Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
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Yeah thanks guys for the opinions. I think I will do the 88". I guess when I'm really ready there will always be a 100cc plane that I'll fall in love with! I have the Pitts Challenger for Pau but I don't know if I'm ready to fly a Bi-plane. I was hoping I could sell it NIB to get the DL-50 for the 88". As far as money being tight isn't it always when it comes to spending that much $ on a grown mans toys?
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That would be sweet! I'd love to check out the 110.
ORIGINAL: cjcyclesrc
You live pretty close too me. Your welcome to come check out my 110". I fly here in Temple and travel up to Tyler and Mt. Pleasant about once a month. That's a hard question to answer. They both are awesome planes. The best way I can describe it is you will say WOW!!! when you fly the 88" and WOW!!! when you fly the 110". LOL I guess my advice is to buy the one that you can feel comfortable with the money. If you are concerned about the money of the 110" you might not be as comfortable flying it.
ORIGINAL: X21F3J
I know I'm such a freak. For the price of the 110 I could have the 88 and a da-50.
I know I'm such a freak. For the price of the 110 I could have the 88 and a da-50.
You live pretty close too me. Your welcome to come check out my 110". I fly here in Temple and travel up to Tyler and Mt. Pleasant about once a month. That's a hard question to answer. They both are awesome planes. The best way I can describe it is you will say WOW!!! when you fly the 88" and WOW!!! when you fly the 110". LOL I guess my advice is to buy the one that you can feel comfortable with the money. If you are concerned about the money of the 110" you might not be as comfortable flying it.
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Cool. Got it. It has been pretty damn windy..[&o]
Cool. Got it. It has been pretty damn windy..[&o]
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I was flying yesterday in 50 degrees, sunny, and almost no wind. Man this is some thick air. Engine loves it and the plane just floats. After flying the Yak and Extra one week apart, I have to say that I favor the Yak. It's just so well behaved. Loves to fly on its side which is one of my favorite attitudes. It's very neutral so it doesn't get weird on you during rolling manuevers.
PS: For high alpha knife edge, the Extra takes a little more work holding a line and keeping it from rolling. The yak takes very little work and requires much less rudder. Doesn't roll out on you, does it much slower. Being a hard core 3D guy the Yak is just easier to huck.
PS: For high alpha knife edge, the Extra takes a little more work holding a line and keeping it from rolling. The yak takes very little work and requires much less rudder. Doesn't roll out on you, does it much slower. Being a hard core 3D guy the Yak is just easier to huck.
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Hey Joe, or anyone,
When I do high alpha KE, it seems when I try to rotate vertical, at some point it rolls out very fast. I can hold a pretty good straight line KE with about 2/3 throttle, then if I give it more rudder at some point it gets really squirlly. That is with full rudder deflection rate and about 80% expo. Maybe I am hitting the steep part of the expo curve and it's too sensitive? I'll take some expo out???
Another trim question. When on full 3D rates (max deflection) I do the vertical dive and pull the elevator only fast, my yak will snap. I've tried adding weight to wing tip and aligning elevator halves but just can't get it to go to a straight float down. On max deflection do you guys get a nice horizontal float down or does yours snap a bit?
thx
Gator
When I do high alpha KE, it seems when I try to rotate vertical, at some point it rolls out very fast. I can hold a pretty good straight line KE with about 2/3 throttle, then if I give it more rudder at some point it gets really squirlly. That is with full rudder deflection rate and about 80% expo. Maybe I am hitting the steep part of the expo curve and it's too sensitive? I'll take some expo out???
Another trim question. When on full 3D rates (max deflection) I do the vertical dive and pull the elevator only fast, my yak will snap. I've tried adding weight to wing tip and aligning elevator halves but just can't get it to go to a straight float down. On max deflection do you guys get a nice horizontal float down or does yours snap a bit?
thx
Gator
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Do you mean while you're doing some sort of knife edge loop when you say rotate? Are you swooping down and then trying to gain altitude on your way to the vertical part of the loop? I think this Yak has so much rudder authority that you can't really give it full rudder without it snapping out. I've never personally tried full rudder. Maybe you should try to power out with more throttle and hold less rudder....as much as you can but not to the snapping point. I think most planes will snap out with too much rudder applied too fast. It has to be rolled on gradually while keeping the plane locked sideways with ailerons and elevator. Not sure this helped. I do a lot of high alpha knife edges but did not try a knife edge loop in my 1st 6 flights. The ones I did down the runway were totally locked in and incredibly slow.
Mine will pull a nice elevator from vertical without the snap. Question, if you sort of fight it with ailerons and rudder to hold it straight, will it finally settle out to a level wing float down? That's what I would try. It may be that you need to keep the wings level with your sticks during the transition time until it locks in.
Did you try the "non-stalled" pull up from a vertical dive to see if your dynamic lateral balance is ok? This is part of the trim process. Do this a couple of times on low rates. Pull only elevator, no aileron or rudder. But don't pull so hard that it stalls. If you see a wing drop when you transition from vertical down to level flight you know you are still having lateral balance issues. Add weight to the light wing tip. Diamond Dave had this same issue and fixed it with a couple ounces of wing tip weight. I did this test on both the Yak and Extra and could not see any wing drop.
Mine will pull a nice elevator from vertical without the snap. Question, if you sort of fight it with ailerons and rudder to hold it straight, will it finally settle out to a level wing float down? That's what I would try. It may be that you need to keep the wings level with your sticks during the transition time until it locks in.
Did you try the "non-stalled" pull up from a vertical dive to see if your dynamic lateral balance is ok? This is part of the trim process. Do this a couple of times on low rates. Pull only elevator, no aileron or rudder. But don't pull so hard that it stalls. If you see a wing drop when you transition from vertical down to level flight you know you are still having lateral balance issues. Add weight to the light wing tip. Diamond Dave had this same issue and fixed it with a couple ounces of wing tip weight. I did this test on both the Yak and Extra and could not see any wing drop.
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ORIGINAL: JoeAirPort
Do you mean while you're doing some sort of knife edge loop when you say rotate? Are you swooping down and then trying to gain altitude on your way to the vertical part of the loop? I think this Yak has so much rudder authority that you can't really give it full rudder without it snapping out. I've never personally tried full rudder. Maybe you should try to power out with more throttle and hold less rudder....as much as you can but not to the snapping point. I think most planes will snap out with too much rudder applied too fast. It has to be rolled on gradually while keeping the plane locked sideways with ailerons and elevator. Not sure this helped. I do a lot of high alpha knife edges but did not try a knife edge loop in my 1st 6 flights. The ones I did down the runway were totally locked in and incredibly slow.
Gatorb8 reply: Ok, I think I am giving it full rudder and expecting it to go to hover from KE (like my foamy wil do!), I'll try more throttle, less rudder
Mine will pull a nice elevator from vertical without the snap. Question, if you sort of fight it with ailerons and rudder to hold it straight, will it finally settle out to a level wing float down? That's what I would try. It may be that you need to keep the wings level with your sticks during the transition time until it locks in.
Did you try the "non-stalled" pull up from a vertical dive to see if your dynamic lateral balance is ok? This is part of the trim process. Do this a couple of times on low rates. Pull only elevator, no aileron or rudder. But don't pull so hard that it stalls. If you see a wing drop when you transition from vertical down to level flight you know you are still having lateral balance issues. Add weight to the light wing tip. Diamond Dave had this same issue and fixed it with a couple ounces of wing tip weight. I did this test on both the Yak and Extra and could not see any wing drop.
Do you mean while you're doing some sort of knife edge loop when you say rotate? Are you swooping down and then trying to gain altitude on your way to the vertical part of the loop? I think this Yak has so much rudder authority that you can't really give it full rudder without it snapping out. I've never personally tried full rudder. Maybe you should try to power out with more throttle and hold less rudder....as much as you can but not to the snapping point. I think most planes will snap out with too much rudder applied too fast. It has to be rolled on gradually while keeping the plane locked sideways with ailerons and elevator. Not sure this helped. I do a lot of high alpha knife edges but did not try a knife edge loop in my 1st 6 flights. The ones I did down the runway were totally locked in and incredibly slow.
Gatorb8 reply: Ok, I think I am giving it full rudder and expecting it to go to hover from KE (like my foamy wil do!), I'll try more throttle, less rudder
Mine will pull a nice elevator from vertical without the snap. Question, if you sort of fight it with ailerons and rudder to hold it straight, will it finally settle out to a level wing float down? That's what I would try. It may be that you need to keep the wings level with your sticks during the transition time until it locks in.
Did you try the "non-stalled" pull up from a vertical dive to see if your dynamic lateral balance is ok? This is part of the trim process. Do this a couple of times on low rates. Pull only elevator, no aileron or rudder. But don't pull so hard that it stalls. If you see a wing drop when you transition from vertical down to level flight you know you are still having lateral balance issues. Add weight to the light wing tip. Diamond Dave had this same issue and fixed it with a couple ounces of wing tip weight. I did this test on both the Yak and Extra and could not see any wing drop.
thx
Gator
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Gator,
Check your elevators. Tape a stick or CF rod to each elevator to where they come back and meet behind the rudder. Now run the elevator through the whole range and make sure the sticks move at the same rate and equal distance. That could be your problem. As far as knife edge question. Try easing out of the throttle as you ease in the rudder. I normally do that to set it a little higher alpha before adding throttle to pull a knife edge loop. When you get used to it you can slow it down and pull it up into a hover from a knife edge without changing your altitude.
Check your elevators. Tape a stick or CF rod to each elevator to where they come back and meet behind the rudder. Now run the elevator through the whole range and make sure the sticks move at the same rate and equal distance. That could be your problem. As far as knife edge question. Try easing out of the throttle as you ease in the rudder. I normally do that to set it a little higher alpha before adding throttle to pull a knife edge loop. When you get used to it you can slow it down and pull it up into a hover from a knife edge without changing your altitude.
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hey guys i know this is off topic but now i've run into another problem on whether to get the 88" or the 110". First of all at the moment I don't even have an engine for either of them yet. Now, have any of you been on the wildharerc site? The guy has a special on 100cc planes + the new 100cc DL-100 for 1495.00 that sounds like a great deal to me since you are almost getting the plane for free. The one I was looking at is the 105" Extra 260. However, I was looking at the building instructions and he's pretty much warning the buyer of all these potential problem areas that were overlooked or may have been over looked at the factory. Wildhare is really close to where I live so I could just pick it up and not pay the $100 shipping. Does this sound good? Could one of you guys look this thing over for me. I'm sure it's a great plane but I just want another opinion. Or should I just stay on track with the Extreme Flight? Thanks guys!
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the only wildhare ive seen in person was the 74" yak i think it was, they dont make it anymore, anyway its heavy for it size and flies that way too, my 88 was like a kite compared to my buddies wildhare, ive heard the same thing about the edge they make too, heavy, guess thats why they are less $$$, plus you need to buy the hardware pack for extra $$, ive found in this hobby you really do get what you pay for in the way of planes; quality, type of hardware, and most importantly flying characteristics, i think you will find all of us ef plane owners will have a bias opinion to that as well
, to me they are the best company out there if you want a true good flying plane
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the only other brand plane that i really enjoy is the sd models, i have the 33%yak with a zdz80 and it is a joy to fly, and it was about the same price as some 50cc size planes, but i think they went up a bit, maybe chief still has some cheaper, if not its acehobby.com, however ef's hardware is nicer and easier to set up, and the sd's dont come with wing bags or canopy cover, or cf wing tubes and all the other goodies that you get with ef, just buying wing bags puts you up to the same price if not more, check them out if you want though....i think once you go ef you will be spoiled and if you try and judge other planes against them its just not fare
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I did notice like you said no hardware,muffler or bags and the manual says I have to do all these extra things. It's like it's not really an ARF but a builders plane. I like to build but sometimes and certainly for the money I just want to put together you know. I do love EF planes and I guess I really had already made up my mind. I thought the deal with WH sounded good but I think it will all end up the same except I would have settled for something I really didn't want and it seems like I've done that too many times! No More! Damn! Now I have to decide on the 88" (can fly soon) 110" (save for the DL-100). I might go with the 110" since I already have a 27% Pitts Challenger.
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I got 6 flights in today and was able to dial in my rudder / KE issue. I had the throws at 100% and expo at 80%. I think the throw required for KE was way out on the steep part of the curve so the rudder moved too much for a little stick movement. I turned the expo down to 50% and KE was smoooooooooooooth! I need to characterize this and find the sweet spot.
I still have to work on the snap on full elevator. I've checked and double checked the elevator halves and they are parallel at neutral, full deflection, and all along the way. The only thing I can think of is maybe one is faster than the other, that would explain why it snaps right at first then settles into a smooth down-float?????????
Oh, and I had a flame out due to dead Rx battery today.....I have dual receivers/ dual batteries and the one controling the ignition cut died, engine died, glided in on 1/2 aileron, 1/2 elevator, landed in high grass and twisted the LG. I love that aluminum LG, just have a few crecent wrenches and a vise and you are back flying in no time! oh yeah, it was pilot error, 1 to many flights..........I need one of those golf shot counters
I need to do some searching on dual Rx setups. There has to be a way to "OR" the 2 receivers together on the ignition cut-off so if either Rx is working, the ignition is working. I'm thinking "OR" gate of maybe just simple diodes off each Rx and tied to the optical ignition cut-off???? Someone must have solved this already.....
any one???
Gator
edit BTW "OR" means if you have 2 inputs, if either one "or" the other inputs in on, the output will be on.
I still have to work on the snap on full elevator. I've checked and double checked the elevator halves and they are parallel at neutral, full deflection, and all along the way. The only thing I can think of is maybe one is faster than the other, that would explain why it snaps right at first then settles into a smooth down-float?????????
Oh, and I had a flame out due to dead Rx battery today.....I have dual receivers/ dual batteries and the one controling the ignition cut died, engine died, glided in on 1/2 aileron, 1/2 elevator, landed in high grass and twisted the LG. I love that aluminum LG, just have a few crecent wrenches and a vise and you are back flying in no time! oh yeah, it was pilot error, 1 to many flights..........I need one of those golf shot counters
I need to do some searching on dual Rx setups. There has to be a way to "OR" the 2 receivers together on the ignition cut-off so if either Rx is working, the ignition is working. I'm thinking "OR" gate of maybe just simple diodes off each Rx and tied to the optical ignition cut-off???? Someone must have solved this already.....
any one???
Gator
edit BTW "OR" means if you have 2 inputs, if either one "or" the other inputs in on, the output will be on.
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in reply to x....yeh ive done that too, got a plane cause it was cheaper and available, but then still wanted the ef one and ended up getting it anyway and was glad i did, you made the right choice regardless if you get the 88 or the 110, rcshowcase had a cheaper 100cc out now too i think
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Well guys I hope to be joining the "WOW" club this weekend if it isn't snowing or raining. The girlfriend was working tonight so I took advantage of that and finished her up in the living room.
I had a big order come in from TBM but they failed to send me my 4" SWB servo arm for my rudder![:@] I'll have my fingers crossed on it being here by the weekend.
Any advice first time out guys? Or is she just a big baby.
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I had a big order come in from TBM but they failed to send me my 4" SWB servo arm for my rudder![:@] I'll have my fingers crossed on it being here by the weekend.
Any advice first time out guys? Or is she just a big baby.
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ORIGINAL: Gatorb8
I got 6 flights in today and was able to dial in my rudder / KE issue. I had the throws at 100% and expo at 80%. I think the throw required for KE was way out on the steep part of the curve so the rudder moved too much for a little stick movement. I turned the expo down to 50% and KE was smoooooooooooooth! I need to characterize this and find the sweet spot.
I still have to work on the snap on full elevator. I've checked and double checked the elevator halves and they are parallel at neutral, full deflection, and all along the way. The only thing I can think of is maybe one is faster than the other, that would explain why it snaps right at first then settles into a smooth down-float?????????
Oh, and I had a flame out due to dead Rx battery today.....I have dual receivers/ dual batteries and the one controling the ignition cut died, engine died, glided in on 1/2 aileron, 1/2 elevator, landed in high grass and twisted the LG. I love that aluminum LG, just have a few crecent wrenches and a vise and you are back flying in no time! oh yeah, it was pilot error, 1 to many flights..........I need one of those golf shot counters
I need to do some searching on dual Rx setups. There has to be a way to "OR" the 2 receivers together on the ignition cut-off so if either Rx is working, the ignition is working. I'm thinking "OR" gate of maybe just simple diodes off each Rx and tied to the optical ignition cut-off???? Someone must have solved this already.....
any one???
Gator
edit BTW "OR" means if you have 2 inputs, if either one "or" the other inputs in on, the output will be on.
I got 6 flights in today and was able to dial in my rudder / KE issue. I had the throws at 100% and expo at 80%. I think the throw required for KE was way out on the steep part of the curve so the rudder moved too much for a little stick movement. I turned the expo down to 50% and KE was smoooooooooooooth! I need to characterize this and find the sweet spot.
I still have to work on the snap on full elevator. I've checked and double checked the elevator halves and they are parallel at neutral, full deflection, and all along the way. The only thing I can think of is maybe one is faster than the other, that would explain why it snaps right at first then settles into a smooth down-float?????????
Oh, and I had a flame out due to dead Rx battery today.....I have dual receivers/ dual batteries and the one controling the ignition cut died, engine died, glided in on 1/2 aileron, 1/2 elevator, landed in high grass and twisted the LG. I love that aluminum LG, just have a few crecent wrenches and a vise and you are back flying in no time! oh yeah, it was pilot error, 1 to many flights..........I need one of those golf shot counters
I need to do some searching on dual Rx setups. There has to be a way to "OR" the 2 receivers together on the ignition cut-off so if either Rx is working, the ignition is working. I'm thinking "OR" gate of maybe just simple diodes off each Rx and tied to the optical ignition cut-off???? Someone must have solved this already.....
any one???
Gator
edit BTW "OR" means if you have 2 inputs, if either one "or" the other inputs in on, the output will be on.
If you have a Smart-Fly Optic cut off just plug one lead into each RX. Then if you loose one it won't kill the motor.
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hey guys i know this is off topic but now i've run into another problem on whether to get the 88" or the 110". First of all at the moment I don't even have an engine for either of them yet. Now, have any of you been on the wildharerc site? The guy has a special on 100cc planes + the new 100cc DL-100 for 1495.00 that sounds like a great deal to me since you are almost getting the plane for free. The one I was looking at is the 105" Extra 260. However, I was looking at the building instructions and he's pretty much warning the buyer of all these potential problem areas that were overlooked or may have been over looked at the factory. Wildhare is really close to where I live so I could just pick it up and not pay the $100 shipping. Does this sound good? Could one of you guys look this thing over for me. I'm sure it's a great plane but I just want another opinion. Or should I just stay on track with the Extreme Flight? Thanks guys!
hey guys i know this is off topic but now i've run into another problem on whether to get the 88" or the 110". First of all at the moment I don't even have an engine for either of them yet. Now, have any of you been on the wildharerc site? The guy has a special on 100cc planes + the new 100cc DL-100 for 1495.00 that sounds like a great deal to me since you are almost getting the plane for free. The one I was looking at is the 105" Extra 260. However, I was looking at the building instructions and he's pretty much warning the buyer of all these potential problem areas that were overlooked or may have been over looked at the factory. Wildhare is really close to where I live so I could just pick it up and not pay the $100 shipping. Does this sound good? Could one of you guys look this thing over for me. I'm sure it's a great plane but I just want another opinion. Or should I just stay on track with the Extreme Flight? Thanks guys!
Don't forget you also have $125 in taxes if you go that way.
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I have but one experience with W/H and it was a very bad one both in quality of product, or should I say lack of quality, and customer service. There is no comparison between the two. EF all the way!
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ORIGINAL: tashley
I have but one experience with W/H and it was a very bad one both in quality of product, or should I say lack of quality, and customer service. There is no comparison between the two. EF all the way!
I have but one experience with W/H and it was a very bad one both in quality of product, or should I say lack of quality, and customer service. There is no comparison between the two. EF all the way!
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ORIGINAL: cjcyclesrc
Maybe it's just us local guys that don't get good WH service. I don't plan to buy anything else from WH after the experience I had.
Maybe it's just us local guys that don't get good WH service. I don't plan to buy anything else from WH after the experience I had.
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ORIGINAL: cjcyclesrc
If you have a Smart-Fly Optic cut off just plug one lead into each RX. Then if you loose one it won't kill the motor.
ORIGINAL: Gatorb8
I got 6 flights in today and was able to dial in my rudder / KE issue. I had the throws at 100% and expo at 80%. I think the throw required for KE was way out on the steep part of the curve so the rudder moved too much for a little stick movement. I turned the expo down to 50% and KE was smoooooooooooooth! I need to characterize this and find the sweet spot.
I still have to work on the snap on full elevator. I've checked and double checked the elevator halves and they are parallel at neutral, full deflection, and all along the way. The only thing I can think of is maybe one is faster than the other, that would explain why it snaps right at first then settles into a smooth down-float?????????
Oh, and I had a flame out due to dead Rx battery today.....I have dual receivers/ dual batteries and the one controling the ignition cut died, engine died, glided in on 1/2 aileron, 1/2 elevator, landed in high grass and twisted the LG. I love that aluminum LG, just have a few crecent wrenches and a vise and you are back flying in no time! oh yeah, it was pilot error, 1 to many flights..........I need one of those golf shot counters
I need to do some searching on dual Rx setups. There has to be a way to "OR" the 2 receivers together on the ignition cut-off so if either Rx is working, the ignition is working. I'm thinking "OR" gate of maybe just simple diodes off each Rx and tied to the optical ignition cut-off???? Someone must have solved this already.....
any one???
Gator
edit BTW "OR" means if you have 2 inputs, if either one "or" the other inputs in on, the output will be on.
I got 6 flights in today and was able to dial in my rudder / KE issue. I had the throws at 100% and expo at 80%. I think the throw required for KE was way out on the steep part of the curve so the rudder moved too much for a little stick movement. I turned the expo down to 50% and KE was smoooooooooooooth! I need to characterize this and find the sweet spot.
I still have to work on the snap on full elevator. I've checked and double checked the elevator halves and they are parallel at neutral, full deflection, and all along the way. The only thing I can think of is maybe one is faster than the other, that would explain why it snaps right at first then settles into a smooth down-float?????????
Oh, and I had a flame out due to dead Rx battery today.....I have dual receivers/ dual batteries and the one controling the ignition cut died, engine died, glided in on 1/2 aileron, 1/2 elevator, landed in high grass and twisted the LG. I love that aluminum LG, just have a few crecent wrenches and a vise and you are back flying in no time! oh yeah, it was pilot error, 1 to many flights..........I need one of those golf shot counters
I need to do some searching on dual Rx setups. There has to be a way to "OR" the 2 receivers together on the ignition cut-off so if either Rx is working, the ignition is working. I'm thinking "OR" gate of maybe just simple diodes off each Rx and tied to the optical ignition cut-off???? Someone must have solved this already.....
any one???
Gator
edit BTW "OR" means if you have 2 inputs, if either one "or" the other inputs in on, the output will be on.
If you have a Smart-Fly Optic cut off just plug one lead into each RX. Then if you loose one it won't kill the motor.
Gator