Eagle Aviation One Design Build
#51
Thread Starter
RE: Eagle Aviation One Design Build
The build is right where the last post left off. Lost a little interest when we lost our field and I have a Godfrey One Design flying about the same size. Still trying to get back http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11232686/tm.htm
I have a few mis-positioned copies that should work for you, let me clean the bench and check.
I have a few mis-positioned copies that should work for you, let me clean the bench and check.
#52
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Join Date: Dec 2002
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RE: Eagle Aviation One Design Build
Well I see you have.still been busy per your link. You are true craftsman like me not a lot of guys nuts enough like us to "redo" an entire ARF. Real bummer about your field, sorry to hear that news. No rush on the plans any help would be appreciated. Keep up the great work on your other builds keep the posts coming. Regards, Bob
#54
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Hi Tony - Hope you are doing well...I still have the One Design plans, but would like to use this foam method for a 33% Ulery Laser.
I have two questions...In the opening sequence, were the foam rib blanks glued to the board with poly glue?
I will need to build one of these foam cutting rigs....Did you develop yours on your own, or can you point me to a link that you worked from. Talk to you later.
Gordon
I have two questions...In the opening sequence, were the foam rib blanks glued to the board with poly glue?
I will need to build one of these foam cutting rigs....Did you develop yours on your own, or can you point me to a link that you worked from. Talk to you later.
Gordon
#55
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Hi Tony - Hope you are doing well...I still have the One Design plans, but would like to use this foam method for a 33% Ulery Laser.
I have two questions...In the opening sequence, were the foam rib blanks glued to the board with poly glue?
I will need to build one of these foam cutting rigs....Did you develop yours on your own, or can you point me to a link that you worked from. Talk to you later.
Gordon
I have two questions...In the opening sequence, were the foam rib blanks glued to the board with poly glue?
I will need to build one of these foam cutting rigs....Did you develop yours on your own, or can you point me to a link that you worked from. Talk to you later.
Gordon
#56
Thread Starter
The blanks are held to the jig by parting strips nailed on each side. I put a dab of wood glue to hold it in place. You can see these in the photo attached. I hope I answered your question. You digging deep into the old posts, two today?
Last edited by Tony Hallo; 09-01-2014 at 05:40 PM.
#57
Thread Starter
I might add I recently purchased covering for this build from Hobby King, got http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._5mtr_113.html,
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._5mtr_109.html,
and http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...410_5mtr_.html.
Building season is just around the corner.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._5mtr_109.html,
and http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...410_5mtr_.html.
Building season is just around the corner.
#61
Thread Starter
And the final colors applied. I will write my thoughts about the Hobby King covering after I finish the airplane. So far it works better than I anticipated.
Last edited by Tony Hallo; 12-22-2014 at 05:24 PM.
#62
Thread Starter
I had to go a little backward. I had forgot that I modified the center section of the fuselage so that it looked better. This resulted in the need for extensions at the root of the trailing edges. Should have installed before covering. I really don't want to start out on new build with a patch job so I decided to remove the covering, install the extensions, let recover, Since a 5 meter roll is only $10, cost was not a factor. I can report that the covering comes off well with little to no damage to substrate. It was stuck well and released by applying heat from a heat gun. The photo on the right displays the gap at the trailing edge.
Last edited by Tony Hallo; 12-22-2014 at 05:26 PM.
#64
Thread Starter
Hobby King Covering Pro's and Con's
Pro
Low cost
Looks good, nice shine, not quite as shinny as Monokote
Shrinks good, like Ultrakote.
Sticks well, I did treat the balsa with hair spray during final sand.
Con
No frill packaging, no instructions
The colors have white backing that makes a white line where shrunk excessively. My experience here is with light blue and neon green only. Other colors may not have the white backing
Very difficult to get backing off the light blue covering. Once you did the backing continued to follow me around the shop. Very high static charge. The white backing released very easy, neon green took a little more work and the light blue was just plain crazy.
Time in the sun will be the final judge, I don't this will happen before May however.
Pro
Low cost
Looks good, nice shine, not quite as shinny as Monokote
Shrinks good, like Ultrakote.
Sticks well, I did treat the balsa with hair spray during final sand.
Con
No frill packaging, no instructions
The colors have white backing that makes a white line where shrunk excessively. My experience here is with light blue and neon green only. Other colors may not have the white backing
Very difficult to get backing off the light blue covering. Once you did the backing continued to follow me around the shop. Very high static charge. The white backing released very easy, neon green took a little more work and the light blue was just plain crazy.
Time in the sun will be the final judge, I don't this will happen before May however.
Last edited by Tony Hallo; 12-22-2014 at 05:22 PM.
#66
Thread Starter
Thanks for the comment.
Attached is the final version I hope, who knows what else might be forgotten? That's what happens when you set them aside for a while.
Attached is the final version I hope, who knows what else might be forgotten? That's what happens when you set them aside for a while.
#67
Thread Starter
Another thing I forgot about was wing retention. I could have done this with the wing covered but this is much better. I drilled a wood block in the drill press to act as a drill jig. This was used to drill through the spar, wing tube and socket. I turned a 4-40 stainless screw so that a 3/16" brass tube slip over the head and act as a guide. The sharpen brass tube was used to counter bore the hole to recess the screw heads.
There's no need to remove the hatch at the field, slip the wing on, plug in the servo, and install the screw.
The wings are now re-sanded and ready for covering again!
There's no need to remove the hatch at the field, slip the wing on, plug in the servo, and install the screw.
The wings are now re-sanded and ready for covering again!
Last edited by Tony Hallo; 12-28-2014 at 08:01 AM.
#68
Thread Starter
I'm using Aeroworks control horns. These take me back to the days when standard 2-56 hardware was doubled up since no Giant Scale hardware was available. The surfaces are 3/8" thick and I was having trouble coming up with a method the add a plywood plate. I decided to use heavy duty Sullivan Ny-Rods instead. This seems to work very well. 2-56 screws will hold the horns in place. Short pieces of the inner rod are CA'ed in place. The horns straddle the inner hinge.
#69
Thread Starter
Hobby King covering applied on top of itself, lessons learned. I covered the horizontal with white then laid out the spacing for the strips. We know that Monokote will stick to itself when wetted with window cleaner and Ultrakote does not work. Didn't what to expect here so it was a little trail and error. My first attempt was simply ironing the covering to itself starting with low heat then slowing increasing the temperature after each pass. This resulted in bubbles and an unacceptable finish so off it came. You see what happens when you remove the covering. The glue and the color stay behind. Quickly removed with acetone.
Last edited by Tony Hallo; 12-31-2014 at 02:44 AM.
#70
Thread Starter
The second attempt was the Ultrakote method I recently viewed on Utube. Wet on the piece with glass cleaner, squeegee out the liquid, then heat. Of course produced unacceptable results.
#71
Thread Starter
Finally I tried wetting out the part, squeegee the liquid out, and then left the part dry for two hours. Starting at 170f iron, begin to attach the covering while slowing increasing the temperature. I found if bubble would I could eliminate by shrinking with a trim iron set on high. It's perfect but it is acceptable.
#73
Thread Starter
I was able to use the canopy from the Godfrey One design for this plane since they are the same size. When I bought the spare canopy some time ago Robert Godfrey told me I got the last one. Since I needed two, I had to made a plug to vacuum form additional copies. This was a new experience for me. I had to make an oven and vacuum equipment. I took about six tries before good canopies were made. I used the canopy from Godfrey as a form for the plug. This was made with plaster and concrete mix.
#74
Thread Starter
The canopy frame was painted with automotive trunk paint and I used Weldbond to glue the canopy on the frame. This glue is similar to the old RC 56 canopy glue.
Last edited by Tony Hallo; 01-03-2015 at 04:20 AM.