PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
12-23-2006, 05:25 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
O.K., some more, but slow progress...
After going over the plane with an iron and het gun to seal the trim, egdes and shrink taught everything that needed it I put the gear and tailwheel on...
The gearblock is covered over so I cut the covering as showm... I don;t cut all the way to the "corners as the iron will stretch it and allow it to seemlessly fill the corners without leaving any "bare wood" visable from "admirers" at the field.
It's ironed in and I go ahead and trim the excess saving a good .001 grams... tee hee (and making it look more neat and tidy).
The gear is then bolted on with the supplied screws... theres washers and lockwashers inscluded, but I always use some blue threadlocker to keep them in place.
After going over the plane with an iron and het gun to seal the trim, egdes and shrink taught everything that needed it I put the gear and tailwheel on...
The gearblock is covered over so I cut the covering as showm... I don;t cut all the way to the "corners as the iron will stretch it and allow it to seemlessly fill the corners without leaving any "bare wood" visable from "admirers" at the field.
It's ironed in and I go ahead and trim the excess saving a good .001 grams... tee hee (and making it look more neat and tidy).
The gear is then bolted on with the supplied screws... theres washers and lockwashers inscluded, but I always use some blue threadlocker to keep them in place.
12-23-2006, 05:27 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Next I drew a centerline on the bottom of the fuse where the tailwheel block is located. Drilled pilot holes and inserted the screws. I removed the screws and hardened the holes with CA and let cure several minutes before attaching the tailwheel assembly. (the red line is a sharpie, but easily wipes away with rubbing alcohol)
12-23-2006, 05:36 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
I've been asked and seen inquiries about removable rudders... soooo....
I used some Robart Hingepoints I had extra and dremeled off the peened side of the pin and the pin is pushed out with a pen tip and pulled free with pliers.
On all my surfaces that are predrilled for hingepoints, I use a soldering iron to melt the covering into the hole and seal the edges. I let it heat the "square notch" made by the buckle pretty good too enlarging it a teeny bit.
The hinges are then assembled onto one long piano wire (mine was 11 7/8" total with about 1/4 of that bent over for a "handle")
I couldn't get the pin to be easily removed/inserted back from the top due to the counter balance and overall thickness of the surfaces, so I chose to come in from the bottom. A notch is made in the tailwheel plate to allow the "handle" to seat under the tailwheel.
The back tailwheel screw must be backed out enough to allow the wire handle to rotate out for removal.... OR you can skip the notch and simply tape the bent "handle" to the bevel on the fin. Whatever flips your switch.
A person could also use 4 properly sized cotter pins in the individual hingepoints, keeping some spares in the fieldbox in case of need to replace one.
I used some Robart Hingepoints I had extra and dremeled off the peened side of the pin and the pin is pushed out with a pen tip and pulled free with pliers.
On all my surfaces that are predrilled for hingepoints, I use a soldering iron to melt the covering into the hole and seal the edges. I let it heat the "square notch" made by the buckle pretty good too enlarging it a teeny bit.
The hinges are then assembled onto one long piano wire (mine was 11 7/8" total with about 1/4 of that bent over for a "handle")
I couldn't get the pin to be easily removed/inserted back from the top due to the counter balance and overall thickness of the surfaces, so I chose to come in from the bottom. A notch is made in the tailwheel plate to allow the "handle" to seat under the tailwheel.
The back tailwheel screw must be backed out enough to allow the wire handle to rotate out for removal.... OR you can skip the notch and simply tape the bent "handle" to the bevel on the fin. Whatever flips your switch.
A person could also use 4 properly sized cotter pins in the individual hingepoints, keeping some spares in the fieldbox in case of need to replace one.
12-23-2006, 05:42 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
I'll not go into details on the hinging process... as I already did a tutorial with video using Gorilla GLue... which I'll duplicate on this plane.
See it here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=269
I will say that the hinging was done very nicely and I remain VERY impressed overall with the construction of this Extra.
I probably won't make much more progress than that until after Christmas... so with that said...
Merry Christmas guys, and I'll see ya here soon.
See it here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=269
I will say that the hinging was done very nicely and I remain VERY impressed overall with the construction of this Extra.
I probably won't make much more progress than that until after Christmas... so with that said...
Merry Christmas guys, and I'll see ya here soon.
12-23-2006, 06:12 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
With all these nice options... it sure is a good time to be in the hobby huh?
ORIGINAL: Josey Wales
Wow!! That really looks awesome!! Depending on what EF comes out with, I will be looking really hard at this.
Wow!! That really looks awesome!! Depending on what EF comes out with, I will be looking really hard at this.
12-23-2006, 06:27 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
I almost forgot to mention... looks like I'll be getting a 25mm drop header and MTW canister for install in another project (don't ask, won't tell) so I intend on sharing installation of this exhaust setup in this plane as well so people who are wondering will have some idea of how it can be done. THough I'll stick to a stock muffler for my own flying.
I also did a quick check and even with the rudder hinge wire left out in the bevel, it's pretty difficult to remove because of the tailwheel bracket...
The reason is that the top and bottom hinges rightfully are located close to the top/bottom of the fin for best strength... and if you use a wire that's nice and snug in the hinges, it doesn't have enough room to bend and ease out of the hinges.
A person COULD use two wires one aiming up the top two hinges and another aiming down the bottom two... but since removable rudders are enoiugh pain as it is, an extra screw to loosen isn't a hassle.
And if that's the case... I see no reason to even notch the plate... the hinge wire cannot go anywhere as long as when the wire "handle" rests on the tailwheel bracket and that the wire extends up though the top hinge (which a wire cut at 11 7/8" with maybe a 1/4" bend "handle" is great).
I also did a quick check and even with the rudder hinge wire left out in the bevel, it's pretty difficult to remove because of the tailwheel bracket...
The reason is that the top and bottom hinges rightfully are located close to the top/bottom of the fin for best strength... and if you use a wire that's nice and snug in the hinges, it doesn't have enough room to bend and ease out of the hinges.
A person COULD use two wires one aiming up the top two hinges and another aiming down the bottom two... but since removable rudders are enoiugh pain as it is, an extra screw to loosen isn't a hassle.
And if that's the case... I see no reason to even notch the plate... the hinge wire cannot go anywhere as long as when the wire "handle" rests on the tailwheel bracket and that the wire extends up though the top hinge (which a wire cut at 11 7/8" with maybe a 1/4" bend "handle" is great).
12-23-2006, 06:39 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Maudib
With all these nice options... it sure is a good time to be in the hobby huh?
With all these nice options... it sure is a good time to be in the hobby huh?
Another project huh ?[8D]
12-23-2006, 08:45 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
I opted to dremel a slot in the plate for the wire as I won't be removing the rudder most likely unless shipping or boxing for long term storage... the tailwheel bracket will hold it in place.
Meanwhile I went ahead and cut the covering and ironed the servo openings in the fuse and wings as well as the pull-pull wire slots.
Meanwhile I went ahead and cut the covering and ironed the servo openings in the fuse and wings as well as the pull-pull wire slots.
12-23-2006, 09:51 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
All good as long as I can get the part numbers and install on mine as well....
Happy holidays Dave...
ORIGINAL: Maudib
I almost forgot to mention... looks like I'll be getting a 25mm drop header and MTW canister for install in another project (don't ask, won't tell) so I intend on sharing installation of this exhaust setup in this plane as well so people who are wondering will have some idea of how it can be done. THough I'll stick to a stock muffler for my own flying.
I also did a quick check and even with the rudder hinge wire left out in the bevel, it's pretty difficult to remove because of the tailwheel bracket...
The reason is that the top and bottom hinges rightfully are located close to the top/bottom of the fin for best strength... and if you use a wire that's nice and snug in the hinges, it doesn't have enough room to bend and ease out of the hinges.
A person COULD use two wires one aiming up the top two hinges and another aiming down the bottom two... but since removable rudders are enoiugh pain as it is, an extra screw to loosen isn't a hassle.
And if that's the case... I see no reason to even notch the plate... the hinge wire cannot go anywhere as long as when the wire "handle" rests on the tailwheel bracket and that the wire extends up though the top hinge (which a wire cut at 11 7/8" with maybe a 1/4" bend "handle" is great).
I almost forgot to mention... looks like I'll be getting a 25mm drop header and MTW canister for install in another project (don't ask, won't tell) so I intend on sharing installation of this exhaust setup in this plane as well so people who are wondering will have some idea of how it can be done. THough I'll stick to a stock muffler for my own flying.
I also did a quick check and even with the rudder hinge wire left out in the bevel, it's pretty difficult to remove because of the tailwheel bracket...
The reason is that the top and bottom hinges rightfully are located close to the top/bottom of the fin for best strength... and if you use a wire that's nice and snug in the hinges, it doesn't have enough room to bend and ease out of the hinges.
A person COULD use two wires one aiming up the top two hinges and another aiming down the bottom two... but since removable rudders are enoiugh pain as it is, an extra screw to loosen isn't a hassle.
And if that's the case... I see no reason to even notch the plate... the hinge wire cannot go anywhere as long as when the wire "handle" rests on the tailwheel bracket and that the wire extends up though the top hinge (which a wire cut at 11 7/8" with maybe a 1/4" bend "handle" is great).
12-23-2006, 10:44 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Yarom,
It'll be a couple weeks before I receive... (hate ordering things right at the holidays)...
The part numbers you need are:
MTW TD 75 k canister (which is the 235mm long, front exhaust canister) (the TD75 is too long at 355mm)
VA-DBW2 with 25mm drop (approximately 1") (could specify 0mm drop, 25mm drop or 50mm drop)
This is a question mark header (wraparound) with flex section and 1" drop. You can also specify a smoke fitted version. (VA-DBW2 with 25mm drop and smoke fitting)
This header wraps around the head to align behind the cylinder, and is angled 25mm (1") downward to align the canister 1" below the exhaust port and features the flex section for some adjustment in installation.
I just realized though that my other project may require the 355mm canister.... I'll have to check... if so I won;t be able to show the can istself, but the header alignment and perhpas a JMB 60/60/270 in-fuse silencer from RC Showcase...
It'll be a couple weeks before I receive... (hate ordering things right at the holidays)...
The part numbers you need are:
MTW TD 75 k canister (which is the 235mm long, front exhaust canister) (the TD75 is too long at 355mm)
VA-DBW2 with 25mm drop (approximately 1") (could specify 0mm drop, 25mm drop or 50mm drop)
This is a question mark header (wraparound) with flex section and 1" drop. You can also specify a smoke fitted version. (VA-DBW2 with 25mm drop and smoke fitting)
This header wraps around the head to align behind the cylinder, and is angled 25mm (1") downward to align the canister 1" below the exhaust port and features the flex section for some adjustment in installation.
I just realized though that my other project may require the 355mm canister.... I'll have to check... if so I won;t be able to show the can istself, but the header alignment and perhpas a JMB 60/60/270 in-fuse silencer from RC Showcase...
12-24-2006, 03:21 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Hi guys...
I've been working on an idea for a tool that makes drilling beveled surfaces a breeze... and here's what I've come up with... I'm open to criticism, comments and suggestions.
Basically I took a 2" C Clamp and ground off part of the clamp over the "flat" to create a flat surface.
Then I removed the "foot" from the turnscrew and sharpened it to a point
I drilled a 5/32" hole though the "flat" and inserted a 5/32" brass tube all the way to the point and JB welded it in place. (Leaving it full length at first makes sure it's in alignment with the point of the turnscrew)
Then I trimmed the brass tube with a cutoff wheel as shown in the pics, leaving enough length to act as a definitive guide tube.
Then you simply mark BOTH sides of the surface evenly where the control horn should pass through (measuring carefully of course) and clamp the "drill guide" over the centermarks.
Pass a drill bit through the guide tube and drill a hole from one point to the other.
The idea is to be able to always drill a nice straight hole perpendicular to the surface.
What do you think?
I've been working on an idea for a tool that makes drilling beveled surfaces a breeze... and here's what I've come up with... I'm open to criticism, comments and suggestions.
Basically I took a 2" C Clamp and ground off part of the clamp over the "flat" to create a flat surface.
Then I removed the "foot" from the turnscrew and sharpened it to a point
I drilled a 5/32" hole though the "flat" and inserted a 5/32" brass tube all the way to the point and JB welded it in place. (Leaving it full length at first makes sure it's in alignment with the point of the turnscrew)
Then I trimmed the brass tube with a cutoff wheel as shown in the pics, leaving enough length to act as a definitive guide tube.
Then you simply mark BOTH sides of the surface evenly where the control horn should pass through (measuring carefully of course) and clamp the "drill guide" over the centermarks.
Pass a drill bit through the guide tube and drill a hole from one point to the other.
The idea is to be able to always drill a nice straight hole perpendicular to the surface.
What do you think?
12-25-2006, 12:21 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Does an Evolution 58 sound good for this bird? Also..... are these readily available to be shipped out now? I have mine in the cart ready to press the button
David
David
12-25-2006, 12:26 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Mondo power should prove insane for ya... and should work well... a little on the heavier side but this bird's got some wingarea and is built tough enough for the extra power...
Yes... they are in stock and shipping last I heard from Ken...
Yes... they are in stock and shipping last I heard from Ken...
12-25-2006, 02:13 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Not stock... but htere are a couple lightening holes back there that could easily be fitted with a tray...
See pic... with a servo on either side, the pushrod would need be only 6" or so...
See pic... with a servo on either side, the pushrod would need be only 6" or so...
12-25-2006, 04:57 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
You should patent this. Nothing I hate more than drilling horns through bevels. Even using a drill press, I always manage to screw this part up...
Why aren't these manufacturers of so called 'luxury prefab' kits never pre-drilling the horns through the hard points? Only onI saw do that was Hangar9.
ORIGINAL: Maudib
Hi guys...
I've been working on an idea for a tool that makes drilling beveled surfaces a breeze... and here's what I've come up with... I'm open to criticism, comments and suggestions.
Basically I took a 2" C Clamp and ground off part of the clamp over the "flat" to create a flat surface.
Then I removed the "foot" from the turnscrew and sharpened it to a point
I drilled a 5/32" hole though the "flat" and inserted a 5/32" brass tube all the way to the point and JB welded it in place. (Leaving it full length at first makes sure it's in alignment with the point of the turnscrew)
Then I trimmed the brass tube with a cutoff wheel as shown in the pics, leaving enough length to act as a definitive guide tube.
Then you simply mark BOTH sides of the surface evenly where the control horn should pass through (measuring carefully of course) and clamp the "drill guide" over the centermarks.
Pass a drill bit through the guide tube and drill a hole from one point to the other.
The idea is to be able to always drill a nice straight hole perpendicular to the surface.
What do you think?
Hi guys...
I've been working on an idea for a tool that makes drilling beveled surfaces a breeze... and here's what I've come up with... I'm open to criticism, comments and suggestions.
Basically I took a 2" C Clamp and ground off part of the clamp over the "flat" to create a flat surface.
Then I removed the "foot" from the turnscrew and sharpened it to a point
I drilled a 5/32" hole though the "flat" and inserted a 5/32" brass tube all the way to the point and JB welded it in place. (Leaving it full length at first makes sure it's in alignment with the point of the turnscrew)
Then I trimmed the brass tube with a cutoff wheel as shown in the pics, leaving enough length to act as a definitive guide tube.
Then you simply mark BOTH sides of the surface evenly where the control horn should pass through (measuring carefully of course) and clamp the "drill guide" over the centermarks.
Pass a drill bit through the guide tube and drill a hole from one point to the other.
The idea is to be able to always drill a nice straight hole perpendicular to the surface.
What do you think?
12-25-2006, 06:22 PM
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RE: PAU/BME 87" Extra 330L - Build and Fly
Cause they ain't got a handy dandy drill guide like mine... tee hee...
It really can be a pain, and that's why I wanted to try and come up with something that might make it easier and more accurate... don't know HOW many times I THOUGHT I had the "Occular Guesstimation Path" nailed... only to have the horn whopperjawed...
I've made custom jigs where the surface is slid onto 1/4" pegs though the hingepoint holes... as long as THEY are drilled perpendicular...
Well we'll see if it works decent tomorrow...
Oh... Patent Pending...
It really can be a pain, and that's why I wanted to try and come up with something that might make it easier and more accurate... don't know HOW many times I THOUGHT I had the "Occular Guesstimation Path" nailed... only to have the horn whopperjawed...
I've made custom jigs where the surface is slid onto 1/4" pegs though the hingepoint holes... as long as THEY are drilled perpendicular...
Well we'll see if it works decent tomorrow...
Oh... Patent Pending...
