tasesq

Hi

Can you tell me where i can get a copy of the plans?

I have recently purchased a share in a 100% sized one and I would love to build a matching 38%!!!

Happy to send you any pics of the real machine if you like - bearing in mind they are all a little different!

Tony Hallo

It has been so long since I looked at them, I'm not sure if I cut them up for templates or not. I may have access to a large scanner if they are still in good shape. I understand about being a little different though since these are home built. Post some photos of your real bird please!
I could make a cowl and pull a canopy, just need to work out the shipping details.

Tony Hallo

I'm using the lost foam method to make cooling ducting for the engine. The foam blocks are formed to shape then given two coats of Partall Coverall film (used as mold release for glass layups). This makes removing the foam easier, trust me I learned this from experience. I is much easier to remove the foam mechanically rather than chemically. Cheaper too.

Tony Hallo

The glass cloth is attached to the form with 3M 77 spray adhesive, I learned this trick from Karzy Karl at the fg site. Once wrapped. the cloth is saturated with epoxy resin, I'm using West System for this work.

Tony Hallo

Many years ago I brought vacuum formed landing gear cuffs ( on right) from Bob Godfrey at the Toledo show. I made a mold from one and continue to use these today, the glass parts are more durable. I laid the first of two up this morning.

Tony Hallo

Here's the left side cooling duct all fitted. The right side is curing.
Next, on to air extraction. I will be using vee shaped slots in the bottom of the fuselage and the cowl. The vee shaped slots are used on AeroWorks models. I don't know if the vee shape creates better extraction or not. But It looks better than a big hole. There is 12 square inches of intake. Each of the vee slots provides 2 square inches of exhaust, I will probally end up with 8 slots or 16 square inches of exhaust area. I know the standard is 3 to 1, but you can get by with less with proper ducting. My Godfrey One Design is flying with 1 to 1. Head temps are 270 in vertical up lines.
I have these mufflers http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=44628on order from Hobby King. The exhaust tubing will be KS stainless steel 25 cm tubes and elbows. I plan to roll the outlets 90 degrees and make a single dump pipe installed similar the full scale show below.

Tony Hallo

While working in this area I upgraded the spark wires. The D&B engines use resistor plug wires, the plug ends installed could move freely and generate noise. With the shielded wires and caps used today, electrical noise is no worry at all. The braid was ordered from McMaster Carr and the new ends came from Hobby King. I used the original resistor wire. The finshed product can be in the first photo above.

tasesq

hi Tony,

That would be fantastic if you could rustle something up! I would love to have a 100% and a 38% one!!!

this is our little machine. A shedload of fun.


Some more photos are here for you if they are helpful at all. The spats are standard RV spats and a custom cowl. Tip over canopy. Also has wingtip extensions (not all 1D's have these) as well as wing root cuffs and landing gear leg cuffs. We also changed the tailwheel to a straight spring and put on a 6" locking haigh style tailwheel. Prop is a whirlwind 200. We've got both elevator servo tabs connected, some guys only have one. Some have a small shopping trolley castoring tailwheel.

Pics should all be here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...underneath.JPG I can't readily check that link works because i am in a country at the moment where dropbox is blocked

Tony Hallo

Very nice, the link doesn't work for me, get error 404. The cowl more like the current breed of aerobatic planes. I like it. Please fix the link when you get back home.

tasesq

Back in civilisation: http://www.dropbox.com/sh/rp7vfujs27...4EClScLsa?dl=0

If you want any specific ones for detailing etc, just let me know and i'll see if i have something, or can take one next time i am out having fun.

Tony Hallo

The attached photo gives one the perspective of the actual size. The rudder post is as tall as the man in the photo (you?) on his knees! What is the diameter of the exhaust collector? Great photos thanks for sharing as well. Still looking for plans, my bench is covered with the plane right and I need to make room to look through my collection in the rafters.

gordon_mcln

My Feedback: (2)

Tony- Your plane looks excellent.....Great job on the build.

I have a copy of your plans which I could get either scanned or copied. I will look at them tonight and get back to the thread.

Regards,

Gordon

tasesq

Hi Tony,

Not me - that was the bloke we purchased her off.

We have the 3in1 exhaust. I would say the diameter is around 5-6" or so? The top of our fin is not around 1" higher as we have a straight wheel spring on now (wheel was too close to the rudder to stand our hard landings at the start!). This thing drops our of the sky in a radid fashion if you get too slow - hopefully the model performs better.

What was your reasoning for leaving some of the sheeting off the wing before covering in film?

tasesq

tasesq

Just put some nice 3 views from the designer into that dropbox folder if it is helpful.

tasesq

Oh oh... The fault rests squarely with you Tony - I found those 3 views and...



I would love to still see the plans though if someone has them!

On the eagle plans, does it say what airfoil was used for 38% scale? At the moment the drawnings are in 1:1 - once i know the airfoil i can make a decision on scale and go from there...

Tony Hallo

Tasesq,
The wings are open bay design with D tube formed by the spars, shear web, and sheeting ahead of the spar. The wings are foam ribbed similar to build up wing on a full scale plane with stitched fabric covering. Foam core wings are normally fully sheeted with 1/16" balsa, I used 3/32" for mine. The design of the wing is suitable for my flying style, I have used this method in many aerobatic plane starting with a 33% Laser 200 back in 1992. I hope this answers your question. The airfoil Frank Knoll selected for this plane is rather odd, rather than use a foil from a previous build I decided to use what was shown on the plan, the airfoil is 11.7% thick with the high point at 40% of the cord.

Tony Hallo

Gordon,
Good to hear from you again, have you started the Decatlon?

tasesq

Thanks Tony. Does it have a NACA number or similar which i cal look up in profili? If you would also be able to let me know the chord at the root at the tip, and the wingspan?

Thanks very much.

gordon_mcln

My Feedback: (2)

Tony- Have not started slinging glue yet, but have begun cutting the parts.....

Tony Hallo

Attached are photos of the root and tip, the root is 23", the wing panel is 40 1/4". The will be 80 and 1/2" plus the fuselage. The tip photo clearly shows the airfoil shape, the rule is aligned to leading edge. I have no idea how it will perform.

tasesq

That is great, Tony. Thank you.

Interesting airfoil they have chosen there. I have done some reading here: http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/onedesaf/1desaf.htm as well as here: http://www.colinusher.info/Model%20A...%20design.html and it is evident that the real aircraft uses an airfoil which is pretty close to the NACA 0016 airfoil. The second side the builder has chosen to go with the NACA 0016. I had a go at drawing the original airfoil as per the first site, and the airfoil comparisons are below:

Frank Noll's against the example from the first website:


The Colin Usher plan airfoil against the example from the first website:


Fairly different hey!! I am tending to think i would be better off with the Colin Usher one, as it look closer to that which was created from the description on the first website. Having said that, a full scale airfoil doesn't really normally work on a scale aircraft.. but since this is pretty close to a NACA 0016.. what do you think?

I know that the Frank Noll kit has many flying examples though. What airfoils have you used in the past on your aerobatic birds?

Tony Hallo

I have read that this one is good http://airfoiltools.com/airfoil/details?airfoil=e169-il for models since it is low Reynolds number. I have used the NACA 00XX series for several builds both for the wing, stabilizer, and rudder but to be honest I normally use the foil shown on the plan. The full scale airfoil looks a lot like an Extra airfoil to me as shown http://www.f3m.com/3view/Imagenes/fa...tra%20300S.jpg.

The NACA 0016 looks more scale, I would use it.

Tony Hallo

Spending some time on the bottom side. Made a cover for the landing gear, fit the cuffs, installed the cooling slots for engine cooling, there are two additional cooling slots on the cowl. Once I flipped it over I decided to replace the 1/4" balsa longerons with carbon fiber arrow shafts. I visit to local archery shop yielded a dozen damaged arrow shafts for free. I really could find anything wrong with them. The arrow shafts are much stronger and straighter. The balsa was petty wavy, I must of had a few Miller Lites when I glued them on! The longerons are straight as an arrow now. I turned short pieces of dowel to the id of the arrow shafts for gluing two shafts together, these joints are located on top of the former.

Tony Hallo

I put the plane back on it front and hind legs and glassed the cooling ducts into the cowl. I wanted to get this done so that I can set the engine aside and get the fuselage ready for covering. I still need to put hard points in for the tail wires and tubes for the rudder pull-pull. Then final sand and cover.
My first grandchild arrived on Wednesday morning, Benjamin Daniel Hallo, this has slowed production somewhat. Hopefully I can teach him to fly one day. That would be great.