Rob Kelly

A couple of quick questions for those who have flown their F/C 2.6 Extras.

What dimension did you end up with for aileron control horn length. I'm looking to use full ATV (their 70-80 MM throw recommendation high rate) using the supplied servo horns and would like the distance from the bottom of the aileron to the clevis hole on the inboard horn. Weak instructions in this area.

The cowl mounting instruction call for 9 holes but the diaghram shows 11 mounting holes. I would think 9 is plenty but any thoughts?

One last one. I would like to use the standard DA mufflers (on a DA 100) and a three blade prop and be IMAC noise legal. Any real world experiance out there?

Thanks,
Rob

Richo

Giday Rob,

I'm pretty sure that my control horns were 54mm for the inner and 52mm for the outer control horn (I'll measure them when I get home). These were measured from the hinge line on the top skin of the wing. I made a simple balsa jig to do these, it made the hole process a lot easier.

I used 7 screws on my cowl with no problems.

A freind of mine is using a 24 x 12 Mejlik 3 blader on his FC330L with a DA100 on std mufflers. It runs great and has no problems with any manouvers, he quite happly t/roll the chap. I have flown mine with the Mejlik 3 blade (DA100 std Mufflers) but prefer the 2 blade. I feel it is beter for alround performance. The 3 blader was probably better for IMAC.

Hope this helps


Richo

3Dfalcon

Rob,

I will measure mine and post tomorrow.

I played with mine a bit to try to get as much throw as possable.

I am getting 2.75" of throw measured at the widest part of the aeileron.

Dave

3Dfalcon

I also used 9 screws around the cowl.

I went and got button head 3mm hex to replace the stock ones.

Look much cleaner.

I use a Mejlik 28-10 on the DA 100. Seems to run fine and turns it better than my 3W ever could.

Good Luck

Dave

Richo

Rob,

I must have drank to much coffee. The measurments from the top skin to the centre hole in the control horn is 52mm for both. They only differ when measured from the bottom skin. I got maximum travel, although the hinge seal on the bottom puts up a fight. I dont normaly fly with maximum rates on aileron, but do with all other control surfaces.

Did your model come with the half ribs for the wings in the hardware pack??

Richo

CrashMeister

My Feedback: (4)

Geez, I don't think I have ever come across a plane with a bigger divirsity of what does or does not come with it. It's almost like opening a 'lucky packet', for those of you who know what that is.

Before I spend all those $$$, I want to know EXACTLY what does or does not come with it.

At this time, I would not accept one where the stap pin area was not reinforced. That indicates an old version, and who knows what else was fixed in the newer one.

Still watching and drooling. Richo's JS scheme looks awesome.

Craig.

Rob Kelly

Richo and 3D Falcon, thanks for the info. I should get back to the work bench later this week and will give the aileron horns a go!

Will also go with standard mufflers and three blade prop.

Thanks again and I won't hesitate to ask more questions!

Rob

Richo, not sure what half ribs your talking about but I'll investigate. I think I need more caffine!

Richo

Giday Rob,

We had one of our FC330 delaminate a wing, after only a few flights. We sent an email to Fiberclassics who belived it was futter that caused the problem (I dont belive this was the case). Anyway Andreas said that they are now including half ribs in the hardware pack.

Email I received:
Andreas Gietz wrote:
>
> > Hello Ian,
> >
> > I have seen this kind of failure before, it is a clear aileron flutter,
may
> > be only for a 10th of a second, which can cause the rear spar to split.
The
> > flutter force hitting the servos on the long control horns, will put a
> > rotation momentum on the servos, which causes the bottom wing skin to
warp,
> > and if really strong, it splits the rear spar. After that the whole wing
is
> > not torsion stiff anymore, and the problem continues. After we realized
that
> > (one single time in the US) we added 2 balsa half ribs into the hardware
> > bag, which boxes the servo cutouts and connect top skin and bottom skin.
> > That takes a rotation force from the servos, and a eventual aileron
flutter
> > (gear slop in JR 8411 problem) will not be able to cause this kind of
> > failure. A wood wing would have blown apart completely, at least blown
the
> > aileron.
> >
Adding those balsa half ribs aside of each
servo
> > hatch will prevent 90% that it happens again. Also I recommend to twist
the
> > 2 servos of the ailerons per wing a little bit, so that they are
"humming" a
> > bit, but this takes the slop out of the gear, and aileron flutter, which
was
> > the initial cause for the failure, should not appear anymore.
> >
> > Let me know.
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Andreas

I dont totaly agree that flutter caused the problem in the first place. However we have since repaired the wing, with no bad effects and added half ribs that we made ourselves. I have not carried out the modification o my own FC330 but plan to do it this weekend.


Richo

RickP

My Feedback: (2)

Craig,
I may be biased since I bought one already, but you can’t appreciated one of these kits until you open the box. I see people who spend countless hours (and frustration) building up a kit that – to be honest with you – doesn’t look as nice as this plane.
Right now I do not have that type of time to spend building. Besides, I’m really not that good at it and I’d rather be flying at the moment as opposed to building (that may change one day too…) Figure out how much time you spend building and look at the quality of the finish and there is no comparison. A few more dollars up front, but in the long run it’s cheaper and will come out nicer.
Personally, I don’t care if it didn’t come with anything other than the airframe, that’s all I’m really interested in anyway. Go ahead, pull the trigger – you’ll like it I’m sure
RickP

DKY

My Feedback: (1)

This faiure you guy's have had is interesting. I have a yet unflown Extra ready to fly if the weather warms up and clears.

Under what type of flying conditions did the wing fail ?

RickP

My Feedback: (2)

DKY,
Did you install half ribs in your aileron servo bay? I think the failure is due to flexing of the servo mount. My kit did not come with them, but they are no biggie to add.
RickP

DKY

My Feedback: (1)

No I have not installed these yet as I have just read about them myself. I had no idea this was an issue till last night. Needless to say my kit did not come with these parts. As an aside I used plastic servo mounts (JR) expoxied to the servo lid. This might help with the flexing problem as I did not feel comfortable with the balsa attachment method. I am also using 5945's which do not have the same slop as 8411's in the gear train either.

eagle4442

My Feedback: (6)

RickP,

Is there any way you can post a pic. of what these half ribs look like. They didn't come with my plane either but if they help to eliminate a possible problem I would like to install them.

Thanks, Tim

Richo

Giday Guy's

The wing that we had fail did so in normal flight, ie going into a normal loop. But we belive the trailing edge may of seperated at another time. The model does get put through it paces. We have fitted JR servo trays to our hatch covers also, so I dont think that this is going to be a factor in whether the wing will have the problem or not! We think that the problem is with the hatch covers twisting or bending, the half ribs will eliminate this.


Richo

RickP

My Feedback: (2)

Tim,
Mine also did not come with the half ribs. You guys seem to be building much faster then I am, but If you want to wait, I'll show you what I build when I get to it. I'll also try to take a qick pic and draw in the area where they go.
RickP