Tony Hallo

The muffler sets arrived from Hobby King yesterday. I couldn't play with them because my grandson visited. This morning I decided they could use a little shorting. They are sized for 50 to 60 cc cylinders so I decided to keep the same cylinder volumes for my 83 cc with 42 cc cylinders. I calculated the 60 cc volumes at 12, this allowed me to shorten the length by 3". I wanted to keep the back of the muffler away from the carbon fiber wing tube. I used a pipe cutter to score the tube and finish the cut with a Zona Saw. In the case of this muffler you get what you pay for. The mufflers are a dual chamber with one large volume, a single baffle into a 15mm outlet tube. Other brands might have 3 to 4 chambers with baffles and reversal. I'm happy with these however.

Tony Hallo

The muffler was brazed together, I cut the stub out in the lathe.

Tony Hallo

The end cap was brazed on with Harris 1070 Al-braze. Not as good as the original but good enough for me. There's a fine line between flowing the filler wire and melting the base metal.

Tony Hallo

I started to make the canister supports today, I had a few minutes before the January meeting of the Indiana Flyers Club. I was recently elected president so this my first meeting as such. The tubing is high temperature silicon I ordered from McMaster Carr, great place to stuff like that, fast as well. I plan to hold the tubing in by drilling a hole through the tube and plywood support then wire tie. The plate is 1/4" aircraft ply, it will screwed in for future servicing.

Tony Hallo

The canister supports are complete, The supports are removable to make the task of replacing the silicon tubing easier if needed. Next up is to build the headers. I want to visit the weld supply and see if they have different flux for stainless steel. The flux I have used in the pass turns black when cooled. Might visit during lunch today.

tasesq

Very cool exhaust - almost looks like the real thing...

I am heading out to the aircraft tomorrow - if you want any specific photos of anything let me know.

Tony Hallo

I had two used exhaust stubs but decided to use the stubs that came with the muffler set. The supplied pipes are too long for my use. I cut the pipes off, chucked the stubs up in the lathe and counter bored to accept the 25 mm K-S tubes. I did manage to get different flux at the welding supply store. We'll know how it works out. The dry fitting process has begun.

Tasesq,
I hope you have fun, thanks for the offer but I think I'm in good shape. Do you plan to fly or do a little work?

tasesq

Had a go at my new free - first time in a month.. bit rusty and no g tolerance (got a bit grey) but just need work to leave me alone some more!

Then did the 25 hr oil change... but dropped the sump plug cap into the funnel... doh.



BTW - what are you going to do for flying wires? The real thing? Cheap as chips really: http://www.flying-wires.ch/flying-wi...celist_en.html

tasesq

One more question Tony, where did you source your landing gear? (are they 2 separate pieces?)

Tony Hallo

The gear is one piece that was supplied by T-N-T Landing Gear http://www.tntlandinggear.com/. In the photo it bolts to the two pieces of 1"x1"x1/8" aluminum angle in the corners of the engine box.
For the wires I plan to use DuBro landing gear straps for the fittings, 2-56 nylon clevis with the pin removed and drilled for a 2-56 button head screw, 2-56 rigging connectors and .032" stainless steel down rigger cable with crimps, the cable and crimps come from the salt water fishing shops that I buy when on vacation. They are functional. I am using this arrangement on my other One Design of the same size as this build and is shown in the photo below, well that's not totally true, it looks like the one below, that one when to landfill some time ago! The one shown below was designed by Bob and Robert Godfrey, father and son team from Precision Aircraft. They built many planes for the TOC long before ARF's came on the scene.
I seen the red, white, black plane fly at Oshkosh WI many years ago when it first hit the scene. It was shown on the 2/94 Sprot Aviation cover.

Tony Hallo

The exhaust is silver soldered together, the black flux seemed to work better than the white, cleaned better while soldering and afterwards. The label states it is for stainless so I expect that is the reason. It was worth the $10 investment. The I installed #4 screws though the clamp slot and Teflon coupler the locate the canisters fore and aft and radially. This should keep the canisters in place.
Next up is engine management, i.e., throttle and choke.

tasesq

Thanks Tony,

That method makes a lot of sense, I like it.

Why do you replace the pin on the nylon clevis with a screw?

Do you put a bolt through the straps? (I assume you bend them to suit).

Do you need any brass tube etc in the ply to stop the bolt moving or the hole elongating?

thanks!

Tony Hallo

I mocked up the wire attachment below. The nylon clevis needs a piece of tubing to keep closed under high stress, the #2 screw is better for this application. The hole side is drilled for clearance and I make a small hole to accept the treaded end. Once screwed tight I knock the point off the screw on the disc sander. This is a very strong and light weight set up, much better than the nylon pin. The landing strap is bent to the proper angle as you suggested. The attachment point on the surfaces is a 1/4" dowel rod center drilled for a 2-56 machine screw. The dowels are located in the gussets on the vertical fin and horizontal surface, these are CA'd in place and flush sanded. I installed two 1/4" plywood plates on the bottom of the fuselage to attach the wires.

Work continues on the engine controls, I wanted the servos away from the heat of the engine and mufflers, I decided to mount the servos on the engine box side. The control cable is .045" music wire using a nyrod inner rod as the outer sheath. I drilled the 2-56 couplers to accept the wire, they were originally drilled for 1/32" wire. I hoping the metal doesn't change the trim as it heats.

Tony Hallo

The fuel tank is a 20 ounce water bottle. For the tube connections, I soldered 5/32" K&S tubing to a .025" copper plate and drilled the original cap for the tubes to exit. The bottle to plate joint is sealed with Seal All. This is the first time I have used Seal All. Looks like old model cement. I don't except it will come apart.
The bottle mount is made from aircraft ply wood and 1/4" lite ply. The cap is supported on the ring with holes provided to keep the vent up. The rear support is held in with 2 servo screws. The bottle is mounted above the canisters forward of the cockpit area.

Tony Hallo

I pulled the trigger on the remainder of the servos yesterday. Hobby King had a sale on most items. I was surprised to find these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...0_14s_74g.html for $64 each. I got 5 plus 3 - 1 1/4" single and 1 - 3.6" double aluminum arms shipped for $359.
I had previously purchased two of these for evaluation. I could find no reason not to buy more. I ran both on the bench using the servo function on the radio transmitter, no problems, heated up 10f after a hour. The lash measured .010" at 1 1/4", feels like a Hitec 7955. Attempted to measure the torque but my 16# spring scale ran out of travel, I need to borrow a friends 50# digital. I ganged both together and ran them over the entire travel range, could stop anywhere and the current would drop to zero.
I will feel better when I get a few flights on however. I felt the same why when I switched to Hitec 5945's in 2002, they stood up to the task, I hope these do the same.

Tony Hallo

I am not sure if the rudder will be a push rod or a '"pull-pull" set up. I have the rails installed for the elevator servo already, these were glued to the sides before they were jointed, the rudder servo can go there if I need tail weight. I decided to add cable exits before covering this way where ever the servo ends up, the plane is ready. I drilled a 3/4" piece of scrap though about 5" with a 1/8" bit the long way. Once drilled, I cut the block at the proper angle to act a s drill guide. Then drilled with a 6" aviation length bit. I glued in short piece of Sullivan NyRod as an exit. AeroWorks planes use a similar set up. The plastic tub on steel cable is near fiction-less.

Tony Hallo

I began covering the fuselage, the white color covering is all one piece. The covering shrinks so well it was easy doing it in one piece. I was able to iron the green over top without any Windex. I set the iron at 200 f and ironed until all the bubbles were gone. I think I was too much of a hurry when I covered the stabilizer. It worked really well. I bought two roils of white, one green and one blue roll. I covered the wings twice and had enough white and green to finish the airplane. Not bad for $40! Just add the blue strips and finish the fin and rudder. There will not be much white and green left when all is done.

Tony Hallo

I just didn't like the looks of the J&J Tail wheel although is made beautifully. I first cut off the horns and finished off the sides on disc sander, still did like it. I then decided to modify the Ohio Superstar Haigh style to look more like the real thing while using the 1/4" titanium wire from the J&J since the plane is built for 1/4" wire. I found images on Google and started to modify. I used the wire, bearings, and 1/4" collar from the J&J.

tasesq

V nice!

Tony Hallo

I assume it is lockable, do you control this from the cockpit? Looks like an old tail wheel was remove?

Tony Hallo

HP Matt
Did you get the PM? It is unclear if it sent or not.

tasesq

Yep - swapped the old one for this one - bigger (better on the soft grass etc) and is lockable with a cowl flap handle in the cockpit. Works great.

Tony Hallo

Attached are a few shots of the finished flying wires. The ends are made as previously discuss. The wire is from Pro Bass shop in Myrtle Beach SC in the salt water section. I bought a fancy crimping tool several years ago that does a nice job.
I am working on a mold for the wheel pants. Once this is finished I can continue onward.

tasesq

Very nice!

Tony Hallo

My plant started a shutdown on 3/20/15, hope to wrap it up on 5/22/15 and get back to work on this bird. Not much more to do, need to get some base coat colors mixed for the paint work.