YAK 54 TOC1
#4377
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
I thik this is a link. if not go to page 165 of this forum and you can see how someone else did it. And no i didnt have to cut through a former.
Click for fullsize
Click for fullsize
#4378
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
His rudder servo is pretty far back and he made his own mount for it. I used the supplied mount and put it up against the cannister tunnel to help with cg. I think it may still come out tail heavy. Maybe the difference in where the servo is mounted is what the issue with the former is. I notched the former out so the cable wouldn't rub. The dremel just barely fit down through and I used the opposite side elevator servo open to see what I was doing.
#4379
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
Maiden flight today. WOW!! Two flights were awesome with dl 50. Balanced right on wing tube, but flew jus a tad nose heavy. A few clicks of aleron and elev and all was sweet flying. Flew inverted at 45 deg and she continued on the same angle with hands off sticks. Tried a flat spin, harrier, hover, and waterfalls all were excuted with ease. Landings were almost automatic, she just floated right to the ground. I can see where the landing gear will be a bit week on rough landings. All in all she is one sweet plane, my first 50cc... Im-a loving it.
#4380
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
Hey RC,
what did your AUW end up at? I just finished mine today, had to order a new rudder servo. I was going to use a JR Z9000T I had from my truggy which was good for close to 300 oz torque but it was having jittering issues so I ordered a Hitec 7955TG to replace it. I took her out and got her fired up and started the break in. It took a while to get it started but once it was started after it was shut down within two or three flips with the choke off it would come to life. I got anxious and wanted to get some rpm numbers. I am using a 22 x 8 TBM prop which some people say aren't good but at first I got 6100 without touching the needles and with just a hair on the high needle I got 6700 and then I turned it back to factory to break it in. I figured I better quit while I was ahead.
what did your AUW end up at? I just finished mine today, had to order a new rudder servo. I was going to use a JR Z9000T I had from my truggy which was good for close to 300 oz torque but it was having jittering issues so I ordered a Hitec 7955TG to replace it. I took her out and got her fired up and started the break in. It took a while to get it started but once it was started after it was shut down within two or three flips with the choke off it would come to life. I got anxious and wanted to get some rpm numbers. I am using a 22 x 8 TBM prop which some people say aren't good but at first I got 6100 without touching the needles and with just a hair on the high needle I got 6700 and then I turned it back to factory to break it in. I figured I better quit while I was ahead.
#4381
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
That is the same rpms as i got, and i did hear the same thing bout the TBM props... First flight was at 18.8 lbs, then added ex battery and smoke tank, secound day was at 19 lbs, smoke pump was already installed for the first flight. I really noticed the 1/2 lb weight added. So I took out the smoke pump, battery, tank, and one of the battries for my rx. I droped the weight down to 17.5 lbs. havent flowen yet. I really wanted the smoke, so i thinking i might sell the DL to a buddy and get a evo 58. Im gunna do all i can to make the DL work first though. Cause I think that flying this plane at 17 lbs will be alot nicer than at 20 lbs.
#4382
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
Could you share the rx battery to power the smoke pump? Also why not drop the gas tank down to say 16oz which should still be plenty for 10-15 minute flights and then have a 8oz smoke tank? I am just guessing as I have never messed with a smoke system before. The plane is going to fly alot better at 17lbs then 20lbs obviously. I need to weigh mine, I have no idea what it is. I had a heck of a time keeping the tail from being heavy. I think it may still be a touch tail heavy but we'll see once I get my new servo for the rudder.
#4383
RE: YAK 54 TOC1
I originally stayed away from this plane cause the older ones were a bit heavy. I guess the new stuff from SD is much lighter I have heard, does anyone have a "new" one from TT that could give me some weights & S/U? I would appreciate it I am @ 5000asl so weight is really important!
Thanks 871
Thanks 871
#4387
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
I picked up this plane used it was built but never flown then they pulled all elect. and motor off. The plane is set up for da50 when I put my da on the plane the motor sticks out like 1.5 in. are you guys setting this thing up that way our did the guy who built. this one screw up. thanks the runner
#4388
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
ORIGINAL: 69 roadrunner
I picked up this plane used it was built but never flown then they pulled all elect. and motor off. The plane is set up for da50 when I put my da on the plane the motor sticks out like 1.5 in. are you guys setting this thing up that way our did the guy who built. this one screw up. thanks the runner
I picked up this plane used it was built but never flown then they pulled all elect. and motor off. The plane is set up for da50 when I put my da on the plane the motor sticks out like 1.5 in. are you guys setting this thing up that way our did the guy who built. this one screw up. thanks the runner
#4389
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
Bob thanks for the info what servos are you guys using do I need a lot of tourqe Iam going to fly a little 3d but dont know how to do most three d stuff but would like to learn thanks the runner
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
ORIGINAL: 69 roadrunner
Bob thanks for the info what servos are you guys using do I need a lot of tourqe Iam going to fly a little 3d but dont know how to do most three d stuff but would like to learn thanks the runner
Bob thanks for the info what servos are you guys using do I need a lot of tourqe Iam going to fly a little 3d but dont know how to do most three d stuff but would like to learn thanks the runner
Hey runner,
I think it is best to stay at 180oz torque on the servos for ailerons and elevators and something with 250oz + on the rudder. I put hitec hs5985MG on the flying surfaces and they are quick and pretty strong, and I put a hitec hs7995TG on the rudder. You are better off spending the money on good servos that can move to other frames for when the inevitable happens.
#4391
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
Mine has been finished for about a week now. I ran in to problems with the local flying field, apparently some can fly a 10' wing spanned cub but yet was told that my yak was too big and not appropriate for the field. Apparently some of the members are against 3d flying but yet their AMA description shows 3d accepted. Anyway I will be joining a different field and also flying here at the house occasionally. I measured the auw on mine, I don't know how trusty the scale is but it came in at 16lbs 6oz with a 1/4 tank of fuel.
#4392
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
To those who are putting Hitec 5985 servo's on their planes. I would like to draw to your attention that there is only about a $10. to $15.00 difference in the cost of these servo's. Now consider that you are going to get a great deal more use out of the 5955 or 7955 servo's before you have to replace the gears in them because of slop. The gears set for the 5985 servo's are $18.95 at Servo City the gear set for the 5955 servo's are $7.95 it does not make sense to me to even consider a 5985 unless you are on a very tight budget or you find an incredibly good deal on the 5985 servo's. You can pay them now or you can pay them later. Just something to think about.
Thanks!
Edward.
Thanks!
Edward.
#4394
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
To reply to RCWI & Turd1,
I recently purchased a TOC1 30% yak here on RCU. I must it was a very nice built with all good stuff. Set up was DA50, carbon 22x8 prop, 5955 all around, 3 ion batt & regs, 2 for the receiver and 1 for ignition ect.... I purchased the plane for a back up / second 3D plane. After my first couple flights I found that it was very slow on hover pull outs and it was actually a bit scary. Performed well for fast 3d flying but was a lug for slow low 3D.
It turns out the plane wieght was close to 20LBS before fuel. A 750cc fuel tank (26 OZ) fueled weight is another 2 lbs. That means it was pulling 22LBS. Wow, weight.
I put a tach on it and I was getting 7150-7200 RPM. That is realy good. Engine has been well broken in and it runs like a dream. After the first start, it starts one flip all day!
Anyways, I wanted to get the wieght down but was not sure what to do. Did alot of reading here on RCU and TBM. (Troy built models). One of the tips mentioned by TBM is that if your gonna shave weight, go big ot dont bother. So I did, final weight in at 17 LBS 2 OZ.
Here is what I did:
- carbon Wing & stad p/n: JAE12.5x450 & JAE25x920 (had to sand down wing tube to fit.
- Karvan 3" tires p/n: K3
- MPI titanium axles p/n: MPIWA205
- GraphTech CF tailwheel assembly
- replaced Rudder cable with Kevlar p/n: TBMppckevlar
These items where basicaly bolt ons, other things included:
- no spinner (like the look and saved 4 oz) Also helped with balance
- removed floor and dash panels in canopy.
- removed servo cable connectors and just used fish line.
- removed excese tape, foam, tie wraps ect...
- removed receiver box (was not stock, this was added by previous owner
- no springs on tailwheel (wheel will follow when taxi, just use high rates for better control) also helps to remove weight on tail.
- removed excess wood in fuse, some areas dont need to be their (this is only recomended when you know what your doing)
These are all little tricks I did to remove wight, and what a difference, pull outs are great!, rolling circles with 1/8" or less throttle, walls etc.... its now feels like a 14 lbs plane.
Another thing I did was installed the fuel tank in the can area centered on CG. This helps with balance so the flying feel does not change when you are running out of fuel.
Anyways, so sum it up, to make a difference you needs to do lots, do some reading and it also depends on your buget. I am telling you it makes the worl of a difference and it will fell like a new plane!
Let me know if you have any question as to what I did, I will do my best to help.
Rolly
I recently purchased a TOC1 30% yak here on RCU. I must it was a very nice built with all good stuff. Set up was DA50, carbon 22x8 prop, 5955 all around, 3 ion batt & regs, 2 for the receiver and 1 for ignition ect.... I purchased the plane for a back up / second 3D plane. After my first couple flights I found that it was very slow on hover pull outs and it was actually a bit scary. Performed well for fast 3d flying but was a lug for slow low 3D.
It turns out the plane wieght was close to 20LBS before fuel. A 750cc fuel tank (26 OZ) fueled weight is another 2 lbs. That means it was pulling 22LBS. Wow, weight.
I put a tach on it and I was getting 7150-7200 RPM. That is realy good. Engine has been well broken in and it runs like a dream. After the first start, it starts one flip all day!
Anyways, I wanted to get the wieght down but was not sure what to do. Did alot of reading here on RCU and TBM. (Troy built models). One of the tips mentioned by TBM is that if your gonna shave weight, go big ot dont bother. So I did, final weight in at 17 LBS 2 OZ.
Here is what I did:
- carbon Wing & stad p/n: JAE12.5x450 & JAE25x920 (had to sand down wing tube to fit.
- Karvan 3" tires p/n: K3
- MPI titanium axles p/n: MPIWA205
- GraphTech CF tailwheel assembly
- replaced Rudder cable with Kevlar p/n: TBMppckevlar
These items where basicaly bolt ons, other things included:
- no spinner (like the look and saved 4 oz) Also helped with balance
- removed floor and dash panels in canopy.
- removed servo cable connectors and just used fish line.
- removed excese tape, foam, tie wraps ect...
- removed receiver box (was not stock, this was added by previous owner
- no springs on tailwheel (wheel will follow when taxi, just use high rates for better control) also helps to remove weight on tail.
- removed excess wood in fuse, some areas dont need to be their (this is only recomended when you know what your doing)
These are all little tricks I did to remove wight, and what a difference, pull outs are great!, rolling circles with 1/8" or less throttle, walls etc.... its now feels like a 14 lbs plane.
Another thing I did was installed the fuel tank in the can area centered on CG. This helps with balance so the flying feel does not change when you are running out of fuel.
Anyways, so sum it up, to make a difference you needs to do lots, do some reading and it also depends on your buget. I am telling you it makes the worl of a difference and it will fell like a new plane!
Let me know if you have any question as to what I did, I will do my best to help.
Rolly
#4395
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
That's awesome info Rolly. You definitely did alot of work but sounds like it was well worth it. I am guessing it was an older kit. Seems like the newer ones are lighter. Mine came in at 16lbs 6oz with a 1/4 tank. I want to drop down to a 16oz tank eventually but for now will use the stocker. I also have it mounted dead center of the wing tube in the can tunnel. I also have the graphtec tail wheel which I think may actually be heavier then the stocker but I didn't trust it. That is a good idea with the springs and would save weight, I may have to give it a try. I also added the carbon stab tube and I didn't use a spinner either. Yaks just don't look right with a spinner and I like to see the bolts holding the prop.
#4396
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
Thanks fo the info. My yak is tail heavy so i will have to move stuff around. Sence it is tail heavy the spinner and wheels are a key part in balence. Were did you cut out the access wood.
thanks Dean
thanks Dean
#4397
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
High turd,
I didn't cut out any excess wood in mine and I don't have the spinner on but I do have the wheel pants on(they didn't make as much of a difference as I thought they would. I put the rudder servo up tight against the canister tunnel, spaced the motor out to where there is almost an 1" of clearance, my batts(2) are on the motor box and I put in a carbon fiber stab tube and graphtec tail wheel. Right now mine balances at the back edge of the wing tube with the wings off and canopy on so it should be close. I will probably have to move it back some but I have yet to do a maiden.
I didn't cut out any excess wood in mine and I don't have the spinner on but I do have the wheel pants on(they didn't make as much of a difference as I thought they would. I put the rudder servo up tight against the canister tunnel, spaced the motor out to where there is almost an 1" of clearance, my batts(2) are on the motor box and I put in a carbon fiber stab tube and graphtec tail wheel. Right now mine balances at the back edge of the wing tube with the wings off and canopy on so it should be close. I will probably have to move it back some but I have yet to do a maiden.
#4398
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
I moved my batteries up in to the engine box. my wheel pants got damaged so i took them off. I have a pitts style muffler and i was thingking of cuting lighting holes right in front of the wing tube sleave. I will get it flying lighter once i can get the muffler to stay on. Is J.B weld good for heat. The boult are resest in to the muffler. i fild the hole with J.B weld and drilled it fot the boult so it whould be on the out side of the muffler. I also drilled hole in the head of the scews and wierd them to gether do they whouldn't turn and back out.
Thanks
Thanks
#4400
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RE: YAK 54 TOC1
First of all it gets it out of the way. Second you place it in the tunnel in the center of the wing tube so it is on the CG; that way as your tank empties the flying characteristics do not change due to a change in your cg. I personally think you are getting a little too carried away with trying to lighten this plane at 16 to 16.5 LBs it fly's great and pulls out of a hover with plenty of authority. Unless possibly you are pretty high above sea level.
Happy Fying!
Edward
Happy Fying!
Edward