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Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

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Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Old 02-22-2004, 02:28 PM
  #26  
lsnover
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

I noticed many of you are stating that you are using Robart Hinge Points instead of the CA Hinges.

I have one of these CEs that I'm just getting started on myself, I'm going with a DA50.

Are the CA hinges that come with the kit, the same as the "packaged" GP CA Hinges?

What would the problem be of using standard Medium Sized GP Pinned Hinges? These would seem to be strong enough and with the Slot Machine, I can get them in pretty quickly.

For those using the DA50, any chance of getting some pictures showing how you got the bolts in for the standoffs? I've read the text, but I just can't picture what you are doing.

Also, with the DA being lighter than the Fuji, is anyone running into a tail heavy situation? I was also considering a pull-pull system with a giant Multiplex servo if tail weight was an issue.

Which Sullivan tail wheel are you guys talking about, and why do this vs. the standard tailwheel which looks pretty decent actually?

Thanks for the feedback. Glad I can benefit from some "pioneers" for a change. Usually I'm the one taking the arrows. ;-)

Regards,
Lee Snover
Old 02-22-2004, 08:19 PM
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hilleyja
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

ORIGINAL: lsnover

....Which Sullivan tail wheel are you guys talking about, and why do this vs. the standard tailwheel which looks pretty decent actually?

Thanks for the feedback. Glad I can benefit from some "pioneers" for a change. Usually I'm the one taking the arrows. ;-)

Regards,
Lee Snover
I'm going to use the 16-22lb Sullivan tail wheel. I like the Sullivan because it is straight forward to mount it and the gear is isolated from the rudder with a flexible spring. I use it on virtually all of my tail draggers.

Progress today, Sunday -- NONE, got lazy playing a game on the computer.
Old 02-22-2004, 10:20 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

hey guys some words of advice,

can the ca hinges all together and get pin hinges. i up graded the ca hinges from the ones supplied in the kit to hanger 9 ca hinges and two of the 3 rudder hinges broke today after only the 6th flight on the bird. the only thing that saved my eagle was that i sealed the hinges with ultra coat. my eagle is powered by a st 3000 so if your planning on a larger engine , plan on some better hinges. thats my 2 cents.... david
Old 02-23-2004, 11:59 AM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

wow, am i gladd i came across this thread, this is my dream plane down the line.

how does this fly? it it twichy/squirley?

what other planes should one fly before this one?


i live up at 8000' and i want to put smoke in it, what engine should i use? a saito 150 or 180??

thanks
Old 02-23-2004, 03:03 PM
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Texas 3D
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

ORIGINALwhat other planes should one fly before this one?


i live up at 8000' and i want to put smoke in it, what engine should i use? a saito 150 or 180??

thanks
first of all, this is no beginners plane ! Not even a intermediate plane. This is truloy something for the experienced pilot. The CE really can be a handfull if you are not familiar with short coupled bipes. Landings can end in a disaster very quick. I strongly suggest to have experience with other type of bipes (like the ultimate or Pitts) before flying this one. I also fly a Carden Cap, and it is a piece of cake to land compared to the CE.
As for the motor, neither the Saito 150 or 180 would be enough power. This plane comes in at 18 lbs, and I really think anything less then 3 cubic inches won't be enough power to really fly it like it should.


I also picked up a bottle of Gorilla glue. I heard that the best way to use this glue is to first add a drop of water into the hole and then the glue.
Jim, yep, I apply some water in the hole with a toothpick first. What you should also do is to apply a drop of household oil (like W40) to the center of the robart hinge. This will prevent the gorilla glue from sticking and gluing the center section. The hinge will break free very easy once the glue is dried, and everything will move freely. ou will love the hinge points.

I flew my Eagle again yesterday, and the more I fly it, the more I like it. The DA 50 has true unlimited power. Inverted flat spins are insane too. This thing screams for smoke.
Old 02-25-2004, 03:17 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Texas 3D,

Did you have the same problem with the cowl ring I am having? I haven't done anything since Saturday. My 1st thought when I installed the ring was "Boy this will make the cowl stand out from the fuselage big time." I have been sanding down the top left and right corners little-by-little to get the cowl to seat further back and clear the engine's prop hub. Not just the prop hub, the cowl graphics also needs to be move further back to line up with the fuselage. Looking from the nose to the tail, the right side graphics is almost in alignment; the left side of the cowl, however, is still too high by about 1/8". All-in-all, the cowl needs to move in a total of 3 directions before I'm ready to start glueing it to the cowl-ring. It needs to go further back to clear the spinner's ribbits. The bottom of the cowl needs to go back even further to line up parallel to the back of the spinner. And, the top left portion of the cowl needs to be twisted to the left to line up the left side graphics. I need to be able to make all of these movements and still keep the cowl ring flush with the inside of the cowl to give it a maximum glue contact.
Old 02-25-2004, 04:24 PM
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John Murdoch
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Default RE: RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Jim,
I did mine to where there was an 1/8" gap all the way around except for in the upper corners. I did sand a little bit but not a whole bunch. I just sanded enough to get even contact between the ring and the cowl. There's no no way you can sand the cowl ring flush with the fuse and have the cowl and the cowl ring fit.
John
Old 02-26-2004, 08:51 AM
  #33  
John Murdoch
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Default ? For Those Of You Who Have Flown The Eagle

Hey Eagle Fans,
I've got a question for those of you that have flown or seen the Eagle fly. A friend of mine saw an Eagle a couple of days ago. Although it wasn't the best of sky, he said he really had a terrible time seeing the bird. With the top and bottom feathers being the same, I could understand how he could say that. But I've never seen one fly. So my question is - Is it really that hard to see and tell the attitudue of the airplane as is? Would it be better to change the bottom color scheme? I'd rather do that before I fly it for the first time. It's always easier and the Monokote sticks better before any exhaust gets all over the place if you know what I mean.
Old 02-26-2004, 10:14 AM
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Default RE: ? For Those Of You Who Have Flown The Eagle

IMHO, there is enough difference in the profile of this airplane, the top and bottom wing are staggered, to easily tell whether your upside-down or right-side up. That plus the size of this airplane would make it easier to see at a distance where an unknown attitude can get you in trouble. If you can't see this airplane well enough to determine its attitude your either way too far away for normal flight or high enough where a bad control move can be compensated for.

Here's another thought. If your flying skills are still rudimentory and your still having some difficulty instinctively managing your attitude maybe this airplane is not a good idea -- it is definitely not a beginner's airplane.

IMHO, this airplane's graphics makes it the crowd pleaser. You do not want to alter it. Having said that, the graphics on my plane were installed with such precision, I inadvertently installed the center section of my top wing upside down.

A final thought (visual effect of the staggered wing): If you observe the airplane in the sky and notice the wings overlap toward the trailing edge (you see interrupted graphics on the leading wing panel) then the airplane is right-side up -- your looking at the bottom of the plane. If, however, the wings overlap toward the leading edge (you see interrupted graphics on the trailing wing panel) then the airplane is upside-down -- your looking at the top of the plane.
Old 02-26-2004, 10:55 AM
  #35  
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Default RE: ? For Those Of You Who Have Flown The Eagle

Rudimentory skills, TOC flyer beginning student. You still need to see the airplane. The reason I'm questioning it now is because the guy that told me it was extremely hard to see and judge has been flying for 40 years. I've watched him fly and really respect his judgement and opinion. That's the exact reason I'm asking. I agree that the scheme is extremely impressive. On the other hand, another comment made by my friend was the plane looked fantastic on the ground, in the pits, but the feather scheme seemed to establish a blur when it was flying. And I can understand that. I'm just about finished with mine minus the switch and balancing. I'll get mine up in the air and then make any decisions about changing the scheme. I can certainly keep in in close, but I'd also like the ability to fly IMAC sequences with it. Some of the maneuvers require that the bird is quite a ways away to properly perform the manuever. All I want to do is to be able to see it. That's why I'm asking. I'll post all my opinions on how the Eagle flys, how easy or difficult it is to see and the overall characteristics of this airplane once I've maidened her.
Old 02-26-2004, 03:32 PM
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Default RE: ? For Those Of You Who Have Flown The Eagle

232Cap-Tain,

My statements above were not based on CE flying experience; I'm even further behind getting mine in the air than you are.

One thing I have noticed over the last couple of years as I have acquired more flying experience is I have found that flying airplanes that do not have considerable contrast differences between top and bottom is becoming much easier. It used to be a norm for me to modify my airplanes so that the top and bottom were significantly different.

BTW, sometimes the addition of or lack of clouds can change the visibility of your airplane significantly. I have a small combat airplane that is black on the top and bright yellow on the bottom. During cloudsless days the differences are very distinctive and highly visible. With a dark overcast sometimes the yellow can't be distinguished from the black.

Here's a thought: I have gotten very into 15-sized combat airplanes in the last year. They are small and highly maneuverable and due to the nature of the flying require the pilot to always be on top of their attitude. You better know instinctively that the airplane is upside down when your 15' off the deck trying to avoid another airplane because you are definitely not at the 1-mistake altitude.

It is just barely visible in the picture below, but I have a strip of highly-reflective tape on the leading edge. I borrowed this idea from the high-flying glider flyers. It is almost useless on cloudy days but on sunny days this strip makes this airplane very visible.
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Old 02-26-2004, 04:37 PM
  #37  
blkbird68
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Default RE: ? For Those Of You Who Have Flown The Eagle

everybody talks about the cowl ring making the cowl stickout around the fuse......


did you guys realize that is how the full scale Eagle is??????? it is suppose to be that way...
Old 02-27-2004, 11:39 AM
  #38  
John Murdoch
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Default Done!!

I just finished my Eagle yesterday. Balanced right at the center recommended line. Came out at 16 lbs. I changed my mind and put a Moki 2.10 in her. I'm saving the DA for a totally IMAC bird. Now, I need to build a stand that would go into the back of my truck (won't fit without taking the thing apart and I really don't want to spend hours putting her together at the field). Pretty windy here today so I'll wait until next week to put her to the test.

You don't realize how pretty this thing is until it's all put together.
Old 02-27-2004, 12:37 PM
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Default RE: Done!!

ORIGINAL: 232Cap-Tain

I just finished my Eagle yesterday. Balanced right at the center recommended line. Came out at 16 lbs. I changed my mind and put a Moki 2.10 in her. I'm saving the DA for a totally IMAC bird. Now, I need to build a stand that would go into the back of my truck (won't fit without taking the thing apart and I really don't want to spend hours putting her together at the field). Pretty windy here today so I'll wait until next week to put her to the test.

You don't realize how pretty this thing is until it's all put together.
Traitor!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!

I'll be lucky to keep mine below 20lbs
.


I haven't looked into the flying wires yet, but I would think the only other assembly needed at the field is:

1) Bolt bottom wing to fuselage -- normal for most airplanes.
2) Bolt top wing to the cabanes -- 2 screws
3) Attachment of the wing struts -- 8 screws

If you also include the flying wires, you need to simply connect the wire clevis to the brackets for 4 sets of wires.

There is simply no way I could transport my GP Christen Eagle II fully assembled, even in a Plymouth Grand Voyager with the back 2 sets of seats removed. It might fit, but it will be the only airplane I could get in the vehicle. I might invest in a trailor in the near future.

My goal is to be able to transport both my GP Christen Eagle II and my Aeroworks X300L Profile. Those two fuselages side-by-side should be a good fit along with the PVC wing carrier for the CE wings. The Aerowork wing panels are in wing bags and will be sitting on top of the PVC cage I built inside the van.
Old 02-27-2004, 01:25 PM
  #40  
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Default RE: Done!!

Traitor Huh.?? Just call me Benedict I guess. This is one bird I didn't take one step forward and two steps back (I won't mention any names here) to complete. Sorry, but this is the longest I've ever taken putting something (an ARF) together... I get frustrated when I have to plug in two aileron servo wires and put a wing bolt on. When I get to the field, I want to fly. I didn't put the flying wires on because that's one more thing you have to take off or at least undo to get inside the airplane. After first flights, I at least like to look inside to see what shook off and to see if there's any fuel leaks. With the wires, that's another five more minutes I could have been flying. I've got them handy so if later, I want to put them on, I can.

I'll keep you posted on what I think she flys like.
Old 03-02-2004, 11:01 AM
  #41  
Texas 3D
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Default RE: Done!!

Jim, no problems with my cowl ring. Just like blkbird68 mentioned: It is supposed to stand out. I used BVM aeropoxy to glue the cowl ring to the cowl. Worked like a charm, and is much stronger then using just regular epoxy.

As for visibility, I have to say that due to the shape it is pretty easy to spot and see in the sky. Cloudy days can get confusing though. I think it is a matter of getting used to it. I would not maiden this bird on a cloudy day however.

232 Cap tain : I think you will be dissapointed in the Eagle using a Moki 2.10. It will not have enough power to really pull it through the paces it deserves. It might be OK for the basic stuff, but as soon as you get used to it, you want more. Trust me.

I just noted on my CE that the one top center bracket (it is # C3) that goes to the front cabane broke. Getting a new bracket as we speek, so the Eagle is grounded until repaired.

I jsut flew it at the Winter Rally of the Giants this past weekend, and this plane screems for smoke. So if you are considering adding smoke, go for it.
Old 03-05-2004, 06:04 PM
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John Murdoch
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Default The Eagle Has Landed

Well, I maidened her today. What a rush. Everything went perfect for the conditions. I don't have much time to explain all the details now, but will get back with a blow by blow (and boy did it blow) explaination. You'll love it!
Old 03-08-2004, 03:30 PM
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Default RE: The Eagle Has Landed

232Cap-Tain,

Final pictures? Where is the blow=by-blow you promised?

True to my original statement, I'm proceeding with my contstruction at a leasurely pace and with a lot more dilligence than when I started out.

1) The landing gear is complete. I replaced the foam wheels with 4.0" Dubro-equivalents. They are also foam but have a rubber coating -- should hold up better. See picture #1.

2) When I started installing the controls for the tail I realized almost immediately the instruction manual approach was not going to work. The elevator and rudder servos are mounted too close to run pushrods between them. I also found that the included clevis's constrains the connections and would force you to mount the control horns sideways instead of straigh-on -- the elevator servos and the control horns cannot exist in the same plain, you would have to mount the elevator horns right on the inside edge of the elevator. My solution was pretty simple. I mounted the elevator servo arms between the servo and horizontal stabilizer -- you can see from the picture I just barely have enough clearance. I also replaced the servo arm clevis with a 4-40 swivel ball links and I replaced both the rudder and elevator control horms with the small Dubro Adjustable Control Horn. The heavy duty would look nicer but these will be adequate. See pictures #2 & 4

3) I was going to use the Sullivan tail gear assembly but upon inspection of the included assembly I found I liked the GP assembly better. It is a nice and elegant installation for a tail gear. See picture #3
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Old 03-08-2004, 04:09 PM
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Default RE: RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

You guys are doing a great job with all these great hints and mods, anybody know of a good 30% female pilot ( I got this thing about chicks and biplanes) I'm still messing around with my Eagle about two hours away from completion. Looks really great and I'm sure its a keeper.Keep up the good work.Remember Never run out of altitude,airspeed and ideas all at the same time.-Mike
Old 03-08-2004, 04:12 PM
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Default RE: The Eagle Has Landed

Jim,
After I've thought about it, my blow by blow doesn't seem that exciting. I need to put her up in the air again after the adjustments I've made and then see what it'll do. Here's a few pics. My rear rudder/aileron servos fit but I had to modify the arms.
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Old 03-08-2004, 04:32 PM
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hilleyja
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Default RE: RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

ORIGINAL: rcmiket

You guys are doing a great job with all these great hints and mods, anybody know of a good 30% female pilot ( I got this thing about chicks and biplanes) I'm still messing around with my Eagle about two hours away from completion. Looks really great and I'm sure its a keeper.Keep up the good work.Remember Never run out of altitude,airspeed and ideas all at the same time.-Mike
Whatever you do don't order the Aerowork's 29-31%-scale pilot bust. You be the judge why after viewing the picture below:

Texas 3D has a nice one -- check out this link:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_15...tm.htm#1593178
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Old 03-08-2004, 04:44 PM
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John Murdoch
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Default RE: RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Speaking of busts:
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Old 03-09-2004, 07:49 AM
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Default RE: RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

ORIGINAL: 232Cap-Tain

Speaking of busts:
Don't show Aeroworks that -- you'll give them some legitimacy to their notion of 29-31%-scale. A typical 30%-scale bust is based on an individual with a shoulder width of ~20". This gives you a figure with a shoulder width of ~6". It doesn't look like your pilot is old enough to be flying an airplane -- I noticed you even have her on a booster seat.

BTW, how did you finish off the cockpit. I'm thinking white acrylic base coat followed by a light buish-gray. The instruction manual says to base-coat it white to prevent the gray color from bleading through the balsa and showing through the white covering. My pilot figure is blackshirt, red epilet and hatless -w- headset, the same one shown above, but bigger. It is a true 30% with a shoulder width of 6", which leaves me about 1/2" to spare on the sides.
Old 03-09-2004, 08:24 AM
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John Murdoch
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Default RE: RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

My painting of cockpits really sucks. So, I've found an alternative that looks pretty good and I can do it without screwing up. I use felt material that you can get in just about any color you want from Michaels, JoAnns or any fabric store for about $1.00 sq. yd., spray some 3M adhesive and press into place. It gives the plane a fabric like finish, I don't have overspray, runs or streaks AND it holds up pretty good in the 110 Las Vegas temperatures. I can't remember where I bought Mary, but they said it was a 25% figure. Yeah, right? But don't let the looks of her being small and young deceive you. She's a heck of a pilot and she'll wring that airplane out. BTW, I need all the help I can get.

It was a pretty day here yesterday but I was busy until about 3:30. Then I loaded up and went out for two flights before it got dark. On the first one, everything went fine until I landed. No hint of wind and the Eagle came in HOT. It was a perfect centerline landing but she wouldn't woah. Turned a little hard at the end of the runway, barely scraped the left wing tip and nosed over just enough to scrape the prop. Just enough to ruin a prop. Had another one though and made another flight. This time the landing was much better and didn't have to change props.

Today is supposed to be 80 with no wind to speak of. Leaving here early and I'm going to spend the whole day dialing the plane in. So far, there's no unnatural tendancies other than about an eighth of an over rotation when I snap it.
Old 03-09-2004, 10:20 AM
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John Murdoch
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Default RE: RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Here's the cockpit lined with felt. Easier than painting and more elegant looking too. The next time I have the canopy off, I'll take some more pictures. The canopy really distorts the quality look of the felt lining.
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