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Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

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Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Old 03-15-2004, 03:04 PM
  #51  
hilleyja
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Default RE: RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Trying to keep this forum on the surface so here is an update.

I didn't do much this weekend because I went to the Lebanon, PA swap meet. I picked up a Pilot DJ-1 with a TK engine/ducted-fan. It should be interesting.

The minute details are starting to get done. I finished the fuel tank installation. 232Cap-Tain, I did not have to dismount the engine. There are 2 holes for the fuel tank. When installed for a Fuji engine, the bottom hole is used. This one is accessible without having to dismount the engine. I will be running with a simple "T" and a fuel dot.

My slightly-used Fuji BT-50SA came with the 90degree bellcrank already installed on the throttle. I only had to run a straight nyrod from the bellcrank to the throttle servo mounted inside the fuselage.

According to the instruction manual its time to install the kill switch. This will also be a decision point for me because I have one of those switches that has both a manual throw and a micro-switch for a servo throw. I haven't decided whether to install it or go with a simple switch from Radio Shack.

After that I will be working on the cockpit. I'm following 232Cap-Tain and will be glueing a grey felt material to the insterior of the cockpit. I came across this material at a local craft store. Unfortunately, they also have this material with a sticky-back but not in the grey color. I want the anti-glare effect below the canopy but do not want to have to buy a full roll of covering for such a small piece. I'm thinking about a flat-black paint over the white monocote instead. It will, in any case, be under the canopy and out of the elements.

Its getting close to the point where I will have to start mounting the top wing to the cabanes. If you remember, in my earlier progress, I mounted the center section of the wing upside down. I will find out real soon how well I installed the hardwood blocks inside the upside-down wing panel.
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Old 03-17-2004, 07:33 AM
  #52  
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Default RE: RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Cockpit is done. The canopy will be mounted this evening.
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Old 03-17-2004, 07:36 AM
  #53  
John Murdoch
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Default RE: RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Very Cool Jim. What did you use for the black cockpit trim?
Old 03-17-2004, 01:33 PM
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Default RE: RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Acrylic paint in a tube from AC Moore. I was pleasantly surprised it came out almost flat -- I actually thought it was going to be glossy.

I plan on mounting the canopy with button-head screws and sealing the edges with white covering trim.

I also need to stop by Radio Shack after work and pick up a switch. I decided not to go with the manual/servo combo switch I ordered. I'll mount it right where the instruction manual recommends.

My only decision left is how to setup the choke for the engine. My Fuji is the older version (BT-50SA), which has a slide panel mounted on the face of the carburetor throat. The angle of the plate is going to make it difficult -- it appears the only real angle I have is straight back toward the firewall. If I go that route I'll use a nyrod and exit the side of the fuselage just behind the cowl -- basically running through the corner of the firewall/fuselage.
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Old 03-17-2004, 01:52 PM
  #55  
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Default RE: RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

why not have the choke servo operated ? I really like it on my Eagle with the DA 50. Simply flip the switch (hook ed up to gear channel). Works great.
Old 03-17-2004, 02:44 PM
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Default RE: RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Crazy pilots have a nice Patty Wagstaff pilot. Real hair and all.

Regards


ORIGINAL: rcmiket

You guys are doing a great job with all these great hints and mods, anybody know of a good 30% female pilot ( I got this thing about chicks and biplanes) I'm still messing around with my Eagle about two hours away from completion. Looks really great and I'm sure its a keeper.Keep up the good work.Remember Never run out of altitude,airspeed and ideas all at the same time.-Mike
Old 03-18-2004, 08:44 PM
  #57  
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

I hope to have my CE at end of month. Will be powering with G62, Servos JR DS8411 for alerons & elevators, JR DS 4611 for rudder. Sullivan Skywriter for smoke pump, Slimline smoke muffer for G62, will be replacing CA hinges with robart pin hinges 5 each aleron & each elevator and 7 for rudder.2 JR Multi boxs 1 for alerons and 1 for elevators, seperate bat. Any other mods I should use.
Old 03-18-2004, 09:49 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

ORIGINAL: The Ghost

I hope to have my CE at end of month. Will be powering with G62, Servos JR DS8411 for alerons & elevators, JR DS 4611 for rudder. Sullivan Skywriter for smoke pump, Slimline smoke muffer for G62, will be replacing CA hinges with robart pin hinges 5 each aleron & each elevator and 7 for rudder.2 JR Multi boxs 1 for alerons and 1 for elevators, seperate bat. Any other mods I should use.
In one hyphened word: OVER-KILL!!!

1) You don't need that kind of firepower in your servos -- you won't realize the benefits. I even thought of standardizing on Hitec HS-5625/5645 on all 1/4-scale airplanes. This airplane, though being a 28.7%-scale, is not all that big and the control surface area is not conducive to high dynamic 3D flying. Any good quality BB servo in the 60oz range is more than adequate for airlons and elevator. Go with a higher torgue for the rudder, though this rudder doesn't even really need that. A JR 4611 is super OVER-KILL -- save those servos for your 40%-scale 3D aerobats. I'm going with Hitec (6) HS-5475s for the airlons and elevator. I happend to have a Hitec HS-5975 on hand and will put that on the rudder -- even that is over-kill.

2) Others have gone with the Fuju BT-64 on this airplane. IMHO, it is too heavy for the benefit. You would be much better off with a lower weight 50CC engine like the DA-50, ZDZ-50, etc. You'll never get away with the G-62 without adding a lot of weight to the tail for CG. I'm going with a Fuji BT-50 but don't expect to run high dynamics with the plane. The engine will give you more than enough power but you'll end up with an overly-heavy airplane.

3) I agrea in general principal with the replacement of the hinges with medium Robart hingepoints. I'm using them on the rudder and elevator. I may switch to them on the airlons if I have even a hint of hinge failure. You don't need that many hinges. Again, this airplane is not that big. (3) on each airlon is more than adequate. (3) on each elevator is more than adequate, And, (3) on the rudder is more than adequate.

4) What is a JR Multi box? I know they have Matchboxes to match servos to a given control surface. I don't think you need them. If your running with an 8103 or better TX you have the programming capability to run each of your servos into a separate channel and use the programming of the radio to match the control surfaces.

5) It is always an extra precaution to consider dual batteries and switches for redundancy. You don't need to do this to separate the power source between the servos and RX for this airplane. A good medium 6-volt (1800mah or better) RX battery is more than capable for handling the load that 8 servos and 1 RX will put on it. Add another battery and switch if you want the warm-fuzzy of a redundant battery system. My initial setup is to be a single battery, single switch. If I don't have weight problems I may add an additional battery and switch for redundancy.

Hope these insights help -- my GP Christen Eagle II is just about 95% completed. I've been taking my time and my goal is to maiden flight her the 1st week in April. Before that she will be center-stage at a mall show. You can see my blow-by-blow progress in this forum.
Old 03-18-2004, 10:17 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Sorry about the servos, (Ex Jet Jock.) Spare servos had in a box. The JR Multi Box is the match Box. Setting up the aileron servos is a snack with them. The G62 is a motor that is new and just had it sitting in the cuboard (gift) Just tring to save a few $$$$. Should I use soft mounts or just hard mount. Battery pack is 6v 3300ma Ni-MH. Split feed to matchbox and reciver to save draw through reciver on long servo runs. Radio is JR X9.
Old 03-19-2004, 07:39 AM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Everything I've read said do not soft mount a large single cylinder in this application -- it will actually shake everything apart. I'm not real familiar with the G62 but the Fuji's are considered to be smooth running engines due to the large magneto up front acting like counter balancers. A friend of mine has a G62 on a Giant Stinger; it is not soft-mounted and he does not appear to have problems.
Old 03-20-2004, 05:42 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Some of you have mentioned that you go over the feather monokote edges with a trim sealant on a q-tip. What is that sealant and where do you get it? Is it like a thin CA ?

Also, does anyone have a ZDZ 40 on this airplane. I have a NIB 40 so I figured it was a suitable match for the plane. Is the 40 powerful enough or is the 50cc size really needed. Also does anyone with a ZDZ 40 know standoff length if necessary. Im hoping to get started on the CE soon and it looks like this arf is going to be quite a project with all of the pecularities that Im reading, but I guess what arf doesnt.
Old 03-20-2004, 06:55 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Actually, what they are taling about is Trim Solvent. It is a product put out by Top Flight and is compatible with monocote. It definitely is not a form of CA and I would not use CA to seal the edges of covering. Trim Solvent is an alternative to fighting with the air bubbles when overlapping monocote, like adding trim.

The ZDZ-40 is light weight and has good power for a 40cc -- it is in the range recommended by GP. I would imagine it would do well with this airplane.
Old 03-20-2004, 07:19 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

I'm almost finished. The light at the end of the tunnel is so bright its blinding me.

I spent the better part of today installing the wing and flying wires. I installed all of the angle iron last night and followed the instruction by dropping a little CA in each hole -- well worth that effort.

1) The wing installation presented no real challenges, though I was a little concerned initially because I had installed the center section of the wing upside down back when and had to cut open the wing and add hardwood block for the cabane connection points and flying wire points for the top wing. It all went well. And, yes, I had the same problem everyone else has had. I had to redrill 2 of the holes in the fuselage to properly align the cabanes -- I just followed the instruction addendum.

2) Now, the flying wires took way more time than I thought they would. The rear wing wires were too long by about a 1/8". I came up with a brilliant solution that did not require me to rebuild the wire harnesses. I ground down each of the clevis; this allowed me to screw them in a litter further. That did the trick. See the picture below.

3) The biggest problem I had was reseating the clevis' for the flying wires. After spreading them to place over the contact points the pin would not reseat easily. That was very frustrating and I almost threw them all out. I perservered and finally finished them. I still may replace those that I have to constantly install and remove when setting up for flying and tearing down for transport.

After installing the flying wires I added some of the graphics on it. I also added a few personal touches, thanks to my local vinyl graphic artist/cutter.
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Old 03-20-2004, 07:25 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

More pictuers:

BTW, the flying wires for the tail surfaces are installed a little different than the wing. Each contact point is bolted to the surface through a brass bushing. The brass bushing is 3/8" length of soft brass tubing. My novel method for drilling the holes and installing the bushings is shown in the 1st picture below. Trying to manual cut that hole with your fingers is almost impossible. I just chucked the sharpened brass tube in my drill and cut the holes very easily and neatly.
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Old 03-23-2004, 10:19 AM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Well, the only thing left to do is install the RX, battery, and switch. I'm also going to replace the manual choke rod that sticks out the side of the fuselage with a small servo mounted on the side of the motor box. I'll do that this week and I'll then be ready for the Mall Show this Saturday. While at the Mall Show I'll work on initializing the control throws and TX mixes I'll need.

Before my maiden flight I will go over the entire airplane and make sure all is tightened down and metal-to-metal screws have blue loctite. If the weather cooperates, my maiden flight should be the 3rd or 4th of April.
Old 03-23-2004, 10:44 AM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Well, the only thing left to do is install the RX, battery, and switch. I'm also going to replace the manual choke rod that sticks out the side of the fuselage with a small servo mounted on the side of the motor box. I'll do that this week and I'll then be ready for the Mall Show this Saturday. While at the Mall Show I'll work on initializing the control throws and TX mixes I'll need.

Before my maiden flight I will go over the entire airplane and make sure all is tightened down and metal-to-metal screws have blue loctite. If the weather cooperates, my maiden flight should be the 3rd or 4th of April.
Old 03-29-2004, 12:28 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

All but finished. Here she is with me in a static display at our local mall.
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Old 03-30-2004, 04:51 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Great looking bird Jim. Make sure and let us know how the maiden went, and be careful with the landings. Make sure you have plenty of airspeed and fly her all the way to the ground
Old 04-11-2004, 01:20 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Well its almost done all thats left is finish painting the pilot,charge and go fly.Balanced right on the money with the Moki 18.Hope the fly it this week.Thanks for all the help and tips.Mike
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Old 04-21-2004, 02:17 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

If the weather god is good to me I plan on flying my Christen Eagle II this Saturday for the first time. All I have left to do is fully assemble her and setup up the recommended control rates. I'll update this post with before flight pictures at the field.
Old 04-21-2004, 02:40 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Jim,
I certainly don't know about you! You should have had it up in the air a hundred times by now.... just kidding. I've flown my quite a few times and I'm still trying to find the right CG and the right throws. It's different than anything I've ever flown. It flys nice but it also flys heavy. Be careful on the landings. Make sure you don't try to turn it too soon. Make sure you've bled off as much ground speed as you can before even attempting to turn. Once you've flown it, and landed it, you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. Take an extra prop, just in case. Good luck and my prayers are with you.
Old 04-22-2004, 01:13 PM
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ORIGINAL: 232Cap-Tain

... Make sure you don't try to turn it too soon. Make sure you've bled off as much ground speed as you can before even attempting to turn...
????

Tell me this isn't contradictory. I would think what you mean by the 1st sentenance is that once I've taken off I should continue in a straight line until I've gain some altitude and airspeed -- prevent the airplane from stalling when I turn. What do you mean by bleeding off as much ground speed??? That's what I don't want to do -- my main concern is stalling when I come in for a landing.


...extra prop...
I've heard this airplane tends to bounce on landings -- is it that bad? Should I start out with my Dynathrust 20x8 nylon propellor vs the Zinger 20x8 standard?

...You should have had it up in the air a hundred times by now.... just kidding...
It is almost May here in West Virginia and so far this year we haven't had a single ideal flying day yet. It's now starting to look like this Saturday won't be very good either -- may not fly after all. In any case, I won't maiden her on any day other than an ideal, no weather, no wind, day. I have a little experience with airplanes that don't float very well -- my Creeks Hobby Sukhoi was one such airplane and it is now in my repair bin waiting on a fix for the landing gear. Based on that I know my limitations and I know I need to have my head screwed on straight when I fly the Christen Eagle II. This is not going to be one of my typical instinct flights. I rely too much on the airplane's ability to float into the landing and have virtually no experience picking my landing marks. Even when I flew full-scale, my ability to pick my landing spots was marginal.

I'M SCARED -- so there!!!!
Old 04-22-2004, 01:41 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Jim,
I'm not talking about the take off at all. It's the landings that will kill ya. As far as the take off goes, that's not much of a problem at all. In fact, the take offs are a breeze. The landings are what I was referring to. Make sure you wheel land the Eagle. But if you've still got some air speed going once she touches down, then just the slightest up elevator will put her back into the air. And what I was talking about with the turning thing was to make sure your ground speed has slowed enough after a landing before even thinking of turning it around. The landing gear is pretty narrow and doesn't give it a lot of "stance". So, what I tried to say is - when landing, make sure your Eagle is going pretty slow when making a turn on the ground or she'll nose over. I've done three props now. Keeping Menz in business. We've got a 600' runway and I use every bit of it, especially on clam days. I find it's better to land with some wind. That seems to bleed of the air speed pretty quickly.
Old 04-22-2004, 02:58 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

Now I understand, and that makes sense. God, I hate airplanes that nose-over too easily. I frankly didn't consider that with this airplane -- it doesn't look like it would be sensitive to nose-overs, there's a lot of airplane behind those main gears.

I have several war birds that spend 99.999% of their time in my shop because they are too difficult to taxi -- everyone of my retract-gear'd airplanes have had their landing gears remade into fixed landing gears with the wheels push as far forward as you can go.

I was aware of the tendency for it to bounce on landing. Thankfully, our grass strip is in pretty good shape for power-on landings. Should I strive for 2-wheel touchdowns or 3-wheel touchdowns? How much above idle should I have when approaching landing? If I remember, your bird has a Moki 2-stroke on it. If it is like my Moki 180 your still breaking it in and haven't gotten to your lowest idle yet. I should be able to get a slower idle than you can and I'm assuming this plane will slow down real quick.
Old 04-22-2004, 05:34 PM
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Default RE: Christen Eagle - Building, Alterations and Modifications

The Moki's got over 10 gallons through her and gets down to about 1300 RPM. I've even dead sticked it on purpose just to see what it'll do. Just a CEII tendancy I guess. Let me know what you think of the flying abilities.

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