Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Dave,
Looks Great, good info on the hinging!
I took some time off today and picked mine up (Ylw/Blk) as I only live 2hrs away. After missing out on the original I was determined to get one of these, unfortunately I'm so busy with our business' at the moment I won't get much time to play with it for a while.
Saw both the Ylw/Blk and the Wht/Red ones Chris has finished in the shop. WOW! These things are Huge, until you see one you won't believe it, it truely looks like a 33-35% plane. Both planes are absolutely beautiful. I think The Wht/Red looks alot nicer in Person and the Ylw/Blk is awesome.
I'm starting off with a DA-50 on mine and will go from there
I need to get out and do some flying before flying something this nice, nothing like showing up with something like this and not being able to fly it like it should be flown! My screen name should be 3D wannabe Aviator.
If anybody reading this is on the fence about getting one of these I would call and get one ordered before you miss out.
Looks Great, good info on the hinging!
I took some time off today and picked mine up (Ylw/Blk) as I only live 2hrs away. After missing out on the original I was determined to get one of these, unfortunately I'm so busy with our business' at the moment I won't get much time to play with it for a while.
Saw both the Ylw/Blk and the Wht/Red ones Chris has finished in the shop. WOW! These things are Huge, until you see one you won't believe it, it truely looks like a 33-35% plane. Both planes are absolutely beautiful. I think The Wht/Red looks alot nicer in Person and the Ylw/Blk is awesome.
I'm starting off with a DA-50 on mine and will go from there
I need to get out and do some flying before flying something this nice, nothing like showing up with something like this and not being able to fly it like it should be flown! My screen name should be 3D wannabe Aviator.
If anybody reading this is on the fence about getting one of these I would call and get one ordered before you miss out.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Those look real nice, Are they dimensionally about the same? Where did you get them?
ORIGINAL: jrjohn
Here is the gear that will be on my 88" Yak. 6.6 OZ and without a doubt the best built, most stock looking gear I have ever seen. It's even airfoiled. They ain't cheap! Mine will be painted white as I'm getting the red and white plane. I suppose you guys with the black planes would just leave it black
john
ORIGINAL: Maudib
The stock gear is painted aluminum... looks nice... weighs 12.65 oz
JR John is looking into finding some REALLY light CF gear... but he's not sure it will work yet...
I did happen to have a set of CF gear from Graphtech RC that I got for a 102" Quique Yak...
Guess what? It's almost IDENTICAL in size and shape!
Guess that tells ya how BIG and sclae this bad boy is 88" having 102" gear
THe GRaphtec gear are 10.6 oz so there's only a 2 oz savings... I suppose they don't have to be that "thick" because they are holding up an 18.5 lb plane (max) while the QQ 102 is like 25-26 lbs...
The stock gear is painted aluminum... looks nice... weighs 12.65 oz
JR John is looking into finding some REALLY light CF gear... but he's not sure it will work yet...
I did happen to have a set of CF gear from Graphtech RC that I got for a 102" Quique Yak...
Guess what? It's almost IDENTICAL in size and shape!
Guess that tells ya how BIG and sclae this bad boy is 88" having 102" gear
THe GRaphtec gear are 10.6 oz so there's only a 2 oz savings... I suppose they don't have to be that "thick" because they are holding up an 18.5 lb plane (max) while the QQ 102 is like 25-26 lbs...
john
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: 3daviator
Those look real nice, Are they dimensionally about the same? Where did you get them?
Those look real nice, Are they dimensionally about the same? Where did you get them?
ORIGINAL: jrjohn
Here is the gear that will be on my 88" Yak. 6.6 OZ and without a doubt the best built, most stock looking gear I have ever seen. It's even airfoiled. They ain't cheap! Mine will be painted white as I'm getting the red and white plane. I suppose you guys with the black planes would just leave it black
john
ORIGINAL: Maudib
The stock gear is painted aluminum... looks nice... weighs 12.65 oz
JR John is looking into finding some REALLY light CF gear... but he's not sure it will work yet...
I did happen to have a set of CF gear from Graphtech RC that I got for a 102" Quique Yak...
Guess what? It's almost IDENTICAL in size and shape!
Guess that tells ya how BIG and sclae this bad boy is 88" having 102" gear
THe GRaphtec gear are 10.6 oz so there's only a 2 oz savings... I suppose they don't have to be that "thick" because they are holding up an 18.5 lb plane (max) while the QQ 102 is like 25-26 lbs...
The stock gear is painted aluminum... looks nice... weighs 12.65 oz
JR John is looking into finding some REALLY light CF gear... but he's not sure it will work yet...
I did happen to have a set of CF gear from Graphtech RC that I got for a 102" Quique Yak...
Guess what? It's almost IDENTICAL in size and shape!
Guess that tells ya how BIG and sclae this bad boy is 88" having 102" gear
THe GRaphtec gear are 10.6 oz so there's only a 2 oz savings... I suppose they don't have to be that "thick" because they are holding up an 18.5 lb plane (max) while the QQ 102 is like 25-26 lbs...
john
JMHO
John
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
These built in tab are NICE for installing the tank... I have that double sided velcro... just slide it through both tabsset the tank in place, apply stickyback loop to the top of the tank and strap it down. THe double sided velcro grabs the loop on the tank AND itself... and along with the 1/2" foam pad CA'd to the bottom of the tank, created a nice, soft mounted but secure tank... Love the little amenities this design has...
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: jrjohn
john
[/quote]
Here is John's LG on the 33% Yak. It is a plane I put together for my brother. The gear look nice but most importantly fly nice. For example on takeoff roll they will give slightly on rough grass with most of the give in the lower 1/3 of the gear. They kind of behave like a full size LG giving where they are supposed to. To date they have about 30 Take off and Landings and seem long time sturdy. I cannot attest to how they will hold up on a 12 foot harrier landing though![X(]
Status: Red White Black and Silver In Transit - On Time
Your package is on time with a scheduled delivery date of 02/23/2007
Woo hooo!!
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Well, there is 6ozs to lose if you need it to lose it badly enough. After I get used to setting her down nice and easy like the 87"....this is an option.
You say the gear is like a CF Prop. Do you think it is hollow and foam filled? It is a weave, and not just CF tow laminated?
Can't wait to see the cowl blacked out ,David.
I use the Smartfly Opti-Kill ...and usually stick the LED in the cowl or on the crank housing, so I can look in the cowl and see if the ignition is on....
This way when you or someone else comes to finger and play with the prop ....the LED is in your face telling you..GO or NO. I had one on the side of the plane and the sunlight would often make it hard to see if it was on or off.
If I was using the louvre's it would be mounted in them .
How do the spats attach?? I see two little holes in the SD gear??? Same on the EF?? Or do they get attached with the axle bolt??
You say the gear is like a CF Prop. Do you think it is hollow and foam filled? It is a weave, and not just CF tow laminated?
Can't wait to see the cowl blacked out ,David.
I use the Smartfly Opti-Kill ...and usually stick the LED in the cowl or on the crank housing, so I can look in the cowl and see if the ignition is on....
This way when you or someone else comes to finger and play with the prop ....the LED is in your face telling you..GO or NO. I had one on the side of the plane and the sunlight would often make it hard to see if it was on or off.
If I was using the louvre's it would be mounted in them .
How do the spats attach?? I see two little holes in the SD gear??? Same on the EF?? Or do they get attached with the axle bolt??
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Yep... that gear is an option if I decide later to "go all out"... but for now... let's just see what the weight comes in at...
I use the SF Ign. Kill too... sweet otem for ANY gas plane and as far as I'm concerend a MUST for all of mine.
Maybe we oughtta get some of those geek lights... tee hee.. you know the colored fans and lights they use in computers? We can get one for the cowl, one for the hatch and a couple for under the plane... so it has "ground effetcs" Too Funny!
You drill a hole for the axle and then 4/40 bscrews/blindnuts hold it in place... They are REALLY nice and after I get some stick time behind me they WILL go on... just too sweet looking and unusual.
I use the SF Ign. Kill too... sweet otem for ANY gas plane and as far as I'm concerend a MUST for all of mine.
Maybe we oughtta get some of those geek lights... tee hee.. you know the colored fans and lights they use in computers? We can get one for the cowl, one for the hatch and a couple for under the plane... so it has "ground effetcs" Too Funny!
You drill a hole for the axle and then 4/40 bscrews/blindnuts hold it in place... They are REALLY nice and after I get some stick time behind me they WILL go on... just too sweet looking and unusual.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
One note... extensions needed are:
2 X 36" for the elevators ( I think we MIGHT have thought 24" but the tail is considerably longer and 24" only gets yo to under the rudder servo... Another 12" is needed to get you up where you need to be
2 x 12" for ailerons... this gives you 9" of lead coming out the wing... and plenty to reach to the receiver... which I'm thinking will be right behind the wingtube...
You COULD use 4 X 6" extensions two on the aileron leads coming out the wing about 3" and then two ont he receiver so you won't be plugging in and out of the receiver on assembly/disassembly...
If you install the throttle servo in the stock location (in the engine box) it is a total of 12" to behind the wingtube... so a 6" extension MIGHT be needed there depending on how long your servo of choise stock lead is...
I MIGHT install my throtte servo further back with a nyrod and therefore not need one.
The 12" lead on the HiTec HS-5955 i have for rudder is the perfect length to reach from the rudder servo tray to the receiver withno extensions.
2 X 36" for the elevators ( I think we MIGHT have thought 24" but the tail is considerably longer and 24" only gets yo to under the rudder servo... Another 12" is needed to get you up where you need to be
2 x 12" for ailerons... this gives you 9" of lead coming out the wing... and plenty to reach to the receiver... which I'm thinking will be right behind the wingtube...
You COULD use 4 X 6" extensions two on the aileron leads coming out the wing about 3" and then two ont he receiver so you won't be plugging in and out of the receiver on assembly/disassembly...
If you install the throttle servo in the stock location (in the engine box) it is a total of 12" to behind the wingtube... so a 6" extension MIGHT be needed there depending on how long your servo of choise stock lead is...
I MIGHT install my throtte servo further back with a nyrod and therefore not need one.
The 12" lead on the HiTec HS-5955 i have for rudder is the perfect length to reach from the rudder servo tray to the receiver withno extensions.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Well After a short 6 hour nap... (tee hee I cheated) I got up at 7 and took an hour to wake up and drink a pot of coffee...
All the surfaces were hinged last might and I already removed the covering from the slots in all the surfaces for the control horns.
I started again at 8am and attached the tailwheel and gear.
There are blindnuts already installed for the tailwheel... just put some threadlocker on the screws and screw 'em in....
Make sure to remove the set screws on the tailwheel and apply some thread locker.... do NOT overtighten them as the collars are aluminum and just need a good "snuggin'" I ground a flat on the wire for the tailwheel collar and installed the wheel and collar. The steering wire needs bent a little to get down to the rudder bottom.
The gear is then aligned on the fuse (I spaced it about 1/8 in back from the front edge of the gear slot and simply eyeballed it so that the bends of the gear were identical on both sides...
DO NOT MEASURE the gear holes and transfer them that way! This is the reason Chris has us drill the plates... on my gear the holes were not exactly centered i the top of the plate.... if I went by the measurements my gear would be off to one side by maybe 1/4".
Lay the gear into place, eyeball it's center and MARK the holes onto the gearplate... then drill.
It's a little sneaky getting the bolts/washer and gear together after that.
I placed a washer on each bolt and the a tiny drop of CA between the washer and head to keep the washer from falling off when I snaked it down through the gear plate.
A pair of needlenose pliers hold the screw while you push it down through the gearplate.
I then placed the fuse on it's side near the edge of the table and used a ruler to kind of hold the bolts in place while I carefully slipped the gear over them... I worked on the top two first and once I had the gear over them I used the gear to apply a little "side" pressure to the screws until I could get a washer and lock nut started.
Once I had the top two started I got the bottom two... then simply tightened them up.
All the surfaces were hinged last might and I already removed the covering from the slots in all the surfaces for the control horns.
I started again at 8am and attached the tailwheel and gear.
There are blindnuts already installed for the tailwheel... just put some threadlocker on the screws and screw 'em in....
Make sure to remove the set screws on the tailwheel and apply some thread locker.... do NOT overtighten them as the collars are aluminum and just need a good "snuggin'" I ground a flat on the wire for the tailwheel collar and installed the wheel and collar. The steering wire needs bent a little to get down to the rudder bottom.
The gear is then aligned on the fuse (I spaced it about 1/8 in back from the front edge of the gear slot and simply eyeballed it so that the bends of the gear were identical on both sides...
DO NOT MEASURE the gear holes and transfer them that way! This is the reason Chris has us drill the plates... on my gear the holes were not exactly centered i the top of the plate.... if I went by the measurements my gear would be off to one side by maybe 1/4".
Lay the gear into place, eyeball it's center and MARK the holes onto the gearplate... then drill.
It's a little sneaky getting the bolts/washer and gear together after that.
I placed a washer on each bolt and the a tiny drop of CA between the washer and head to keep the washer from falling off when I snaked it down through the gear plate.
A pair of needlenose pliers hold the screw while you push it down through the gearplate.
I then placed the fuse on it's side near the edge of the table and used a ruler to kind of hold the bolts in place while I carefully slipped the gear over them... I worked on the top two first and once I had the gear over them I used the gear to apply a little "side" pressure to the screws until I could get a washer and lock nut started.
Once I had the top two started I got the bottom two... then simply tightened them up.
#88
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Maudib
Yep... that gear is an option if I decide later to "go all out"... but for now... let's just see what the weight comes in at...
I use the SF Ign. Kill too... sweet otem for ANY gas plane and as far as I'm concerend a MUST for all of mine.
Maybe we oughtta get some of those geek lights... tee hee.. you know the colored fans and lights they use in computers? We can get one for the cowl, one for the hatch and a couple for under the plane... so it has "ground effetcs" Too Funny!
You drill a hole for the axle and then 4/40 bscrews/blindnuts hold it in place... They are REALLY nice and after I get some stick time behind me they WILL go on... just too sweet looking and unusual.
Yep... that gear is an option if I decide later to "go all out"... but for now... let's just see what the weight comes in at...
I use the SF Ign. Kill too... sweet otem for ANY gas plane and as far as I'm concerend a MUST for all of mine.
Maybe we oughtta get some of those geek lights... tee hee.. you know the colored fans and lights they use in computers? We can get one for the cowl, one for the hatch and a couple for under the plane... so it has "ground effetcs" Too Funny!
You drill a hole for the axle and then 4/40 bscrews/blindnuts hold it in place... They are REALLY nice and after I get some stick time behind me they WILL go on... just too sweet looking and unusual.
John
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Approx. 6.25" is what we've been told... That's what I have mt B60 set at.. .but not until I mount the cowl will I know where I stand there... looks about right though...
ORIGINAL: Edge
I may have missed it, but what is the target distance from firewall to prop hub, I will be using the evo 58.
I may have missed it, but what is the target distance from firewall to prop hub, I will be using the evo 58.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: rdb127
Here is the gear that will be on my 88" Yak. 6.6 OZ and without a doubt the best built, most stock looking gear I have ever seen. It's even airfoiled. They ain't cheap! Mine will be painted white as I'm getting the red and white plane. I suppose you guys with the black planes would just leave it black
john
ORIGINAL: jrjohn
john
Status: Red White Black and Silver In Transit - On Time
Your package is on time with a scheduled delivery date of 02/23/2007
Woo hooo!!
is that the sd models orange one? that gear does look nice!!
[/quote]
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Hi Diamond Dave,
I bought it as a Aviation Models 33% Yak. I guess the ones sold today by SD is the same.
The LG are sharp for sure! Will look gooooood on my EF -88.
Richard
I bought it as a Aviation Models 33% Yak. I guess the ones sold today by SD is the same.
The LG are sharp for sure! Will look gooooood on my EF -88.
Richard
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Well the control horns are installed... I love these double truss horns... easy to install, light and very strong.
I lightly sanded and then wiped with rubbing alcohol the tabs that insert into the slots to ensure a good bond.
Both sides of the little coverplate also get a light sanding... I might paint the cover plates with a small brush later... btu they look great as is...
I did have to trim a LITTLE bit off the fron edges of the plates on the rudder and elevator plates as they stuck out a little past the bevel... just a pair of scissors to trim them about 1/16".
You can also see here where I opened the servo bays and elevator servo arm slot and ironed the covering inside...
I lightly sanded and then wiped with rubbing alcohol the tabs that insert into the slots to ensure a good bond.
Both sides of the little coverplate also get a light sanding... I might paint the cover plates with a small brush later... btu they look great as is...
I did have to trim a LITTLE bit off the fron edges of the plates on the rudder and elevator plates as they stuck out a little past the bevel... just a pair of scissors to trim them about 1/16".
You can also see here where I opened the servo bays and elevator servo arm slot and ironed the covering inside...
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
I also opened the wing openings and the stab places... tube hole, alignment pin hole, servo lead access and two stab mounting screw holes... I used a cheap soldering iron to melt the covering away form the tail openings... but cut the wing material about 1/4" inside the opening and ironed it into the wingslot...
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Bosshossv8
Well, there is 6ozs to lose if you need it to lose it badly enough. After I get used to setting her down nice and easy like the 87"....this is an option.
You say the gear is like a CF Prop. Do you think it is hollow and foam filled? It is a weave, and not just CF tow laminated?
Can't wait to see the cowl blacked out ,David.
I use the Smartfly Opti-Kill ...and usually stick the LED in the cowl or on the crank housing, so I can look in the cowl and see if the ignition is on....
This way when you or someone else comes to finger and play with the prop ....the LED is in your face telling you..GO or NO. I had one on the side of the plane and the sunlight would often make it hard to see if it was on or off.
If I was using the louvre's it would be mounted in them .
How do the spats attach?? I see two little holes in the SD gear??? Same on the EF?? Or do they get attached with the axle bolt??
Well, there is 6ozs to lose if you need it to lose it badly enough. After I get used to setting her down nice and easy like the 87"....this is an option.
You say the gear is like a CF Prop. Do you think it is hollow and foam filled? It is a weave, and not just CF tow laminated?
Can't wait to see the cowl blacked out ,David.
I use the Smartfly Opti-Kill ...and usually stick the LED in the cowl or on the crank housing, so I can look in the cowl and see if the ignition is on....
This way when you or someone else comes to finger and play with the prop ....the LED is in your face telling you..GO or NO. I had one on the side of the plane and the sunlight would often make it hard to see if it was on or off.
If I was using the louvre's it would be mounted in them .
How do the spats attach?? I see two little holes in the SD gear??? Same on the EF?? Or do they get attached with the axle bolt??
The landing gear is a hot-press procedure made in a mold. This Hot-press procedure brings high strength to the product. They use Carbon woven fabric prepreg material that reduces the weight of gear. Of course, it's much more expensive to produce. I believe this is the same procedure used in making CF props
the other guys are using a hand layed procedure, this process uses lots of heavy epoxy. The end product is weak and heavy. The shape is simular to an alluminum gear because it's not made in a mold
john
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
So far only one little minor error have I found... the silver stripe on the cowl is 3/4" thick and the trim stripe on the fuse is 1/2"
Chris has been made aware and he's making sure future shipments will be gotten right.
WHen I put together the graphics packages... I will include the necessary 3/4" silver Ultracote stripes... simply peel the 1/2" off and replace with the 3/4"... easy peasy!
I will also include the yellow Ultracote strips to seal the hinges with. (Better get it ordered huh?)
Chris has been made aware and he's making sure future shipments will be gotten right.
WHen I put together the graphics packages... I will include the necessary 3/4" silver Ultracote stripes... simply peel the 1/2" off and replace with the 3/4"... easy peasy!
I will also include the yellow Ultracote strips to seal the hinges with. (Better get it ordered huh?)
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
I probably will use them... just not at first... I almost NEVER put my wheel pants on for the first few flights... especially in the early season when the field is rougher and "grabbier"
WHat you SHOULD do is order a set from Extreme Flight for $649.95... and I bet you can get him to throw in the rest of the Yak for FREE!
Seriously though... nice kit... there's so many great planes out there now it's a candy store...
WHat you SHOULD do is order a set from Extreme Flight for $649.95... and I bet you can get him to throw in the rest of the Yak for FREE!
Seriously though... nice kit... there's so many great planes out there now it's a candy store...
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Time to install the servos...
The elevator trays inside the stabs have a slot for the servo lead to come back up through... mine were a little tight si I opened them up JUST a little witha rattail file... I actually just chucked it in a drill and let the drill do the work...
The servo is then laid in place, screw holes piloted with a Great Planes Dead Center guage and screws installed.
They are then removed and the servo too... and the holes hardened with CA... once cured... the servo is replaced.
The kit comes with very nice balllinks... BUT the screws supplied with them are 3mm... if you want to use them on the SWB arms, you will need to drill out the 4/40 hole.
OR if you have some DuBro HD or Rocket City Ballinks handy you can use them on the servo arm side and use the supplied balllinks on the control horn side... that eliminates needing to drill out the SWB servo arms.
BEfore you attach either end... go ahead and screw on the balllinks on each end... leave only about 1/16" thread showing and this will get you REAL close to neutral... then only a few turns will be needed for final adjusting.
The elevator trays inside the stabs have a slot for the servo lead to come back up through... mine were a little tight si I opened them up JUST a little witha rattail file... I actually just chucked it in a drill and let the drill do the work...
The servo is then laid in place, screw holes piloted with a Great Planes Dead Center guage and screws installed.
They are then removed and the servo too... and the holes hardened with CA... once cured... the servo is replaced.
The kit comes with very nice balllinks... BUT the screws supplied with them are 3mm... if you want to use them on the SWB arms, you will need to drill out the 4/40 hole.
OR if you have some DuBro HD or Rocket City Ballinks handy you can use them on the servo arm side and use the supplied balllinks on the control horn side... that eliminates needing to drill out the SWB servo arms.
BEfore you attach either end... go ahead and screw on the balllinks on each end... leave only about 1/16" thread showing and this will get you REAL close to neutral... then only a few turns will be needed for final adjusting.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
The manual mentions maybe having to relieve the slot for maximum throw...
As it is... the throw stops at about 55 degrees down and 48 degrees up. Since I won't use more than 48 degrees this is fine for me... no enlarging of the slot for me!
As it is... the throw stops at about 55 degrees down and 48 degrees up. Since I won't use more than 48 degrees this is fine for me... no enlarging of the slot for me!