Bosshossv8

My Feedback: (10)

subscribed.

diamondave

My Feedback: (29)

bob, good to hear the b60 does well with a 17lb bird

MustangAce

My Feedback: (3)

Ditto.

zayzay1

..

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

.

zayzay1

.

Absolut Yak

My Feedback: (4)

As a suggestion, how about individuals editing or deleting their prior posts to keep this thread on-topic. Opinions and comments not specific to this particular build can go on the other 88" thread. Post away on that thread and let's keep this one tidy.

Doug

yarom

My Feedback: (82)

Unfortunately, thread has not been on topic since after Chris put his first post.

It was supposed to be HIS build thread of the 88' Yak...

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I've asked the a mod to maybe delete all the posts except the first one again... hopefully he will/can so this one can be concise for us all...

Let use the other thread for the various "I got's", "what if's" etc...

EXTREME FLIGHT

Finally had the time to get started last night. Assembly is very similar to the previous Yak so for those of you who built one of those this will just be a refresher course. I got all control horns glued in place and everything hinged in about 3 hours. Here are the details:
We'll start by mounting the double truss control horns in their surfaces.
Separate the aileron from the wing and place it bottom up on your bench. Locate the 2 slots in the aileron and open with your hobby knife.

EXTREME FLIGHT

Locate 2 G10 control horns and a G10 base. Dry fit the assembly into the slots and trace the base with a fine felt tipped marker. Remove the horns and base and use a sharp blade to remove the covering 1/16" inside the line you traced.

EXTREME FLIGHT

If you wish to paint the control horns for a more finished appearance now is the time to do it. Scuff the area on the horns that will receive the glue with fine sandpaper to remove any residue and allow better glue adhesion.

EXTREME FLIGHT

Mix up some 30 minute epoxy ( I like Pacer Z-Poxy) and use a scrap piece of flat carbon or old hack saw blade to coat the inside of the slots with epoxy. Coat the bottom of the base plate and the area on the control horns that will insert into the surface thoroughly. Don't worry about using too much epoxy as any excess will squish out when the horns are inserted and can be wiped away. Put one of the bolts from the ball link package through the holes in the 2 horns to assure they are aligned properly. Wipe away any excess epoxy and clean the area with denatured alcohol. Set aside to dry and repeat this process for the other aileron.

EXTREME FLIGHT

Now we'll repeat this same process for the 2 elevator halves.

EXTREME FLIGHT

And the same process for installing the rudder horns. The only difference here is you'll need to trim the base plate slightly so it doesn't overhang the rudder bevel. I used a pair of side cutters to get close and then finished with sand paper.

EXTREME FLIGHT

Next we'll get hinging out of the way. There are many methods to do this, and I'll share what has worked best for me over the years.
Mix up some 30 minute epoxy. Use a scrap piece of pushrod or flat carbon and coat the inside of the hinge hole thoroughly. Coat the hinge barbs with epoxy and insert into the hinge hole. Wipe away the excess epoxy. Repeat for all hinges on one side of 1 surface (i.e. all the hinges on one aileron). Again wipe away excess epoxy and clean each hinge knuckle with a paper towel dampened with denatured alcohol. Let dry. Hinges will feel stiff at this time-don't worry. Apply epoxy to the hinge holes in the mating surface and to the hinge barbs. Slide the hinges into their holes and make sure to leave as small of a gap as possible between the wing/stab/fin and control surface. Once again wipe away all excess epoxy and clean up with denatured alcohol. Allow to cure completely.
Once cured, use a fine tipped hypodermic needle or tip of a pin to place one, and only one drop of acetone on each hinge knuckle, top and bottom. Move the surface back and forth several times and you will feel it start to loosen up. Apply one drop of penetrating oil to each knuckle ( I use WD-40) and continue to move surface back and forth. It should now feel very smooth and easy to deflect. Wipe away any residue with denatured alcohol and apply Blenderm hinge tape to the bottom of the surface to completely seal the hinge line. Make sure the surface is completely deflected while applying the hinge tape so that it doesn't limit control surface movement. Repeat this procedure for both ailerons, elevators and rudder.

flyingcrazy

My Feedback: (28)

I thought I would let you know that on the 87in EF YAK I covered both sides of control horns with Ultracote carbon just the part that sticks out not the part that goes in then I colored the edge with a black marker looks like real carbon I also covered the cover on top only .

EXTREME FLIGHT

Nice Rodney.

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Chris, I noticed on your plane that the back of your spinner is spaced about 5/8 from the front edge of the cowl. I remember a long discussion on one of the QQ threads where QQ or Lee was telling everybody it was important to get the prop spaced further out, I think he was talking over an inch if I'm not mistaken. I could have even been 1 to 1.5 inchs. QQ said he found the performance was better with this spacing. Two questions. Do you have an opinion on this? and is it possible to use longer standoffs on the DA 50 without having to cut into the cowl so the cyllinder will clear the front edge. I didn't like the way they were cutting the QQ cowl to get additional spacing. In my opinion it weakened the cowl.

John

flat spin

Checking in. Dying to see some shots of this 88 in the Red scheme.

Whirlyspud

Is there any way I can change my settings, or use search function or something so that only the posts from Extreme Flight show up on this thread? To take it a step further, Is there any way to have a thread only show replies that have pictures?

Thanks,
Mike

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

No...

Whirlyspud

That's too bad. It would be a handy feature to have for when the threads get over a few pages long.
I like reading all of the replies, but at times when I have a specific thing I am looking for it would be nice to have a way to cut the signal to noise ratio down a bit. This post included.

Mike
p.s. I'm done with my hijack

diamondave

My Feedback: (29)

i kinda like the nonsence once in a while, some of you guys are witty

EXTREME FLIGHT

Lets get the Yak up on its gear. Slide the landing gear into the gear slot under the covered stringer. Center the gear in the slot and using the pre-drilled holes in the landing gear as guides, drill four holes at each location to accept an 8-32 bolt. Drill through the ply mounting plate and aluminum angle brackets. Secure the landing gear with the supplied 8-32 bolts, washers and nylon insert lock nuts. Insert the bolt from inside of the fusleage, through the aluminum gear bracket, ply plate and landing gear and into the lock nut.