailerons. My scratch built profile bipe has about the same specs as the Beast and it does fine with one 8611a on each aileron. That 120 will be just right. Plenty of power.

Hill202

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Thanks Mr Bigg. I have also got to figure out what exhaust to use on the engine.

Up to now, I have only flown 25% planes. I have only used Nimh batteries. Its time I learned about some of the new battery technology out there. I'm thinking about trying one of the smart fly systems but I'm not sure which one I should use.

mrbigg

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I'd go A123. That's what I switched over to after using Li-Ions. My opinion is that power systems are a waste of money and another point of failure. Do a search and you'll see. Others love them.

I've custom wired many planes and have yet had any issues. This is how I have my big bipe and Edge wired. Every servo gets plugged directly into the reciever. I run two 2300 packs for the RX and one 2300 for the ignition. I take the four tail servo extensions and cut the postive and negative wires on each (they are still plugged into the receiver). Next I take the postive and negative leads coming out of the switch (one of the switches, running two) and solder them onto the cut extensions. What this does is provide direct current to the servos and to the receiver at the same time without having to rely on the receiver as a distribution block. On the bipe, I did the same thing for the ailerons, on the Edge, I just plugged the other switch out lead into the receiver being as there is only two aileron servos. I really like this set up because I'm not overtaxing the distribution system (receiver, in my case) and the servos get direct power from the batteries. Only takes about a half hour to do and I've didn't have to spend a bunch of money on another possible failure point.

Hill202

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Why can't I just plug the 2 a123 batteries and 2 switches directly into the rx?

mrbigg

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You could, but then the RX has the duties of distributing all the current to them high draw, digital servos. I'm sure have done this, but many elect to purchase some type of power block. You trying to avoid a RX brown out. I've seen it done on 50cc planes with 5 main servos for the flight surfaces. These were 8611a servos that were around 300oz of torque. These newer ones are 400oz plus. You'll also be adding 2 more servos for a total of 7.

K-Bob

My Feedback: (1)

You can and most do. I run 9 Futaba 9157s through dual 6014 Futaba receivers. Running your power through the receiver will not cause a brown out to the receiver as the receiver is merely a bus for power, no different than a battery connector.

There is a long and very detailed build thread on the Beast in the Leading Edge forum over on F-L-Y-I-N-G G-I-A-N-T-S. Get a good switch like a Wolverine switch with dual input and dual output. Leave the NiMh batteries back in the last decade and move up to A123s.

You'll love the Beast.

Hill202

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I need a bigger room

and stand...

Hill202

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I've read the thread on that other site, lots of good info there. I'm going to give a more detailed first impression with photos later.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

What causes all the brown outs?

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

It's time to quit staring at it and start putting it together. The first step is hinging the rudder and installing ther vertical stab. Pretty straight forward. They have the hinges installed and you have to install the hinge wire, that was a pain. You have to take it slow and make sure you do not buckle the rod. Like I said the hardware is top notch and I plan on using most of it.

The control horn was a breeze to install and I'll adjust it further when I run the pull-pull cables.

Hill202

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More of rudder assembly...

Hill202

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The horizontal stab is next. I'm dreading that, as you have to thin CA it in and it better be right. You only get one shot. I'll measure probably 10 times before I glue. After that it's all pretty much screw together.

I'm still trying to decide between Futaba or Hitec servos. I've read so many negative things on Hitec servos and their centering issues, I'm hesitant to use them. Any input would be appreciated. The manual recommends 320oz on all surfaces and 400oz on rudder.

Hill202

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I was wrong, the landing gear was next. The manual would have you install the tires and wheel pants now but I like to do wheel pants last so they will not be in the way. I did exchange the supplied phillips head screws for socket head screws for the landing gear. This thing is pretty beefy. There are aluminum plates at the landing gear mount on the fuse. You can also see the installed DA canister mounts in one of the pics.

Hill202

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The horizontal stab came out good. They have half of it hinged so you can insert it through the fuse. I measured probably 25 times. I need to glue the hinges on the other half. I think the cabane and mid-wing section are next. Thats all bolt-on so it should be a breeze.

Hill202

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The wing tubes are tight, too tight! Does anyone have a trick to loosen them up? Maybe baby powder?

Hill202

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Mid-wing section and cabanes are installed. Straight forward installation. Lock tite the bolts. They did make slots to allow access for your ball driver.

Flying wires and tailwheel are next.

Hill202

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Tailwheel and flying wires tab installed. There were blind nuts in the fuse for the tailwheel. The hardware continues to impress me, carbon fiber tailwheel assembly.

davidgeorge212

I noticed that too on my Beast. I never ended up doing anything about it and have been assembling and flying my Beast for a little while now. At first they really do seem to tight, but now, after a dozen flights or so, I do not notice as much tightness as before. The tubes still fit snuggly but I think the sockets are wearing in a little at a time which is making the tubes go in easier.

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

Thanks, that's good to hear. How do you like the plane?

davidgeorge212

I see your putting a DA 120 on yours, I just went with a DA 100 which still gives me plenty of power to work with. I dont do much in the line of 3d but I do a lot of sport flying with it. I really love how well The Hanger 9 Beast flies and the landings are nice and easy. I think you do need to keep just a little power on while landing because it can slow down fairly quickly in the air if you dont. I put a 32 oz smoke tank in my Beast and use it quite a bit as a crowd pleaser. Everyone at the field loves to watch it fly as well.

David

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

I'm sure that 100 is plenty for it. I'm not much of a 3D guy either. I'm still considering a smoke system. I finally decided on futaba 9156 servos and 9157 on the rudder. What power system are you using?

davidgeorge212

I have am using 2 LiFe batteries which power a smart fly board. I am using a Futaba 14 channel reciever (the one that came with my Futaba 12FG radio.) I am running all Hitec 7955 servos for the ailerons and elevator and I have one Hitec 7950 for the rudder. I have one more LiFe battery that runs my smoke pump and a NiMh battery for my ignition.

davidgeorge212

With my setup, I have a 32 ounce gas tank and a 32 ounce smoke tank. With two 32 ounce tanks, I have them stacked one on top of the other in the upper forward compartment. It is a tight fit when you have them slid in there and are trying to strap them down to keep them from moving. I probably should have gone with a slightly smaller smoke tank.

davidgeorge212

One other thing I just rememberd was that I had a problem with one of the aileron linkages. I took off one time and was flying around and couldnt tell anything in the world was wrong with the plane. When I landed however, I noticed that one of my ailerons was drooping down and was no longer connected to the pushrod. When I looked at the aileron linkages on the control horn, the nut and screw had loosened up and fell completely out. The moral I learned from that story is dont just assume the factory control horn linkages that they give you are ready to go. You need to check each of the screws in the linkages to make sure they are tight and even put a little thread locker or ca glue on them so they dont get loose. On a positive note, I still had 3 working ailerons and the plane still flew great even though one was droopin down in the breeze.