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Funtana 90 DLE 30 Setup

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Old 06-04-2015, 04:49 AM
  #26  
ahicks
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OK, sounds like you're good to go soldering, so I'm going to recommend the Rcexl switch as it's the least expensive (less than half the other one), and a small mod will let you power it from the same lead that controls it - usually channel 5, but whatever one you like. Shop around a little for the switch, they're generally 20 bucks or less.

I've attached the directions that come with it. Down at the very bottom, you'll see some picks of the mod. Chinglish directions are terrible/useless. If adding those 2 drops of solder to the board seem daunting, you can accomplish the same thing by splicing the wire marked "in" to the wire that plugs into the receiver. Red to red, and black to black.

To access that board, you cut the label along the seam on one side of the case. The halves are not glued, and with the seam split, the case will open right up. Nothing securing the board to the case. It will pop right out. You could also make the splice mentioned above in here if you're handy. -Al
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Old 06-04-2015, 05:20 AM
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K. I just ordered the opto switch. $13 on ebay, not bad.
What do you use for the jumper between battery cells? Then what do you use for shrink wrapping the cells together?
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Old 06-04-2015, 05:23 AM
  #28  
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So the opto switch is actuated by gear sw,but is it also connected right to the battery (for power)?
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Old 06-04-2015, 06:11 AM
  #29  
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Battery Jumper, most have tabs, but if not, a piece of quality wire works fine. When selecting wire size, just consider these things are capable of generating some pretty serious amperage. I glue the 2 cells together with CA, make my connections, and wrap the ends with electrical tape. If I had shrink wrap, I'd use it.

The mod discussed above sets the opti switch up to supply voltage to the ign. module through the same wires that are used to control the switch. The lead plugged into channel 5 on the receiver? After the mod, you'll have just 2 leads from the switch. One plugs into the receiver, the second to the ign. module.

Oh, and BTW. Watch your polarity on the batteries carefully. The CENTER terminal is GROUND on these!!!! -Al
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Old 06-04-2015, 07:04 AM
  #30  
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Default Funtana 90

Here's my 90 with a DLE 30 (not done and never fired I went with cutting about an inch off the firewall, adding tri stock around the inside and gluing a new firewall on, Then I added "side plates" to the firewall that are longer and putting tri stock on them.

I have not had time to work on this in awhile (or even fly any of my planes), My 3 year old, house/land and wife take up most of my time. It's close to being done I need to add my plywood motor box/gear stiffener and I think I may need to put a hole in the fire wall for the carb to breath through (it's only about a 1/2" away, Anyone have an opinion on that?). I can take some close up pics. if you want these are just what I have on my computer.
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Old 06-04-2015, 10:53 AM
  #31  
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Like this?
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Old 06-04-2015, 12:15 PM
  #32  
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Or is it like this?
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Old 06-04-2015, 12:52 PM
  #33  
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#2 would be your winner....
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Old 06-04-2015, 07:01 PM
  #34  
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Is this my dual switch i should use then?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...011461&alt=web
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:28 PM
  #35  
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And i need one of these? Or the components to make one?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...443804&alt=web
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Old 06-05-2015, 03:51 AM
  #36  
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The price of the switch in your link is about half the price I've seen on those. I've only used one for that reason. That's a great buy and it would work perfectly.

Here the switches I usually run:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXPNU2&P=ML


Regarding the balance/charge lead. There's one last trick in the bottom of my bag here. You could use something like the ones in your link - OR - you could use the white wire in a Futaba/JR type lead as your balance (3.3v) wire, so you wouldn't need a dedicated balance (3rd) lead. Black and red are your 6.6v positive and negative, white the 3.3v balance lead. This allows balance charging through the charge jack built into the switches (nice and tidy, without digging around for wires inside the fuse when charging). All you would need to do is make up an adapter for your charger, allowing it to plug into the side of your plane. As both leads would be wired identically, both charge jacks would be the same, so it would make no difference to the charger which charge jack port you were plugged into. In either case, it will have the wires it needs to function.

If you go this route, makes sure you cut the white wire on the output side of the switches - the side that leads to/powers the receiver. The receiver side of the switch uses white for signal, has no use for the 3.3v you'll be using on the battery side of the switches.

Please be very careful with polarity when messing with your charger/making adapters. Some are not protected, and a mistake might cause you to let the smoke out of it - killing it.

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Old 06-05-2015, 09:41 PM
  #37  
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Kfla...could you post pics of how you hooked up the throttle? My servo is on the other side of the engine from the throttle. Also, for filling the old motor mount holes, should i epoxy some dowels to make it stronger by the new holes? They're pretty close to each other.

I got the covering back on the fuse, just have to finish some small spots on the wings.
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Old 06-05-2015, 09:47 PM
  #38  
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Still looking for a new canopy and probably a new cowl too. .So if anyone has insight on that, that would be great.

Speaking of a cowl, how does one go about cutting that? Lots of measuring? Can you post pics if your cowl with the engine sticking out kfla?
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Old 06-05-2015, 09:52 PM
  #39  
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I have access to a faro arm (cmm) at work. .i think I'll be using that to get my measurements.
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Old 06-06-2015, 05:39 AM
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Ok. Won't need faro arm.

Next question is how spinners go on these 4 bolt prop hubs? Do they screw right into the shaft end? My engine is 6.37" from standoffs to where the prop is bolted. My cowl is 5" from tip to firewall. So I'm thinking take off 1.35", and if needed i can shim it out with a washer.
In guessing the prop spinner won't go further back than the prop back plate, correct?
Thanks again for all the help.
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Old 06-07-2015, 03:41 AM
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Many run single bolt prop adapters to avoid the hassle of drilling props.

Yes, prop back plate is used to locate engine correctly.
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Old 06-09-2015, 01:45 PM
  #42  
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The throttle is on the other side of the engine from the servo. Do most ppl use a throttle cable to run the gassers? Or should I re-mount the servo (I'd rather not have to).
Also, how do people run their chokes? I read one post about someone that ran a push rod out the front to turn the choke on?
And last, is it normal to have to put a muffler on after the cowl is already on? Just pop two holes in the side of the cowl for putting the muffler screws in? I was thinking I could find some little plugs to fill the holes then. I'm not going to pay $40 for a Pitts muffler.
It's almost ready to fly!
Thanks guys!
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Old 06-10-2015, 04:39 AM
  #43  
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Here's some pics. of my set up, and the orig. firewall that I cut off (I had a saito 180 on it before). There is also a pic of the cowl cut out for a 180 and I bought 2 new funtana 125 cowls and sanded the coating off 1 and painted it to match the 90. I still have a NIB X 100 The throttle cable will be zip tied or epoxied to the wing tube later.
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Old 06-10-2015, 07:11 AM
  #44  
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Awesome...Thanks for taking the pics.

I fixed up my cowl's old holes with a few layers of really light fiberglass. I'll have to paint it to match the fuse anyway.

I filled the old motor mount holes with wooden dowel plugs, then re-drilled my new holes where they were needed.

I received my opto switch yesterday, but still waiting on my other switch from China ( might be a week or so yet).
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Old 06-12-2015, 05:01 AM
  #45  
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What 2.4ghz RX's are people using? Just any full range with satellite? How about the AR6210? What's the consensus with the "Orange" rx's?
I have an FM radio setup for the plane, but I would rather run it with my DX6.
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Old 06-12-2015, 05:02 AM
  #46  
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http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...960610&alt=web
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:48 PM
  #47  
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Where do you guys mount the fuel dot/switches? Depends on cg?
I don't want too long of line going from dot to tank /fuel supply line right?
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:17 AM
  #48  
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AHicks, I was reading more about the A123 single pack setup...Someone mentioned "FOR 2.4GHZ ONLY!"
Why wouldn't this work with my 72mhz?
If I do need to bump up to a 2.4RX, what will I need? I have a DX6...Would any 2.4 full range with satellite work?

I'm struggling to locate material for my battery tabs...I should have just ordered nickel tabs when I ordered batteries...Ideas?

Thanks.
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Old 06-24-2015, 04:34 PM
  #49  
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Fuel dot and switch mount usually go on RH side, somewhere between leading edge of wing and the back side of the cowl on my planes. Purely personal taste. Length of line leading to dot not important as long as it doesn't get hung up on anything.

72mhz not nearly as forgiving when it comes to functioning around things that spark or control/create sparks. Yes, it's possible to get them to work. It's not like we couldn't use ignition engines until 2.4 came out. 2.4 allows us to take many shortcuts you aren't going to get away with on 72. A single battery setup is an example of something I would approach with great caution if on 72.

I REALLY hesitate to make radio (or servo/receiver) suggestions, but since you mentioned the DX-6, it will work fine, but I'd suggest the Dx-7s wouldn't be that much more, and is much more radio for your dollar if you're buying a transmitter. Also, I'm using 7 channels on a plane like this one. Each control surface gets it's own channel (for unlimited potential when it come to slave and mixing setups), plus throttle and opto switch. The reason I hesitate is I've had pretty good luck with stuff others might call junk. I think a person's willingness to buy something like that depends on their degree of paranoia, and how affordable the aircraft they're working on might be? In any case, I don't want to hear about a plane that went in, or just doesn't work, using something I recommended.

Have a junk battery with heavy duty leads (that might have plugged into an ESC) laying around? That high quality stranded wire (usually w/silicone jacket) make great "tabs". Just cut an inch off and use that for your tab. If not, it's not like you need battery cable or anything. Any quality wire, maybe twice the size of what you plan on using for power leads, would work fine. -Al
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Old 06-24-2015, 04:56 PM
  #50  
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Thanks Al.

I went to the local club today to talk to someone about the setup.
When i mentioned the single battery, I received a collective gasp followed by "NOOOOOO".

So now i think I'm going to use that a123 for rx (if my gear can handle it), and get a 1000mah nimh.
I'm not doubting you or the setup, but i forsee criticism in the future if i ran single pack.
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