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Funtana 90 DLE 30 Setup

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Old 04-23-2015, 09:13 AM
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Love2FlyMN
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Default Funtana 90 DLE 30 Setup

Just wondering if anyone has pics of how this is set up? Do I need to shorten my mount/firewall so the airplane balances out better?
I saw pics of one DLE 30 on a Funtana 90 and the firewall area looked shorter than mine. Also, should I beef this area up a little?

Any tips/recommendations are welcome.
Thanks.
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Old 05-10-2015, 07:59 AM
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Too much power for that frame.
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Old 05-10-2015, 03:52 PM
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Thanks for the reply.
I guess we'll see about that.
I've seen this setup around in other forums and there's a couple vids on YouTube.
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:27 PM
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Bluelt
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Like to hear how the 30 works. Had a Funtana 90 with a Saito 100 = fun, then installed a Valley View 20 gas = way more fun. Would not pull up out of a hover - 30 should fix that. Located batteries on top of tank and no added weight any where - with 30 batts may need to be behind wing tube. Have fun!
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:55 PM
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I'm looking forward to getting her going.
It has a Saito 100 on it now.
Just need time to work on it.... Too many hobbies!
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Old 05-13-2015, 06:39 AM
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I have not done that plane but have converted a 72" QQ Yak over to a DLE30. I could not shorten the firewall and still get the cowl to mount. So I just made a hole in the firewall for the carb to stick into. It made it difficult to hook up linkage and fuel lines. But once it was done it was a great combo. You will have prop clearance issues with that plane. So plan on some taller gear or a rebend of the stock gear. Balance was not an issue for mine. I did just use one battery for everything and use an IBEC. My plane had a Saito 1.80 and the DLE30 is not much heavier and far more powerfull.

David
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Old 05-13-2015, 09:14 AM
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Thanks for the replies.
I did find a build where a guy cut 1" out of his engine box/firewall and glued it back on, then glassed over that. I will head that route as soon as I get some time to work on this.
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Old 05-13-2015, 04:14 PM
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There is no reason to fox the hole for the carb unless it is close to one of the standoffs. And it shouldn't be.
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Old 05-18-2015, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluelt View Post
Like to hear how the 30 works. Had a Funtana 90 with a Saito 100 = fun, then installed a Valley View 20 gas = way more fun. Would not pull up out of a hover - 30 should fix that. Located batteries on top of tank and no added weight any where - with 30 batts may need to be behind wing tube. Have fun!
Any serious mods necessary to mount the 20?
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Old 05-18-2015, 05:14 PM
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Bluelt
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Nothing serious. Fuel tank just in front of wing tube, LIFE batteries on top of fuel tank. Unrelated to gas engine - used pin hinges and replaced gear with Outlaw Hobbies Teatherite gear.
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Old 05-18-2015, 05:42 PM
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I have one hanging in the garage.....just might have a go at it! Thanks for the inspiration
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Old 05-23-2015, 04:54 AM
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I had a DLE 30 on a Funtana 100. The only time you could use full power was when it was pointed up. A friend with the same plane, and maybe a little less experience, blew the wings off one of these in level flight. It just exploded due to aileron flutter that led to wing flutter - VERY impressive - and not something I'll soon (ever) forget witnessing. He wasn't thinking and started playing pylon racer with another plane.... I couldn't get to him in time.

The 30 powered plane suffers from wing rock in high alpha, controllable, but not nearly as nice to fly as the 20 powered planes. The 8oz lighter engine up front makes a noticeable difference in wing loading. The one I flew had no trouble pulling out of a hover. Nothing ballistic like the 30 is, but it was reliable.

To mount the 30, I did the motor box mod where you "section" 1" (if I'm remembering right) from the center of the box holding the firewall. Easier than it sounds because you maintain the original built in thrust angles for the firewall, and you end up with a pretty sturdy base for the 30. Plenty of guys said the 30 was "too much" for the airframe, but I've never seen a structural failure in the ones I've been around - unless you count the one that was obviously abuse due to excessive speed. Bottom line, fun to fly with either engine, but given the option after having flown both now, I'd go for the 20 if I did it again. -Al
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Old 05-23-2015, 02:30 PM
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ahicks - Thanks for the info. You are probably correct that the 20 would provide more overall easier build, fun and longevity. Wonder if ca hinges were used on the one that blew the wings off?
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Old 05-23-2015, 05:18 PM
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I honestly don't remember what hinges he was using, but even if they were the CA type and held, it doesn't take away from the point that I've experienced enough failures where I don't use them.
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:11 AM
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ahicks, thanks. That's exactly the info I was looking for.

I'm already committed to the 30cc. I picked up an AGM 30 (DLE 30 clone). They don't make a 20cc unfortunately.

I can't wait to get going on this. Too much other stuff going on in life right now. Soon though, very soon.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:01 AM
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One more question regarding the 30cc.... How much vibration is normal?? I balanced the prop, including the hub area, and it still seems to vibrate quite a bit on the test stand. I used a drill jig for the holes so those should be centered.
It just seems like it's vibrating quite a bit.
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Old 05-27-2015, 03:30 AM
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First, they shake a lot more than most guys are used to at first, especially at low rpm/idle. You see a lot of tail brace/flying wires installed on tails afterwards.

Second, consider a single bolt prop adapter for your engine. They work great, and there's no more concern regarding drilling those holes. Still a good plan to do a good balance job on the props. -Al
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Old 05-27-2015, 04:57 AM
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I'll check into that prop adapter.

Thanks!
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:37 AM
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Wondering what I should get for batteries for this setup now....2000mah LiFe for RX and 1000mah for ign (wired separately) or should I do two 1500 mah LiFe packs wired in parallel? Or two 1000mah LiFe in parallel? Or two 2000mah .....you get the point.

Also, what brand battery should I go with? Do I not have to worry about reliability as much when wired in parallel? Thus I'm only risking financial loss of the battery instead of catastrophic loss of the airplane??
I've heard stay away from Zippy's (but I may risk if the parallel hookup will only result in the loss of battery, not airplane).

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by Love2FlyMN; 06-03-2015 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:43 AM
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LiFe a good plan. I use one battery, as do many others, because they have a stellar reputation. Failure is no more a concern than your receiver. Favorite brand is A123.

I do use 2 power leads coming from the battery, each feeding a switch (that's your most common failure point!) that feeds the flight pack. Ign. gets it power from the receiver.
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Old 06-03-2015, 12:08 PM
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How many Mah would give me like two flights safely? Where's the best place to purchase the A123's?

What do you mean ign gets its power from the Rx?

Can I run Battery with 2 leads (or Y-connection) two a switch that powers the ignition and a switch that powers the Rx? Or how do you do it?

You'll have to excuse me, I'm new to gassers.

Thanks.
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Old 06-03-2015, 07:11 PM
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I use genuine A123 26650 cells that are rated at 2300mah. They'll let most guys fly all day without charging. I buy mine on Ebay as a rule. I'm good at soldering, so I generally make my own battery packs with 2 of these cells, but they're available done for you as well. Here's one source I trust:

http://www.wrongwayrc.com/index.php?...product_id=149
He's unique in that he'll solder a pack up for you with the 2 leads I'm suggesting....

You could wire the switches as you describe, however the 2nd switch for the ignition isn't really necessary.

I use 2 switches to pretty much eliminate the potential failure point that brings more planes down than any other reason I know of (actual mechanical failures).

The first switch powers the receiver like you normally would - to the receiver socket marked battery.The second switch leads to a Y harness placed in the lead going to the rudder servo. This method supplies total power redundancy from the battery to the receiver. If a switch or electrical connection craps out on you anywhere from the battery to the receiver, there's a backup to take over. A bonus is there's a straight shot to the battery for the rudder servo, supplying all the amperage it can possibly use.

The optical switch, depending on brand, is either set up with a battery eliminator, or modified to eliminate the battery on my planes. The mod is easily done if you can solder. Do you already have the optical switch you plan on running?

You're asking great questions. No problem. Don't be shy. Keep them coming as long as you need.
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Old 06-03-2015, 07:36 PM
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http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...325468&alt=web
How about this pack? It doesn't have two leads buy that would be a quick fix.
I'm semi handy with soldering but for me to solder batteries and stuff (esp at that price/cell), I'm going to have to put my research in first. We'll see what time allows for.

Tbh i don't know what you mean with optical switch? Electronic Ignition? If that's what you mean, i have the one that comes with an AGM motor.

As far as dual switches go. ...you're basically just creating a parallel path, with a second switch for current to flow to the rx by running it into the rudder channel? Another road for electrons to travel if the circuitry is broken by the first switch?
Thanks again for the help. I really appreciate it!
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Old 06-04-2015, 03:29 AM
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If you can solder, you're in business...

That pack would work, but this is how I generally get them. I do try to stay with a state side vendor:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/A123-Battery...item1c53b982f9

Leads from dead servos, as long as the connectors are ok, can be re-purposed as battery power leads, or you can buy new easily.

Parallel circuit, exactly. Not only complete power redundancy, but double the amperage capabilities - potentially an issue once you start running planes like you're talking about using powerful digital servos.

Optical (ignition) switch = switch that allows remote control of the planes ignition via your transmitter (many use the landing gear switch). Not just for safety, but because they're darn handy. We can spend some time here if you aren't familiar. Just holler.

No clue if or which might have shipped with an AGM. -Al
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Old 06-04-2015, 04:16 AM
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Ok, last question is about the ignition getting power from the Rx....plug into empty channel? Or could i solder 3 leads (or use a Y) to go right to the ign? Or do one lead with Y that splits to the two switches and the other to the ign.


I hadn't planned on using an optical switch. Got any recommendations? Do you know if there's a wiring diagram out there for this? It would be easier to see it.
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