camss69

My Feedback: (46)

I just got this plane and I'm in the middle of getting everything together for it but I have a couple questions for the Comp-Arf experts.

I plan on running two servos on the rudder both JR 8711's I can't seem to find servo arms big enough to match the stock phenolic servo arms that come with the kit, what is everyone else using? I would guess they are the same as on the other 2.6m comp-arf planes.

I need to mill out the slots for the phenolic arms in the control surfaces, what is the best tool to use for doing this? It says to use a file or a dremel tool, what is a good dremel attachment to use for this?

I ordered 4" tires for it, they came today and are too small, the manual says 4.5 to 5" tires, what works best? I'm going to have to send these back, I measured the pants and it looks like 5" might be too big? I was thinking about getting the 5" sullivan's with the aluminum hubs, anyone know if they fit and work well?

I ended up with a DA100 for this plane, does anyone know if the compact mufflers are required to clear the cowl or will the standard mufflers work?

If others are interested in making this a build thread feel free to jump in with other questions/answers/pics!

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

I'm not a C-Arf expert yet, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night . I'm very interested in following this thread and look forward to it. I own the 2.3 and will be soon assembling the 3.0M Extra 260.

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

I think the arms come already installed on the 3.0 version, did you have to fit the arms in the 2.3?

rcblimppro

For the rudder, use a SWB 3" full arm on the front servo and a 4" offset on the rear. The holes will line up for the rods to link them together and the pull pull cables will go to the outside on the offset arm. Make sure you install the rudder control horns so that the center of the ball link is in line with the hinge pin. Cross the cables and with this setup the cables will remain tight throughout full travel.


For millimg the slots, I use a Dremel HSS cutter that is ball tipped. your local OSH should have it.

The 5" sullivan wheel is going to be too heavy. Go with 4.5" Kavans or H9 pro lites. Use Dubro 3/16" axles. attach the wheel pants with two 4-40 screws and blind nuts just above the axle.

Get the compact mufflers, the 3M version needs them so the odds are the 2.6 will also.


Mount all the components as far forward as you can. The 3M is difficult to balance and I have a feeling the 2.6 will be the same.


Shawn

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

Thanks Shawn,

Just got finished mounting my first RCBlimp Tailwheel, that thing rocks..

I'm going to order the rest of the stuff tonight.

rcblimppro

Any more questions just ask. I'm only 2 hrs away so if you ever want to came and peek into my 3M 260 you are welcome to do so.

Shawn

Hammbone

My Feedback: (309)

If Comp-Arrf did the same thing with the 260 that they do on other planes, they have one size wheel pants for the 2.6M and 3.0M 260. The wheel pants are the right size for the 3.0M, but too big for the 2.6M. I buy wheel pants from Hangar 9 and use 4" wheels. This looks a lot better and saves some weight. Hangar 9 has the wheel pants for about $15 and they come in a few different colors.

Jim

marksextra

My Feedback: (28)

Hammbone,

Do you think you could provide us a link to those pants? Otherwise, what size, where can we see colors? How much weight savings? Great idea.

Camss69, how about some pictures?

Hammbone

My Feedback: (309)

I don't have the link. They sell replacement wheel pants for their 33% planes. See which plane has the color you want and call Horizon and order wheel pants for that plane. I believe all of their 33% wheel pants are the same size/shape. They are painted a different color for different trim schemes on different planes. Call them and see.

Jim

Hammbone

My Feedback: (309)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HAN1161

Here are some white 33% wheel pants. They used to have blue ones for their Cap 232 and they had red ones for the Sukhoi or something. Not sure if they still have those colors or not. Not sure if they have yellow. The yellow might not match anyway. You can always paint the white ones if you wish.

Jim

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

I think the wheel pants are the same ones as on the 3.0 version.

The manual says to use 20mm standoffs but I can't seem to find 20mm except for the evolution motors, will those standoffs fit a 6mm bolt? I can't seem to find any documentation on them to see what size bolts they fit. I see 3/4" but those come up a little short but maybe I can use washers or something.

Hammbone

My Feedback: (309)

If you are talking about standoffs for the engine mounting, I'm really not a fan of standoffs. May I suggest getting some nice multiple ply plywood and using that to make a spacer the appropriate thickness. You will end up with a lot less vibration if you will not use standoffs.

Just my 2 cents

Jim

Scoubidou

My Feedback: (17)

For my stand off, i use red oak. Red oak do not compress while plywood do

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

Got the cowl mounted tonight, it fits really nice, I didn't have to trim anything, the recommended spacing is a bit off, they recommend 4 1/2" between bolts, but that leaves the bottom bolt on a place where the cowl isn't completely up against the fuse so the last bolt (the one on the bottom) I put at 2 3/4" from the previous bolt. I'm also going to try to find some flat headed (don't know what those are actually called) bolts for the cowl that are a little more flush, the stock ones stick out and bother me.

I picked up a bunch of washers tonight so I can mock up some standoffs until I find some 20mm ones that will fit, I guess I can try making some out of hardwood but I think the aluminum standoffs would be lighter.

I also picked up some 4.5" sullivan skylight wheels today from the LHS they are only 3.3 oz a piece so I think are going to be light enough. I'm running the stock axle setup, I didn't think the $22 Titanium axles are worth the weight savings for an ounce or two.

One thing I did get for this plane that is impressive in size is the smart-fly ignition regulator, if you haven't seen one they are REALLY small, they only weigh .3 oz and are maybe the size of a quarter!

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

I've started working on the stabs tonight, the stock amount of throw on them is pretty minimal. It says in the manual that you can enlarge the slots in the surface "almost to the skins" to get more throw. I took them to what I would consider "almost to the skins" and it still doesn't seem like I have enough "up" for 3D stuff. I've seen where others have actually gone partially into the skins, is that what everyone else does or am I missing something? Check the pics...

rcblimppro

You can take a round file and bring the slot back andout 50% into the wood. This will give you more but still maybe not enough. The next thing to do would be to look at where the slot makes contact with the hinge tab and file some material off there as well. Use the round file for this as well as sharp angles will create a stress point.

Shawn

Hammbone

My Feedback: (309)

What size spinner is needed for this plane?

I've got an extra BME 110 engine sitting around and a silver carbon fiber spinner that is 125mm (4-7/8") in diameter. I'm thinking of getting me one of these 2.6M Extra 260's.

Thanks, Jim

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

The manual says anything between 4.5 and 5".

Hammbone

My Feedback: (309)

Thanks for the reply.
Very tempting.

Jim

marksextra

My Feedback: (28)

What size extensions should i order? (elevators and wings) and what size swb servo arms in the wings should i order. 1.25 or 1.5"?

Anyone order theirs yet?

For that matter, how about a list of what your planning to put in this bird. engine, prop, wheels, servos, rudder tray,etc...

FLYEDGE

My Feedback: (14)

I have one coming on Thursday the 5th. I have the x-treme composite edge with DA-100 on AMT tuned pipes and turning 26X10 3 blade at 6700. 5955tg's all around. One on rudder and one each on ail. and Elv. I plan on DA-100 with the tuned pipes on this one as well. one 8711 on rudder and 5955tg's on ail. and elv. The SWB servo arms I used on my com-arf 330 were 1.5". 5" spinner and 4.5" wheels. I ordered the all white and plan on doing the Patty Wagstaff scheme. The plane is downtown and will be going there this week for lots of pics.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Get the 1-1/2" SWB arms. You can always go one hole in on them but the phenolics put you at a disadvantage unless you drill new holes in them. The 1-1/2" assurs you have the mechanical advantage where you want it.

The wood standoffs may be a much better choice due to the very minor weight gain alone. The lower vibration level is a bonus. In a plane that could tend to tail heavy that would be considerd "functional" weight. I believe you'll find the difference between aluminum and wood standoffs to be only a few grams if done right.

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

I went with 1.5" Air Wild servo arms, and then SWB arms for the rudder.

I'm going with 8611's on everything except rudder, and I have 2 8711's for that, I was going to try just one 8711 but I didn't want to build it that way and then decide later that it wasn't enough and have to install another servo later and then have to correct the balance again.

DA100 with compact muffs, smart-fly ign regulator (which is incredibly small) with a Fromeco relion 2600 batt. I'm using the Evolution 20mm engine standoffs (which should be here tomorrow)

2 Fromeco Relion 2600's with Fromeco super relia-switch/regs for the RX.

I plan on running the 9-channel spektrum RX with hopefully a spektrum module conversion for my 9303 if it's available by the time the build is complete.

No power expanders just 4 leads from the two regulators to the RX to handle the current draw to the RX.

I have 4.5" wheels, and plan on using a 5" spinner and probably no pilot unless No Limitz starts painting them again.

I went with the DA instead of the BME for two reasons, because I was concerned over the lighter weight of the BME and balance issues, (so i went with the HEAVY* DA ) and the impression that I get is that the BME is a little more sensative to cooling which I'm going for reliability, and ease of use. I still plan on installing the cooling baffles I just figure with the baffles I can't go wrong also why I'm using compact muffs instead of cans. KISS Now i could be completely wrong about the cooling thing, that is just the impression that I get from doing some reading so I don't want to state that as fact.

Most of my stuff just finally showed up this past weeks, everything is here except the spinner which I haven't ordered yet, so I hope to get a bunch of the build completed this week.

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

For servo extensions I ordered what Troy Built recommends on their website for the 2.6m extra's. I think I'm going to come up short, but it gave me enough to start with. I ordered the Troy Built house stuff, it seems pretty good quality. I haven't yet started installing servos so I'm not sure how the ones for the wings work out yet.

I'm also re-considering my use of the spektrum module since it sounds like XPS is getting close. Probably my final decision will end up on what's available at the time it's ready to go.

marksextra

My Feedback: (28)

Here's a couple pictures of my new white version. I painted my landing gear with Krylon.