Fastlif

My Feedback: (2)

Dont go cheap. Learn to fly well before spending your ducks on a big plane. Have fun with it.

heat shrink all connectors, strap everything in, on or otherwise secure.

Zip tie all fuel lines, they swell, and fall off.

Good Batteries, Servos, leads, hardware, these are all your life line.

Easy on the programming til you know you can handle it all.

Check everything over like you put a ton of money in it, because you have.

chasrb

Are the alum servo arms really worth the money when setting up a 33% Laser?

kaksnapper

Three points on whats been posted...

1. Loctite, anything other than blue only fire will get it apart!!!!

2. Make aluminium clamps for your mufflers mounted to the fire wall.

3. If your wife complains about your planes, drinkin, friends, or dog; get rid of her...better to live in peace than die in misery. Been there, done that 2 1/2 times. Smilin, happy, and single(but shackin up), ken

imaokie

My Feedback: (2)

You guys with giant scale experience probably don't realize how many questions us "newbies" have. I was into flying from mid seventies until 1983 "for my kids", now I'm back into it for my 12 year old Grandson. I have no problem building and flying nitro, with under 80" wingspans, my favorite now is a 73" ws Edge 540 with a Saito 150.

I just purchased a 35% Giant Scale Planes, Edge 540, 103" ws ARF from an individual off RC Universe and have a DA-100 to mount on it, which is also my first gasser. Instructions from Giant Scale Planes must have been written for an extremely experienced Giant Scale builder, they tell me very little about what to use for hardware (no hardware kit available), how to hook it up, wheel sizes, servos, etc. etc. Questions range from, what type of servos, hinges, pushrods; servo arms, control horns, to how do you set up a dual battery system and on and on.

Our clubs only experienced giant scale builder/flyer, is in Louisiana for two months helping rebuild after Katrina. So local help is hard to come by. Think back to your first giant scale and try to remember all the questions you had......from the simplest (things you think we all should know) to the most complex, that's the type of information us "newbies" need.

Thanks,

Phil

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Welcome to the forum Phil,

Been there, still doing that learning curve thing after a 40 year break from modeling and then it was just control line. I started again with the RC stuff about a year ago, and finding this site was a wonderful help.

You're braver than I am since you bought a kit. I've just been building ARFs and it's a pretty steep learning curve without kit building. My current project is a Hangar 9 33% Edge ARF with a ZDZ-100 going on it, so we're talking about pretty much the same thing. I've learned a lot this last year with reading here and a friend who's been modeling for the last 15 years, but there aren't any definitive guides to the information you are seeking. I'll try to give you a little help tho...

The hardware thing is common to the large scale stuff since there are so many opinions about what's best, the manufacturers just don't include it. Some will offer a hardware kit as an extra, but I think that's usually the ARF stuff. The other part is that there are so many ways to do things, and generally by the time someone is to the size model you're talking about, they pretty much have their own ideas there as well as hardware options.

My best advice to you is to spend a lot of time reading here to begin with. Check and see if there isn't a forum thread for your specific model, get on the gas engine forum, check the radio equipment forum, browse for anything that looks interesting, then read it all. The worst thing you can do is to post something like "I don't have time to read this whole thread, can I just get this question answered?". There are lots of folks here who will help, but few will answer a question from someone with so little interest or who is too lazy to do a little reading. If a thread is of any real size, there will be some stuff that doesn't merit reading, but there will also be a whole lot of valuable information. You can also look for commonality in posts, when you see lots of folks posting with a similar idea or answer you can be pretty sure it's solid advice. If you don't find the answer to your specific question, then by all means ask.

In general, don't scrimp on the hardware or electronics. You'll have well over $3000.00 invested by the time you get through and you could lose it all by going cheap on some of those components. Take your time and don't short cut things, it will come back to haunt you when it fails.

Have fun!

imaokie

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the advice Zeeb it all makes good common sense and will help keep me focused.
My 35% Edge "is" an ARF, I don't have enough brass to try one that size from a kit. I have been following a lot of threads on giant scale planes, engines, servos and batteries and have already learned a lot. I looked for a thread on the 35% Edge, but couldn't find anything that specific. One thing that impresses me is how helpful everyone is, this internet thing and especially RC Universe is great for the sport.
Phil

B. Moore

Seems like a good thread to try my hand at talking instead of just reading. Hi my name is B. Moore and I'm a newbee. First off nothing can replace time spent on this site, I spent countless hours surfing through the info. If it isn't here chances are someone has led you to a link that has it. I just want to say a big thank you. I am lucky enough to have a few large scale flyers at my club as well and just like the time spent here it's all good. Most of all be patient, Rome wasn't built in a day are words to live by. I'm in the midst of building a Lanier Laser 30% and it's a tester, one thing for sure is that with out the guys at the club and these threads I'm not sure what might be on my building board. Oh and by the way thread lock isn't just for the big boys I say start young and don't lose anything you can't hold onto.

Thanks,
Bri

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds a lot like my first wife.

Glad to see this thread back up on top. You new guys keep asking the questions for us all to answer so we can keep it here.

Pat

juanes1969

For the newbies, a few things that have helped me (I´ve only been flying GS for 5 years and I still think I have a lot to learn) but for what it´s worth:

When you drill your first big prop, do it from behind the prop, that way the holes are always aligned to the engine´s hole threads.
If you have trouble finding the right hardware because of all the brands for GS, take a look at DUBRO for the first airplane, and start to compare from there.
Servos... extreme torque is never too much, your plane will thank you for it.
In your first flights, try flying it like a trainer and get a feel for it until you are comfortable before giving it more throws.
Baffle the cowl properly, that $700 plus engine needs all the attention you can give it, don´t melt it down.
If you are flying a big GS plane and your runway is close to you, remember the plane is bigger, and the runway is still as far from you as before, so plan on feeling the plane closer to you when you land.

Just a few things that look somewhat simple or not important, but they do happen when you are not used to flying GS planes.
Hope this helps you.
John

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Adding to above regarding the runway proximity and perspective. Your first large scale plane will not need to fly as fast as your smaller ones. Don't expect it to.

Take it up high and fully stall it in several attitudes to see what to expect for the landing approach. Your approach will probably be a lot slower than what you have been accustomed to.

SoCalSal

My Feedback: (16)

O.K. you long time giant scalers, I need your input. Almost ready to paint 33% Waco YMF-5. Power is RCS 215 . I know I can build good enough that the palne will fly. What I need to know is should I run the engine with out the cowl for a few flights till I'm sure it is set up right or is it o.k. to run with cowl right from the get go?. Also your thoughts on my choise of radio gear. Radio Royal Evo 9, Servos are all HiTech digitals, useing two 4800mah batt paks to a Power Box , Slimline pro smoke system. Weight ready to fly will be 40-43 lbs. Now the good stuff.......This is my first giant scale plane, been out of R.C. many years. Don't see many giant scale flyers on this site that fly anything but 3 D type aircraft I know I'm not ready to fly like that but do you think this Waco will be a hand full for me?

Thanks for any help you my provide.

zzw26n

My Feedback: (45)

SoCal ,

I would run it first on the ground just to get the settings correct on the carb, Put the Cowl back on and fly it, even if it's for 5 minutes, land and catch your breath. Fly it with the Cowl.

regards, zz

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I have some experience with both the plane and the engine that you are working with. I was involved with the first completed production kit. The 215 will handle running on the ground for short periods of time, even at brief full throttle bursts. It's best if it is left without the cowl for this. Our maximum run times were kept to aabout 90 seconds max, and less if full throttle settings were used. The engine was left to cool for about 1/2 between run ups. The aircraft was flown without the cowl for the first 15 flights or so with no problems.

Be ready for a whole lot of right rudder on the take off roll. That 215 and big prop has torque!!! Take off rolls are very short, under 50 feet. Landings are very stiff legged with the gear as originally supplied, so wheel landings will be better that point landings if you can. There is zero give in the gear legs. She flys very scale, and likes a bit of rudder going into the turns. She also likes quite a bit of aileron.

For a more complete assessment of her flight qualities and tendencies, contact Charlie at Modaire Hobbies in Manteca, CA. If he's not there, ask for Bev and she will probably put you in touch with him. He helped revise the construction manual and owns and flys the plane that I worked with. I can't remember the website or e-mail addy, but [email protected] seems right.

Pat

teufelhund

My Feedback: (2)

Hi guys, I would like to know how you do the balancing to find the CG on these huge planes. I currently have a GP Aeromaster about to go up, and I am trying to figure out a way to get the CG correct without having to lift the aircraft with my fingers as it is quite heavy. I don't know th AUW yet, but I'll venture at least 18 lbs. Thanks in advance! Ben

SoCalSal

My Feedback: (16)

Hi I use an EZ balancer for my 33% Waco at 47 pound AUW I also use it on my 30% Yak 54 18.5 pounds AUW. It is a very very usefule tool and I swear by it. I know some of the guys will chime in here and say NO WAY NOT ME I would rather spend $230 on somthing else besides a balancing maching. But my Waco is at $7,000 and the Yak at about $2000 so $230 is nothing to ensure that these planes fly right just off the building table. Yes there are other ways but none as easy as just sitting your plane on the cradle of the EZ Balancer and moving things around to obtain the correct balance at CG. If you want the web-address send me a e-mail and I will provide it for you.

todhog

My Feedback: (9)

If me and another guy can lift a 40+ pound plane with our fingers you will have no problem with yours.

Todd

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Well the EZ balancer would be nice, and perhaps I'll get one some day but it always seems like there is somewhere else that money could be spent since I don't do all that many initial balances.

I've always just used the finger tip method with the help of a friend. We do an initial and then I figure the weight x arm = moment stuff to get an idea of where the batteries need to be located. Then we check it again looking for something in the forward limit area of the CG range and go fly.

They are always more stable with a forward CG and you've got a better chance of a successful maiden flight with a forward CG vs. an aft CG, which can make the model very touchy and difficult to get back on the ground. Then I start moving batteries back a little at a time until I get the model to do the IMAC CG test and call it good.

A bipe is going to be a bit tougher than an IMAC type bird but just make sure you get the measurements right and don't get in a hurry.

OR, if you can spare the $230.00...

SoCalSal

My Feedback: (16)

I knew somone would balk at the price. I bet you would spend $100 on a good servo, but why?? you can get a servo for $25 bucks anywhere and spend the rest on beer:}

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Quite simply because $100.00 servos are necessary, a $230.00 balancing device isn't...

IF I thought it were THAT critical, I'd invest in two more postal scales to go with the one I have and do it by weighing the model and determining CG that way, as we do with full scale stuff and that's still half the price of your balancer...[8D]

SoCalSal

My Feedback: (16)

O.K. It may not be worth it to you but to me it is. And I can afford both $100 servos and a very accurite balancing machine

jonkoppisch

My Feedback: (162)

A friend built a small 'teeter totter'? for balancing his planes including his 46% ultimate. He said it's simple and works great!!!

Hooked-On-RC

My Feedback: (16)

There is no such thing as a quick trip to the hobby shop and it is like going to Costco, you never leave without spending at least 100 bucks!

teufelhund

My Feedback: (2)

Hi guys, Thanks for all the quick replies. I think I'm going to try to do it as you would a full scale plane. Anyone tell me how to do it with a biplane? Thanks, Ben

teufelhund

My Feedback: (2)

Hi guys, Thanks for all the quick replies. I think I'm going to try to do it as you would a full scale plane. Anyone tell me how to do it with a biplane? Thanks, Ben

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Well it doesn't matter whether it's a biplane, conventional gear or tricycle but it is a bit complicated if you've never done it before. When A&P mechanics do a weight and balance on a full scale they level the AC and put a scale under each wheel. Then you take the weight of each scale and figure the arm from the datum which is usually specified by the manufacturer, but you could determine your own i.e. the front of the spinner. So weight x arm = moment and that is divided by the total weight to get a CG in inches aft of the datum.

It's usually done on a work sheet and I have to go through the procedure in the maintenance manual to refresh my memory whenever we do one since it is so seldom done. You'll need some good scales to do that and the one I have here is a Postal scale and they are $40.00 at the USPS office, but that's less than a similar accuracy scale at an office supply store, so you'd be into it $120.00 for three scales...

I really think you'll be okay if you just follow the guidelines in the model assembly manual and do the finger tip thing, but if you're not comfortable with that, the EZ balancer may be the way to go for you?