Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
#101
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Maudib
Time to install the servos...
The elevator trays inside the stabs have a slot for the servo lead to come back up through... mine were a little tight si I opened them up JUST a little witha rattail file... I actually just chucked it in a drill and let the drill do the work...
The servo is then laid in place, screw holes piloted with a Great Planes Dead Center guage and screws installed.
They are then removed and the servo too... and the holes hardened with CA... once cured... the servo is replaced.
The kit comes with very nice balllinks... BUT the screws supplied with them are 3mm... if you want to use them on the SWB arms, you will need to drill out the 4/40 hole.
OR if you have some DuBro HD or Rocket City Ballinks handy you can use them on the servo arm side and use the supplied balllinks on the control horn side... that eliminates needing to drill out the SWB servo arms.
BEfore you attach either end... go ahead and screw on the balllinks on each end... leave only about 1/16" thread showing and this will get you REAL close to neutral... then only a few turns will be needed for final adjusting.
Time to install the servos...
The elevator trays inside the stabs have a slot for the servo lead to come back up through... mine were a little tight si I opened them up JUST a little witha rattail file... I actually just chucked it in a drill and let the drill do the work...
The servo is then laid in place, screw holes piloted with a Great Planes Dead Center guage and screws installed.
They are then removed and the servo too... and the holes hardened with CA... once cured... the servo is replaced.
The kit comes with very nice balllinks... BUT the screws supplied with them are 3mm... if you want to use them on the SWB arms, you will need to drill out the 4/40 hole.
OR if you have some DuBro HD or Rocket City Ballinks handy you can use them on the servo arm side and use the supplied balllinks on the control horn side... that eliminates needing to drill out the SWB servo arms.
BEfore you attach either end... go ahead and screw on the balllinks on each end... leave only about 1/16" thread showing and this will get you REAL close to neutral... then only a few turns will be needed for final adjusting.
#102
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Thanks... I'm trying to share all the little tidbits of info as I go so others can crank it out and not have to deal with the little questions of this or thta... there will be plenty of those as it is...
This is TRULY one of the easiest build I've come across to date... They are all getting easier to some degree... but really this is falling together nicely.
This is TRULY one of the easiest build I've come across to date... They are all getting easier to some degree... but really this is falling together nicely.
#105
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Maudib
Thanks... I'm trying to share all the little tidbits of info as I go so others can crank it out and not have to deal with the little questions of this or thta... there will be plenty of those as it is...
This is TRULY one of the easiest build I've come across to date... They are all getting easier to some degree... but really this is falling together nicely.
Thanks... I'm trying to share all the little tidbits of info as I go so others can crank it out and not have to deal with the little questions of this or thta... there will be plenty of those as it is...
This is TRULY one of the easiest build I've come across to date... They are all getting easier to some degree... but really this is falling together nicely.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
How useful are the servo arms that come with the Hitec 5995TG's ?
Does this kit have the carbon fiber stuff to make servo arms like the original Yak did ?
Hey David, at the rate you are going I think you'll be ready for your maiden this weekend ...
Good luck.
Does this kit have the carbon fiber stuff to make servo arms like the original Yak did ?
Hey David, at the rate you are going I think you'll be ready for your maiden this weekend ...
Good luck.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
It's just the glue used to seat the antirotation pins... in the WHOLE plane... this is the only "globbed on" location... even the other elevator antiriation pin doesn't have quite as much... no biggie... it won't weigh the plane down too much...
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Yep... 1.5" on the elevators and 1.25" on the Ailerons...
I ran out of SWB arms... and did use the stock thick arms that came witht he 5955's... they are 1.25" from the center of the shaft tot eh outermost hole... I just drill the hole out, tap it for 4/40 and then install a ball link...
THey are REALLY heavy duty, so I don't worry about them at all... but they just aren't enough for the elevators.... as it is I get 40 degree throw on the ailerons... I'm gonna go out on a limb and say these ailerons are VERY effective... tee hee...
Yeo Tailtouch... that's the goal... Saturday is looking nice... but Sunday rain... early next week is looking pretty nice too... and I've got 4 planes to maiden...
It's gonna be a swell spring!
I ran out of SWB arms... and did use the stock thick arms that came witht he 5955's... they are 1.25" from the center of the shaft tot eh outermost hole... I just drill the hole out, tap it for 4/40 and then install a ball link...
THey are REALLY heavy duty, so I don't worry about them at all... but they just aren't enough for the elevators.... as it is I get 40 degree throw on the ailerons... I'm gonna go out on a limb and say these ailerons are VERY effective... tee hee...
Yeo Tailtouch... that's the goal... Saturday is looking nice... but Sunday rain... early next week is looking pretty nice too... and I've got 4 planes to maiden...
It's gonna be a swell spring!
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Balance is no issue at all on this plane...
Now Chris is gonna shoot me here... BUT the modder in me just HAS to look...
If the engine WAS to be moved out 3/4" to 1" MORE then it's feasible a fella could move the rudder servo to the tail...
Here's a couple pics of where and how... I like direct, push-pull rudders... but pull-pull is fine too...
I am not recommending this mod... just that those so inclined with the skills could "git 'er dun"
With the engine out further, no tuned pipe behind CG and the battery moved forward... I think balance would be no issue by putting the rudder servo in the tail...
Now Chris is gonna shoot me here... BUT the modder in me just HAS to look...
If the engine WAS to be moved out 3/4" to 1" MORE then it's feasible a fella could move the rudder servo to the tail...
Here's a couple pics of where and how... I like direct, push-pull rudders... but pull-pull is fine too...
I am not recommending this mod... just that those so inclined with the skills could "git 'er dun"
With the engine out further, no tuned pipe behind CG and the battery moved forward... I think balance would be no issue by putting the rudder servo in the tail...
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Mike... we might be able to do that...
Dave, to be honest... I THINK that's the only thing there is to be found! No really! Things look fantastic...
I'm ready to install the radio gear now...
Dave, to be honest... I THINK that's the only thing there is to be found! No really! Things look fantastic...
I'm ready to install the radio gear now...
#115
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Maudib
O.K.
With the cowl taped at the 1/4" overlap past Former F1... this is how much the prop sticks out the cowl...
This is with the suggested 2.5" standoffs on the DA50 or the 1.75" stock length standoffs from Brillelli...
I think this is fine... though I would have NO problems going another 1/2" to 3/4"...
Chris says it's pretty easy to balance with the abttery around the tank area...
O.K.
With the cowl taped at the 1/4" overlap past Former F1... this is how much the prop sticks out the cowl...
This is with the suggested 2.5" standoffs on the DA50 or the 1.75" stock length standoffs from Brillelli...
I think this is fine... though I would have NO problems going another 1/2" to 3/4"...
Chris says it's pretty easy to balance with the abttery around the tank area...
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
No need to push the motor out. The cowl should overlap the F1 former by .75". Have a look at the manual, its all explained there, nothing left to chance.
With no tuned pipe you will have no balance issues David. Only with the KS1060 which has most of its mass behind the CG do you have to be really careful with component placement.
With no tuned pipe you will have no balance issues David. Only with the KS1060 which has most of its mass behind the CG do you have to be really careful with component placement.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Oh... gotcha.... I misread that and thought it said 1/4"... I've edited my above posts to refelct the proper info...
That's better... At least a good inch now outside the cowl... this shot is witht he cowl overlapping F1 by about 3/4"
That's better... At least a good inch now outside the cowl... this shot is witht he cowl overlapping F1 by about 3/4"
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Good job David! Between your's and chris's build threads there will be no stone unturned! I'll be home tommorrow waiting for the BBT
On a separate note, anyone still needing HS-5955's can call or e-mail Bill Hatcher at Troy Built Models and get them for $90.99ea. I asked if they would match OBrien Hobbies price and he said sure! [8D]
On a separate note, anyone still needing HS-5955's can call or e-mail Bill Hatcher at Troy Built Models and get them for $90.99ea. I asked if they would match OBrien Hobbies price and he said sure! [8D]
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Maudib
So far only one little minor error have I found... the silver stripe on the cowl is 3/4" thick and the trim stripe on the fuse is 1/2"
So far only one little minor error have I found... the silver stripe on the cowl is 3/4" thick and the trim stripe on the fuse is 1/2"
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: rdb127
Your package is on time with a scheduled delivery date of 02/23/2007
Woo hooo!!
Your package is on time with a scheduled delivery date of 02/23/2007
Woo hooo!!
Me too, except Yellow and Black! The only thing that might be a little trouble for me to get ahold of is the 4" SWB offset arm. I've got one ordered, but it shipped today 2nd day so it won't make it here in time for this weekend. Hopefully, it will be in Bowling Green at the terminal and I can go pick it up. I've also got the PMP Titanium axles coming as well.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Ultracote doesn't make trim sheets or the spray cans of paint to match the covering colors. I called Horizon a few minutes ago and as of right now they are between paint manufacturers, so it will be a while before matching paint is availible from them. They suggested that the Chevron brand of paint has colors that are "close", but so far I am not able to find it.[:@]
I was planning on painting Black/White checkerboard on the front of the cowl and rounding off the front of the Red with the silver/black stripes to follow.....was trying to avoid spending a hundred bucks plus at the auto paint supply store and hoping for some spray cans or small bottles of hobby paint to use in my airbrush. Suggestions Anyone?
I was planning on painting Black/White checkerboard on the front of the cowl and rounding off the front of the Red with the silver/black stripes to follow.....was trying to avoid spending a hundred bucks plus at the auto paint supply store and hoping for some spray cans or small bottles of hobby paint to use in my airbrush. Suggestions Anyone?
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
As I said guys... I'll be getting a roll and pre-cutting the 3/4" strips... just strip the 1/2" and apply... no need to buy a whole roll... this was only on the Yellow and Black... and MAY not have been on all of them... we'll see...
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
O.K. radio install...
I'm using the new DX& transmitter and AR7000 receiver... even though it's "new tech" in the RC community... it's already garners a great deal of follwoing and confidence... and that includes me... I guess...
It's a DINKY receiver with 7 channels and an extra battery port. It has a secondary receiver as part of the unti so it takes a "little" extra work... but not much.
The main receiver is oging behind the wingtube... so I cut a piece of 1/4" foam t fit underneath, and applied stickky loop velcro to the foam pad. The hook velcro was applied to the bottom of the main receiver. THen two dounle sided velcro strap are cut that will wrap aorunf the pad and receiver.
THe straps and foam pad are epoxied to the pipe tunnel... once cured... the main receiver is set in place and strapped in... nice, secure, padded mounting.
The second receiver is best mounted witht he antenna oreinted perpendicular to the main aintenna... (doesn't HAVE to be, but is recommended). SO I foudn a nice spot up near the canopy level that it would work great... even have a little "bar" to wrap velcro around and secure. SO a little pad is made with velcro and epoxied to the side of the fuse... receiver is velcroed to it and a strap wars it all together.
I'm using the new DX& transmitter and AR7000 receiver... even though it's "new tech" in the RC community... it's already garners a great deal of follwoing and confidence... and that includes me... I guess...
It's a DINKY receiver with 7 channels and an extra battery port. It has a secondary receiver as part of the unti so it takes a "little" extra work... but not much.
The main receiver is oging behind the wingtube... so I cut a piece of 1/4" foam t fit underneath, and applied stickky loop velcro to the foam pad. The hook velcro was applied to the bottom of the main receiver. THen two dounle sided velcro strap are cut that will wrap aorunf the pad and receiver.
THe straps and foam pad are epoxied to the pipe tunnel... once cured... the main receiver is set in place and strapped in... nice, secure, padded mounting.
The second receiver is best mounted witht he antenna oreinted perpendicular to the main aintenna... (doesn't HAVE to be, but is recommended). SO I foudn a nice spot up near the canopy level that it would work great... even have a little "bar" to wrap velcro around and secure. SO a little pad is made with velcro and epoxied to the side of the fuse... receiver is velcroed to it and a strap wars it all together.