29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
11-05-2006, 08:52 PM
#1
29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
Happy Happy! I decided that I wanted to try a lighter airframe for IMAC next year. I ordered at 4pm and the great folks at Air Wild had mine on the UPS truck the same day! It moved across the country during the weekend and they delivered it to me in OK on Tuesday. Not bad. Heres some pics as opened. The bad news is that I had to leave town and won't be back till the 12th or so to start strippin' my ol' yak. BTW the AM Yak is for sale.
11-16-2006, 03:39 AM
#3
RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
Sorry I've been so quite but when I got home I couldn't keep my hands off the airplane. I considered all the other 30% airframes as last years ship was the AM Yak-54. It was a great airplane but was too heavy for more advanced IMAC sequences. I flew it in the Basic class and it was a great learning platform. The reason I decided to switch was the power to weight issue. I almost got the Wild Hare "the bunny" 260 because the numbers were good and its a good kit. Many great features such as the polished gear. I got a chance to fly the WH 260 and it wasn't bad but it didn't seem as stable as my AM Yak. It has less wing span and I think thats some of it. After flying the bunny I ordered my AW. I'm glad I chose the AW now that I have flown it as well. The others were simply too heavy. I choose the Air Wild Extra because of its advertised weight. AW is very specific, as the other MFG's should be, about how they arrived at that weight. I must say that at the end of the day the proof is in the puddin'. The numbers game is great but if a system flies well and meets all your desires then it doesn't matter what the numbers are. That said, Air Wild really did their homework on this one and 14 lbs 12oz is a spot on figure if you use all the components AW suggests. I figured that I would spend a bunch more money on the other airframes to get them as light as the AW so that made the extra cost of the AW a push. The $618 dollars delivered price was worth every penny.
The pictures and the AW video don't do this airplane justice. I was planning on stripping the covering off of it because I think four colors is just too busy. When I opened the box and pulled the first part out of its plastic bag I was very impressed. I fell in love with the quality and the color scheme. The ironing process went very well. None of the covering tried to melt and none of the seams tried to bleed out when I sealed the edges. The build took me about 18 hours and I'm a slow builder. There are some things I would like to mention for those of you that are going to be getting one of these.
Components:
PSP Titanium axles
Kvan 3" tires
3 Hitec 5955TG's (Ailerons and rudder) way overkill but I had 'em and like the reduced wear of the TG v.s. MG
1 Hitec 225MG (Throttle)
2 Hitec 5945MG's (Elevators)
CF tailwheel
Smart Fly BattShare
3 Smart Fly DSC heavy duty switches. (One switch for each battery.)
1 600mah 4.8v pack (emergency flight battery in case of a failure in the primary battery system...such as a bad switch, dead cell, ect.)
1 2500mah 6.0v pack (primary flight battery)
1 2500mah 4.8v pack (ignition)
DA-50-R
Old spinner from my AM Yak (Heavy at 8oz) Will replace and update my weights later.
Dubro 16oz fuel tank. (Went with the smaller tank as I only fly 11 minutes max. No point in hauling the extra 4oz that won't get used.)
1 Hanger 9 fuel dot with "T" fitting.
Dubro 4-40 Pull Pull kit.
Nelson heavy duty and Extra heavy duty rod ends. ( The Extra HD ends are wider and work well on the control surface side.)
2 Hanger 9 Ti turnbuckles 1.5" as recommended by AW. These fit perfectly!
#4 flat washers to put on the outside of the rod ends....cheap insurance.
4-40 "S" nuts for all control horns.
Antenna tube and a sleeve for the elevator wires.
Foam pilot figure from 3W.
SWB Servo horns.
23x8 NX prop
Central Hobbies servo mounting screws. (I love these! Thanks Dale>>>FREEBEE!)
Velcro, foam, zip ties, and some other crap I probably forgot.
AW has a very good parts list. The ONLY mistake I found was when using hitec servos you need 12" extensions and not the 6" that they call for. I plan to give them a heads up on this issue.
The manual includes a template for DA mounting and its perfect. I simply ligned up the template and drilled pilot holes then removed the template and drilled the final size. The engine bolted on with NO problems. Really nice template! The one thing that they don't address is the need for a hole in the fire wall for the carb and for the throttle linkage. DA requries it and the subject is covered in DA's manual. I fuel proofed the firewall which was also not covered in the manual. Just my preference.
The cowling has to be mounted further aft than the 33.5mm they call for in the manual...and yes I'm using stock DA mounts just as the AW manual calls for. The 33.5mm is a bad dimension. The cowl is easy to mount and easy to trim.
On the wing the servo extension needs to exit out the hole just aft of the wing bolt hole. When you put the servo in the lead tries to go into the second bay aft of the hole but no big deal.
I also hardened my incidence dowls with CA....the manual doesn't mention doing this but it's my preference.
The wings attach with one 4mm bolt which is very nice and easy to access...unlike the bunny. I did have to enlarge the bolt hole in the rib to gain unobstructed acces to the threads in the blind nut. I like being able to turn screws by hand until they seat, then use a wrench.
The airplane comes with the sullivan tailwheel and IMO they are junk. I had one on my AM Yak for a while and it didn't last very long.
IF this is your first gasser>>>>LOCKTITE EVERYTHING with Blue!
I'm running a clipped stock DA muffler and I cut the stack as well. Looks good and runs well. Light too!
I made up some temporary control rods for the elevators using 4-40 all thread which is very heavy. This will be replaced as soon I get the Central Hobbies CF/Ti setup.
14lbs 12oz is easily possiable using AW specs but mine is heavier as I added/changed some things on the component list.
Weights that matter as built to my specs thus far:
All up with NO FUEL = 15lbs 12oz
All up with 16oz Fuel and ready to fly = 16lbs 7oz
After a 1 minute warm up and run up and a 10 minute flight flying IMAC manuvers I had 7oz of fuel remaining. Weight after landing was 16lbs 1oz.
FYI weights:
Main Landing gear (Very strong unit, unlike the other kits.) = 8.2oz
Wing Spar tube = 6.2oz
Tail Spar tube = .9 oz
PSP Ti axles = .8oz
Kavan Tires 3" = 1.8oz
Wheel Pants = 4.3oz
Flight report to come but its late...
This birds the best flying 30%er I've ever flown! It didn't even slow down doing vertical snaps! I'm in love and that was only the first test flight.
The pictures and the AW video don't do this airplane justice. I was planning on stripping the covering off of it because I think four colors is just too busy. When I opened the box and pulled the first part out of its plastic bag I was very impressed. I fell in love with the quality and the color scheme. The ironing process went very well. None of the covering tried to melt and none of the seams tried to bleed out when I sealed the edges. The build took me about 18 hours and I'm a slow builder. There are some things I would like to mention for those of you that are going to be getting one of these.
Components:
PSP Titanium axles
Kvan 3" tires
3 Hitec 5955TG's (Ailerons and rudder) way overkill but I had 'em and like the reduced wear of the TG v.s. MG
1 Hitec 225MG (Throttle)
2 Hitec 5945MG's (Elevators)
CF tailwheel
Smart Fly BattShare
3 Smart Fly DSC heavy duty switches. (One switch for each battery.)
1 600mah 4.8v pack (emergency flight battery in case of a failure in the primary battery system...such as a bad switch, dead cell, ect.)
1 2500mah 6.0v pack (primary flight battery)
1 2500mah 4.8v pack (ignition)
DA-50-R
Old spinner from my AM Yak (Heavy at 8oz) Will replace and update my weights later.
Dubro 16oz fuel tank. (Went with the smaller tank as I only fly 11 minutes max. No point in hauling the extra 4oz that won't get used.)
1 Hanger 9 fuel dot with "T" fitting.
Dubro 4-40 Pull Pull kit.
Nelson heavy duty and Extra heavy duty rod ends. ( The Extra HD ends are wider and work well on the control surface side.)
2 Hanger 9 Ti turnbuckles 1.5" as recommended by AW. These fit perfectly!
#4 flat washers to put on the outside of the rod ends....cheap insurance.
4-40 "S" nuts for all control horns.
Antenna tube and a sleeve for the elevator wires.
Foam pilot figure from 3W.
SWB Servo horns.
23x8 NX prop
Central Hobbies servo mounting screws. (I love these! Thanks Dale>>>FREEBEE!)
Velcro, foam, zip ties, and some other crap I probably forgot.
AW has a very good parts list. The ONLY mistake I found was when using hitec servos you need 12" extensions and not the 6" that they call for. I plan to give them a heads up on this issue.
The manual includes a template for DA mounting and its perfect. I simply ligned up the template and drilled pilot holes then removed the template and drilled the final size. The engine bolted on with NO problems. Really nice template! The one thing that they don't address is the need for a hole in the fire wall for the carb and for the throttle linkage. DA requries it and the subject is covered in DA's manual. I fuel proofed the firewall which was also not covered in the manual. Just my preference.
The cowling has to be mounted further aft than the 33.5mm they call for in the manual...and yes I'm using stock DA mounts just as the AW manual calls for. The 33.5mm is a bad dimension. The cowl is easy to mount and easy to trim.
On the wing the servo extension needs to exit out the hole just aft of the wing bolt hole. When you put the servo in the lead tries to go into the second bay aft of the hole but no big deal.
I also hardened my incidence dowls with CA....the manual doesn't mention doing this but it's my preference.
The wings attach with one 4mm bolt which is very nice and easy to access...unlike the bunny. I did have to enlarge the bolt hole in the rib to gain unobstructed acces to the threads in the blind nut. I like being able to turn screws by hand until they seat, then use a wrench.
The airplane comes with the sullivan tailwheel and IMO they are junk. I had one on my AM Yak for a while and it didn't last very long.
IF this is your first gasser>>>>LOCKTITE EVERYTHING with Blue!
I'm running a clipped stock DA muffler and I cut the stack as well. Looks good and runs well. Light too!
I made up some temporary control rods for the elevators using 4-40 all thread which is very heavy. This will be replaced as soon I get the Central Hobbies CF/Ti setup.
14lbs 12oz is easily possiable using AW specs but mine is heavier as I added/changed some things on the component list.
Weights that matter as built to my specs thus far:
All up with NO FUEL = 15lbs 12oz
All up with 16oz Fuel and ready to fly = 16lbs 7oz
After a 1 minute warm up and run up and a 10 minute flight flying IMAC manuvers I had 7oz of fuel remaining. Weight after landing was 16lbs 1oz.
FYI weights:
Main Landing gear (Very strong unit, unlike the other kits.) = 8.2oz
Wing Spar tube = 6.2oz
Tail Spar tube = .9 oz
PSP Ti axles = .8oz
Kavan Tires 3" = 1.8oz
Wheel Pants = 4.3oz
Flight report to come but its late...
This birds the best flying 30%er I've ever flown! It didn't even slow down doing vertical snaps! I'm in love and that was only the first test flight.
11-16-2006, 08:22 AM
#6
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
757 Driver. Nice pics and good looking build. I am planning and getting one of these this winter to replace my WH Edge. The Edge has been a really good and durable performer for me. Was curious as to your thoughts on the control horns. I have not used that kind before and wondered how the installed and are they as sturdy as others. Also, in your pic of the plane it looks as if the cowl paint doesnt match the covering real well. Is that true or does it just look that way. I know lighting can play tricks on the eye sometime. Will be interested in hearing more of your flight reports. i have liked this plane since first seeing it and wanted something a little lighter than the old Edge.
11-16-2006, 08:27 AM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
Those phenolic horns are awesome... and are double truss nt he elevators/ailerons. EF has used them on thier designs and we'll see them on new QQ designs too...
Easy to install and strong. Love 'em.
The paint probably does not match exactly... several have mentioned this on other threads. Seems purple is the hardets to match as the covering itself shifts colors from batch to batch moreso than other colors.
Still it looks fairly close...
Easy to install and strong. Love 'em.
The paint probably does not match exactly... several have mentioned this on other threads. Seems purple is the hardets to match as the covering itself shifts colors from batch to batch moreso than other colors.
Still it looks fairly close...
11-16-2006, 10:20 AM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
757Driver...Great looking build. I have one also. Love it. You mentioned the manual is wrong for the set back of the cowl. My manual came with an adendem that said to move the engine out 1/4". They suggest doing this with 1/4" ply. Here's a picture of how I did mine. That's why your cowl didn't match up.
I'm with Maudib on the phenolic horns. This was the first time I used them also but I love them and they are very stout.
My paint doesn't match the covering either, but as I suggested in the "other" thread this is by design to help 3D pilots focus during hovering maneuvers. It draws your eyes to the canopy area.
Mine weighs 14lbs 14ozs with a Slimline muffler (adds 4.5 ozs) and no wheel pants. I don't have a redundant battery but did add some aluminum angle iron to make the engine mount a bit stronger. I also used a SmartFly optical kill switch.
Thanks
Barry
11-16-2006, 10:33 AM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
PS...I think the adendum called out the 12" servo leads also.
I flew mine yesterday. Cold and breezy but still fun. This plane handles the wind pretty nicely.
Thanks
Barry
11-16-2006, 10:44 AM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
Can I ask what length engine standoffs are you using?
I am looking for the minimal distance from the firewall that allows to eliminate the center hole.
In one of my planes I get a lot of fuel splatter into the engine box through the hole...
ORIGINAL: 757Driver
And a few more cause you guys are as bad as I am...
And a few more cause you guys are as bad as I am...
11-16-2006, 10:55 AM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
You might be able to save some weigth by using the smartfly SuperReg.
It acts as a battshare, two regulators and a normally open pin switch.
So it will allow you to use two LiPos at around 1200Mah each, have the redundancy and get rid of switches and regulators all over.
I also find that my DA-50s draw very little on the ignition battery, so an 1100Mah Nicad is more than enough for 5 flights...
ORIGINAL: 757Driver
Sorry I've been so quite but when I got home I couldn't keep my hands off the airplane. I considered all the other 30% airframes as last years ship was the AM Yak-54. It was a great airplane but was too heavy for more advanced IMAC sequences. I flew it in the Basic class and it was a great learning platform. The reason I decided to switch was the power to weight issue. I almost got the Wild Hare "the bunny" 260 because the numbers were good and its a good kit. Many great features such as the polished gear. I got a chance to fly the WH 260 and it wasn't bad but it didn't seem as stable as my AM Yak. It has less wing span and I think thats some of it. After flying the bunny I ordered my AW. I'm glad I chose the AW now that I have flown it as well. The others were simply too heavy. I choose the Air Wild Extra because of its advertised weight. AW is very specific, as the other MFG's should be, about how they arrived at that weight. I must say that at the end of the day the proof is in the puddin'. The numbers game is great but if a system flies well and meets all your desires then it doesn't matter what the numbers are. That said, Air Wild really did their homework on this one and 14 lbs 12oz is a spot on figure if you use all the components AW suggests. I figured that I would spend a bunch more money on the other airframes to get them as light as the AW so that made the extra cost of the AW a push. The $618 dollars delivered price was worth every penny.
The pictures and the AW video don't do this airplane justice. I was planning on stripping the covering off of it because I think four colors is just too busy. When I opened the box and pulled the first part out of its plastic bag I was very impressed. I fell in love with the quality and the color scheme. The ironing process went very well. None of the covering tried to melt and none of the seams tried to bleed out when I sealed the edges. The build took me about 18 hours and I'm a slow builder. There are some things I would like to mention for those of you that are going to be getting one of these.
Components:
PSP Titanium axles
Kvan 3" tires
3 Hitec 5955TG's (Ailerons and rudder) way overkill but I had 'em and like the reduced wear of the TG v.s. MG
1 Hitec 225MG (Throttle)
2 Hitec 5945MG's (Elevators)
CF tailwheel
Smart Fly BattShare
3 Smart Fly DSC heavy duty switches. (One switch for each battery.)
1 600mah 4.8v pack (emergency flight battery in case of a failure in the primary battery system...such as a bad switch, dead cell, ect.)
1 2500mah 6.0v pack (primary flight battery)
1 2500mah 4.8v pack (ignition)
DA-50-R
Old spinner from my AM Yak (Heavy at 8oz) Will replace and update my weights later.
Dubro 16oz fuel tank. (Went with the smaller tank as I only fly 11 minutes max. No point in hauling the extra 4oz that won't get used.)
1 Hanger 9 fuel dot with "T" fitting.
Dubro 4-40 Pull Pull kit.
Nelson heavy duty and Extra heavy duty rod ends. ( The Extra HD ends are wider and work well on the control surface side.)
2 Hanger 9 Ti turnbuckles 1.5" as recommended by AW. These fit perfectly!
#4 flat washers to put on the outside of the rod ends....cheap insurance.
4-40 "S" nuts for all control horns.
Antenna tube and a sleeve for the elevator wires.
Foam pilot figure from 3W.
SWB Servo horns.
23x8 NX prop
Central Hobbies servo mounting screws. (I love these! Thanks Dale>>>FREEBEE!)
Velcro, foam, zip ties, and some other crap I probably forgot.
AW has a very good parts list. The ONLY mistake I found was when using hitec servos you need 12" extensions and not the 6" that they call for. I plan to give them a heads up on this issue.
The manual includes a template for DA mounting and its perfect. I simply ligned up the template and drilled pilot holes then removed the template and drilled the final size. The engine bolted on with NO problems. Really nice template! The one thing that they don't address is the need for a hole in the fire wall for the carb and for the throttle linkage. DA requries it and the subject is covered in DA's manual. I fuel proofed the firewall which was also not covered in the manual. Just my preference.
The cowling has to be mounted further aft than the 33.5mm they call for in the manual...and yes I'm using stock DA mounts just as the AW manual calls for. The 33.5mm is a bad dimension. The cowl is easy to mount and easy to trim.
On the wing the servo extension needs to exit out the hole just aft of the wing bolt hole. When you put the servo in the lead tries to go into the second bay aft of the hole but no big deal.
I also hardened my incidence dowls with CA....the manual doesn't mention doing this but it's my preference.
The wings attach with one 4mm bolt which is very nice and easy to access...unlike the bunny. I did have to enlarge the bolt hole in the rib to gain unobstructed acces to the threads in the blind nut. I like being able to turn screws by hand until they seat, then use a wrench.
The airplane comes with the sullivan tailwheel and IMO they are junk. I had one on my AM Yak for a while and it didn't last very long.
IF this is your first gasser>>>>LOCKTITE EVERYTHING with Blue!
I'm running a clipped stock DA muffler and I cut the stack as well. Looks good and runs well. Light too!
I made up some temporary control rods for the elevators using 4-40 all thread which is very heavy. This will be replaced as soon I get the Central Hobbies CF/Ti setup.
14lbs 12oz is easily possiable using AW specs but mine is heavier as I added/changed some things on the component list.
Weights that matter as built to my specs thus far:
All up with NO FUEL = 15lbs 12oz
All up with 16oz Fuel and ready to fly = 16lbs 7oz
After a 1 minute warm up and run up and a 10 minute flight flying IMAC manuvers I had 7oz of fuel remaining. Weight after landing was 16lbs 1oz.
FYI weights:
Main Landing gear (Very strong unit, unlike the other kits.) = 8.2oz
Wing Spar tube = 6.2oz
Tail Spar tube = .9 oz
PSP Ti axles = .8oz
Kavan Tires 3" = 1.8oz
Wheel Pants = 4.3oz
Flight report to come but its late...
This birds the best flying 30%er I've ever flown! It didn't even slow down doing vertical snaps! I'm in love and that was only the first test flight.
Sorry I've been so quite but when I got home I couldn't keep my hands off the airplane. I considered all the other 30% airframes as last years ship was the AM Yak-54. It was a great airplane but was too heavy for more advanced IMAC sequences. I flew it in the Basic class and it was a great learning platform. The reason I decided to switch was the power to weight issue. I almost got the Wild Hare "the bunny" 260 because the numbers were good and its a good kit. Many great features such as the polished gear. I got a chance to fly the WH 260 and it wasn't bad but it didn't seem as stable as my AM Yak. It has less wing span and I think thats some of it. After flying the bunny I ordered my AW. I'm glad I chose the AW now that I have flown it as well. The others were simply too heavy. I choose the Air Wild Extra because of its advertised weight. AW is very specific, as the other MFG's should be, about how they arrived at that weight. I must say that at the end of the day the proof is in the puddin'. The numbers game is great but if a system flies well and meets all your desires then it doesn't matter what the numbers are. That said, Air Wild really did their homework on this one and 14 lbs 12oz is a spot on figure if you use all the components AW suggests. I figured that I would spend a bunch more money on the other airframes to get them as light as the AW so that made the extra cost of the AW a push. The $618 dollars delivered price was worth every penny.
The pictures and the AW video don't do this airplane justice. I was planning on stripping the covering off of it because I think four colors is just too busy. When I opened the box and pulled the first part out of its plastic bag I was very impressed. I fell in love with the quality and the color scheme. The ironing process went very well. None of the covering tried to melt and none of the seams tried to bleed out when I sealed the edges. The build took me about 18 hours and I'm a slow builder. There are some things I would like to mention for those of you that are going to be getting one of these.
Components:
PSP Titanium axles
Kvan 3" tires
3 Hitec 5955TG's (Ailerons and rudder) way overkill but I had 'em and like the reduced wear of the TG v.s. MG
1 Hitec 225MG (Throttle)
2 Hitec 5945MG's (Elevators)
CF tailwheel
Smart Fly BattShare
3 Smart Fly DSC heavy duty switches. (One switch for each battery.)
1 600mah 4.8v pack (emergency flight battery in case of a failure in the primary battery system...such as a bad switch, dead cell, ect.)
1 2500mah 6.0v pack (primary flight battery)
1 2500mah 4.8v pack (ignition)
DA-50-R
Old spinner from my AM Yak (Heavy at 8oz) Will replace and update my weights later.
Dubro 16oz fuel tank. (Went with the smaller tank as I only fly 11 minutes max. No point in hauling the extra 4oz that won't get used.)
1 Hanger 9 fuel dot with "T" fitting.
Dubro 4-40 Pull Pull kit.
Nelson heavy duty and Extra heavy duty rod ends. ( The Extra HD ends are wider and work well on the control surface side.)
2 Hanger 9 Ti turnbuckles 1.5" as recommended by AW. These fit perfectly!
#4 flat washers to put on the outside of the rod ends....cheap insurance.
4-40 "S" nuts for all control horns.
Antenna tube and a sleeve for the elevator wires.
Foam pilot figure from 3W.
SWB Servo horns.
23x8 NX prop
Central Hobbies servo mounting screws. (I love these! Thanks Dale>>>FREEBEE!)
Velcro, foam, zip ties, and some other crap I probably forgot.
AW has a very good parts list. The ONLY mistake I found was when using hitec servos you need 12" extensions and not the 6" that they call for. I plan to give them a heads up on this issue.
The manual includes a template for DA mounting and its perfect. I simply ligned up the template and drilled pilot holes then removed the template and drilled the final size. The engine bolted on with NO problems. Really nice template! The one thing that they don't address is the need for a hole in the fire wall for the carb and for the throttle linkage. DA requries it and the subject is covered in DA's manual. I fuel proofed the firewall which was also not covered in the manual. Just my preference.
The cowling has to be mounted further aft than the 33.5mm they call for in the manual...and yes I'm using stock DA mounts just as the AW manual calls for. The 33.5mm is a bad dimension. The cowl is easy to mount and easy to trim.
On the wing the servo extension needs to exit out the hole just aft of the wing bolt hole. When you put the servo in the lead tries to go into the second bay aft of the hole but no big deal.
I also hardened my incidence dowls with CA....the manual doesn't mention doing this but it's my preference.
The wings attach with one 4mm bolt which is very nice and easy to access...unlike the bunny. I did have to enlarge the bolt hole in the rib to gain unobstructed acces to the threads in the blind nut. I like being able to turn screws by hand until they seat, then use a wrench.
The airplane comes with the sullivan tailwheel and IMO they are junk. I had one on my AM Yak for a while and it didn't last very long.
IF this is your first gasser>>>>LOCKTITE EVERYTHING with Blue!
I'm running a clipped stock DA muffler and I cut the stack as well. Looks good and runs well. Light too!
I made up some temporary control rods for the elevators using 4-40 all thread which is very heavy. This will be replaced as soon I get the Central Hobbies CF/Ti setup.
14lbs 12oz is easily possiable using AW specs but mine is heavier as I added/changed some things on the component list.
Weights that matter as built to my specs thus far:
All up with NO FUEL = 15lbs 12oz
All up with 16oz Fuel and ready to fly = 16lbs 7oz
After a 1 minute warm up and run up and a 10 minute flight flying IMAC manuvers I had 7oz of fuel remaining. Weight after landing was 16lbs 1oz.
FYI weights:
Main Landing gear (Very strong unit, unlike the other kits.) = 8.2oz
Wing Spar tube = 6.2oz
Tail Spar tube = .9 oz
PSP Ti axles = .8oz
Kavan Tires 3" = 1.8oz
Wheel Pants = 4.3oz
Flight report to come but its late...
This birds the best flying 30%er I've ever flown! It didn't even slow down doing vertical snaps! I'm in love and that was only the first test flight.
11-16-2006, 10:58 AM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
yarom...I'm not by my plane right now but they are the longer standard DA stand offs. I think they are 3". Again the manual calls out for an extra 1/4" stand off. I did that with 1/4" ply. This allows the engine to fit and give about 3/8 to 1/2" clearance from the firewall. I'm pretty sure the engine would run ok there but I wasn't confident enough so I drilled a 1" hole in the firewall. Another thing I was concerned about was the pressure differentual. I know sometimes this can cause the engine to run poorly in certain attitudes. I felt by drilling the hole in the firewall this would be helped because there wouldn't be pressure build up in the cowl area. What airflow there is can go into the fuse as well and disipate there.
I'll confirm the standoff lengths tonight but I'm pretty sure they are 3".
Thanks
Barry
11-16-2006, 12:45 PM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
Barry & Yarom,
Use the standard stand-offs come with DA50R. I believe they are 2.5" in length. They are to be used in addition to the 0.25" spacer called out in our addendum.
Regards,
Jerry Bien
AirWild
Use the standard stand-offs come with DA50R. I believe they are 2.5" in length. They are to be used in addition to the 0.25" spacer called out in our addendum.
Regards,
Jerry Bien
AirWild
11-16-2006, 12:57 PM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
ORIGINAL: Barry Cazier
...aluminum angle iron ...
...aluminum angle iron ...
757,
I'm curious how you use redundant battery packs which have different voltage and capacity. How does this work?
Thanks
11-16-2006, 01:58 PM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
FentonFlyer...Correction: I use aluminum angle "metal" to strengthen the engine mount.
Correction # 2: The stand offs I used are DA standard which are 2 1/2". I just went home at lunch time and measured them. This confirms what Jerry Bien said also.
No correction: This is a beautiful flying plane. I've barely got 7 flights on mine but I'm getting it trimmed and it just instills confidence like no plane I've flown. And it will fly pretty fast, at least compared to the thick winged planes I'm used to flying. And it's pretty in the air and the visual between top and bottom is easy to see.
Thanks
Barry
11-16-2006, 02:06 PM
#16
RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
757 driver and all,
May I ask if you can compare the AW with WH edge 540? I am practicing IMAC sportsman with the WH 540 and feel it does not roll as axial as I hoped. The snap roll is also less perfect and the weight is on the heavy side: 18 lb with CF wing tube and DA50.
If the AW is much better than the edge, I can transfer all the equipment to AW and done with the Edge.
Thanks --qc
PS. Nice pictures and very informational description.
May I ask if you can compare the AW with WH edge 540? I am practicing IMAC sportsman with the WH 540 and feel it does not roll as axial as I hoped. The snap roll is also less perfect and the weight is on the heavy side: 18 lb with CF wing tube and DA50.
If the AW is much better than the edge, I can transfer all the equipment to AW and done with the Edge.
Thanks --qc
PS. Nice pictures and very informational description.
11-16-2006, 02:18 PM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
nonstoprc...Haven't flown the Wild Hare personally so I can't compare but I can say the AirWild is very good at snaps. Rolls are very axial. Stays right on line without any tail wobble. It tracks very "pure". It cuts the wind well also. I'm very satisfied with mine although I think I'm gonna try to get just a bit more elevator throw to assist in waterfalls. That's the only maneuver that isn't "quite right" yet. I'm getting closer already but I can use a bit more deflection I think.
Thanks
Barry
11-16-2006, 02:27 PM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
ORIGINAL: 757Driver
4AW has a very good parts list. The ONLY mistake I found was when using hitec servos you need 12" extensions and not the 6" that they call for. I plan to give them a heads up on this issue.
4AW has a very good parts list. The ONLY mistake I found was when using hitec servos you need 12" extensions and not the 6" that they call for. I plan to give them a heads up on this issue.
Anyways, very well thought out plane and flys nice.
Thanks
Barry
11-16-2006, 07:39 PM
#19
RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
WOW! So many things to discuss.
Vanguard....The composite horns are increadbly strong and are super light. Take your time getting them in exactly the right spot as the instructions describe. I have four flights now and they are still rock solid. There is honestly no way to tear one out without totally destroying the control surface. I had all Nelson crap on my Yak and that stuff sucked in comparison. These won't ever come loose! The installation of these horns requires you to deepen the slots already created by AW. Kinda hard on the fingers but start with a new Xacto blade and be careful not to go thru the covering on the other side. Really its not a big deal and goes fast once you do the first one. When you do cut the slots deeper be sure you keep the slot as far forward as you can...not to exceed the AW starter slots.
Maudub is correct! The paint doesn't match exactly which is another reason I wish they sold this thing in all white.
The addendum to the manual that I got didn't mention lengthening the engine mounts 1/4". It only discussed the quantity changes as mentioned earlier. My preference is not to use multiple extensions for two reasons. First is a negligable gain in resistance and second is the increased chance for something to come unpluged. That said I'm sure two 6"ers would be just fine and would protect the Rx.
Yarom...The hole in the firewall can be eliminated. I flew the first two test flights without a hole in the firewall and no 1/4" spacers behind the 2.5" DA mounts. The carb was very close to the firewall. I cut a 7/8" hole in the firewall and flew it two more times today. I couldn't notice any appreciable difference. The airplane is so light that it goes up like its in afterburner...even without the hole. If ya don't want to be holy it will be just fine....However this is contrary to what DA says in their manual as I previously mentioned. I'm gonna look into the Li-po setup you mentioned. Sounds like a great way to go using his switches and reg.
DA Standoffs....Stock is what you want to use and they are 2.5" as Barry C mentioned earlier.
FentonFlyer....The Batt Share....Both batteries plug into it. The unit looks at which pack has higher voltage and then supplies that power source to the Rx. There are two power leads on the batt share that plug into the Batt slot and any unused chanel. Very light weight and the switch from one power source to the other is seamless. If this doesn't make sense check out the smart fly website or keep asking questions here.
NonStop....The WH 540....You are experiencing the same issues that I was fighting with my Yak. They are just too heavy. They are not bad airplanes but they are too heavy for IMAC...especially sportsman in '07. More on flight charistics below... My advise from one Sportsman IMAC guy to another...get the lighter airframe and sell the 540. You won't ever look back.
The maiden voyage...
The first test flight was a great success! I took off and the airplane only took two clicks of right aileron trim. Elev was perfect. CG was perfect. Barry C's flight report is very good. I had virtually no coupling in KE. It has little or no wing rock in high alpha manuvers. The stall charistics are very good. I had 15 deg. of elevator throw (AW reccomends 12) and with the power off it didn't stall until the stick was full aft. Very nice. It feels very good to fly and does give you ALOT of confidence because you don't have to fight the airplane thru manuvers. It needed more right thrust and a little up thrust. After 10 minutes I landed and looked everything over. All was well so I gassed up and made the second flight. This time after takeoff I pulled to vertical and did a positive snap roll back to vertical and continued to climb out. The thing never even slowed down after the snap. It climbs effortlessly! My old Yak would dang near come to a stop after a vert snap. KE spins are great. Rolls are super fast on high rates and the rudder is very effective. IMAC type aileron rolls are very smooth and controllable. After these two flights I had decided that I want another one for my attic and that this was the best flying 30% size airplane I had ever flown. I fly 40% alot and I made the comment to my friend that "this little airplane thinks is a big one."
Todays flights 3 and 4 were to trim thrust angles. I will detail those changes when I am done. I am going to install a fiberglass spinner from Ellipse tonight and the Central Hobbies CF elevator control rods. This will lighten it up about 8oz....I'll post the exact savings.
Thanks for reading guys.....Everyone needs this airplane. Please call AW and tell them you want one in all white too.
Vanguard....The composite horns are increadbly strong and are super light. Take your time getting them in exactly the right spot as the instructions describe. I have four flights now and they are still rock solid. There is honestly no way to tear one out without totally destroying the control surface. I had all Nelson crap on my Yak and that stuff sucked in comparison. These won't ever come loose! The installation of these horns requires you to deepen the slots already created by AW. Kinda hard on the fingers but start with a new Xacto blade and be careful not to go thru the covering on the other side. Really its not a big deal and goes fast once you do the first one. When you do cut the slots deeper be sure you keep the slot as far forward as you can...not to exceed the AW starter slots.
Maudub is correct! The paint doesn't match exactly which is another reason I wish they sold this thing in all white.
The addendum to the manual that I got didn't mention lengthening the engine mounts 1/4". It only discussed the quantity changes as mentioned earlier. My preference is not to use multiple extensions for two reasons. First is a negligable gain in resistance and second is the increased chance for something to come unpluged. That said I'm sure two 6"ers would be just fine and would protect the Rx.
Yarom...The hole in the firewall can be eliminated. I flew the first two test flights without a hole in the firewall and no 1/4" spacers behind the 2.5" DA mounts. The carb was very close to the firewall. I cut a 7/8" hole in the firewall and flew it two more times today. I couldn't notice any appreciable difference. The airplane is so light that it goes up like its in afterburner...even without the hole. If ya don't want to be holy it will be just fine....However this is contrary to what DA says in their manual as I previously mentioned. I'm gonna look into the Li-po setup you mentioned. Sounds like a great way to go using his switches and reg.
DA Standoffs....Stock is what you want to use and they are 2.5" as Barry C mentioned earlier.
FentonFlyer....The Batt Share....Both batteries plug into it. The unit looks at which pack has higher voltage and then supplies that power source to the Rx. There are two power leads on the batt share that plug into the Batt slot and any unused chanel. Very light weight and the switch from one power source to the other is seamless. If this doesn't make sense check out the smart fly website or keep asking questions here.
NonStop....The WH 540....You are experiencing the same issues that I was fighting with my Yak. They are just too heavy. They are not bad airplanes but they are too heavy for IMAC...especially sportsman in '07. More on flight charistics below... My advise from one Sportsman IMAC guy to another...get the lighter airframe and sell the 540. You won't ever look back.
The maiden voyage...
The first test flight was a great success! I took off and the airplane only took two clicks of right aileron trim. Elev was perfect. CG was perfect. Barry C's flight report is very good. I had virtually no coupling in KE. It has little or no wing rock in high alpha manuvers. The stall charistics are very good. I had 15 deg. of elevator throw (AW reccomends 12) and with the power off it didn't stall until the stick was full aft. Very nice. It feels very good to fly and does give you ALOT of confidence because you don't have to fight the airplane thru manuvers. It needed more right thrust and a little up thrust. After 10 minutes I landed and looked everything over. All was well so I gassed up and made the second flight. This time after takeoff I pulled to vertical and did a positive snap roll back to vertical and continued to climb out. The thing never even slowed down after the snap. It climbs effortlessly! My old Yak would dang near come to a stop after a vert snap. KE spins are great. Rolls are super fast on high rates and the rudder is very effective. IMAC type aileron rolls are very smooth and controllable. After these two flights I had decided that I want another one for my attic and that this was the best flying 30% size airplane I had ever flown. I fly 40% alot and I made the comment to my friend that "this little airplane thinks is a big one."
Todays flights 3 and 4 were to trim thrust angles. I will detail those changes when I am done. I am going to install a fiberglass spinner from Ellipse tonight and the Central Hobbies CF elevator control rods. This will lighten it up about 8oz....I'll post the exact savings.
Thanks for reading guys.....Everyone needs this airplane. Please call AW and tell them you want one in all white too.
11-17-2006, 06:20 AM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
757
Did you use the C A Hinges? I've never had much luck with them. I think the Du Bro flat hinges with the pin would be better. what do you think.
Did you use the C A Hinges? I've never had much luck with them. I think the Du Bro flat hinges with the pin would be better. what do you think.
11-17-2006, 01:24 PM
#22
RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
Yes I used the CA hinges and they work Very well. I tried pulling them out of the aileron and they were solid. If you use anything else it will void any MFG warrenty. The structure isn't designed for anything but the CA hinges. I had the flat pin hinges in my Yak and they either wear out or shake the pin loose. CA is the way to go.
11-17-2006, 01:35 PM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
757 Driver,
Thanks for all the info. Makes me want to get one of these pretty soon and put the WH Edge up for sale. Appreciate all the thoughts and tips you are posting here. Will be a big help in setting mine up.
Thanks for all the info. Makes me want to get one of these pretty soon and put the WH Edge up for sale. Appreciate all the thoughts and tips you are posting here. Will be a big help in setting mine up.
11-17-2006, 03:20 PM
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RE: 29% Air Wild Extra 260 Build
I used the CA hinges in my as well. I purchased the hardware kit and it came with Radio South CA hinges. These are different than what I was used to. They are a plastic strip covered on both sides with the CA fabric. They are very strong. I don't think there will be a problem with these hinges.Thanks
Barry