lownslo

I have been reading all about how to "gas proof" my Solartex fabric and sealing other paints. I painted my cowl silver and put a decals on it. I then sealed the silver paint and decal, with Minwax clear satin, water soluable, polyurathane. I also did the same thing on a scrap piece of the fiberglass cowl. Everything dried, (cured), in my 70 degree shop for at least 2 weeks. The auto touch up silver I painted had dried at least 5 days before applying the polyU. They were fine with each other. I did my test today with my gas mix, 32:1, 89 octane Ammaco gas, and Lawn Boy ashless oil. (new engine). I am new to gas engines and this is my first gas project. (kit).I applied this gas mix to the polyurathane covered test piece and was blown away. Within about 5 seconds the gas had softened the polyurathane!![>:] I could not believe it. I am dismayed and in shock because everything I have read said PolyU was the way to go. Not only that, but the water soluable kind was advised too.
I have no spray equipment and I hate to use Splatterkote, (Lusterkote). It is good stuff but goes on terrible.[] Can someone tell me what I did wrong .....or ..... how and what do you use.
PS. This plane has a smoke system too. My G 26 is throwing out black goo on the test stand, so I need a GOOD sealer for the Solartex so I can do rugged cleaning!..... thanks in advance..lownslo.

Hammbone

My Feedback: (309)

I'm not sure about this, but Minwax is a brand of varnish. Did you use varnish?
You were probably supposed to use a ployurathane paint not varnish.
Maybe that's the problem???

Jim

Flying Hog

I was told to use the Oil base Poly over Solartex....Guess I'll find out

lownslo

Hi Jim, No....... It was definately PolyU. that was used. Minwax make several different products. They call this PolyCrylic. I used it because it doesn't yellow. The can of regular PolyU says not to use over white or pastels as it has an "ambering effect". (yellowing). In fact......on the can...... they then suggest to use PolyCrylic over white. I don't think the water based stuff can handle raw gas. (a spill). Anyway..... thanks and I am doing tests now with the regular MinWax PolyU. .....lownslo.

marshred

See many problems....

Urethane varnish; oil or water base; will not stand up to gasoline. I used to sell industrial coatings and only two part polyurethane paint or clear coat will resist solvents/gasoline. Polycrylic is actually an acrylic type coating that is not the same coating material. True poly is a two part coating requiring a catalyst to harden like an epoxy. They make flexible clear coat poly for automotive use. I have used it to refinish uv damaged gel coat on boats. Works great.
Hope this helps.

lownslo

Oh Oh..... I am in deep doo doo now.[] I do not have, and do not plan to buy spray equipment. I am really bummed now. ..... lownslo

mstroh3961

My Feedback: (4)

The places that sell automotive paint can mix the pant and catalyst then place it in shaker cans. will remain usable for approximately 24-48 hrs depending on brand and ambient temp.

Skyking-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

lownslo,
something you might consider, is to make a fixture to hold it and take it to a couple of local bodyshops. Ask them what they would charge to spray it WHEN THEY ARE SPRAYING A CLEARCOAT FOR A CAR. It may take a week of 2 to get it back but they might not charge you too much as they are not setting up just to do your job. The heli guys do this alot with their canopys as most run 30% nitro and it is tuff on paint jobs. We have typically seen charges of $15-20 or a case of the bodyman's favorite beer. I think the key is to have it mounted to a stand, ready to paint so all they have to do is tack it and spray.

good luck

Terry

lownslo

Hmmmmmmm. Thanks Terry. That is a good alternative!!..... lownslo