Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
For the fuel dot I located a spot on the right side of the plane (my preferd side for filling, tuning one and starting) I located it at the top of the silver stripe (knowing I'll be replacing it with a thicker one... tee hee) and just ahead of the wing socket.
A 1/32 aircraft ply plate was cut and epoxied inside the sheeting for a firm mounting location.
A 1/32 aircraft ply plate was cut and epoxied inside the sheeting for a firm mounting location.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
The tank is a 3 line system... and I needed to now plumb it up... I looped the vent down and under the tank, back and up behind and back over the tank... hook svelcro strips were used to secure the lime to the existing tank straps. This loop will help prevent losing fuel from tank when tilting it or in the air.
The other two lines go to the carb and fuel dot respectively.
A 2 line system is fine too... I use them from time to time... just make sure to occasionally cut off 1/4" of the line that goes to the fuel dot to insure a good seal... on a 2 line system with "T fitting" a leaky fuel dot can lean the engine or even cause a deadstick...
The other two lines go to the carb and fuel dot respectively.
A 2 line system is fine too... I use them from time to time... just make sure to occasionally cut off 1/4" of the line that goes to the fuel dot to insure a good seal... on a 2 line system with "T fitting" a leaky fuel dot can lean the engine or even cause a deadstick...
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Now the ignition...
The Roy Scholl is a round can about the same size as a snuff can. I cut a disc of 1/2" foam and double stick taped it to the bottom.
I then measured and dremeled two slots in the engine box sode for a double sided velcro strap.
A strip of sticky back loop velcro is put on top of the ignition can.
The pad is glued tot eh engine box side with thick CA and the strap wraps around and engaes the velcro on the ignition.
Are you starting to see a mountign patter with my stuff? I REALLY like this method and will soon install most everything this way. It's lighter than you think, VERY secure and offers a good deal of vibration protection.
The Roy Scholl is a round can about the same size as a snuff can. I cut a disc of 1/2" foam and double stick taped it to the bottom.
I then measured and dremeled two slots in the engine box sode for a double sided velcro strap.
A strip of sticky back loop velcro is put on top of the ignition can.
The pad is glued tot eh engine box side with thick CA and the strap wraps around and engaes the velcro on the ignition.
Are you starting to see a mountign patter with my stuff? I REALLY like this method and will soon install most everything this way. It's lighter than you think, VERY secure and offers a good deal of vibration protection.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Thanks EA...
O.K. Now the Smar-Fly Optical Ignition Kill Switch
http://www.smart-fly.com/Products/Ignition/ignition.htm
I won't build a gasser without one... Allows you to cut the engine imediately from the transmitter.
I epoxied a 1/16" ply plate behind the wingtube abd near the top of the hatch and velcroed the F.O. transmitter here... it get's attached to the receiver via the "Gear" channel... FLip it one way, the ignition is live and the engine can start... fli pit the other way and it kills the juice to the receiver immediately.
The blue connector is where the fiebr optic cabel is connected... bascially light travels through the line to the F.O. receiver... if it sees the light... then it's hot... if ot doesn't... then it's off.
Why FIber Optic? Because you shouldn't connect the ignition electrical system to you radio system as RF can be directly fed through the wires... fiber optic eliminates that problem....
Is that necessary with the bew DX7 and it's Spread Spektrum? I really don't know... but I still liek the other features.
O.K. Now the Smar-Fly Optical Ignition Kill Switch
http://www.smart-fly.com/Products/Ignition/ignition.htm
I won't build a gasser without one... Allows you to cut the engine imediately from the transmitter.
I epoxied a 1/16" ply plate behind the wingtube abd near the top of the hatch and velcroed the F.O. transmitter here... it get's attached to the receiver via the "Gear" channel... FLip it one way, the ignition is live and the engine can start... fli pit the other way and it kills the juice to the receiver immediately.
The blue connector is where the fiebr optic cabel is connected... bascially light travels through the line to the F.O. receiver... if it sees the light... then it's hot... if ot doesn't... then it's off.
Why FIber Optic? Because you shouldn't connect the ignition electrical system to you radio system as RF can be directly fed through the wires... fiber optic eliminates that problem....
Is that necessary with the bew DX7 and it's Spread Spektrum? I really don't know... but I still liek the other features.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Now the other end... the F.O. Receiver...
It just gets velcroed to the inside of the engine box... note the wire going through the firewall? That's an LED... when the ignition is HOT and ready to start... it lights up... so a quick look into the cowl says "GO".
The other wire on the same side goes to and provides power to the ignition.
The black connector on the right is the F.O. connector and cable from the F.O. transmitter and the wire below it is goes to the switch and from there the ignition battery.
So you can always manually turn on and off the ignition with the external switch.
These are about $60... and again... this would be the LAST "optional item" I gave up...
It just gets velcroed to the inside of the engine box... note the wire going through the firewall? That's an LED... when the ignition is HOT and ready to start... it lights up... so a quick look into the cowl says "GO".
The other wire on the same side goes to and provides power to the ignition.
The black connector on the right is the F.O. connector and cable from the F.O. transmitter and the wire below it is goes to the switch and from there the ignition battery.
So you can always manually turn on and off the ignition with the external switch.
These are about $60... and again... this would be the LAST "optional item" I gave up...
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
David..I like the idea of mounting the LED on the firewall...any worries about vibration there ? I usually mount it on the side of the fuse but I like your idea better..
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
I used one of the DuBro switch mounts that allows you to install a standard switch inside the plane, but only have a little pull slide on the outside... it's just clean and easy to install.
I glued another 1/32" ply plate to the balsa sheeting beside the fuel dot and install it.
Again, I like to put all my access items on one side... that way I can walk up, fuel the plane, set the can aside, turn on the receiver (it's switch will be back near the trailing edge of the wing) then turn on the ignition... walk to the front and start 'er up.
I glued another 1/32" ply plate to the balsa sheeting beside the fuel dot and install it.
Again, I like to put all my access items on one side... that way I can walk up, fuel the plane, set the can aside, turn on the receiver (it's switch will be back near the trailing edge of the wing) then turn on the ignition... walk to the front and start 'er up.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
I've done a many that way with no ill effects... I've doen it this way and also just wrapped the led in a "foam tube" and velcroed it to the standoff...
I'm withyou though... I like to look in the cowl and know if I'm hot or not...
I'm withyou though... I like to look in the cowl and know if I'm hot or not...
ORIGINAL: Josey Wales
David..I like the idea of mounting the LED on the firewall...any worries about vibration there ? I usually mount it on the side of the fuse but I like your idea better..
David..I like the idea of mounting the LED on the firewall...any worries about vibration there ? I usually mount it on the side of the fuse but I like your idea better..
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Maudib
Now the ignition...
The Roy Scholl is a round can about the same size as a snuff can. I cut a disc of 1/2" foam and double stick taped it to the bottom.
I then measured and dremeled two slots in the engine box sode for a double sided velcro strap.
A strip of sticky back loop velcro is put on top of the ignition can.
The pad is glued tot eh engine box side with thick CA and the strap wraps around and engaes the velcro on the ignition.
Are you starting to see a mountign patter with my stuff? I REALLY like this method and will soon install most everything this way. It's lighter than you think, VERY secure and offers a good deal of vibration protection.
Now the ignition...
The Roy Scholl is a round can about the same size as a snuff can. I cut a disc of 1/2" foam and double stick taped it to the bottom.
I then measured and dremeled two slots in the engine box sode for a double sided velcro strap.
A strip of sticky back loop velcro is put on top of the ignition can.
The pad is glued tot eh engine box side with thick CA and the strap wraps around and engaes the velcro on the ignition.
Are you starting to see a mountign patter with my stuff? I REALLY like this method and will soon install most everything this way. It's lighter than you think, VERY secure and offers a good deal of vibration protection.
I've been looking for my shoe polish can, I just found it.
Keep the photos coming.
My Red/White one will be here middle of March.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Time to install the rudder tray... You need to center the tray in the fuse... btu how do you measure it?
A quick tip... take two sticks that are shrter than the fuse width and "spread theem across" the opening... then measure the spread.
In this case the fuse is 6.25" between the inner most plates... so you can mark 3 1/8" in on ONE stick and use it to measure... to double check yourself flip the stick over and measure from the other side... the mark should be the same.
I then eopxied the tray in place using 30 minute epoxy... don't use 5 minute as it's not as strong... why? The longer epoxy takes to cure, the deeper it penetrates the surfaces it's gluing. 30 minute epoxy gets 6 times the amount of time to penetrate the wood.
A quick tip... take two sticks that are shrter than the fuse width and "spread theem across" the opening... then measure the spread.
In this case the fuse is 6.25" between the inner most plates... so you can mark 3 1/8" in on ONE stick and use it to measure... to double check yourself flip the stick over and measure from the other side... the mark should be the same.
I then eopxied the tray in place using 30 minute epoxy... don't use 5 minute as it's not as strong... why? The longer epoxy takes to cure, the deeper it penetrates the surfaces it's gluing. 30 minute epoxy gets 6 times the amount of time to penetrate the wood.
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: cadconversions
Me too, except Yellow and Black! The only thing that might be a little trouble for me to get ahold of is the 4" SWB offset arm. I've got one ordered, but it shipped today 2nd day so it won't make it here in time for this weekend. Hopefully, it will be in Bowling Green at the terminal and I can go pick it up. I've also got the PMP Titanium axles coming as well.
ORIGINAL: rdb127
Your package is on time with a scheduled delivery date of 02/23/2007
Woo hooo!!
Your package is on time with a scheduled delivery date of 02/23/2007
Woo hooo!!
Me too, except Yellow and Black! The only thing that might be a little trouble for me to get ahold of is the 4" SWB offset arm. I've got one ordered, but it shipped today 2nd day so it won't make it here in time for this weekend. Hopefully, it will be in Bowling Green at the terminal and I can go pick it up. I've also got the PMP Titanium axles coming as well.
John
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: jrjohn
Are you sure it's a 4'' offset arm and not 3''? On the orig. EF Yak we used a 3'' offset arm
John
Are you sure it's a 4'' offset arm and not 3''? On the orig. EF Yak we used a 3'' offset arm
John
#141
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
ORIGINAL: Josey Wales
Yes Chris verified that on the original 88" thread.....post #220[8D]
ORIGINAL: jrjohn
Are you sure it's a 4'' offset arm and not 3''? On the orig. EF Yak we used a 3'' offset arm
John
Are you sure it's a 4'' offset arm and not 3''? On the orig. EF Yak we used a 3'' offset arm
John
thanks for the ruling
John
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Yep... it is monstrously large... and I'll soon know the weight...
So far I've got 18 "on and off" hours into the build. A fella could pretty much build one on a a good weekend. I think mine would have been done excpet UPS decided to deliver my plane at 5pm instead of the normal 10am... (sometimes I think they got "mess with 'em ESP"
I need to finish the pull-pull, install the throttle servo, battery and reg and mount the cowl... (plus probably about a half dozein little thing s we forge about)
So far I've got 18 "on and off" hours into the build. A fella could pretty much build one on a a good weekend. I think mine would have been done excpet UPS decided to deliver my plane at 5pm instead of the normal 10am... (sometimes I think they got "mess with 'em ESP"
I need to finish the pull-pull, install the throttle servo, battery and reg and mount the cowl... (plus probably about a half dozein little thing s we forge about)
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
He's going to zap me with his Big satellite lazer beam for giving away his TRUE identity, but he is really Howard Hughs e-mailing from his secret volcano lair in MT. FUJI-ARF! LOL!!!
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
LOL... I need a Spruce Goose to store all these planes in!
I'm self employed and work from home... and sleep is HIGHLY overrated... plenty of time for that in heaven...
I happened to have a little servo tray from somethig and decided to trim it to fit underneat the exiisting tray... doesn't really need it but it geives me a littel more meat to screw in...
Here's the rudder servo install... using the SWB 4" offset arm... also in the pic you can see how I am managing the wires from the tail... my good friend Velcro again... A strip of loop on the tunnel and a double sided strip on top of the leads... this will help reduce stress onthe connectors to the receiver... when I install my wings, I'll be able to latch them underneath as well....
I'm self employed and work from home... and sleep is HIGHLY overrated... plenty of time for that in heaven...
I happened to have a little servo tray from somethig and decided to trim it to fit underneat the exiisting tray... doesn't really need it but it geives me a littel more meat to screw in...
Here's the rudder servo install... using the SWB 4" offset arm... also in the pic you can see how I am managing the wires from the tail... my good friend Velcro again... A strip of loop on the tunnel and a double sided strip on top of the leads... this will help reduce stress onthe connectors to the receiver... when I install my wings, I'll be able to latch them underneath as well....
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Hey David.
What battery will you use for the Rx ?
I am thinking of going 2 Cell LiPo without regulator.
I believe that the AR7000 Rx and the Hitec 5995 can handle that voltage.
The only thing is that the throttle servo will have to be a 5995 too
Get some sleep before the maiden [8D]
What battery will you use for the Rx ?
I am thinking of going 2 Cell LiPo without regulator.
I believe that the AR7000 Rx and the Hitec 5995 can handle that voltage.
The only thing is that the throttle servo will have to be a 5995 too
Get some sleep before the maiden [8D]
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Still on the fence there...
I actually ran out of 5955's and have 5945's on the ailerons and elevators... and a 5955 on the rudder.
The 2 cell lipos (2100 or so) are 4 oz... so for 2 more oz I can use the 4800 lions (which I already have)
THe AR7000 will indeed work with 2 cell lipos (already tested that) and it works great... Someone needs to come up with an extension with built in resistor to run a throttle servo on 7.4 volts... Or better yet... bring us a whole sleu of 7.4 compatible servos...
I'm OUT OF REGS! I wnet to grab one and put in... and the cupboard was bare... dagnab it!
So I'll order some today from Troy Built.
I still want to finish it all up today and geta weight...
I actually ran out of 5955's and have 5945's on the ailerons and elevators... and a 5955 on the rudder.
The 2 cell lipos (2100 or so) are 4 oz... so for 2 more oz I can use the 4800 lions (which I already have)
THe AR7000 will indeed work with 2 cell lipos (already tested that) and it works great... Someone needs to come up with an extension with built in resistor to run a throttle servo on 7.4 volts... Or better yet... bring us a whole sleu of 7.4 compatible servos...
I'm OUT OF REGS! I wnet to grab one and put in... and the cupboard was bare... dagnab it!
So I'll order some today from Troy Built.
I still want to finish it all up today and geta weight...
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RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Hum, I've got a reg from MPI that has servo plugs on each end... Wait, the wife just shouted that UPS is here. I've got to get the door!!!!!! I'll be back in a minute to finish my thoughts