Barry Cazier

My Feedback: (17)

nonstoprc...

So...that's how it's done. Looks like it's really up to judges. However, is there a "master" judge that would declare this plane legal or non-legal? Has there been a determination done? I know on AirWild's website it states this is a great plane for IMAC. They must think it's legal.

What is your opinion? Is it legal?

Thanks
Barry

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

Barry,

I have no idea. As indicated by the IMAC rules, contest judges make the final decision. Note that up to 10% deviation is acceptable.

From the AW260 pictures published by AW website, the narrower chord is a distinct feature. Maybe we can go from there by measuring and comparing measurements with those of a full scale one?

--qc

rpmrpm

My Feedback: (1)

Was building tonight and came up w/ a very simple way of making sure the G10 control horns came out at the right height and and on the hinge line. I first made it for the rudder in a attempt to make sure both halfs (why didn't they make it 1 piece?) came out level and on line. If this has been covered sorry, if not it may help others in the future.

kmp647

Anyone have a link to the guy here on rcu selling carbon wing tubes?

I cant find the ad , he had em for the AW 260

Id rather get it from airwild but they dont have em yet

Kevin

juanes1969

Kevin, the e-mail for the guy that sells the tubes is this:
[email protected]
His name is Alan in JAE R/C models.
Fast and safe service.

John

NuttyPro

I only have this a/c for about 4 months but the engine is already showing some damage to the front housing where the front bearing is. My DA50 was brandnew when installed on this airplane. The reason being that the engine box is too weak. Very often the engine will come loose because the engine box allows the engine to wiggle too much. One can tell by grapping the engine by the spinner and try to move it sideways, updown. I recommended that all owners should stiffen up the engine box to make it rigid. This destructive motion is the same as if you are using the softmount. If the front housing wears out too much, the whole engine crankcase will needs to be replaced and don't expect DA to honors the warranty.

dougtx

NuttyPro,

4 months? How much actual flight time do you have? I have an AW 260 with a Taurus TS-52 running a 23x8 Xoar. I have 15+ hours of actual flight time (60+ 15 minute flights) and I do not see any signs of wear on the engine or airframe.

Even at 14.95 lbs ready to fly it appears to be holding together nicely, and I have been flying the mess out of it.

NuttyPro

Not sure how many flights, but I flew it a lot. About 6 flights per weekend on average. Periodically check the engine and make sure it is not loose. I found that my engine came loose twice even with red locktite. Just a couples of flights with a loose engine, the damage sign will show on your engine.

dougtx

Thanks for the heads up, I will keep a close eye on it.

Did you do anything to strengthen the engine box?

NuttyPro

I've already crashed mine. If I buy another model, I'll put some carbon fiber strips on the inside of the engine box.

dougtx

I was thinking about applying a very light glass cloth. Same typed used with fiberglassing an entire airframes.


Did you happen to contact AW about this?

Railinrob

nuttypro is not the only one with some hiccups on an otherwise excellent plane.My buddy has one and it needed a repair(reglue) for almost every one first 8 or so flights and it's never been crashed and so far the engine box has broken (cracked right past the firewall in that big cutout) and half the hatch tiedowns failed in flight cuasing the hatch to fly off in flight ,hitting the elvator half bending the rear stab tube,and the landing gear ply sheet split on the second landing . He still has it and has no problems since fixing all those things and the guys at AW know about it and were very quite amazed at what had happened.
I'm not puttting this plane down in anyway IMHO this plane flies awesome , its just a heads up for some possible things to look for.

Rob

dougtx

I don't think its about putting an airplane down, its about letting others know what to look out for and prevent issues.

Having been in the hobby for over 18 years, and seeing all types of airplanes, kits, arf's, etc.., all have been lacking in some fashion or another, its just a mater of who is lacking the least, and which ones take the least amount of effort to keep in once piece.

I had totally forgot about the hatch mounting blocks, I did actually have two of them come off. Could have been from over tightening though, but it was an easy fix and just re-glued them in.

I have considered replacing the blocks with some sort of hatch release set up, using 6 screws to hold the hatch on is a pain sometimes, and given that it has dowels in the front, it shouldn't take too much to keep the hatch on.

The only modification I did to mine was use 6 bolts for the cowling instead of 4, and glued some 1/8 ply blocks to the inside of the cowling to allow you to seat the screws down better.

I just felt that 4 screws were not sufficient for holding the cowling on.

Other than that the plane has held up well and no real signs of wear.

I am seriously considering glassing the engine box with really light cloth, shouldn't add much weight at all, maybe 1/2 oz.

NuttyPro

When the plane was new, I had to re-glue the hinges 3 times. After each flight, the hinges came off. I eventually got so pissed. I just pin the hinges in place. I really hated this CA hinges on big airplanes. But after all that is fixed, and spent sometimes on the aircraft and learned what it can do and can't do, I started to overlooked the earlier problem. I like the way the plane performance on 3D, although it is hard to get into a water fall manuver. Also people, becarefull with your wingtube. It bends easily. Before I bought this A/C, I made airwild (Jerry) aware that this wingtube will bend easily because of my experience with wildhare extra 300; but Jerry assured me that it couldn't possibly bend doesn't matter what manuver you tried. As far as I know, a few peoples here in southern california have brought the wingtube back to Jerry and demanded a replacement. As for me, I've already bent the wingtube.
I'm still in the debate of whether I want to buy this airwild again or go with the BME (PAU) extra. I had both planes before, and to be honest, both performed very close. However, the airwild seems to fly a little bit better. But the BME extra is a much better investment because of the hardware that came with it; also, better engineering.

NuttyPro

In addition, this a/c is a hover king. It hovers and torque roll just as good and easy as the 33% counterparts.

agexpert

My Feedback: (1)

OK,

I FINALLY got the derned thing flying. I only have about 3 gallons thru it. I have some issues I think some of you may be able to help me with.

1) It looks like I need more RT than is built into the Firewall. Has anyone else needed to add RT? (DA 50).

2) I can't get a good blow-over even on high rates. The tail will not slide, it tracks too well. (8611a on tail).

3) I am having a bit of trouble deciding how to adjust my power curve. This thing pulls up in hovers, or slides. It seems I am betwween throttle-clicks for a stable hover.

4) I am running a fast idle. My DA is unreliable at low idle and has dead-sticked. Is it too rich?

5) Mixing? It seems to be OK in KE, but I wonder if anyone has some, 'must-do' mixes for this plane.


Thanks



This is my first gasser under 22 lbs (50cc). I like the plane...still getting used to it. Mine came in AUW 15.5 lbs...dunno why.

NuttyPro

I didn't need to put in anymore right thrust than what already built in and the airplane hovered great, just 2-3 clicks of right ruder trim with fine trim rate(2 out of 4-coarse). I had a DA 50 with the bisson wraparound muffler. My ignition battery is on the wingtube with my receiver and the receiver battery was at the end of the servo tray (rudder). Ignition box is on the engine box. I also replaced the tail gear with the carbon fiber gear. With this setup, the CG was almost perfect. I could have move the CG aft a little bit more.
Check your CG. Mine came out almost 15lbs. I used nmh batteries - 4 cells on ign, 5 cells on recv. Normal alum. spinner with a couples of holes drilled out to lightened it up a bit.

NuttyPro

I think you need to adjust your engine - both high and low needle valves. Adjusting the DA is very easy.
You need mixing for KE about 10%. Same elev. direction for both directions of rudder. One direction of the rudder req'd about 2% less elev than the other.
You need to smoothout the rachet from your throttle gimbal and use the NX prop. I tried both the NX and Xoar props on mine; but in my opinion, the NX prop makes hovering a little easier because you are running at higher rpm during hovering. The Xoar prop pulls a lot more than the NX prop. I have no problem with either prop.
Periodically check your engine to make sure it does not coming loose because of the weak engine box. Good luck

dougtx

Can someone tell me the difference between the NX and XOAR standard props?

I am unable to tell the difference, I have both the NX and XOAR, 23x8.

If you put them side by side they look identical, I even took measurements of the blade thickness, taper, length, width, etc.. and I am unable to tell the difference other than the label.

Both seem to run the same.

I heard somewhere they both came from XOAR, just different labels.

Barry Cazier

My Feedback: (17)

dougtx...

I just tried a Xoar vs NX 22x8. The NX had faster spool up and made hovering a little easier. Also the flat spins were easier with the NX. I can't explain that but it would get flatter.

When I set the two props side by side on my building matte, I could see a difference in the taper but they are pretty close. The NX was 3/4 oz lighter than the Xoar. The Xoar gave me about 1/2 lb more thrust than the NX.

After my test...I went back to the NX. I just liked the "feel" of it better.

Next I've got a Menz prop coming. It should be here today. I hope to do the same test on it.

thanks
Barry

dougtx

True, weight was one factor that I noticed different. I just didn't take that into account as even when I buy the same size from the same manufacturer there is slight differences in weight.

NuttyPro

The NX and the Xoar props are 2 different props. The NX does not have as much pull as the Xoar, therefore allowing the engine to spool-up faster and running at higher RPM. Whereas the Xoar prop pull a lot harder and it will hover 15bls airplanes with much less rpm. I recommend running the NX prop on models less than 15.5lbs and running the Xoar prop on models heavier than 16lbs. The DA50 will turn the Xoar prop 23x8 without any problem.

I didn't have any problem running both props on the extra260. But when switching from an NX to a Xoar 23x8, you may have a little problem getting use to the new Xoar prop because of lower hovering rpm. Just a few hovering practice, you'll get use to it.

NuttyPro

By the way, the NX and TBM are the same props. It was made the same manufacturer. At least I was told by TBM that and they look and feel the same.

bart-rennes

Can someone tell me which wings profile (Naca 64A-010, E168,...) is used, i need to repair one wing.

ChrisK7

My Feedback: (14)

I just ordered one of these planes. I plan to use the DL-50, Jtec wrap around large volume pitts muff for the DA, (same as the DL I think?), and 5945's for servo's.

Looking forward to trying it out.