Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Maudib
The gear shouldbe fine and not cause nose over at all...
The gear shouldbe fine and not cause nose over at all...
ORIGINAL: MaudibA single 2600 is being used at it's higher end of capacity (2.5c max)... and while it's probably fine... I prefer not press the most crucial link in my aircraft to the limits
A 4800/5200 pack offers internal redundancy (2 x 2800 packs) if a cell drops... you still have a pair working...
A 4800/5200 pack offers internal redundancy (2 x 2800 packs) if a cell drops... you still have a pair working...
#1253
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Josey Wales
Sounds good..do they come pre-drilled ?
Thats what I was thinking as well
ORIGINAL: Maudib
The gear shouldbe fine and not cause nose over at all...
The gear shouldbe fine and not cause nose over at all...
ORIGINAL: MaudibA single 2600 is being used at it's higher end of capacity (2.5c max)... and while it's probably fine... I prefer not press the most crucial link in my aircraft to the limits
A 4800/5200 pack offers internal redundancy (2 x 2800 packs) if a cell drops... you still have a pair working...
A 4800/5200 pack offers internal redundancy (2 x 2800 packs) if a cell drops... you still have a pair working...
If you plan to use the SD Models CF gear, don't drill your fusalage for the stock gear. The mounting holes from the stock gear will be to wide for the CF gear. (The CF gear is slightly narrower) It will be interesting to see what rdb (richard) reports about using this gear. I think he will be the first.
John
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
They aren't actual holes persay... but they are "dimpled" where you can drill your holes... (like about the diameter/depth of the dimple in a golf ball)...
They are really sexy lookin'
They are really sexy lookin'
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Maudib
They aren't actual holes persay... but they are "dimpled" where you can drill your holes... (like about the diameter/depth of the dimple in a golf ball)...
They are really sexy lookin'
They aren't actual holes persay... but they are "dimpled" where you can drill your holes... (like about the diameter/depth of the dimple in a golf ball)...
They are really sexy lookin'
Sexy huh!!!... You need to get out of the house more!! haha..
Speaking of that, Friday is the day. Chris is making a trip to my club to fly for a few hours and hopefully give my plane a good look over before the maiden, I'm looking forward to having "The Man" there to make it go smooth. I'll have video and will post it over the weekend. I have no idea how much it weighs and don't care.. But if I had to guess, I would say around 18lbs...
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
I have thought the easy way to save weight in the engine mounting might be to replace the steel 1/4 x 20 bolts with aluminum or titanium bolts. Those bolts seem heavey to me. Does anyone know if aluminum bolts will work or is there a strech problem. I'm sure titanium would work but probably expensive.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: bgold
I have thought the easy way to save weight in the engine mounting might be to replace the steel 1/4 x 20 bolts with aluminum or titanium bolts. Those bolts seem heavey to me. Does anyone know if aluminum bolts will work or is there a strech problem. I'm sure titanium would work but probably expensive.
I have thought the easy way to save weight in the engine mounting might be to replace the steel 1/4 x 20 bolts with aluminum or titanium bolts. Those bolts seem heavey to me. Does anyone know if aluminum bolts will work or is there a strech problem. I'm sure titanium would work but probably expensive.
john
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: jrjohn
Yes, the big 1/4 x20 bolts are heavy, Thats why I downsized them to 10-32 I have a friend that is going to use 1/4x20 alluminum bolts on some 1 inch standoffs. I always trust his judgment. In this case with the 3 inch standoffs, I don't know if alluminum is acceptable or not. I'm sure titanium would be great. But the price is crazy. Anbody have a reasonable outlet for 10-32 titanium cap screws?
john
ORIGINAL: bgold
I have thought the easy way to save weight in the engine mounting might be to replace the steel 1/4 x 20 bolts with aluminum or titanium bolts. Those bolts seem heavey to me. Does anyone know if aluminum bolts will work or is there a strech problem. I'm sure titanium would work but probably expensive.
I have thought the easy way to save weight in the engine mounting might be to replace the steel 1/4 x 20 bolts with aluminum or titanium bolts. Those bolts seem heavey to me. Does anyone know if aluminum bolts will work or is there a strech problem. I'm sure titanium would work but probably expensive.
john
http://www.unitedtitanium.com/screws/ - You weight freaks can go here and replace all your 2-56 4-40 screws as well..
#1260
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Mokken
http://www.mcmaster.com/ or http://www.unitedtitanium.com
http://www.unitedtitanium.com/screws/ - You weight freaks can go here and replace all your 2-56 4-40 screws as well..
ORIGINAL: jrjohn
Yes, the big 1/4 x20 bolts are heavy, Thats why I downsized them to 10-32 I have a friend that is going to use 1/4x20 alluminum bolts on some 1 inch standoffs. I always trust his judgment. In this case with the 3 inch standoffs, I don't know if alluminum is acceptable or not. I'm sure titanium would be great. But the price is crazy. Anbody have a reasonable outlet for 10-32 titanium cap screws?
john
ORIGINAL: bgold
I have thought the easy way to save weight in the engine mounting might be to replace the steel 1/4 x 20 bolts with aluminum or titanium bolts. Those bolts seem heavey to me. Does anyone know if aluminum bolts will work or is there a strech problem. I'm sure titanium would work but probably expensive.
I have thought the easy way to save weight in the engine mounting might be to replace the steel 1/4 x 20 bolts with aluminum or titanium bolts. Those bolts seem heavey to me. Does anyone know if aluminum bolts will work or is there a strech problem. I'm sure titanium would work but probably expensive.
john
http://www.unitedtitanium.com/screws/ - You weight freaks can go here and replace all your 2-56 4-40 screws as well..
The told me he gets calls all the time from RC guys and has never sold a screw to us yet.
John
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: jrjohn
I just spoke with United Titanium. They will sell the 10-32 X 1'' cap screw for a low low price of 6.24 each plus shiping. You would need 8 of them. Your talking about 60 bucks with shipping. I DON'T THINK SO
The told me he gets calls all the time from RC guys and has never sold a screw to us yet.
John
ORIGINAL: Mokken
http://www.mcmaster.com/ or http://www.unitedtitanium.com
http://www.unitedtitanium.com/screws/ - You weight freaks can go here and replace all your 2-56 4-40 screws as well..
ORIGINAL: jrjohn
Yes, the big 1/4 x20 bolts are heavy, Thats why I downsized them to 10-32 I have a friend that is going to use 1/4x20 alluminum bolts on some 1 inch standoffs. I always trust his judgment. In this case with the 3 inch standoffs, I don't know if alluminum is acceptable or not. I'm sure titanium would be great. But the price is crazy. Anbody have a reasonable outlet for 10-32 titanium cap screws?
john
ORIGINAL: bgold
I have thought the easy way to save weight in the engine mounting might be to replace the steel 1/4 x 20 bolts with aluminum or titanium bolts. Those bolts seem heavey to me. Does anyone know if aluminum bolts will work or is there a strech problem. I'm sure titanium would work but probably expensive.
I have thought the easy way to save weight in the engine mounting might be to replace the steel 1/4 x 20 bolts with aluminum or titanium bolts. Those bolts seem heavey to me. Does anyone know if aluminum bolts will work or is there a strech problem. I'm sure titanium would work but probably expensive.
john
http://www.unitedtitanium.com/screws/ - You weight freaks can go here and replace all your 2-56 4-40 screws as well..
The told me he gets calls all the time from RC guys and has never sold a screw to us yet.
John
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
But it's all about the WEIGHT!!! DO IT!!!! It's only $60.....For the love of Weight!!! Just do it....
Mokken has been "OFFICIALLY" converted.
Sorry "officially" the caps weigh too much.
Mokken has been "OFFICIALLY" converted.
Sorry "officially" the caps weigh too much.
#1264
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: rdb127
But it's all about the WEIGHT!!! DO IT!!!! It's only $60.....For the love of Weight!!! Just do it....
Mokken has been "OFFICIALLY" converted.
Sorry "officially" the caps weigh too much.
But it's all about the WEIGHT!!! DO IT!!!! It's only $60.....For the love of Weight!!! Just do it....
Mokken has been "OFFICIALLY" converted.
Sorry "officially" the caps weigh too much.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: rdb127
But it's all about the WEIGHT!!! DO IT!!!! It's only $60.....For the love of Weight!!! Just do it....
Mokken has been "OFFICIALLY" converted.
Sorry "officially" the caps weigh too much.
But it's all about the WEIGHT!!! DO IT!!!! It's only $60.....For the love of Weight!!! Just do it....
Mokken has been "OFFICIALLY" converted.
Sorry "officially" the caps weigh too much.
We will find out how well my brick fly's tomorrow.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Good luck Mokken. I am certain that you will enjoy your plane.
John the field is closed today to prepare for the weekend event and I must work anyway. If all goes to plan I might get er done tomorrow.
If course I will only give the lightened version of the report. [8D] I initally had fretted weight because of the reputation of the Zenoah's and didn't want to wind up with a double brik.
I still keep looking around to see what parts I left out of this plane..... gotta be something the daggone thing came out TOO light. [X(]
John the field is closed today to prepare for the weekend event and I must work anyway. If all goes to plan I might get er done tomorrow.
If course I will only give the lightened version of the report. [8D] I initally had fretted weight because of the reputation of the Zenoah's and didn't want to wind up with a double brik.
I still keep looking around to see what parts I left out of this plane..... gotta be something the daggone thing came out TOO light. [X(]
#1267
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: rdb127
Good luck Mokken. I am certain that you will enjoy your plane.
John the field is closed today to prepare for the weekend event and I must work anyway. If all goes to plan I might get er done tomorrow.
If course I will only give the lightened version of the report. [8D] I initally had fretted weight because of the reputation of the Zenoah's and didn't want to wind up with a double brik.
I still keep looking around to see what parts I left out of this plane..... gotta be something the daggone thing came out TOO light. [X(]
Good luck Mokken. I am certain that you will enjoy your plane.
John the field is closed today to prepare for the weekend event and I must work anyway. If all goes to plan I might get er done tomorrow.
If course I will only give the lightened version of the report. [8D] I initally had fretted weight because of the reputation of the Zenoah's and didn't want to wind up with a double brik.
I still keep looking around to see what parts I left out of this plane..... gotta be something the daggone thing came out TOO light. [X(]
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Well, I bit the bullet and ordered one. I also ordered the Brillelli and 5955's for all surfaces. Question, Can I power 5 x 5955's and 1 x 225 with a 6v 2700mah nimh battery? I've already spent more than I told my wife I was gonna need. That never happens! HaHa!
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
cwhite you should be fine on that set up as many had did that back in the day with splitting a plane like a 40% with your set up being one of those halves.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: cwhite
Well, I bit the bullet and ordered one. I also ordered the Brillelli and 5955's for all surfaces. Question, Can I power 5 x 5955's and 1 x 225 with a 6v 2700mah nimh battery? I've already spent more than I told my wife I was gonna need. That never happens! HaHa!
Thanks,
Chris
Well, I bit the bullet and ordered one. I also ordered the Brillelli and 5955's for all surfaces. Question, Can I power 5 x 5955's and 1 x 225 with a 6v 2700mah nimh battery? I've already spent more than I told my wife I was gonna need. That never happens! HaHa!
Thanks,
Chris
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: jrjohn
They are pre-drilled for the wheel pants and axils. The base is not drilled, however they have small starter holes drilled into the surface so you know where to put the holes if your putting it on a 33% AM Yak. ( I used these locations for my EF yak)
If you plan to use the SD Models CF gear, don't drill your fusalage for the stock gear. The mounting holes from the stock gear will be to wide for the CF gear. (The CF gear is slightly narrower) It will be interesting to see what rdb (richard) reports about using this gear. I think he will be the first.
John
They are pre-drilled for the wheel pants and axils. The base is not drilled, however they have small starter holes drilled into the surface so you know where to put the holes if your putting it on a 33% AM Yak. ( I used these locations for my EF yak)
If you plan to use the SD Models CF gear, don't drill your fusalage for the stock gear. The mounting holes from the stock gear will be to wide for the CF gear. (The CF gear is slightly narrower) It will be interesting to see what rdb (richard) reports about using this gear. I think he will be the first.
John
#1272
RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
use new style cells !
older ones have too much impedance
I am using 2 A123 cells 2300MA and they will handle more instant current drain than 4800 ma cells .
The CellPro charger shows how much power is left after each flight 90%- 80%-- 70% etc.. when I get to 30%
recharge at 3 amps - or after each flight
Or use any charger rate up to 10 amps if you have right setup
The advantage is low weight , high current potential and no fu--- regulator.
older ones have too much impedance
I am using 2 A123 cells 2300MA and they will handle more instant current drain than 4800 ma cells .
The CellPro charger shows how much power is left after each flight 90%- 80%-- 70% etc.. when I get to 30%
recharge at 3 amps - or after each flight
Or use any charger rate up to 10 amps if you have right setup
The advantage is low weight , high current potential and no fu--- regulator.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
They do look nice...
But they really aren't that much lighter (5+ oz for a 2800 pack) than a 5200 Lion pack... Instead of toting that 12 volt battery to the field... you can fly all day, go home and run 'em back up.
I don't mind a reg and the higher voltage... the failsafe switch feature and multiple RC plugs for power output and consistant voltage are worth the price of admission.
The A123 packs need a couple leads attached and two switches to get past the 3.5 amp limit of the rc connectors... those two switches cost nearly enough to pay for the reg and it's faislafe switch...
THey might also cause servos to jitter freshly charged without a regulator (7.2 volts topped)
A 4 cell Lion also has the redundancy built in (2 packs in parallel)
I think it's a tossup as to whether one is better than the other... but for me not having to tote a 12 battery to the field and keep IT charged is more hassle then just carry about an ounce more weight and twcie the capacity.
Interesting also are the 123A camera batteries... (not to be confused with the A123 cells) Like 2/3 A size or some such at .6 oz and 650 mah... two would make a 1.3 oz (with connector/shrink) ignition battery for those ignitions that accept 2 cell lipos...
Now that's a nice lightweight option... and at $3 a cell... dirt cheap. A person could even make up a nice redundant pack 2s2p and have a 2.5 oz, 1300 mah ignition battery and last all day like the 4800/5200 lion pack does on the receiver...
Or look at the 750 mah, .8 oz AA Lion cells...
But they really aren't that much lighter (5+ oz for a 2800 pack) than a 5200 Lion pack... Instead of toting that 12 volt battery to the field... you can fly all day, go home and run 'em back up.
I don't mind a reg and the higher voltage... the failsafe switch feature and multiple RC plugs for power output and consistant voltage are worth the price of admission.
The A123 packs need a couple leads attached and two switches to get past the 3.5 amp limit of the rc connectors... those two switches cost nearly enough to pay for the reg and it's faislafe switch...
THey might also cause servos to jitter freshly charged without a regulator (7.2 volts topped)
A 4 cell Lion also has the redundancy built in (2 packs in parallel)
I think it's a tossup as to whether one is better than the other... but for me not having to tote a 12 battery to the field and keep IT charged is more hassle then just carry about an ounce more weight and twcie the capacity.
Interesting also are the 123A camera batteries... (not to be confused with the A123 cells) Like 2/3 A size or some such at .6 oz and 650 mah... two would make a 1.3 oz (with connector/shrink) ignition battery for those ignitions that accept 2 cell lipos...
Now that's a nice lightweight option... and at $3 a cell... dirt cheap. A person could even make up a nice redundant pack 2s2p and have a 2.5 oz, 1300 mah ignition battery and last all day like the 4800/5200 lion pack does on the receiver...
Or look at the 750 mah, .8 oz AA Lion cells...